Show r 1 t 0 6 I UC I C lV r V cv t Ii- Ii f r 1 It 1 1 t I Ir I r I r I I 4 t ro t T d t h r r ab t i aT 1 c l Q 4 T t r The Influence o of he Y r t r. r r 1 f Empire Period Is Marked in in Many 0 of t y q s e Winter Models They Have the Short Effect in the Back an and f i I Hang ang Loosely in in Front Waistcoats A F r 7 l I I of New Design With a Word a b A-b out lJ rl I N I I r f I I dj the e Fascinating Jabot Jakot s r S I I It I t Il I rf II r f I r. r 1 I. I t i ha I 4 i t. t L i 4 I TIr r 1 1 ro tJ t r. r f fr I 1 1 r i I I I Ii IiI J. J I I t I. I t f. f t- t k of THOUGH I each year there thero is an A ALTHOUGH effort made to oust tho coat and skirt that useful ever part of or our wardrobe seems perennially to hold its own This year however tho the separate coat seems to bo be creeping into favor Jackets of velvet with 81 skirts of or broadcloth broadcloth broad broad- cloth of or the same shade are much seen In Paris The Thc suggestion of or empire lines which shows itself Just now all through our various articles of apparel apparel ap zip- parel is emphasized in tho the coats Al Almost AI- AI most invariably the they are made with a a. short effect in tho the back al alI although although al- al I though In n front the waist line is but slightly Indicated the thee coats hanging loosely from tho the shoulders Broadcloths are e even o more e than usually admirable this season and thc they como comp in qualities to suit every purse Rough French serges an and Scotch cheviots are arc well won liked and there thoro are the usual number of novelty weaves j in cloths from which to make a n. selection selection tion lion for your winter suit Hult The much discussed qu question of Ion long longor J or three-quarter three coat coal sleeves sleeve seems to have resolved It itself elf into a matter mattor o of Individual taste In tho the French models model y L three-quarter three length sleeves are made mad with but little at the tho top am and little shape shapo all an the way down They Thoy if end in lar largo large o cuffs hanging out loose loosely from tho the sleeve S ThiB This effect is la very well illustrated illustrate r 1 in the figure figuro marked B Br This coa coat t and skirt is sketched from rom a l French Frenc 3 model an and embodies all an tho the latest lines line 3 evolved by the great reat French dress dress- sIt s- s It b makers you You will notice that th the tho I tY rt length of shoulder Is exaggerated an and that a 3 suggestion of or a vest cst Is 18 given b by the tho white while broadcloth appearing above abo J the fiat flat collar conal of or black satin in front 4 Tho The long skirt hUH has all an the trimming I 1 r 1 rs I i I l I I I W J II p. p pyrl RI I Ij j IJ I I W lA O I IlI Il 1 I It ib till I t p I I rI LI v w rI Iy 1 1 lr II 1 h Ili I r i r f 1 r. r r I I i Ui Lilt I jC v i I. I J A Imm f I m. m I r I 1 I Ir r I I W I I I II I JL t o I ial I. I d rl II I Jr h 1 I 1 r a ar I II 1 r f r rI I 11 I IY 1 i 3 I I i I j S I j n 11 I I IF h Ii lof u I I I 1 t tf I I t M I 1 1 l I I lr i I II I I I 1 I r j I C flu u 6 W f I. i r- r I r I 1 I n lj ti tiLlS I I I I h l I r II Ai L A 1 i t I p pI C 11 IJ I I a I e h.- h. 1 ti'S I 1 I I 1 l i v I r 1 I J r b. b y r I I D I Confined to the bottom bottom bottom-a a band of ot black satin then braiding headed by a n. band of ot white broadcloth While many o of tho the model moel sul suits are aro mado made with trailing skirts tho the American American Ameri AmerI- can woman remains firm in her anc anco aneo to comfortable walking skirts which well escape tho the ground Plaits however are use used sparingly Tho The fashionable tailors are making gored and circular skirts skins rather than plaited I ones A clever combination of broadcloth and velvet elvet Is seen scon In n illustration D D. D This skirt does not COme quite to too the l ground but It cannot truthfully be called short It Is 19 o of elephant gray broadcloth with velvet which forms the tho sole trimming trimming trimming trim trim- ming of ot a n. little darker shade Big Dig buttons covered with the the coat in an original fashion and are arc aroused used on the tho skirt Perhaps you OU have a perfect Jewel of a n. dressmaker er who comes to the house to make malte your gowns nn and whoso whose identity you carefully conceal from all an your