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Show Si in Directorie Mode l . For Spring Togs Iw Thero la to be a new modo In tlio BJ Hiring and it Is to follow the Dlroc- BJ tolio with faithfulness, asserts u prom- HI? tecnt fashion correspondent. "ow, ot Hr course, the great question Is: What IB la the Dtrcctolro? Vm Small profit lies In going Into the HB history of tho thing. It bridged tho IB fai between tho French Revolution k and tho Empire styles. Cut that Is Bjj neither hero nor thero when It comes Bjj to the practical point of modern dress- Bj' Ing being dono In tho Dlrcctolre fash- I I ix-Wmx I Af " J I bV v .- Bk bb. v . y I btJV' XV B BYJ & '- BBH BBBB9 fci v 1 feT Hi, Dlrectolre Evening Qown of Yellow BJi Crepe and Pearls. Bj Ion. Tho feverish points of consldcrn- J tlon nro: First, Is the thing practl- J call Second, Is It suited to tho ox- BJ prcsslon of our modern tlmoT Well, J the verdict of doslgucrs la tlmt It Is BJ both of theso things, so we enn pro- BJ cced to a further business of under- Bf standing without any undue worry. BJ It seems that tho American women BJ ' foci n strong need of something that BJ U different and n distinct clmngo from BJ what they Imvo been wearing, at least BJ so tho designers say. Tlioy report BJ that the women eomo to them with dls- BJ satisfied looks and wrinkled brows do- BJ wandlng to know what Is "now" In tho BJ present styles. Then they vnllnntly BJ bring forth their newest conceptions In BJ tho way of tho straight one-piece BJ dresses that wo Imvo been wearing for BJ so long end nro met with peevish BJ frowns and dissatisfied glances. BJ "Thero'e nothing now about those," BJ thoy complnln. And It Is tho truth Bj there Is nothing new. Hut. then, wo Bj havo had the war nnd tho nftcr effects Bj of that great struggle, and wo llnve BJ had Purls sending us gowns along tho Bj samo old lines and nftor tho Bnino sue- Bj, cossful Ideas, so what chnnco havo wo Bj r had to obtain anything distinctly Bj new) Hi Hut now tho foremost American rte- ' signers have tnken a stnnd nnd thoy Bj announce that thoy will mako up and HJI promote gowns In tho dlrectolro man HI ner for spring wear. In fact, they are Bjl doing bo now, and Illustrations only go BJI A, street frock nmdo from gray twill Bjfr Is somothlng In tho manner of a coat BJK dresH with all ot tho elements of tho Hj' dlrectolro applied to Its construction. Bj' " un ?cry tight nttlng, long sleeves, BJi os most of theso dlrectolro creations H& have' Tncn u nns n w,d0' Pointed Bjp, neck line arrived nt when ouo side of B h coat overdress laps over tho other elde. Thero It Joins at ono point bo-B bo-B - low tho pointed line nnd falls away B from the short waist lino Into tho skirt portion. Now, by way ot trim-H- xnlng, this overdress In bound with pale orango silk and Is lined with tho samo H thing, so that tho lining reveals Itself B- now nnd ugaln. This gown Is qui to . etartllngly new In nppenrnpco and t most fascinating In tho way It Is done. MV, It r '1 bo the means of converting my' lUt, 4 'udced mind to tho ndapt-H ndapt-H , flbl) i 'llrectnlrc. H' , of Black Taffeta. t Que spring coats that Imvo ; been sv 'u the dlrectolro mode Is mad te tnf'otti. It Is Just p ii succca. , tiny hluck tafTetn H ' Hounse rtaujiing from the hem to tho throat, with n collur that stunds high ' I to show how successful they nro and how truly fnsclnntlng tho dresses nro. Will Content to Moderate Changes. Perhaps tho American woman has reached the point where sho will not be dictated to, to the extent of changing all of the stylo of her garments every sontion, but sho will consent to moderate moder-ate changes If thoy do not follow each other In such quick and uninterrupted succession. Now, tho authorities seem to agree, sho Is ready for n change of eomo sort. She has tired of tho unremitting unre-mitting snmeness of tho gowns thnt havo been, nnd It Is believed sho will welcome a comploto change for the spring season. So hero Is tho meaning mean-ing of the Dlrectolro In Its newest Interpretation, In-terpretation, for It cannot bo entirely truo to Its old-tlmo Ideals. It must conform with now demands nnd now situations. Ono suit shown Is nn Interesting dlrectolro dl-rectolro adaptation, for tho short coat accentuates tho high waist lino, which Is one of tho snllent points of tho now mode. Tho Jnckot hangs strnlght nnd looso nnd tho wnlstllno of tho skirt snuggles under tho anni so that tho lines of tho skirt fall straight from under tho overhanging coat. Tho collars col-lars and cuffs on this suit nro another prevalent feature of these nower Dlrectolro Dlrec-tolro styles. Thoy flnro and stand out straight and stiff away from tho coat to which thoy aro attached. In this Instanco they nro mado of yellow yel-low plquo cut doublo and stitched together. to-gether. It will bo noticed that everything about the dlrectolro lines makes tho models sultablo especially for tho slightest variety of feminine figure, but tho designers, who nro, after all, clever wizards, explain that It Is a perfectly posslblo matter to mako tho frocks and conts adapt themselves to figures of moro ample proportions. Thoy have tricks of cutting nnd fitting thnt bring the lines Into hnrmony both with tho figures they nro designed to adorn and with tho period which sets tho fashion. Coat Has High Waistline. A blue sergo suit ono of tho fresh-fat fresh-fat on tho market and Just newly luunched from tho workroom Is mado with a coat that has n high wulst line, but which Is moro fitted than tho ono mentioned. Thero Is then attached a fitted and rounded pcplum mado up of thrco circular flounces, each ubput four Inches In width. Theso nro lined with tomnto-rcd silk that shows only nt rnro Intervals when tho flounces sweep uwny from tho tlguro and show tho color thnt Is their foundation. Tho collar on this suit Is mndo of whlto pique, and Is shaped so that It stands way up bnck of tho head In the stlffest and moRt picturesque manner. Then tho cuffs nro fully llvo luches In width, nro mado doublo, and turn bnck over the suit sleeves. It Is a pretty fash-Ion, fash-Ion, and most becoming when well done. Another suit, with coat that reaches well below tho knees In front nnd slopes to n shorter length at back, Is mndo of champagne-colored twill. At tho point where tho severely cut rovers ro-vers come together thero Is n yoke lino and n link button to hold tho coat In place. Then tho rest of tho coat tarries out tho straight dlrcctolru line, and the skirt Is Just tight enough and straight enough to mnko walking a slmplo mattor. This suit Is trimmed with tho merest suggestion of nn Insertion In-sertion of Ilomnn-strlped ribbon running run-ning lengthwise of the skirt nnd Inserted In-serted nt tho edges of tho coat pockets and along the outer edges of tho sleeves for a space abovo the flaring portions nt tho hands. This Is ono Iof tho most practical of all tho nower models, and ono that Ib surely destined des-tined to bo n notable spring success. I . Spring Frock of Gray Twill behind tho head and above tho ears. This ravishing garment Is lined with nn illusive bit of peach crcpo and has a bit of plcot ribbon In tho samo Shade running round tho base 'of tho collar, to bo tied In a bow with streaming ends directly In tho center of tho back. Tho way this wrap uchloves n dlrectolro dlrec-tolro silhouette underneath nil Its ruf-flings ruf-flings Is n beautiful thing to behold, and If It Is nny crltctlon of tho wraps to bo under tho nppronchlng regime, then welcome tho change |