Show 3 U r iz he Ir f. f h How I ow Classic Draperies Draperies Drap Drap- rap eries eries Are re Being Reproduced in in Modern Dresses Yi T These ese Ancient Ancient- Ancient Ancient- Modern Costumes Dispense with Trimming rimmi T Depend Depending Dep e nd- nd ii i ing n ng for or Effect onIa on r Ia it c. c r B Beauty 0 of f C Color I or yx an and and LIne inel rd t Theres There's no denying that paradoxical r as it ma may sound to be quite up to date ft th the woman of today must have hao more in her dress than a hint of antiquity T r Not content with the clinging shortT short- short costumes costumes t of ot the Empire period l. l the she now skips some soma centuries and resurrects the schemes of ot dressing dressing- of ot 1 the ladles Indies of ot ancient Greece These she nonchalantly adapts to the possibilities possibilities of ot today today's modes If It one has any remembrance of oC ones one's French history one will perhaps recall that at the beginning of ot the French revolution the people of or France for a awhile awhile awhile while went quite quito mad on the subject of at classic dress The women did their hair in imitation or of antique busts and wore scant scanty and flowing drapery The Themen Themen men not to be outdone outdone- sacrificed their cherished curls and displayed close cropped heads of the Roman fashion It 11 was their way of showing admiration for tho the ancient republics and the fashion lasted for several years I So perhaps after all nU we are aro only onh logically retrograding Though goodness goodness good good- ness nus knows s where wo we shall land I hope bopo the tho movement will stop atop short of ofa a the tho Garden of Edon I I So So-In So the iho rather ultra u mod models modals lJ ono one O find KO dB Kown bu orr Or try try- skirts and folded waists all flowing Into one ona sleeves more moro often orten than not dispensed dis I. I with in favor Cavor of more folds drawn dran around the top of ot the arm or transparent stuffs hanging low scarf scarf- like toward the elbow Now will the dressmaker have to toI I f burn the midnight oil or oil or electric light if 11 she be a dressmaker of ot fashion fashion- studying the great grent art of ot line Now will wUl she he have havo to consult books of ot ancient ancient ancient an an- art to learn the secret of ot drap drag ing For the gowns of the day are like a point dry etching etching no no lino line once traced or cut can be erased or hidden hidden hid hid- den with a frivolous frill for Cor frills A are things 3 tabooed But Dut now also comes the tho da day of or the amateur dressmaker with a sure aure eye eyo for artistic effect For after all the artistic eye is what is needed to the ry success of ot these queer semi-classic semi j- j gowns Without that a gown turned r r out by the smartest dressmaker wIll wll be a dismal failure while a gown made in the house by tho the so much dressmaker under the direction of ot some f discerning member of or the family may JUay make an effect most flattering to the wearer One thing sure there will be an immense Immense Immense Im Im- mense saving In the usual expense of or trimmings for tor of ot trimming there Is 18 little on the these theBo o gowns which depend so much on the beauty of ot material color colorI I I and and line You will see seo that In n the figure marked marked marked mark mark- ed A N the only trimming visible is isa isa a bit of or fringe on the long scarf which I Is draped around the shoulders Nothing could be more simple than thiS thiS' dress Made of or panne satin supple ye yet et having some Bomo b d ills Is cut on the tam fam liar princess s lines The Tho skirt Is s long I e. e and absolutely plain From the waist wals 1 1 up the satin Is laid In soft sort folds folLis around the waist almost simulating a n. broad i girdle But Du t Just across the tho th bust It is t i. i most unexpectedly plain ri t. t The gown has hM no sleeves a scarf s-eart o of s the same material with V very long ends taking their place The Tho neck Is cu cut b t In a a. round without a hint of any trim to ming whatever whatever- This round Id neck Is a feature of man many many of of the new r deml toilette models But Dut while It Is striking it is alsO very t tt trying 3 In g and I I- fear the percentage r of or women to f whom it would would prove prove becoming coming Is small Only a very youthful face and perfect neck could wear It successfully That t there hero may be bo no mistake about t e the Grecian intent of ot the tea frown ow In X the sketch marked B n the desi ner z tt has put a most distinctive badge upon t iV It In tn the Greek pattern which 0 ors rs it it i Is U It possible that tho the delicious feml- feml I I 1 5 q e- e i e eAL AL J I nine frivolity of tho the tea gown gown gown-a a frivolity frivolity which takes the shape of ot frothy