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Show I Must Watch the I Modes of Paris HH! Renl expression of Paris Is found In HK. the restaurant frock. Ana tills Is tbo HBT (Into of year when designers over HBs thre aro bending the best of their ef- HHj forts to create dresses of such chsrac- HHj ten Then, observes n fashion writer HHj In the Now York Times, whllo we In BBk America do not go In for the restaur- HH ant frock as such, gill wo linvo n ills HH t,lnct predisposition to n dress of this HK type, and It Is frue thoso models for BBm Parisian restaurant llfo that wo tnko HHi many of tho Ideas which carry us Into HK mora particularized American crca- BBV lions. The dresses, In fact, which aro HH being worn now In Paris nro thoso It BflH bchoovos us to watch from this sldo of BH the Atlantic, If wo wish to bo any- HH wttero In touch with fashlonB as Uiey HH proceed along their varied ways. HH Bat tho restaurant dresses that aro ?ow just now aro tho loveliest, It seme, which hnvo over been made. BBS Tbey aro simpler oven tlmn tho elm- HH plest of day-tlma frocks, but the have HH that distinction of cut and lino Bnd BBk fabric which marks them' for leaders HH, In their own generation. Most of tho HHj draping has disappeared; uneven HBf hems, Except thoso very much re- BBft W ' r BsS xv. bYhYsm BbEbYat JRRljBTbVVbYhm BbM BBBBBHhV K l .. , r' , , , - -- BH Blaefc Crepe Frock With Silver Beads. HJj strained, aro taboo, and altogether tho HH best of tho fresher dresses of this sort HBt have resolved themselves Into quite BH classic affairs. BBk Quito Interesting nro the newest of BBf the dresses from three of tho lending HH Parisian couturiers. They uro Jonny, HH Polrct end Prcraot, each of whom Is HH entitled to a distinct command for BBm fashion as It exists and shall exist. All HH the waistlines nro us long as Is consist. BK wit with a ptcturcsquo effect. Tho BBm material Is the only real consideration HH about tho gowns, and, whllo the skirts MpJ or long, they nro not unduly so, to Hflj Instigate a riot In tho camp of those BH! who hntu to seo the skirts of dresses BH) drop too far. Hj Sparkles With Brilliancy. BHj Jenny's dress Is mndo of black crcpo. BHJ The French cnll It "crcpo morocaln Bf nolr." It Is then trimmed with tho slightest tracery of beads In Blivcr and gray. It might, upon this description, bo called dull, but only by ono who did not know tho urt of a French designer. Those clover ones and especially Jenny can mako black and gray and silver shlno until they glow with color, nnd that with only tho merest bit of a pnttern of trimming with which to create n contrast. Tho bodlco of this frock Is typical of so many of the newer waists. It Is Just a trlllo longer than tho nonnnl wnlstllnu und manages to givo that effect, of complcto Indifference to a waistline of any sort. Dut, ns n mat tcr of fact, It Is studiously arranged on u foundation or lining dress, which holds It uncompromisingly In place. Tho bigness of tho sleeves Is only an excuso for giving nctunl grace nnd line to that portion of tho frock, and tho slcovcs are a center of tho design of tho costume ns n whole. Around New York Just recently a grent many dresses of this general character huvo been noted. They wcro mostly mndo of n dull and heavy crepe, or of n shiny black sntln of ono of tho standard nnd reliable weaves. But tho sleeves nro always very big nnd floppy, and they mnnngo to glvo a graco to tho costume which Is distinctly new and which, It bus been noted, Is some-thing some-thing which adds n totally novel character char-acter to tho gowns of this season. Many of these drcslses aro mndo without any trimming wlmtevcr and most of them nro In black. They nro the smurtcst of nil, beyond any doubt. Hut hero have been seen frocks made In tfio most brilliant of colored crepes nnd satins, which hnvo held their placo along with .tho general throng In a quite rcmnrkublo way. ' Colors Much More' In Vogue. Tho later news from Paris says that colors aro much moro lu voguo than they havo been In tho recent past. llu. In Now York, wherovcr well-dressed women nro gathered together, thcro Is ii surprising preponderance of black. During tho last few weeks ono has noted somo exception to this general rule In tho way of ull-whlto frocks seen on many of tho younger girls of tho theater and dunces, nut, ns n rule, these frocks aro made ntong plojn and simple lines, Just us their black sisters, and they take the tono of their general gen-eral effect from their harmony with tho personality of tho wearer. Often a white dress on a very accentuated ac-centuated brunette typo will crcato tho most vividly colorful effect. And again tho all-black costumo on n girl whoso hair nnd complexion nro n light blonde aro tho things which mako every beholder sit up and tnko particular par-ticular notice. Premet's gown Is made from n combination of black sntln and n vivid bluo chiffon, upon which foundation foun-dation nro sewn blnck Jet cnbochons In n regularity of pattern which Is most charming. Again thu walstllno Is long, without being too unwieldy In Its general proportions, pro-portions, und again tho design nnd construction con-struction of the frock aro so simple that they seem to defy competition In that particular direction. Tho block satin Is so arranged thnt It seems to mako tho foundation gown, but nothing noth-ing of that sort has really happened. Tho two materials nro so blended that, between them, they mnko n pattern nnd n clever combination that seems destined to mako tho gown which shall bo tho most successful of tho season. From this gown It will bo seen that no particular accent has been put upon up-on tho walstllno. At thnt point a slmplo fold of tho mnterlul has. been tho polo claimant to distinction, nnd It has succeeded lu preserving the straight line of tho gown with perfect effect. |