Show I I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 1 I 1 1 I 1 I I I-H- I F M IH H 3 I H I I I I I 1 H I 1 I 1 I 1 I Il I-H I 1 l I M-H M 1 I t 1 I I I M-I-H-H M I I I 1 I I H I I 1 I H- H J- J STR STRAW W CHALLENGES FELT CAPE ENSEMBLES OF TWEED I 1 I-I-H I I H H I H-H-I- M-H-H-M M 1 I I IM I'M I M I i E H I 1 1 I I I M-fr M a aT AT T LAST the millinery pendulum swings back to straw Strap Not that straws Straps v a I have van unshed felts p i the field but the are certainly presenting a chate chat chal challenge lenge e be filch promises ac at tl o competition It Is a refreshing s1 sight ht f I a A Athis this of seeing piquant littie lit lit- t dry l tie straws for spring after ww st so long a reign of felt j I Theres There's a thrill and newneSs newness new new- ness about strews too in that they ore are manipulated f L ae a artfully as soft felt That Is the multiple ways ways ways- w of twisting overlapping and achieving absurd ec eccentricities cr with felt which which millinery genius renders fascinating arc arr being re repeated sated in the new straw r renditions There Is every tort port of straw to be reckoned with this season special favor y being expressed for balli j bangkok pall pall- a 11 1 v J ce op lane straws crochet vistas and a n whole list of fancies which Include fine One straws and coarse the coarse the straw season Is s on I 1 IThe IThe The group pictured gives some Idea of ot the Intriguing and varied manipulation manipulation lation Inton of straw for miladys milady's Easter bonnet The cloche at nt the top Is Isn isa s sa a n very cry tine fine China Chinn bangkok trimmed with one of the new and very colorful embroidered straw and aud silk floss mo mo- mo- mo The clever hat to the left designs a afelt afelt afelt felt shape with an applied curiously cut overlap section of crochet visca the same piped with faille silk nail and handed banded with narrow belting helling ribbon A soft crochet hood Is worked Into an a attractive e irregular brim lar shape for forthe forthe forthe the hat centered In the group The spreading flowers are handmade of picot edged taffeta using velvet for forthe forthe forthe the centers and for a binding about the folded the off brim A cunning manipulation of or felt feat and straw produces the happy re Y k f r T rI bI t k r hi I IL 0 L a.- a. I CC I sit t rr t ti s raar i Ws Exquisitely Simple Woolen Ensemble suit In the hat shown to the right he helow low law the model ju just t described Tic The like leaf ornaments overlap o a n soft felt fel hood the brim repeating the fine sewed straw The last hat is distinctly a n 10 S 5 cr ver- blon of what's what In n small new straw shapes If It Is of tweed tw-eed and has hus a cape It Interprets smart mode whether It IJ bf be u short jacket ensemble as ns pictured or a separate topcoat Just such exquisitely sImple t woolen ensembles as us this Chanel model ur are arc the classy thing for spring The rhe creator of nf this distinctive e ensemble adopts the r favored ur l ll cape cUIe theme giving g It n II unique Interpretation in that the tile c cape pe tops lOllS n a short Jacket rather than the usual length full topcoat The rhe I Varied Manipulation of Straw skirt Is styled with two Inverted box plaits which are ure stitched down v us so many of the skirt are The he hou blouse worn with this tweed Jacket and skirt Is of ot Jersey matching the pale beige beige- of the cloth Unusual things are being done with soft woolens this season especially with tweeds and loose loore weaves such as basket cloth For Instance designers are employing ing the selvedge edge in a trimming way Pockets cuffs and revers reverS' are finished Unshed with their own selvedge edge rather than with bindings bindings bind bind- ings facings and hems Self-fringe Self trimming also smartens the newer ensembles That Is the cloth Is s frayed ed at the edges to about a half inch depth Drawn work too Is artfully employed for soft woolens One can readily sense the charm of ot an on ensemble styled of an nn open-mesh open woolen In n beige or pale gray or some pastel tint the fame came finished hed In self self- fringe or made mude lacy with much ii dr iii While beige helge and gray bray and the new rebe grege tones are extremely popular there arc nrc scores of navy s suits sails and en ensembles ensembles too on the spring program These are lire often of wool Weal crepe crele In n all alii once with polka dot dol print or perhaps with a blouse of puppy poppy red rell crepe matched to the lining of or the coat cont or cape as us the case may he be Many 1 of the newest ensembles ell flaunt length full capes A As the tile cape gape theme unfolds It presents runny many variations A feature to give hive versatility to 10 the cape Is the hemline which Is often irregular Ir Ir- regular and us erratic us liS that flint of ot the skirt hem JULIA BOTTOMLEY Q 1928 1923 Wet tern Newspaper IJ Union IOD f |