white lace ruffles an and roses fashioned of ribbon and all kinds of delicate co coquetry co- co will will be E sacrificed to t the tho a severe simplicity of tho the classic mode In this one ne example at least It unquestionably ably Is Again wo we havo the Ion long stole ends reaching almost to the skirt hem back and front But Dut hero they do not moan mean an absence of or sleeves for tor much draped mead 1 sleeves appear below These are at attached attached attached at- at to tho the body of the robe which Is long and flowing of ot white crepe de dechine dechine dechine chine of ot a very satiny finish Tho The drapery which Is folded across the bust Is IS' edged with the tho Grecian border which Is la done in fine dull gold 1 cord The same border is applied on the stole and hero it is further outlined on either side by a heavier cord of gold bold old Tassels of gold old weight th the corners This tea gown Is constructed all of one material but It would be quite possible to have havo a 3 note of contrast In Inthe Inthe inthe the stole stoIa ends of some color Introduced In the bordering Could you Imagine more plaits and folds finding footing on one ono gown o th than n enter Into Into or or perhaps I should say form form the the construction of ot the dress shown in the tho sketch lettered C C. C Plaits and toJ folds s on the tho skirt over plaits and fol folds s on tho waist waist again again on the sleeves The under skirt alone alono escapes but it is so 50 full fun that quite of Its own will It follows suit and hanks hangs in folds Colds around the wearers wearer's feet Of course only in the most supple material could It Il be hoped this dress would be a success But as an Illustration Illus illus- us- us ration of tho the much-draped much and folded I costume it is Jg useful Made in th this Is case e of silky broadcloth of tho the lightest chiffon chilton chitton chit chit- ton fon texture and of the color known as ns ban banana ann It t is noticeable for tor the striling striking ing arrangement of ot the lace on the tho skirt over This lace of almost the tho same tone as the cloth Is heavily darned in shaded silks with a a. rich of- of ef teet The Tho same came lace Is used in the V-shaped V yoke oke which La is outlined in a a r M f u fJ I Jf r 1 D b c v 1 ivy ivyN I. 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V lj l r r n 11 r r a N Y u u- u w o aaa a r v e a a- a ar r v s. s a s e s rl ll r r I 1 rl II M N N h N h 1 N M x Y r w x a f a a a c a f e s ewe I 1 II M wex y IMI aaa II W h II 11 II r 4 Y r N 1 ae sa II II 1 e 1 nr N N II rYr c I a a a I N I N rI 11 N I N r I I- I 4 graces r H a r f 11 11 11 11 1 II 1 7 M f r Z r 7 ae II T T a as N silo all 1 rl I 1 If v r 1 11 1 1 11 1 Y N IIII s e r a e a s f a a LII L j I f N N N e N hY N N II N p N N t A f I s l a 3 r 1 l h i V y I 11 i. i j II II 11 If h 1 r A r A f fr I I fl 1 J 1 i J I J r j q C I I I r. r E 4 f I 1 I i Ii l. l I 1 V-i V It I I 1 r Jj A t iIi l 1 t l r 1 r- r J I t. t it i ji t 1 r O y H ill I 1 J 11 ii 1 I s 0 I r I r. r 1 i I td jj I n nJ 1 i I a 1 p. p lit I E E I II I t i i lit I II I d I t a 1 1 J. J c f E J h I h I l jb II 1 tk h I 1 1 J J I 1 Q l Ir I I o j 7 fA tl r J j IJ I- I r r. r r J M I i Ri R 4 I i y 1 01 O 0 t 11 J 31 Much n nob 0 h A Darned Draped Gown Goun of I r I 1 Folded FaMed and Drap Draped Raspberry ll Re Red l 4 ed and Trimmed PaD Panne D C Sat Satin I n n With Darned Showing the New Lace Untrimmed Round i ti D D- D n Antique Jewels 1 r Are Ar- ArIn In fa Demand Deml nd lor tor or Fa Fa n t ten en I Ing DC B B-A B A Tea Gown of Draperies P trice Simple and Distinctly Grec Gree- Grecian H rA A Striking Example Ex Ex- Inn ian Effect l ample of or 1 donate le Liner Linen r I J r r r heavy cord cord almost almost a rope rope of of dull gold The arc aro long Ions or of that fashion which Is being so slowly ac accepted accepted ac- ac B By tho the way I hear from friends In Pas Paris that It Is there a So winter of lace and fur Both Doth arc used In quite unparalleled unparalleled extravagance and utterly unpractical unpractical unpractical un un- un- un practical ways For man many of the fur CUI coats are arc sleeveless nn and collarless and andU andopen andopen open down the tite front to o cr every breeze that blows And lace Is In worn a a. way 11 I almost as absurd Irl Irish h lace I Is running first In fashions fashion's race and antl cuffs curts are made of or both heavy and delicate crochet The Parisians are particularly taken token with the combination of bf f this lace loce and fur fuT And this cannot wonder at when you ou see the charming coatee of or chhn- chhn chinchilla chin chilla Inset with heavy Irish crochet that Madame Ga ski Is wearing In New NewYork York this season It is a a. thing to dream of Women of the smart set and large larg hank bank accounts In Paris are