Show KASHMIR VALE FULL OF CHARM Sri Is a lovely place for a vacation prepares prepared by national geographic society wash agton D C service S WARM weather approaches AS A the vale of kashmir one of the famous garden spots of the world bet beckons kons to the vaca tion zionists s s 0 of in ind a its s woo wooded e hillsides don on a new green which Is reflected in the clear blue placid streams ot of the valley and houseboats are put in or der for a busy season the vale of r lies among t the lower himalayas north of the indian punjab one reaches Sri the summer capital of the native state known as the domain of the maharaja of jambu and kashmir over a long route by rail and motor prom from bom bay ay one travels northward by train via delhi and lahore to one of the chief army posts of british india there the way to beauty opens almost at once on leaving Ra walpin dl ill the motor road be to climb up and up through the deodar clad slopes of the lower mountain the road twists and turns the heated air of the plains grows cool and invigorating until when travelers make their first over night stop at tret they feel captivated by a joyous holiday spirit everything seems amusing and in te resting ruffled bunkas swing from the ceiling though you may have no need of them your deft and tur bained servants patter barefooted about the rooms unrolling your bed ding on the stringed charp the fairly comfortable beds of india even the not too bad food served by the bungalow cook la Is a matter for hungry jest lovely lovely world with a summer of kashmir ahead native chauffeurs are speedy the road from to arina gar is a well built motor road some miles long and it lies through the mountains north of the pir pass snowy peaks peals rise high above you the rushing waters of icy ley streams chatter noisily below hair pin turns in the road make you catch your you r breath and curl your toes for the ways of the native driver are his own and without fear and alas you have not the knowledge of his language wherewith to express your feelings soon from the first traveling sahib you may learn to say adista adista I 1 but you never succeed in malting an indian chauffeur drive slowly slowly it Is possible to make the trip to Sri in a day but not adista I 1 quite the contrary you spend two night in dak bungalows rest houses along the way the second at Bar amula which lies at the edge of the great de known as the vale of kash mir from Bar amula one can go the rest of the way by boat up the river but you may prefer to drive the last 39 35 miles lie across a level stretch the road bordered on either syle silde by slender poplars the people passed along the way are quite different from those one sees in india elkas and the two wheeled horse drawn vehicles of the country draw aside to let you pass the vale of kashmir Is a level val ley about 80 miles long and averaging about 20 miles in width it lies iles a great oval surrounded by mountains green with deodar and spruce on the lower loer reaches and wl ite with snow until well into the early summer skies of an infred ble blue complete a color scheme of fairy loveliness through out the valley winds the curving line of the river along the banks of wh ch eh straggle the streets and bazaars which form the ancient city of Sri qua nt scenes in Sri seven curious bridges span the river and along the shore quaint old wooden houses lean sometimes at a rakish angle many of the city streets end in wide stone steps leading down to the rivers river s edge these stairways are usually animated scenes of native life here the laundry men wash the clothes here the women come to fill their water jars children tumble and play about and boits and cows ram ble freely among them all from the overhanging balconies lengths of dyed hang out to dry all is colorful and gay also there Is the interesting river life A large part of the population of Sri lives afloat odd long pointed boats called bungas with superstructures hung with mats of woven reeds are the only homes which thousands of kasimiris Kash miris ever know sleeping quarters within a kitchen of sorts open to the eyes of all a few pots of brass or copper and a poor Kash kashmir miris s household Is complete the native of more ample means has a better boat walls of wood re place the woven mass and as bet better er and better financial status is ed so the boats improve the best are comfortable and well furnished house boats such as one might see upon the river thames the eng english ish have made their con in in the development of the house boat in Sri for the vale of kashmir has become becom e not only a fa evorite vacation land for the english army in india but the permanent home of many retired officers and their families servants all are men one lives easily in h kashmir A host of servants cost about as much as one good cook tn in the west and they hey feed themselves each one has his appointed duties and does them fairly well am your servants in kashmir are men the women seldom work out even the little children of westerners frequently have men servants to care for them your list may include a mangi or head boatman a gar chief house servant assistant a water carrier sweeper of lowest caste and doer of menial jobs a khan saman cook a a sewing man rian a mall gardener and three little cho keras the small boys who paddle the shikara a small gondola like boat in which you go everywhere you desire it seems an ample list I 1 it you take a e guests for tea to shall mar gardens the houseman goes along and serves a perfect meal under the spreading chanar trees when you plan a morning in the bazaars the houseman follows follo ws respectfully behind your guide your days are carpeted with eabe and your home Is a joy thanks to tl e willing service of an able houseman where but in kashmir could one call back to a houseman as one Is 1 leaving home for all day we will have guests for dinner tonight at nine 0 clock and return to find every thing in perfect order fresh flowers everywhere the table set in holiday attire and a course dinner perfectly planned many of the ls are fine look ing the women especially having beau ticul eyes and quite regular features like other native states of the indian empire kashmir has an english rest dent or advisory official and through him more sanitary ways of living are gradually being introduced into the country there Is an excellent mis slon hospital and a zenana hospital as the name implies for women and a school conducted by an english clergy man Is doing wonders among the youth of the country foreigners like kashmir the foreign element in Sri in creases yearly from the terrible heat of the punjab come english army peo X 19 14 1 9 men Needle workers rs of kashmir pie seeking the cool air and health of ol the hills and these bring with them the influence of english manners and customs and better still of english fair play there Is not in all arina gar a merchant who does not rely whole heartedly on the honor of the english sahib shopping Is a quaint pastime in this city of the sun As one strolls along the bund eager merchants press their wares mohamad jhan assures you that not in all Sri no not even at all jhan s his rival can you pro cure such embroideries such fine lna such beautiful designs will not the lady sahib but see or as the small shikara of a h mer chant Is rowed alongside your boat deftly timed to find you at home he eagerly spreads his wares he Is in sistena that you see his treasures only looking lady sahib not buy ing only looking the foxy merchant well knows his goods are tempting he Is sure that some time you will buy the native industries of kashmir alas have cheapened and some have almost d ded ed out entirely no longer for instance can one procure the very finest shawls such as made the name of kashmir famed throughout the world one can get good shawls soft and fine but the exquisite old time shawls are hardly to be found outside of museums lna Is one of the loveliest products of the land it Is a soft cream colored woolen cloth made from the fine under hair of the tibetan goat the finer weaves are incredibly soft and the shawl maker hopeful for your order will show you how a length of it can be drawn through a finger ring A much heavier woolen cloth some thing akin to scottish homespun 1 Is called and the better weaves make splendid outing clothes |