Show jr na aaris in 9 doom ju ve old nd G 0 W ris now new york there are arc quite enough changes in the new clothes arriving from paris to ninko make every woman blakc 0 her aiena in n despair noil that she feho must have a now new gown whether or not her dross dress allowance lean bo be stretched to cover it there are m women omen who told hold out that the gowns of autumn can bo be renovated to meet the ilio demands of spring and id the forehanded person has already been at work la in tile tho sewing room having lier skirts reshaped and her boil bod lees ices built up or down to meet the requirements quire ments of tho the hour the dressmakers tire are divided into two classes of opinion those who tire are worried over tho the seeming similarity between ean the spring gowns go ns und those of last autumn and others who are arc blowing tho the trumpet loudly to proclaim that the modern modem silhouette cotti compola comp cla every woman to discard whatever she las has a and 1 kid buy things that ore are new paris tins lias spoken however and no bacr how intense our patriotism wo we listen and hearken to the words that come front from the city by tho the SL seine ine that Is the phrase ono one hears on every sido among the wo we know what wo we should wear the gowns have been shown our buyers aal as ninny many as possible have been shipped to this country wo we way may talk nil all we please about our own ov a fashions following our own flag but bilt nil all fashions become ourn oura after they have had their la in paris la in a limited district of the city the drastic changes A mere cursory glimpse at a foroe gathering of french gowns may convince the casual onlooker that hat nothing la Is to bo be feared from the new styles old gowns will do old suits will serve old wraps are not thrown la in the I 1 1 g N I 1 I 1 X N N 1 xz annas NS 0 ma gg n k t nt N f this gown of dark blue shows the type of barrel skirt which the americans americana have accepted its trimming consists of rows of fla flahiue hine stitching with gray silk thread and aft neck la Is filled in with a tiny vest of gray tulle shadow find last summers lint hat e cm be revived to meet this springs nee need d that Is the opinion of a most casual 1 observer I ge r V er tho the truth Is that the changes anre moro more drastic thaia even the reporters rind and prophets felt they would be parts tins has been insidious in introducing it a silhouette that will grow ns as the flays daa lengthen and that will soon make tho the gowns of yesterday look too old fashioned for oven even trivial uses unless they are altered by a skillful hand what hat Is known ns its tho the american uniform was as conspicuously lucking during tile the first openings in parts but mme ame and drecoll camo came A t with tailored suits that thai met inet the expectations of the american buyers the ones were particularly rood good but no ono one S tyle style was emphasized sime mine has always liked the three quarter coat and she was w la tho the first person to revive it a feix few years 3 ears ngo ago it was then regarded us as too old fashioned tor for any american woman to take up and yet a year after it was waa universal in this country the knee length jackets jacket that tile house of showed have the barrel effect between the waist and kuco mad and tire worn over an exceedingly narrow skirt that Is from fruitt two to four inches longer than what tho the women lieve iivo worn ov r hero here for two also revives the with a narrow bein and slender blender line but tho the barrel effect Is givert given in the middle tills this house also insists upon tile short coot coat it Is made somewhat like an old fashioned basque with a short peplum that clingi to tile tho body although it Is cut circular introduced a coat like tills this lust last which was excessively liked by tile the erwien aci len who had turned away front from the long coit coat and it liro hablo its revival for this spring it will gain headway before june like jenny and uses tile the wide loose girdle ua till nil sho she does not touch tho the empire waistline which nearly all tile other houses abow in two to or three of 0 tits the best gowns gons of their collections and site she ilois does not go eo in for tho the medieval girdle which lins tits not licen been relinquished by nery every other designer but added to the belt over tho the harmid waistline coats coata the house ot of Ilon Royd nt rit Ns which bleh la Is not us well known knon to the alio public its it should be but well all known to our buyers to havo the fash fashions lons brought to this country every few months lins las sent out nn an exceptionally good looking cont coat to m atell pt each I 1 c I 1 01 one le piece frock it la Is it 11 diversion froni from tile winter top chilt which otten often turned out ot to bo be a troublesome problem althour although it as a garment it la Is well nigh indispensable this new cont coat is like a cape that has tits little fullness full tind and hangs against the body it Is slashed blushed nt lit eich each ald from the honi hein up tomboy tho the knees andt UA alio sleeves alece sl ece nie are boole all bim bell shaped the only trimming rimming used no matter what tile tho color of tile tho cont coat li Is a pointed dyslin dt slin of machine stitching this statchil stitching chil ig is by no means commonplace it Is easily dono done in america but it Js Is very expensive pens pensive lyd it Is a I 1 booso a 0 so c lini ns titell t lint must be perfectly done in order to carry out the sharp ii 1 ler outlines of the design beige string color and dark blue are used foil for lipse coats and the material Is a sort of soft broadcloth the machine Is in hn black has made a great arnt same name in europe for one piece froes or sport suits which can bo be worn on tho the street with diga dignity ltv tho ciflie best gown sent over from tills this house Is lucli a decided contrast to everything wp 1 leave a ve been wearing earing that it was wasen gerly accepted by the americans who saw it I 1 the skirt Is exceed exceedingly inglis 1 arro Is laid in machine mae lilno knife plaits and huings hangs hi n plumb line from twinkles to tw the bellboy jack jackstis etis itt 11 a straight line front from cut on on altra re in e nf N order to make one look youthful fand its I 1 covered with this machine chalo v white the small and autto long finished fl n shed alth lilt a narrow band of sat satin n that flares flare avci tho land hand and a row itom of toos that keeps it at t alst from the bottom ot of the jacket conics it a basil that goes straight I 1 tho figure at the lips and Is looped over into two ends end s at the back driscol and the e angote jenny Is not tho only on dev aft s signer la in darls who put out the redingote tor for the spring iler her housa ha never ner relinquished tho the redingote idea but has hag upon the onu theme III hi different ways J t s papuan and driscoll coraee anek to tho the actual redingote in the form of a slim coat with a slight cu below file he hips to show that tile tho oval sit as 9 french ll 11 call it la Is up awed driscoll has always had a high reputation for coat buus af adfor wha teye iohd lie he makes tile the straight glit redingote kokh which opens lafront ln front over ncr a narrow skirt of satin or crepe cren e de chine as opposed to the worsted fabric of the coat ile ho also combines fogila foulard id 1 and serge and crepe and serge the iho house of 0 Dr droscoll iscIl Is one of the few that makes afternoon gowns with full skirts it Is truo true that this fullness Is not displayed as ai much til nt tile item hem as it was lost last autumn but there Is 19 not tile straight pull do down wn line that the lie buyers feel Is entirely now and will bo be accepted copyright 2917 b mcclure per syndicate |