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Show I , -: IjwHAT THE BEST DRESSED WOMEN ARE GOING TO WEArVJ ' S ; I M I RTlAR.15 FAS H.I ON .S IN COAT AND SKIRT COSTUMES! I W A fWTRIPED and Plain Woollen Materials for .New Autumn Street Models 1 "'' Gray and White Co B Photo Copyright, 1011, ly Rtutlinser B v Exclusive Copyright. 1011, Hl New YorL Herald Company H BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. THE cc U an I skirt cestui c ig al-wnys al-wnys the first consideration of tho spring and autiinln. .for evory , woman realize that if .she obtains 1 .' a perfect ccstuino dh Lais order M he can lool: well turned out for, almost H y any occu excepting some " forma! cn- M .tcrtninwent, or, of course, for the evun- H iaS- At this time of year when Aveddings. H and, as i. rule, count weddings, are ccle- Hl bratcd a smarts cont and fkirt is quite H appropriate to -wear, and it need not h; j on the elaborate order, such as will be seen M In the winter, corduroy, velvet or much B braided and trimmed cloth. B N Rough Materials Smart. Hl Rough materials of all kinds arc nmnrt Ht at present and v. ill be nil winter. Last H season one of the heat models 'was a bl-irk H' cheviot with hairline of white, made with Hf a chort jacket, the skirt without trimming, I: but with an overskirt, and the jacket with fncinge of white lanib'tf wool. Tlie model n wm not too popular, for it was made, only H by fno most expensive houses. This winter H wil1 appear again, and, while not this Hj year's style, bids fair to ho extremely pop- H ! i ular. The hairline of white and, in fact, H , all striped effects are most fashionable, HI , nndjinless they become too popular will 1 ' be smart all wiulw. They do not require H trimming. The cuffs, re ore and collars , oi white or black enn be of satin, cloth If-.' I k. . . , . .Dart Sine Mujlla Cost nine. or velvet, whichever U the mo3t beqom-'' beqom-'' 'ng:but apart from this the more -aev ere ' y Ihe costume the smarter it . i H v'Thcrcnrc::tcrrifyin(; runiors'heard'in the IpSSliWlfeSlf. U 4 Black and White Striped' S'SlflMWlM'' A Worsted Costume. ffilifMftl't'i -'' ' y? I'holo Copyright. 1011, by Reutlmpfr 53HlikT '' .i CcluaJvc Copirisht. 3011, iiSlatU, V We" Yori- Uerald Company world of dress In regard to the startling changes Fashion baa decreed, but the sensible woman pays little attention to Jheae rumors, knowing; full well that, although al-though Btrangc nnd weird styles will undoubtedly un-doubtedly be displayed, and worn too, there are plenty of charming, dainty and verj smart models to choose from that hau; nothing eccentric about them. The plainer the cheviot or serge gown the smarter it ia, and the moment any attempt is made to introduce elaboration of any kind that moment the whole charm of the costume is' lost. Just au for a riding habit severe lines and perfection of cut and fit arc demanded, to, with the serge or cheviot street toatumt. A bine serge without one particle of trimming will look infinitely better than if elaborately braided and trimmed. The newest models exhibited arc noz radically unlike the models of last spring. Xariow, blender effects are as popular ns ever-and straight lines aro .uWfrjjitory, but the skirts arc wido enough to allow of Liking a long step, and there are inverted in-verted pleats and panels, which permit of extra! fulness being Introduced in a most clcier way, for the skirts still look uarrow. ' The vulgarly tight sLirl is moat unfashionable, and (hi tailor ar dressmaker who turns nut, a skirt that looks too" tight is considered1 'not to know the business. The htnpcu .materials give a much more slender elTodt than the plaids, checks or figured designs, but the stniiglit lines can be. given by the seams. Everything in thcfce days depends upon tho cut of the iklrt, bift when the trick is once learned drcEmakjing is not so ditif-cult ditif-cult a tusk. f 7 The Hood Shaped Collar. Revcrs nnd collars must p cjrcfuIJy considered when decii.r.g.upon the autumn costume, for there 'is considerable difference differ-ence in th.s scaroa's s'o'Jes., Evpii the shortest jacket rejoices jhi j?, deep, wide collar and rev. re, while 0 hood shaped 1 tsSrfp White Serge Tailored Cosfurpo CiN " - Photo CopjriRht, 1011. by Rcutllrizor' r CT 'nxclusUc Coprlpht. 1011. New Vork ricrnld Corapciiyi J 1 : rr7i mm'. &W&? k-S10 3 ' r k i'i . Wiw w:- w E;- Slim' . ;' ic fes: ' Wll'' IS W- Blue Worsted CostumcTrimmed witbTStriped Silk. f ' ; r IMioio Cipyrlsht. 1911. by Rcutllnccr kivxclusi re Copyright. iyil,NwYorkIlcraJdConipniij " ' " ' collar is decided! new. On the light cheviot wh a much darker shade of blue a111terf.1l: the daik collar and reers .ire for the trimming Is aj-50 effective, thought fcinai'tet.t. On the dark colon A black nml white striped costume Is v'liite, , black or a coiitr.istlng color is most bccoojjqp 'with white rcers, collar ,cijoscii. a gray atrip.