| Show kh V al Y A Z z Z crowded shipping on an the min river at Pro prepared Dared by the Nati national conal society W washington hington hinxton hin D 0 which once ranked rallied F among the tea ports of the world and then two decades ago bowed to ceylon and japan la Is stilling stiL staging ging a comeback the steep slopes of fullen province of which la Is capital and leading city again are covered with thriving tea bushes big alg men women and children throng the plantations picking ten tea leaves from dawn to dusk tea laden porters form an almost endless parade from the plantation to the tea warehouses and boats on the alin piled with packages of tea recall the days das when yankee clipper ships cleared with cargoes of fragrant leaves destined to american teapots F bochow port Is really not in the cites suburbs the nearest gate in the cites five mile vine clad wall Is more ore than three miles from the north bank of the alin about 34 miles from the sea few travelers visit to re reach itch the port one must go by I 1 oat boat tor for railroads and good roads are not to be found in tills this region ocean going vessels from shanghai and hong xo kong 11 g make regular trips up the alin which penetrates the chinese coast opposite the north end of taiwan formosa the vessels may steam up the river as far as pagoda anchorage there passengers are transferred to launches which after nine miles of dodging matting covered sam pans and grotesquely carved high pooped junks deposit their human cargo at the cites suburban docks if one wants to go native however he may ma board a native boat with the owners erff family fowls dogs and pigs and travel in the atmosphere 0 of f the I 1 min the rivers obstruction at pagoda anchorage Is artificial formed when stone laden barges were sunk there to prevent a french fleet from reaching the city during the franco foo chow troubles in it Is the characteristic act of the chinese love for things as they are that business men have waited so long to take steps to clear the channel and thus avoid the endless annoyance of reloading of cargoes I 1 from river to city the journey from the river to the city may be made by bus jinrikisha or sedan chair frequently travelers traveler s prefer to be landed on the south side of df the river where they get a glimpse of the most modern portion of the foreign settlement ona small email hill are foreign consulates western churches hospitals and handsome residences which constitute a community almost independent of the chinese city while below Is s a bustness business district with streets lined with foreign n and native owned shops where eastern and western merchandise Is on display commodious clubs wide sweeps of grassy lawns dotted with flowering gardens a race track tennis courts and pleasure craft on the alin tend to keep beep the small foreign population contented the visitor should not hurry into F bochow proper even een if he could for to do so would be to miss the physical beauties and fabled history that accentuate each step of the journey from the ocean to the port along the alin one may see pearl divers should a diver be drowned his fellows stoically conclude that lie hils has fallen a victim to the sea turtle chinese equivalent for the legendary sea serpent of the west near pagoda iagoda anchorage rises sharp peak capped by a tower built by a wife to welcome homo home an oriental enoch arden who when lie he saw it thought he had mistaken the river ant and sailed away again never to return A mandarins footprint in a rock commemorates me the summary punishment of quarrymen who kept right on chopping away its companion footprint despite the flow of blood that spurted out at ench stroke when removed toa to a place in a bridge it registered a protest by kicking its bearers into the river so the companion was not me molested inside pile he wall a few modern schools and government buildings have punctuated un an otherwise low lot flat sky line of rather dingy buildings telegraph keys click in telegraph offices electric lights are aval available lable to those who can afford them a few automobiles to may be seen on the main streets and western fashions vie with those of the orient but if the traveler steps into a bilow side street lie he steps into an era several centuries past streets that twist and turn and come to abrupt 8 tops stops were marked features of foo fee chows early city planners for example the tortuous bouto of one street might be visualized by drawing a diagram I 1 it begins by running eastward and then northward eastward northward eastward northward eastward southward westward southward southeastward southward westward southward eastward and southward travelers use sedan chairs the whole course of this thoroughfare Is equal to but a few american city blocks in length and nowhere Is it wide enough for even a jinrikisha to lo pass without driving playing children and their playmates filthy dogs aln and d pigs into bordering doorways the sedan chair Is used by most travelers to penetrate the pas sag eways where the odors permeating the atmosphere are so overwhelming to foreign nostrils that chair bearers are urged on to the nearest breathing spaces ancient as seems to be ba to the westerner it Is a sort of wild west of china to the natives of canton and neiping Pei ping in the days of confucius all china looked upon boon the region that now Is F ulden province as the balli bailiwick of barbarians the wall that encompasses the city did not rise until the mins aling period which covered the years that america was discovered and colonized while poor transportation facilities for reaching have constituted an important factor in keeping the city truly oriental cholera and the bubonic plague have also caused outsiders outs to give it a wide berth perhaps the pleasant est portion of a tour Is a visit to the tea factories and warehouses where tea leaves scented with jasminos jasmines jas mines roses and chrysanthemums are sorted from dawn to dusk by chinese women and children last year exported more than pounds of fu klen kien tea and re exported an additional pounds which were shipped to its tea perfumeries eries erles 11 there are more than forty tea factories in the city the open shops along the a streets reveal thousands of natives eking out an existence in various industries dus tries before ones eyes artisans make wooden pillows and images of gods and odd looking beasts cabinet makers turn out fancy furniture potters shape and fire handsome vessels brick makers fashion their products in all shapes sizes and colors both men and women sit silently embroider ing or weaving the dark cloth usually worn by peasants and dyers with inky hands seemingly turn old garments m ants into new of a different color trade with 27 cities find and many small villages above which are reached by river boats accounts for much of Foo chows commercial activity it was not until 1881 1801 when the uin min was opened to forean shipping that the cites suburbs spread out along the alin banks and merchants beckoned to world trade since then annual output of tea alone once reached nearly pounds and it bids fair to repeat repeal the dog worshipers on a ma mountain not far ar from the city one encounters the dog worshipers easily distinguishable by the peculiar coiffure of their women a scaffold like effect with a cord dangling before the he face this Is worn because of a myth which holds that a dog once saved the city and the gods rewarded him by subjecting him to a process by which ho he was to become human after ills his incarceration for seven times forty days an impatient provincial pandora lifted the cover when all but hla his head had been transformed and thus left a dog headed mm maa in going to claim his bride his fare wlas was covered so po his canine features might not offend her so to this day the women of the mountain wear the headdress in honor of him and on nesy NAY years day they worship the image of a dogs dog near the city Is doctrine hill which derives this one of its many names from froin the residence there of a certain learned man who accumulated a library a blo 1510 volume shelt shelf known an aa the doctrine of the universe Uni |