aio wearing skating costumes made entirely of ot baby Persian lamb that delicIously supple but also expensive fur tur The skirts are of course short and made on scanty lines for tor even this sill silky fur wel weighs hs more than cloth or velvet That they may not be too narrow around the foot a shaped flounce of heavy black satin Is added This Is Iii as again ln ornamented at tho the hem horn by several several several sev sev- eral little overlaying o ruffles of finely finey pleated black blaek panne panno velvet Below this appears a narrow strip of or tho the fur not more than an inch and a half in width The coats to wear with these skirts are usually a combination of oC black satIn satIn satin sat sat- in and fur Tho The popular Idea of ot a n skating skating ing jacket being baing something very trim and fitting close can be thrown to the icy winds for tor these little French coats coots a. a are arc loose hanging ln and slashed and very short Where the tho protection against the attentions of ot Jack Jacle Frost comes inI InI in inI I confess I cant can't quite see French women have havo taken up the combination of fur and antl black satin with groat great enthusiasm Shawl I collars of black satin are seen on many costs coats of various kinds of ot furs These collars are aro very large lare turning down over the shoulders almost to tho the sleeve tops They are not so becoming as collars of fur tur but what will you Jou The They are the I. I fashion Quite the latest word In fur fashions Is sounded In the collars of ot fur which are making their appearance with fashionable morning costumes And they are Just that that collars Made oI de of chinchilla skunk which Is enjoying a sudden revival al In fashions fashion's t favor vor or sable they take the form of ot ofa a 0 single band of or fur made exactly like our dress collars They are arc mounted on a a. boned lining rising behind the ears and fastening in n the back with hocks and eyes under a chic butter butterfly bow of ot black satin ribbon Could you Imagine anything more original or original or more becoming Yer Very often otten no other otheT fur Is seen on tho costume although a a. huge muff of the same fur furas as the tho collar is sometimes carried Sleeves cs I 1 hear are growing grov longer each day In Paris Lace ruffling comInS' comInS coming com cam log InS down to the knuckles Is a becomIng becomIng becom becom- ing fashion and and- andone one being rapidly re re- re Toreador ties of or green satin or silk are fashionable They are very ample quite filling up tho tho the front t of th the jacket and It Is n a fad to have o a n belt TIle The Last w Word or ord i iii ii Fre French ch Fur Fasli- Fasli F as i ions ions wit with Details o of Several New New- ew Fads ads Observed serve Lately ill in iii Paris Fur Collars 0 ors o of u Fastened astene in in t be beBack Back Under Butterfly Butterfly Butterfly But But- of f Bows or Satin Are Most v Striking i J pi Pr exactly tho the same shade o of kid to match on Ono of or the tho most extreme examples of of classic lines s In these new gowns Is shown in sketch E In the tho original model this was a a. golden which own which was tas quite as true as to Its cost as ns to Its color cotor I have no doubt The close fitting clinging gown n which served as a foundation for the drap drapery r was a gol golden en net heavily embroidered em- em broidered In pearls and gold thread Two narrow straps strap formed an apology for tor sleeves The drapery was of gold gold- colored crepe de chine which is a a. fabric fabric fabric fab fab- ric In demand but one which will probablY probably probably ably gain a a. renewed popularity for Cor It ItIs ItIs ItIs Is an nn Ideal deal material for draping A large larg gold rose roae set with pearls was used to fasten the drapery at tho the left side aide From th there re it Il hung In several several several sev sev- eral folds fold's which would prove trying to any but bul the most slender figure In fact these classic gowns demand almost cla classically perfect forms As 5 these ornaments with which to fasten tho the draperies are such Important details of the classic gowns we can Imagine imagine im Im- im- im agine tho the mad search earch for odd and ef effective or- or 1 jewels which will bo Instituted Old curiosity shops will be ransacked in the hope of ot finding a lOa treasure of at course the more antique and odd tho the better Next Christmas we ma may expect ex expect expect ex- ex the modern girl to search eagerly toward the toe of ot her stocking for Cor the ancient clasp she he hopes to find there Art Aft can do little to aid nature when all tho the lines of or the tho human form dl- dl vine aro arc so frankly sUh au Its It's rather painful to imagine Ino n n. wo- wo man ot well bo j r dol r it It nr rounded J proportions attired g n t tired |