-d cheviot costume an( cuiis of white doth. These are 011 tho that is quite springlike in rons, but ot ma- old 'regulatjon linw. -the collar round at terml of Ipvicr grade (ban would he pos- the .hack, '.'tho rcers" pointed, the cuffs slblc for spring, has black satin roiers, col- mwljum .j jlb xhe' jacket button across lar and ..u(Th . u.tl. a cording of white w ,nar oncyer Is Idn-r than tho oUier. is.uin mat is effective? nnd nmte unumnl' or b'eems ao, wlieu' thtf cunt i rahtuuCu. I The same model in two tones of blue YVbirii thrown- open loth revcrs are tho - mmm ' ' ' 1 iWlt, '''.' few f PsM''i wis f S- fw-iw VI W?! - - - I V Black and White Costume'with Lapels of Satin - ' CT - Vs Photo Copjrishr, 1011. by Rcutlinscr ; " - ."IJxcluslc Copyright. 19L1. New York Herald Company" " ! i : sara This is a model that can be carried out i h blnck iTlvet or satin rcver? and j will look extremely smart, but 5p moie! geqeritly becomhtg with he white clotb, for there are few women whp look their 1 !. with nrch black near the face, j A black gown i3 almost invariably be-; coming if there is enough white in it, but the all black gown Is too trying to be so generally worn as it is. I Attractive Zibciine Costume. Distinctly odd is the round hood I shape collar lined with whife. A blnck camel's hnir or zibeliuje costume is 1 much in this sryl&nml is extremely biuait. tThe skirt 11 straight and liarrow. trimmed with small crochut burtons at each side of a panel m the back; there can also bo a panel m front if more, becoming. The jacket is loose and straight am! quite short. There are touches of white on the sleoves to match the lining of the hand, and many small buttons trim sleeves and back. The sharp contrast of white and black is effective- and. as a rule, becoming. becom-ing. The model is one of the newest. It is smart, but a word of warning uh:j;i be given that it would not be suitable for any woman who is inclined to lie stout lToa verge and camel's hair aic popular for tin autumn street gown, plain dark colors bwng the smartest. There are exquisite ton-s of purple .iul crimson, green, blue ami Idnck. TJie sin.irie-a gowns of these materials and colors arc simple 111 design and yet nro not on the too "evpie tailor made order. A charming model has a skirt with double -klit oflVel, the front breadth crowed phd the back in a ll.tt panel. The jjQkct has attached side pieces' edged with a narrow cording of velvet or satin. The revcrs are large and poiiitoil- and there i a square collar at the back face."d with white cloth or satin. On the sleeves arc iovs of small buttons from the elbow to the wrist. Buttons Placed Higher. All the coats are trimmed quite low. but lnghci than wag fashionable lat vnnn?. Four buttons more often than three are to be noticed. This is an advantage ad-vantage for wlntei coats, ac they are much warmer in conseqvenee, and also there is the adant:ige of their iiot pulling pull-ing apart', as often happens when the A ' , hmm : ' Kcru Lc and embroidery (Town. t J. , first button is just above the waist line v if theru is no inside iastentt"g.r A.tilo'r g .who is ,un expert in hie profession may. f I 'l' end sometimes does, so cut a coat that ! this most serious defect does not e.ist, 'but expert tailors, like blue roses, are not to be found everywhere, and often i 1 the effect of the most expensive of coit is jji! entirely ruined by this fault. In the y ;new cons buttoning higher up there is fj. less chance for this defect to be notice j". able.' Long Sleeves for Suits. Long slervc would seem to be the t ! accepted sfyle for this autumn's street r .covttmies, and most simple shapes Me- idium size, small rather than large, on ij 1 the coat sleeve order, they are becom- lug and sensible. They are put into the f coat so that they give the effect of Jt shorter shoulder scams than havo been . fashionable for some time, while the kimono slceic for this style of costume m is not among tho latest models. Again 1 ' j, 1 VI' I fBf jj WSfesQ, r k StrlpeJ SUV Cosruiue. h 7! - f Ij this is keeping to the plan of the more : b seveta tailor mado cft'ects, which have v alwajs been selected a.s the smartest for IB the first autumn street costume. Models $H! in velveteen or corduroy arc, on precisely f:IP the same lines as serge, and cheviot. 'iHj Later these materials will be made up ,'Ej' more elaboratelv for nfternoon -wear At 'M&. the moment they are not smart unles? "JEt absolutely severe in style. IS Short Skirt Still Worn. TO Evcrj- effort is being made for tho re- "ft? turu 'of the long skirt, not only for the JE? house, but for the street, and there are JlK many' long skirts of cloth and serge ex- lSt hibiltnl amqng the new models. The short tW skirt bus, hoAvever, too firm a bold upon Ww the u (lections of the more practical and flfe incidentally the best gowned women, nnd h the short skirted street costume will be 'l the Smartest for several seasons, it can Jwl safely bo predicted. This nutumn the 7C skirts are an exceptionally good length ; "-B they clear the grouud, but arc not exngger- y;R iitcdly short; in fact, the too short, just B us the too tight, skirt is considered ex- 'Sift trcmely bad form, and it must be the sruue 9E lengtb'all around The dip in front is per- 'H? nittcd only to the stout woman, to whom it -JM 6 more bLcoming. Altogether these latest Hji "nshions should proe immensely popular, 'fl :hcy arc so practical and smart and the JmM Ines can be adapted to each individual " 'H vearof, and while apparently there Is not B$ jrcat ,variety among tbcm, there Is a aut HB iciuiit variety to make each distinctive. 9H |