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Show I a I Embroidery Is I TTsed in Paris B Blnco It Is the little thing about tho t B ' French fnohtons of this season that, lj B paradoxically enough, nro new and ur- resting, then It Is tho llttlo tilings B which demand our nttuntlon for mure , B than a passing inoiuent, writes a Farls , Bj fashion correspondent. About nil tho H gowns, whether or not they uro new in BJ silhouette, there Is somo entirely fresh , Bj note In tho way of their trimming. Tho ; Bj suhtlo little ways that tho French enn BJ find to tuck u new expression of adorn- Bj incnt nboni a gown nrc continually stir Bj! prising, even to those who know them Bj best, Bj They announco Hint embroidery Is BJ not ns good In style ns It once wnn BJ nnd then they proceed to tuck In tiny Bj touches of embroidery that uro beau- Bj tltul In themselves and without which Bj tho gown would nmount to nothing at Bj" nil. Tho conclusion Is, then, that ono Bj cannot tnke their word on generalities, Bj hut that, It tho French dressmaker Is Bj to bo fully understood, her produc- BJi tlons must bu regarded ono at a tlmo BJt bj Iffli(i nww'u BJ r""l II ilSj) uuuj BJ) Tho Blue Serge Suit for Spring Has H Braid Trimming and Dainty Orna. BE mentation. j nnd In dotnll, for sho contradicts her- BJJ self Just abont as often ns sho mukes Bjj' n gown, nnd In this way sho asserts BJ her own artistic right to bo called n BJ designer. No rond Is tho right road BJ for her except the ono that sho chooses BJ to tnko tho next tuoment. BJ Thero la mora and moro of a ten- BJ, deney to mako many gowns which aro BJ entirely plain, but, mi the contrary, BJn, when thero la trimming, It assumes BJ'W, ' an altogether new Importance, becauso BJ ' It Is judiciously done. It Is something BJi which must bo studied to bo uppreel- BJ' nted, and thoro is no possibility of BJt using n spot of trimming to cover up BJii a defect. Tho linen and tho trimming BJI'; of tho now gowns all work together; f Flowers for 1 hey do not overlap In nny Instance. jut each has Its distinct part. Small Amount of Trimming. Ah it rule, nowadays, there Is not 11 great deal of trimming on any one gown, hut for thnt very reason each bit of It assumes an ciiunuccd value. Tho embroidery that ono sees Is not so lavishly nppllud; It Is distributed In moro or less Isolated spots. Tho tendency Is more toward the distribution distribu-tion of Inrge motifs, with big spaces left between them rather than to lump them together In any one place. Hut, Just for an exception, in tho collection col-lection of l'n ton there are to bo found n number of cmbioldered trimmings very finely doge and applied In closely set rown. Another embroidered trimming trim-ming has pcnrls superimposed on n loosely woven red woolen muterlal, which Is, In its turn, applied as th trimming of n frock of blue serge. Many of tho designers uro uslnz printed materials, silks and even cot tons, out of which they pick u certain pattern and proceed to embroider It again with threads or with beads. Martial et Arniand have done this with n piece of foulard printed In Persian pattern, to which they have added certain cer-tain groupings of tiny beuds nnd out-llnlngs out-llnlngs of Koutnche braid. Thoro Is an original Mjrt of trimming trim-ming mado of medallions of enamel lu Iridescent slindes of blue and black. They look very lovely when used for trimming u dress of somo dark material. mate-rial. In fnct, -enamel rrrunged In vur-Ions vur-Ions sorts of ornaments Is very much used by the French creators this sen-son. sen-son. I'olrct uses enamel to make n set of cuffH for one of his costumes. I'olrct bus another trimming mado of llttlo rings of wooden muterlal, which, when they arc grouped together, togeth-er, glvo something tho effect of edgings edg-ings of ostrich feathers. Strlnfli of Wooden Deadj. Most of the couturiers nro showing this season strings of wooden beuds In strongly contrasting colors us red and black, for Instnnce. They nro using, too, collars of sheer orgiuidlo trimmed with lace, edged with tucks or handled In somo way to enhance tho effect of Its transparent texture. Pendants and drops nnd ncorns and bead fringes nro used now again, though they cannot In nny way be Mild to dominate tho trimmings mode. Madeleine et Madeleine uso acorns to frlngo tho hem of tho thlnnest,of chiffon chif-fon frocks. They glvo a quivering look to tho thing, which Is what tho French lovo to call "umuslng," Tho clicking sound of these wooden beads knocking knock-ing against each other is not tho least of their charming wnys, for they achlevo In this way u curtain piquancy. Again In tho collection of Madeleine et Madeleine ono sees u gown of thin muslin In gray, with turtle dovo plumes laid on lint for trimming. They havo a street frock, tho collar of which Is clasped by u woolen roso standing out In bold relief, and two moro of these '(lowers are placed at ono sldo of the belt. On tho belt of another gown there Is an enormous coenrdo mado of black clro satin, with n red center. For trimming tho designers lovo to uso rows of llttlo flat tlowcrs placed along tho edges wherover it Is possl-bio possl-bio to uso them. Sometimes they nro llowers, and again they uro fruits, and they nro always most dcllcato'y and Intricately put together. Molyncux uses n collection of flow-era flow-era nnd fruits lacquered over for a finish, nnd theso ho winds Into u garland gar-land to bo used for trimming on a gown wherever they feel most at home, belong likes to uso great flowers made of soft pieces of leather, though he Is npt to substitute a rosette of silver ribbon. the Waistline |