Show r. r 7 f l t il A Tn N. N r cp i J f 7 1 f 1 w 1 rh r s i c 1 h f I rAfi 1 IA 1 I II IV If r Dl I A Y I Iy h. h 1 i w L t 1 N. N h. h L p pd t s Jf 1 PJ fh 1 k I I J R i i tj I I I f f I r tl 11 r lt r v I J d 1 Q I II q s nT f I 1 s. s 4 L v Jf C o I 1 0 j J j f 1 I y I 0 I IL INI u V c 0 0 y Y 44 t IV r 1 I i j r f I I v d r J.- J. I R V I I fA pt I I I l 1 S. S n r a t if- if t v II 1 I y fJ S 1 r n 1 L 4 41 1 1 u. u 0 I I I it 1 0 c II l tt ua Ii po 71 r y 1 S E t. t j 3 ri gl I 11 i- i r 7 e Yi do e r Po f i y f Z WI l fJ t- t t c. c f I a ro F t I I J 1 iJ R I. I A 1 4 k I r r rI i I 4 q K Kt p I I u iii i tr 1 h l o t 6 f I i c OF i JL i rf I E ng tile the l Keynote of nf the tile New I c Sump Velvets Fir Q FIJO O O Feather I ly I r f J lidded lJ t d 1 S 11 nI J I Ort l n tyl iel er lJ Kovers r Vor vc r 1 I C i I AnI 1 11 I nn I x ii a I I L U A of fl Jr- Jr z JA JAst r rt t st II lou J lI l Cf II IIi r. r i Z t ml Hh r tuil From 1 tho of j lC b a 0 1 H J u I Il It will 1 r require c a pue purse pune e with a goodly lining awing of or currency and ond ondel very el clastic strings I Indeed Cc in order 01 lo tu h be gowned in tile the first flight of fashion for 01 the thc social season ea n Just opening All tho t. t small mall economics economies of dress s seem to lo be t e swept t to lo one side an 1 era CIa of cx alance and elaboration has ha Queued up in their stead steal t it teems seems as though the tho makers mt ot it tho tiro ii mode ide had exerted their diet ingenuity to lo the tile e end enel of seeing just how haw mu much moat h material th they y could artistically JJ I to t the fashioning of or a gown sown and than e ket ct their theil wits wil to work to devise IMe ways waif f. f j and and- this thiN of I. I I means whereby excess ex-celiS p. w could be must t u i But and But and lIel hc here r Is where the c unskilled u or Inexperienced c dr dressmaker rr will tweet meet her Waterloo the the goal oal of r all nil this elaboration and anel extravagance extravagances I is s an tut appearance ance of simplicity Un tn- Under tier tel no circumstances circumstance must the gown I so ISO fashioned and trimmed appear appeal to tobe tou tol l be he c overloaded Q with decoration Rather u must it appear as though the tho trimming trimming trim trim- ming ruing scheme were quite an accident und and that the happy hOlp result was merely meroy a clever cr thought ht upon tho the part of the V dc designer nel ls The rhe velvet gown 1 is really the acme I j of sumptuous elegance when fashioned ash fash coned after the accepted mode mode- Even E the less expensive lve and those are are arc delightfully soft and artistic artistic ar ar- in coloring this season with the additional charm of proving pro absolutely absolute- absolute I ly fast In tint and guaranteed not nol to rub lub off on delicate gloves glo or laces laces laces- will serve beautifully beautiful as a back background for elaborate trimming devices that thai alC arc really the making making- of ot the frock flock The same rome sheer and almost almo t limp weaves that the manufacturers presented pre pre- rented u us with last season are arc still r quite tho the accepted thin thing In spite of the fact that most of the new silks are nrc all of th them m much less than J h heretofore While stiffness is ts hardly i f the thc word to apply appl to lo those silken fabrics fab Cab Tics there Is nevertheless mc more rc bod body and tend more moro stability to the weave than Lining Lining- last Jast seasons season's goods presented such uch as the taffetas silks and the tho silk and then linen mixtures that appear so 20 often In Imported arc are all ot of them of such quality as to afford a goodly support to the sh sheer cr material that still rules for Cor the outer drew dress While the thc woman of fash fashion Ion will accept accept ac ao- the thc dictum anent the now new skirt length with Its many inches sweeping th the floor her sister I ter of or more moderate means means- will doubtless rebel relit against a a vc vogue uc that lessens e the service foer of a gown and mak makes 8 for Increased cleans cleans- cleansing Jog ing bills Note None the less the best I I r dressmakers are arc insisting upon quite a t marked to frocks rocks of or a a. formal or oi semi-formal semi Intent and It Is only in n the plain