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Show FASCINATING SPRING MODES Boleros and Short Skirts Combine in i Juanty Costumes. Turkish Ig Trouser Skirts I Now York, March 5. With the I first breath of spring weather, cos- I tunics begin to tako on spring like I colorings. Hats In gayer colors or I trimmed with bright flowers and I feathers announco to tlio world that I spring has returned, oven whon the I suit or dross remains of ttio somber I colors of winter. I Covort cloth has been tho novelty I in winter suits and Is very popular In tho spring, for It Is light in color I and combines with many things, A I new cloth called buckskin covert Is tho nowost of this tyto. I A few days ago I received an- nouncement cards from a Fifth Av-I Av-I enuo dressmaking establishment, of I a private vlow of their nowest mod' H els. From tho genoial salesrooms I H was guided into a gray and gold ele- I M$ HBator and from thoro to an artistic NRroom also In gray and whlto and Hgold. Tho simplest of small stage3 Hotcupled ono sldo of tho room. A pHfew chairs wero placed carelessly IHaround tho room and wo mado our-PHtiulves our-PHtiulves comfortable for tho roviow. H Boleros wero tho most striking fea-Hlturcs fea-Hlturcs shown. Short llttlo bobby, PH sleevelCBs Jackets, somo cut square PHand straight around, others scalloped PBor slashed. Theso wero worn over pHl full blouses which blouscd a trlflo HJ over tho bolt or glrdlo Instead of bo-HJ bo-HJ Ing pulled straight down. Most of PPJ these wero long sleovcd, whllo others jHj had tho boll alcoves, throequarter or HJ half length, wide and unbound at tho H lowor edge H Tho skirts woro full and short, most PPJ of thorn being built on peasant lines, jlH with full apron llko ovorsklrts front M nml-back, dividod on tho sides and HJ showing a plain or ruffled undorsklrt fl beneath. PPJ Another notlceablo feature In PH thoso drosses wna tho fact that they PH wero all mado with a normal waist-M waist-M lino, an Interesting fact when ono H thinks of all tho long wnlsted and pH Empire linos which nro shown as B fororunnors of spring and summer H fashions It Is a fact that tho frocks PH mado on omplro lines tiro decidedly H for tho girlish flguro whllo tho H round wutsted frocks suit all stylos m of flguro moro or less. & Anothor typo of costumo shown PJ hero was takon from tho 15th Con- B. tury French costumos, Tho waist WM waB In doublot uroct, slashed several I tlmos front and back through which M tho creamy whlto chiffon blouse poop H oil A short pleated poplum finished H tho lowor odgo of tho watBt. This wna worn ovor a full skirt with a Pleated rufflo on tho bottom. An !E interesting thing to romombor Is that P theso pleated ruffles which nro usod on tho bottom of so many skirts nro I nrosBOd flat and out on tho lowor I odgo without n heading of any kind. I In thoEO dresses tho long tunlo was shown In many dlffcront styles. I Sometimes with a pleated lowor skirt ' Bbowlng Just bolnw, and ngaln with ,'". a underskirt of filmy laco. IwL Ono of thoso frocks I will describe xHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHiHhI In detail. The skirt had n long bluo tunic striped with a thread of yellow yel-low and crossed with n satin stripo. This was slashed up about eight Inches In-ches and faced upon tho upper sldo with plain bluo. Tho pleated under skirt of plain bluo Just peeped out from beneuth tho tunlo. A short bolero Jacket also slashed slash-ed and bound with plain bluo is worn over a whito chiffon blouso with a narrow pleat down tho centor having a narrow frill on either sldo. TIw long sleeves had deop flaring, surfs of tho striped silk with a frill of tho chiffon nround Its edgo. Tho collar of tho blouso was very high with a frill of chiffon abovo and bolow. Another llttlo dress which sported sport-ed a short bolero Jacket and chiifon blouso having deep boll sleeves of tho chiffon, had a skirt which showed show-ed a new evolution of tho tunic Bklrt. Tho skirt was of bluo chiffon taffeta with two box plcaMngs around tho bottom. Tho skirt was the full length in tho back, but the front was tho depth of tho two box pleated frills of white chiffon. The effect was stunning. Contrast is a strong nots In tho color combinations of tho Bcastm. Many dark Jackets wero shown wli'i whlto or light colored skirt. Wide leather belts wero used on Dome of tho dresses. Ono white sorgo dress hnd a red patent leather bolt which was ory effestlvo Indued. A whlto chiffon aftornoon dress showed tho raglan slcove'J with bui-pllco bui-pllco fronts of filet laca and n looso panel of the filet laco in tho hack. Tho unusual skirt was made of chiffon chif-fon with three graduated bands of shirred silk applied. Each bawl was shirred upon a cord top and bottom which gave the band a vary pretty flnlBh. A modo which Is having nuito a voguo and Is both graceful nuJ effect" lve has been Inspired by the 'Uirkish trousers. This dress, however, Is not a trouser skirt, far bo It I Thoro Is a foundation skirt mado shorter than tho outside skirt and tho lowor edgo of tho outside skirt Is gathered and caught to tho lower edgo of tho undorsklrt and tho skirt itself Is bloused, If that term can bo used, all around tho bottom. Tho dress which I saw having a skirt llko this had a vory wldo belt with largo round disks or moons embroidered on it In red and silver and gold. , A coat and a dress showing tho long and tho short walsted effects aro shown In tho illustrations. Tho coat In diagonal bluo Rorgo, with full skirt and bolt with potkets upon each sldo is a Into and practical model mod-el for tho Bprlng coat. In tho illustration illus-tration tho coat Is worn with a sand colored skirt. In plain and molro taffeta Is tho dross illustrated mado In tho latest baaquo offect. Tho bodlco Is given tho long walsted appcaranco by a panol front which Is cut In ono with a wldo crushed glrdlo. This fits around tho waist and hips rather closely combining very well with tho full flaring skirt. On many of theso dresses where a llttlo color Is needed to glvo the "prop" cr noto for contrast a corsago bouquet bou-quet was used. Thero aro many different dif-ferent kinds of thoso flowers, thoso mado from velvet or Bilk or chiffon and thoso mado of ribbon. Tho nowest now-est ones Bhow a pltot edging and are often made of plcot edged ribbon. Tho trimming on somo of tho early spring hats Is vory simple, often bo ing but a strip of narrow ribbon, usually us-ually grosgrnln, with a strand of beads, In dull whlto, blue or other dull color which will form a pleasing pleas-ing contrast placed Just nbovo it. Now handkerchiefs aro showing narrow colored frills around their edgo of pink or blue or violet. Tho vory sheerest of linen Is used for thoso handkerchiefs and tho result Is kuffy and dainty. |