friends They might ste steal l her If Ir you have I am sure ure you ou will he be interested in- in In tho the gown marked A A for forIt forIt forit It Is Iff quito po possible to have havo It made In the house at al a n. moderate cost One of or the tho striped shadow striped ow-striped broadcloths broad broad- cloths might be bo chosen for or It IL Velvet et of the same shade for tho the and velvet covered buttons and rind the yoke und and collar of or lace In insertion with plisse r ruffles littles of or lawn form the trimming trimming If you oU are content with linings with a skirt ruffle rume of taffeta tho the gown can cun be made for j. j and antI and It I Is rt really 1 n a very good model The The- skin side button hullon- buttoning lag ing In of tho the skirt i is one of the new now effects effects effects ef ef- ef- ef efI I t of tho the season More elaborate In n effect and yet simple In l' l reality 1 Is the gown sown lettered C C. C It is a mOt model 1 of oC tho the Malson and Is made of panne cloth In Copenhagen gen 1 blue luc The gown is cut on purely princess prInce 5 lines and fastens in front under one ono of the rows of buttons It Is worn over o an of lace which forms the tho long IonS clos fitting close sleeves oves and antI appears In the form of a a. yoke yoko at nt atthe atthe the tho n neck ck A pattern made of sou sou- tache tacho 1 braid rahl outlines the low-cut low armholes armholes arm- arm holes and 1 braid ral ornaments Mangle down tho the front of tho the corsage I saw Mrs John Jacob Astor warIng wearing wearing wear war ing a very well veil cut suit of or blue lue cloth the other day daY so so well cut it was that you yon hardly noticed Its extreme simplicity the tho effect of the tho whole was wasO wasso wasso so O good oo The Tho skirt was very 1011 long and trail trall- In ing It touched the ground lound In front and antI lay Jay on it on the sides Ides and in tho the back it spread ad Into quite judo a re respectable re- re train There was WUi a seam directly up the front of the skirt so soI soI soI I think it Il must have boon been a circular model And It hung in such mch very ery firm film and decided folds that it gave the impression slon of ot being substantially lined It had hall no trimming whatever The coat was charming Made on tho the cutaway style stylo it fastened over the bust and then sloped away abrupt abrupt- abruptly l ly into Jon long tails In ht the hack back There was wall tho the most effective little waistcoat of or heavy w write white silk Bilk which had a piping piping- of black inside a narrower narrow arrow er or line of white The sleeves wore were only three-quarter three length and ended in turned back backI f IV l' l V. V A A A S Shadow h had i d o 0 ov v Striped Broad Broadcloth cloth in Shadow Shades n of Brown rown patio on ml a t Simple Model 1 od 1 B B-A B A Suit of or Ko Cu Col e-Col- e Cloth CloU Trimmed Trim oil med Will Black Satin f and nul While hll h. h C-A C I Princess I I- II I 11 nee C C M S Gown Clown of nl Copen Copen- Copenhagen ha hagen lI hue Is Js Worn Vorn a aI i Juc Un- Un I r I T D Gray Broadcloth Velvet of or a ev Ct Tone Are Arc Cleverly Cleverly Cle Cle- verly in This Coal HIli and I Skirt Tho E K T ho Short Short- blue Lino in III the tho luck Back Is Km- Km in ill Till Coat of Mole Mole- Colored Cloth it F F 1 A Very Up-to- Up Date Coat Coal and h Skirt of or Blue Bluet Broadcloth Wom by try Sirs Mrs John dohn Ja- Ja enli vol AMor I m J choux of or velvet with equal success In some soma elaborate coats of or velvet Intended Intend Intend- ed for reception or ot evening wear I have havo seen them apparently fastened d 1 with rosettes of or l finely nely plaited l lace L' L centered with rhinestone 1 u n button al- al vr 1 d 1 it 14 f 1 II Ih I tJI 1 1 r iJ IJ J o Ii i fH f Z I II f g Ii n w F r I 1 W i I t r 1 h 1 f 4 t II 1 ir 5 c lr j t I r L. L f I h t I III I I r L. L r l 1 I H mr I d Ji I r i 11 4 I h r f II I W p I a r I j E EI El W lf T il J JI I l I I I r lb rM u 4 r 1 I lt L 2 II I I 14 I 1 I T V nr III I i I r Oil I LIny I II t 11 I I I l I l IJ I I C k I i I I II I 11 r e 1 If I I Ilp I I Ill 1 II r p rA r Km r m feSh fT i II r l I t I I I III P I I I It C 11 rl r I tl I i r I ll I I rIl 11 ill r I ta r I I y I I 4 I m i s i-i i i l RF a is Mi Ir mm h I I t t tI I r y I dWI R r 1 I