tailor made t that goes goese to and to m meeting that the i e As 5 short hort skirt I is even Em tolerated though to tc emphasize the difference there thero II is tulle quite a tendency on of the part tart I tv a tho the tailor to cut this skirt even evon of oj trifle trine shorter than heretofore although I In foot fool doubtless the very en smart styles tlell little than a have more upon this que question A da dainty nty cutt cut cutto silken hosiery ate arc t t to ma a shoe shoe-ancl smart skirt skin walking the new where s ry tt here ft nee i concerned since Ince the ankle lather I i I It that guiles guides instep is the focus the t thuu t h un ell the when deciding upon tJ tint tailor i the pa padded ed cm- cm 11 Ish crochet and that the Irish P II h perfection arc alc e charm- charm su make m ke e to colleen the thc t appropriate find sich such upon favor or abroad that poplins that poplins poplin those a arc are e In ul in li high tn dinner gowns For and the tho slightly rl d lH esteem sheen n i lustrous S with its ll It ic f-ic fice f fl V loWer embroidery to In t tup the theof Ie both lace ani and up I e utmost I IThe e of or the tho elaboration The tine Nap Napoleon Na- Na a- a p plod the he time when male make France to 0 wa working center of oC the tho world time the r 01 l i 7 eT r 0 I r r GA Y Il- Il 1 Y I Li f. f 40 td J t 1 t i t J 1 8 K r ij- ij Ja 1 r 4 r riV iV 1 wr s I E t f t t 1 Jc z Z X TT l Q O T has shown the wonderful ul prescience of or thu the C Corporal In this respect respect- I makes maRes itself much felt Celt in the thc present plesent fashions Then richness tho the richness richness rich rich- ness of a n. deliberate extravagance was was was' the the foundation from which the dressmaker dressmaker dress dress- mali maker I worl worked cd and no amount of tolland tolland toll toU and trou trouble to to le-to to say nothing of was was spared pared to make moke the toilette of i ithe the elegante of that period a marvel I of artistic dressing I Those slime same S JIle effects prevail to today clay Inthe In Inthe I Ithe the gowns that the best hest makers of i Par Paris Is are turning out r for favored I clients Just at the tho present writing i there are arc few plays playa o of a period as as they term dramas of or historic rathor rather I Ithan than contemporary con scenes on tho the I boards in Paris and hence the gowns o ns displayed nightly by leading lights of the tho stage may well bo ho taken laken U as guides to lo i the he modes current and to come I Jacket bodices arc making a strong laid bill for fOi favor tavor and nn since they afford a a. charming chance for tor the most lavish h elaboration the reason for th their acceptance ac- ac acceptance ac ue- Is not lint four far to seek seel nor hard to lo find The best st of tho those present frivolous little that arc tacked lacked on at almost any point below the bust and that flare Oare smartly out from the bod body Quite Quilt as often as not those little s' s ire are continued inthe In Inthe Inthe the bac back and extended Into effects effects- Where here trio tho gown Is Intended merely for fOl afternoon wear weal those are left letl plain merely being heing lined with some dainty of a harmonizing tint with perhaps l a piping along alons- the edge But when adapted to a frock of formal intent the back bak la is cascaded cas wil with plisse chiffon orlace or 01 orlace embroideries of or lace Ilace and or 01 handwork are ale posed In their centers Entirely dependent upon the height and and- carriage c of or tho the w wearer are e-are l' l Is the tIle length th of the back of or those charming coats coat or jackets or bodices or whatever whatever what what- ever vel one ono chooses to lo call them rheyma They rhey may ma reach quite to the time hem of the the dons Jon skirt ski t or they may moy cm end i of aard below helow the I at some omo quarter a a. yard ard line lIna Just JURt whatever Will prove pro I most becoming IK tl correct In the reaching out after extravagant extravagant I gant el elaboration h the designer of at today I maker makua use of or h everything that ma may possibly be turned to dressy account ac ac- I count Ostrich feathers and I appear in what might formerly be I considered queer que l' l connections For FOl example ex- ex ex example oX-I oX ample the e of a fluffy