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Show ""! -t- -r -r -t- V 4 yV tt-t4 t4-Vt4-4-VV 'tt ; 0 Jnkmt to . ZTflrfp Headers SIMPLE EVENING BODICE OF SILK AND CHIFFON. FASHION LETTER FROM PARIS. J J Quantities of Handsome Gowns Are Being Sent to London in Spite of the War Coats Are Eccentric . The "Baby" Waist Is Back in Style and. Fringe Is Used on Ev- erything Eats Tall and Skirts . I long. j Paris, March 2S. By the time you 4 read this it will ha almost time for ; society to come back from the Riviera : f and then for the London pea.soii! '. Speculation is rife as to the tone ; i which the London reason will assume. i "Wlil May and. June be deadly dull, ' i with all the smart men at the war and : all the smart women in sackcloth .nd ashes, or vill a deliehtful season of Fales and bazars and war entertain- 1 ments keep London pay! The queen has promised that L-he will H either hold her drawing-rooms per- : I penally or will requ?st that thorough ; society woman, the Princes of Wales, 's to preside for her, and, besides this, Victoria has signified that, if her -".i . health allow?, she will be present at several garden " parties and in other xvays let the English people know that 1 their queen still lives. Many handsome gowns are being made for the late Paris season on the " i Riviera and at St. Moritz, which has . become very fashionable: and large ; I boxes are also shipped" to Monte Carlo's , ' healthful heights, laden with fashion's i requirements, which consist principally now of small belongings for the toilette, of which there were never so many. 4 The tendency is still toward the lilit tones. Two hats will illustrate this. One is the walking hat of Nile blue vel-, vel-, ' vet shrouded in Nile green chiffon with i ; the tiniest dot of old blue. At one eide , are violets in their leave?, a huge bunch of them, with the pale colors over-t over-t topping and outnumbering' the sombre I t shades. , The other is a very large eilk covered round hat to be worn well back upon the head. It is of bluish ping silk, trimmed with narrow rows of pal 3 red ; . p: raw. The trimming consist's of red ;! birds, and the tiniest Italian heather II which bears small resemblance to the t - Scottish flower. if TWO NEW COATk f Two coats were sketched a few days j-.j ago, worn respectively by the Countess j of Essex and Mrs. Arthur Paget. One r of the coats was a little tan Eton, with I ' p pake front, long and pointed ' and ; trimmed with braid. The other was I the new reefer with broad white, eatin lapels. The reefer buttoned at the belt line with one jewelled button. Its main '; feature was a stitching of contrasting -; silk which ornamented the darts of the little coat. Both of th.cse coats were j! made in Paris. Eccentric is the word which one , might apply to the little coats of spring. A pretty American girl, a Miss Rich of Chicago, purchased a gown for OddMy and variety seem to be the dual aims of the French dressmakers, and many of the new modes are entirely en-tirely different from those seen In any previous season. The vest and girdle of this calling dress were of white mousseline over white satin, the former being considerably consid-erably puffed so as to make a full front. The jacket and the bolero were quite separate, one being put on over the other. The jacket was cut in a zigzag zig-zag Grecian fashion to show a broad expanse of girdle and vest. It was of the castor broadcloth. Over it was worn the tiniest little jacket of Aeolian, cloth, as thin as crepe de chine and of a Phade to exactly match the castor broadcloth. TWO CT7FFS. The Robespierre cuffs are seen in several sev-eral different forms; for the street, where the sleeves are long, the cuffs are situated lo wover the hand so as to barely leave the knuckles visible. A cuff of this kind makes the hand look small and for this kind makes the hand look small and for that reason is worn very flaring. Another style of Robespierre Robes-pierre cuff is located just above the elbow, it turns back and is beautifully embroidered: this kind of cuff is worn with the little house coats which are fashionable on the Riviera. The fashionable woman of this spring will not hesitate to purchase a whole trunk of these little house coats, varying vary-ing in length from the arm coat to the one which is open at the sides and. falls to the floor over a tea gown of taffeta or china silk, or crepe de India. The house coat, properly fashioned, is a very desirable article of dress, for it is cool