Show BAR ALL GAY en COLORS ORS FRENCH LEADERS OF FASHION DECLARE FOR somberness t world la Is likely to fall into line tones tone of all the new spring shades show subdued effect some soma early hints that pars paris will present r y of its models in black Is well und il though for the american openings thero there will be the colors that tie no city in europe considers today also it Is established that the garish combinations to which paris has been during the last three years have vanished for a time at least because these colors are the he children of a reckless and slightly decadent era as every student of dress history knows knowe and the world la is sad serious and virile today thero there Is no doubt that the entire world will follow the lead of franco france j and garb itself in demure colors it not in black the tones of all the new spring shades show allow this subdued effect and one feels respectfully I 1 toward rd tile fashion knowing the lie heartache in which it was born I 1 ulues pinks yellows are quiet in fit sha shading i g grays have leaped to the front and the tones of red used are so obviously inspired by the uniforms of those at the hie front that they too have a sinister and sober significance dlack black will even prevail in fit ten tea gowns which are usually brilliant A smart tea gown that has bus been sent over as a sketch Is in black a satin a till an ail innovation as aa everyone inest admit it la Is cut on oil dignified nied medieval levai lines with a piece of itself shaped in front from tho the back bach to bo be adjusted in the front us a girdle caught by a great diamond of cut jot jet which drops strands like tears toward tile tho floor there Is a caps cape of black chantilly chant llly lace flowing freely over the back and shoulders deis forming sleeves in keeping both tho the puffed sleeves that were tentatively shown in the early winter evidently there la is to be a radical change in fit evening sleeves vo eo it Is wase to be fire pared for it it does docs not loine coine about through a revolt against tho the sleeveless bodice but Is due to a progression of ideas along the same epo epochal clial line another sketch sent over shows it a Polon polonaise alse of orange colored velvet opening over tho iho skirt made from two silver lace ruffles at or rather above the waist line there Is an ail immense butterfly worked in rhinestones and jet the decol letago Is V slumped and wis Is li part pait of the orange velvet polon polonaise also ind it too has a deep flounce flo inice to serve is a sleeve on one 1 of tho the best houses sends send 11 a sketch ciket li tor for a new coat sult suit which has 1 I r small blue velet hat two wo distinguishing fen features tires the skirt 8 not lot wide and the coat coal Is laced down lie ho side from shoulder to well below the lie waist line with a heavy aleavy gold cord rhe suit is of green cloth such as the belgian officers wear the llie eyelets ire ro conspicuously targe large and bound A ith green velvet tho the long small cleeves have flaring cuffs and above aboe hese hebe they tire laced with tile the gold ord that drops in small at tile the lack ack there Is a full peplum attached |