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Show I THE IMPORTANCE I : OF THE TOP COAT B , For Dress It Is Developed In Velours de B '; Laine and Velvet, For Sports In Leath- B J er, Tweed, and Novelty Fabrics. Fur Ij, a Favored Trimming H is? 'ut ' f ;(' ' Now York. Sept. IS Early In the H I ' season w hen Paris pUc her Jtatup ' H f 4 of approval on the truck ot taffeta. 1 V mi J then n little Uter adopted the, Hh one piece (rock of sr? and pabnr V,;l (line, on Princes ami sowl Princess , bBj lines, for almost every occasion, n HlM demand was straightway created for H tho scpitrato coat. Designers arc now Pl giving much of their attention to this HH ' important garment. Mftltt A Season of Separate Coats KMj I It Is essentially a season of scpn- B '( rato coats. At ony puhllo gathering B ! I tho predominance of tho 0110 pleeo B a ' dross with Its accompanying co.xt is B 'j vory noticeable. Princess and semi- B Princess frocks of sorgo or gnbnr- B J dine, brnld trimmed, and rather bo- B i( verc, nro preferred for mornings; to B t wear with theso frocks Paris has glv- B en us an all enveloping coat, also ot B , scrgo or gabardine, called the coat v rO Xt yy K H ( s J&8TT H r C ' - B : " H A Great Coat In Raglan Style dres. Then there nro many of.ier models on the Kcdlngoto order, with rotors extending from collar to hem! one or two designs showing the Louis XVth Influence and tho 1870 period, with slender, fitted backs nnd waists, and full circular, flaring basques. bas-ques. Frocks of taffeta and fnlllo nro accompanied ac-companied by harmonizing coats of velours do Initio, velvet, or plush, cut Iledlngoto fashion, or on short, tight lilting lines. Volvct Is one of tho smartest coat materials ot tho season. sea-son. On tho Avonuo and In the tea rooms cvory afternoon, ono may boo any number of smart llttlo frocks of taffeta or fnlllo, with short, full sKirts and harmonizing small coats, or basques bas-ques of velvet or plush. Somo of these chic velvet basques, fitting snugly over tho bust, curving nt tho wnlstllne, button from tho top of tho high choker collnr to tho pointed lower low-er edge, often forming pannier Hko draperies over tho hlp3. There is no material richer or moro becoming than velvet. The Russian Influence In tho moro dressy coats, ono notices no-tices n decided leaning townrd the Itusslan. There Is something smart) and youthful about tho double breast-1 t'd, high collared Russian coat, wltfi Its trimming of fur which makes It appeal to many. Theso models nro mado In various lengths, according to tho purposo tor which they nro Intended. Ono of tho smartest coats of tho season was developed In Pet-rograd Pet-rograd green velours do lolno, on Russian lines, collnred, cuffed nnd banded around tho lower edgo with beaver. Largo crocheted buttons ot nntiquo gold cord closed tho cont and finished tho wldo girdle ot green velours. ve-lours. A smart llttlo turban of tho beaver completed a most attractive ensemble. The Collar Makes the Coat It appears as If all tho designers Ingenuity has been centered on tho collar of tho cont. Thcro nro wldo capo collars, Chin Chin collars, Quak- or collars, wldo crush collars, 'A collars, collars dating from tno tlmo of Incroyables, high DIrcctoIro col lars, and mnny others. Often theso nro of fur, ono of tho shou haired pelts, proferably, beaver, nutrln, seal or krlmmcr; nnd then again thoy nro of tho mntorlal of tho coat, elaborately elab-orately trimmed with brnld embroidery, embroid-ery, or n smartly worked out design de-sign In Angora wool. This latter Is n vory now nnd cffectlvo touch brought out nt the early Paris openings. open-ings. Cuffs, too, como In for their sharo of attention. Somo flnro, somo aro mado gauntlet fashion, somo nro cut to fit tho forearm snugly from elbow el-bow to wrist, whoro thoy flnro slightly, slight-ly, and others are merely straight bands of tho samo or a contrasting mnterinl. Slcovos on both conts and frocks nro varied most attractively, tho mod-o's mod-o's being taken from n number ot different clothes periods. Coats for Sports Pnquln Introduced nt her recent showing a cont of suede; nt n tennis mntch somo weeks ago, n duplicate of this same coat was worn, 'with matching spats, hat band, nnd glrdlo of tho suodo. It Is nn unusual fad, but ono that Is practical for motoring motor-ing and nil out of doors nmuaomonts. I Stripes, checks, nnd rather vivid -- plaids, aro popular for tho sport coat as well as tho various attrnctlvo tweed mixtures. Ono smart motor cont of plaid, In n subdued tono of grny, notou nt tho tennis games, was trlmmoQ with emerald green sucdo, collar, wide belt nnd cuffs. Tho effect ef-fect was unusual and extremely cffectlvo. cffec-tlvo. Lontiier Is a trimming detail of many conts this fall. Tho lingo motor coat of warmly colored plaid, heavy curly cloth, rough tweed, and various other warm lightweight fabrics, is often collared, cuffed, and belted In suedo or kid, In a plain, contrasting color. Leather buttons, too, nro being used, and seam pipings ot leather. The Belted Norfolk For tho girl who golfs, walks and enjoys tho great out of doors, no cont Is moro satisfactory thnn tho Norfolk. It lends Itself well to almost al-most any mntorlal. In tweed It is smart and substantial looking; in stripes, plaids, nnd novelty mixtures, It Is equally becoming and effective; JlcCiu. , ? Two Adaptations of the Favored Nni-fnlls whllo In plain, hard finish serge It Is trim nnd tailored looking, n good model for tho business girl. It Is youthful nnd suited to many types. No coat model Is moro satisfactory for tho woman or girl who makes her own clothes ns It is comparatively easy to fashion. A Word on Fur Fabrics Whllo theso fabrics havo been used for coats and wraps for n season or two, thoy havo never reached tho porfoctlon Miat thoy havo this win ter. At n showing of coats and wrnpi at tho IliU, a short tlmo ago these fur cloths woro used exclusively. Thoro woro baby lamb cloths, caracul cara-cul cloths, monkey skin, nnd any number of others bcnrlng tho mnnu-facturors mnnu-facturors trade namos. Theso materials mate-rials nro especially well suited to evening wraps nnd tho moro dressy day conts Thoy nro warm, light of we'aht, richly colored, nnd generally satisfactory Theso fabrics aro attractive, too, for trimmings, collars, cuffs nnd trim-. miug bands, on coals of oUicr materl. nls. An African brown baby Iamb cloth Is especially beautiful for tho last mentioned use. m - |