in summer and warm in winter. win-ter. At this time of year it can be clipped on over the early shirt waist, and when summer comes it can be worn over a vest and broad Turkish girdle. A Paris modiste showed me half a dozen little house coats of embroidered pique, cotton challie, mulle, nainsook, and; madras. All were made over wash eilk, and those that happened to be transparent received a very pretty glow from their silken lining. The season of transparencies is not at an end. One of the smartest dresses, dress-es, worn at a reception given by the wife of the president, was of black mousseline de soie over white taffeta. Tiie foot of the skirt got its note of color from a very deep border of forget-me-nots which extended all the way round the skirt, somewhat confining the mousseline de soie, and in a way detracting from its lightness. The forget-me-nots were of silk and varied in color from deep purple to pale blue, thus taking great liberties with nature. na-ture. The little coal, worn with this skirt, was a bolero, made entirely of finely tucked white taffeta, edged with 2, deep cream lace ruching. Medallions of . cream lace were appliqued ovr the tucks, decorating the bolero in conventional con-ventional fashion. The half sleeve had a turned back f tfum w, 1 ml III ? t I V M v mm 1 MISS WEST. TIIE MOST FORTUNATE GIRL IN ENGLAND. ' a fashionable reception. It was in half a dozen pieces, including ekirt. jacket, bolero, vest, belt and tall curved collar. It was a typical calling costume. The skirt was built of castor colored broadcloth, broad-cloth, piped with rose colored panna. Around the foot there was a trimming of bengaline, overlaid with a curious cloth decoration. The cloth was cut in strips, held together by a broad band at top and midway. This eiiiire decoration deco-ration was fastened over the bengaline to such a way as to make a trimming Vhir.b 1- J puff of Nile green panne velvet; the collar and girdle were of the same panne. There was etill another part to this somewhat complicated dress, for it had I a vest of white chiffon, bound across with Email black velvet bows. The sleeves were of chiffon. OF MANY PIECES. "While the charge of extravagance can be truthfully laid at fashion's door, it is a fact that gowns are so made up aiff MuvrV.no i-mcri-alo-jxA frnlojvj that a woman of ingenuity can put together to-gether a very acceptable house dress, or even an afternoon or reception gown at small cost. As a couturiere told me, "with five yards of taffeta,, five yards of crepe de India, a little piece of velvet, some squares of lace, a ruffle of chiffon, and a few artificial flowers, I can fashion for Madame a handsome reception dress. If Madame will only give me her left-over pieces, that is all. I can make a gown from her last winter's social ball dress." The waist known as "baby" is back. This waist is round in the neck, front and back, after the style adopted by Mrs. Cleveland in the United States some years ago, and later chosen by the Countess Casteliane and other Paris leaders of fashion. In design around the waist line it is alike simple, for it is shirred all the way around, with the fullness pulled well-down in the hack, but left baggy over the waist in front and on the sides. A figured silk challie, in Marie An-tionette An-tionette blue with figures of Cairo green, was made with one of the new spreading skirts, without a particle of fullnessi at the hips. The skirt flared perceptibly from the kneesc down: in the middle of the back it was relieved by a box plait. India challies come this year in very fine grades. They are thinner than cashmere, as soft as nun's veiling, and as beautifully figures as,brocaded silks. Many of them have the slightly raised patterns of the Turkish weaves. Thely are easily made up and are very becoming becom-ing to any figure. While fashion is yet undeveloped, for we never know until after Easter what will be worn in summer, it is certain That Paris hats will be large. That coats will be irregular in shape, rhort in the back and open in front, with a tendency toward the Eton. Skirts will be worn very long in front as well as in the back, and house dresses will show a froth of white ruffles around the feet. LADY SMITH AT THE AGE OF NINETEEN AND AT TIIE AGE OF NINETY-FIVE. j Her Purpose. ' (By Ella Wheeler Wilcox.) Down the long vistas of the years she gazed With eager eyes, expect int, and alert. Somewhere her Purpose waited; that great work For which she was created. In her heart Burned the