f rl rr t i t- t Ih Jrr l ti y r Sr t Ii I h I I I p I II I I f rJ l lh Ii r 1 l lY I h i h J 1 I I i r 1 11 Y x l 4 L 3 if i fa 9 I Id i 8 4 I d fI W ji I l lI I I r r I y I I Ir 1 t I d r i I S. S I I y 1 it I I I r A r li I bl blit I h iI t 1 d t. t black satin cuffs edged with Just a aUna aline aline line Una of oC white on either side Narrow alrow of oC lace lac appeared below the thc cuff curt It seemed stran strange c to see rosettes of or satin on such an e essentially tailor tailor- made mode suit but hut the tho fastening of at th the coat was mado under two rosettes o of or black satin And by the wa way the tho fastening of ot otones otone's ones one's coat is IR quite a matter of ones one's OWn fanc fancy this thIH this year While many large e and elaborate and often oHen expensive buttons t tt ns are used tho the fastening may maybe maybe maybe be made marte under ender rosettes of or satin or orf f 4 i though of course these only served to conceal the tho practical hoof hoor and e eye c The waistcoats this year are aro Indeed things of beauty Jon English women have always alwag had a penchant for waistcoats waistcoat but they are ure usually of or tho the s severely masculine order made mado of heavy flannels flannels flannels flan flan- nels and anti buttoned with large practical bono bone buttons These the they wear with stiff linen lineal collars conal's and mannish ties tres under strict strictly tailor mado clothes clothe But In the waistcoat of oC today you OU mn may express a all the tho frivolity your f fern fern- m- m mine soul delights In Made lado of or silt and satin aUn of ot velvet and of or softest kid 1 1 is- is thoy thop are embroidered in designs do- do signs and rich colorings They are arc ornamented with gold and silver and fastened wi with 11 Jeweled buttons Some waistcoats of 01 satin beautified with the dainty ribbon work worl wo We have havo become familiar with on pin cushion cushions and satin J jewel wel ho hoe boxes tes are arc dells delightfully quaint and tho the days daB of or lace mulled sleeves os and antl patches Toast boast moro more than more than ont onA aL r bo an un outer vest of or orel el velvet t under which I is j Seen Feen cen a satin waistcoat which in turn almost but not quite conceals one ono of or lic lace laco Oftentimes a a. waistcoat adds a n. touch of or color to an otherwise e somber gown own And AntI It Is a won wonderful return for fOl a slight tight expense for a bit of oC effectively colored brocade de or embroidered c or hla braided satin used as a 3 C vest t gives chic to a gown which might otherwise pass as aM quito ordinary Then too there Is a n. chance to add ade adda aden a n touch of or your most becoming color color color- sometimes of too pale a a. shade to be he employed in the whole gown Da Do not be ho afraid of contrast conta In color if you have havo a good color sense for In conI contrast contrast con con- I often lies distinction There has been an effort made by some of oC the tho tailors and dressmakers dressmakers dress dress- makers to m make the very high turned d up collars Of course they thoy carry earn out the tho detail of the costumes to which so man many ot of the French creators of modes seem eem to have havea a present leaning But the high h unbroken unbroken un un- un- un I broken en line with the rest of the coat coatis is universally Uy unbecoming a a bit of white lace next the face has such a softening effect So I 1 doubt if wo we shall shaH see man many of these straight collars collars collars col col- lars worn on this this side side of oi the tho water I hear that in Paris the Jabot ot of lace and lawn becomes larger and her lier each day dar Jabots certainly have ha havea a n. charmingly feminine touch We Ve arall ar are all making them industriously in our leisure moments dividing our time between between between be be- tween dainty hemstitching and minute whipping and rolling on lawn ruf- ruf lles Hes and knitting gorgeously I colored silks Into ties for Cor our brothers and husbands and men friends T Hint to Housekeeper cp r A penny spent on a receipt file filo will often orten save save pounds in litigation Judge J Emden in Reynolds's Newspaper l I Ji Ith j 5 I t 4 M iJ I I S. S Y u 4 3 z t I kya i yua yu 1 a J I T I 11 i II i I J S 1 J 1 7 A j 5 y E 1 T. T I 3 l S j |