deep longing to achieve, achieve To lead some glorious effort for reform! To feed some stnrving minds with loaves of thought. And hungry hearts with love; to cheer, to aid. To help Immunity to nobler heights And purer altitudes'. She cn red not how Xor through what paths God led her to her work. She was prepared for sacrifice and toil And suffering, so he it at the last She might attain her Purpose. Night and day This thought was dominant; it had shaped her dreams And colored all her actions, and it grew To he a wall, which shut her duty out And hid the hearts of dear ones from her view. A good man starved for love beside her hearth. And little children wandered from the home To find their pleasure elsewhere, and to learn Life's mysteries from other lips than tiers. She dreamed of leading hosts to happiness The while her own were hungering for her eare. She dreamed of fame and glory while dear Love Sat in the solitude and pined to death. She waited for her Purpose, and knew not It dwelt forever lonely at her side And went because she would not understand. under-stand. Little Things. A good-bye kiss is a little thing. With your hand on the door to go. But it takes the venom out of the sting Of a thoughtless word or cruel fling That you made am hour ago. A kiss of greeting is sweet and rare After the toil of the day. And it smooths the furrows plowed by care, ; The lines on the forehead you once called fair In the vears that have flown away. 'Tis a little thing to say: "You are kind; I love you, may dear." each night; But it sends a thrill through the heart I find For love is tender, as love is hlind As we climb life's rugged height. We stnrye each other for love's caress; We take, but we do not give. It seems so easy some soul to bless. But we dole the love grudgingly less and less Till 'tis bitter and hard to live. A Tolling Bell. j It throbs, embittered, through the scented I ir ' It nains the utter sweetness of the k Mav That weary bell! It grieves the birds away. ! And cherry twitterings fall to dumb de-SDair. de-SDair. The voice of Earth is woe. How else declare de-clare Her sense of sin? The cross, above, holds sway Over the bell tower: and, alone, today. I feel its mighty presence. Who can bear Its crushing weight of tears and thorns and blood? O. lilies white abloom! O, blessed bells That ring adown the vales of Paradise! O, souls gone thither, naught of earth foretells Your joyousness of amethystine skies, Your surging bliss, in broad, illumined flood. 1 In the Sanctuary. He is waiting, ever waiting. Through the brightness of the day. Through the sound of many footsteps And the clamor of the way. From the first glad hours of morning To the solemn hush of noon, Through the bleakness of December, And the sultriness of June. He is waiting, ever waiting. Through the stillness of the night, j When the moon rides high in heaven, I And the silent stars are bright; Where the pale lamp burns forever, Like a guide to weary feet. And the very silence murmurs: "Wanderer, pause, the rest is sweet" He Is waiting, ever waiting, Through the days and months and years. He has peace for bruised spirits; He has balm for bitter tears. On the cross, through death and anguish, Once He made us all His own, O, ye thoughtless sons of Adam, Shall He wait and watch alone? "Mizpah." (Gen. xxxi, 39.) Go thou thy way, and I go mine-Apart, mine-Apart, vet not afar; Only a thin veil hangs between The pathways where we are. And "Good keep watch. 'tween thee and me" This is my prayer He looks thy way, he looketh mine, And keeps us near. I know not where thy rflad may He, Or which way mine may be; If mine will be through parching sands, And thine beside the ceas; Yet God keeps watch 'tween thee and me, So never fear. He holds thy hands, He claspeth mine, And keeps us near. Should wealth and fame perchance be thine, . , And my lot lonely be; Or vou be sad and sorrowful, And glory be for me; Yet God keeps watch 'tween thee and me Both be His care; One arm 'round thee, and one 'round me Will keep us near. I sigh sometimes to see thy face, But. since this may not be, I'll leave thee to the care of Him Who cares for thee and me. "I'll keep you both beneath My wing" This comforts, dear. One wing o'er thee, and one o'er me. So we are near. And though our paths be separate, And thv way is not mine, Yet, coming to the mercy seat, My soul will meet with thine. And "God keep watch 'tween thee and me," I'll whisper there; He blessed thee, and He blessed me, And we are near. |