flurry frock In to white I Is defined with a n. band bund I of the palest t blue fl this brou brought ht down do in a Ll bias strap to end I in the We deep swathed w th d of pale blur blue Latin I Each one of the thA four foUl I fluffy fluff flounces on th tin skirt disclose a u similar bor border er a little tittle spray that stands stanch up after the order of a n hussar plume I is stu stuck k In the colf coiffure ure and the thu fluttering fan Jan is altogether of ot pale blue ostrich and m combined while hll ul of leo cs there are arc mere lyre tart a fiet ul blue e ostrich on od UI each luch shoulder Fur s are I scheduled 1 to appear appear appear ap ap- apI I pear on run bath cloth cluth and ancl velvet gowns and j it Is hi no uncommon I thing lhing to lo rune run s s s mo models lor tor owning ling eur Ial In I which white satin and sables pale poli pink and beaver brown spangles am and mink mInI are cleverly contrasted the heavy fur making making- the gown the wearer I the entire mise en t. t n scene Ill In Illi li i which it is worn take on a an aspect of added added- luxury and extravagance In the resurrection df of f the revor rever as ns a 0 corsage accessory there opens up afield a 0 field for clo elaboration that the clevor clever trimmer is not going to overlook All Al sorts of trimming schemes are possible possible ble on those whether they be used singly br de in over lapping sets l Embroideries Em Em- m- m Iles lace al lovers allover insertions edgings aid all aU find adequate application on the rever rover while as aR for tor the vest or 01 waistcoat II It it may moy be as simply severe ere or 01 as elaborately elaborately elaborately extravagant t as the designer choose to m mOte make Je It Buttons avid arid buckles buckle's form another item Item of exp expense nse that cannot well be avoided where the later modes mode arc are followed All AU sorts of ot extravagances e are ale possible here hete from the thc plain horn button bullon that decorates decorates' the he made tailor up to the elaborately cut and Jeweled disc that appears on the smart dinner or or 01 bridge coat The artist metal Worker this Is a field fold of tf design which many women woman have taken up and found exceedingly profitable dis dis displays plays the most fetching effects and whore cost COlt is not a consideration some b beautiful results can be achieved In their use on coat or gown own Beaded buttons displaying Dresden designs ns wrought out In natural colorings and the Ur tiniest beads are ole a smart fad of ot th the moment and they seem equally equall appropriate upon almost any fabric J r I t r. r 9 d' d M p T i S' S I I 1 I lurr I-lurr Effects 1 in O l ur t and lIra tt CI S Hf L Ste Stole ln and Pc p 1 to to Meet t Bt lIe IJo- tt t 5 fetching dj Little Lit lilt 1 tic lie duff Muffs Muffs' Tint Conceal t- t Cum vc lit me ml Clever Hats limit Favor Pa r TI Tl I Felt Felt I nil lilt t 1 lip aux Arc to Us Be lie I Highly I I h t The rhe toilette for the street whether h fur for II the aIlIa u or UIO Uio tho PI promenade le I Is IsI inot t i I not considered complete tC until b I one in u j I or 1 another of or tho those 6 f fetching fluffy Ill Ill- lit lie nothings that the tc la terms i 1 lt tr r l' tour lour d do dC cou really and nud literally i round jund the neck has be been n careful careful- ale ulI ul- ul Y 1 I 1 my ly posed pored over oyer the shoulders and the tho bands thrust carelessly Int Into hub a frivol frivol- t l L LIo looking bs Io mutt mull to match mutch Just a rot few short weeks ago the out hut toilette seemed complete enough no 1 h without this fetching addition b but t KO tm 1 quickly i Is the tho eyo 0 educated to In all nil that I. I novel nO nUll anti attractive In fashion that thal 1 LOW how the figure seen lacking In s slime tioma me J JI J I 1 I fi until until ono or of another of those thole i charming but expensive ho little nothings 1 t l l- added 1 That this ta to to tn be bt a a sear sea sea- I r a I tr th h.- h. i f not opt r v r i I a 1 i shadow II of a u a n ln t O J nl n r l ul vin in I f l 1 J O no JI V VI I 1 1 d d cI i i t p i j I r t IJ X effect I I J J t of Ay A. A u usual JI tl Wu tto m hll have been u It trifle slues II In III nd adopt pt It- It Iten Jt OIl en- enel el ei ally on this his side dc of oC t he ho writer wl but but bur it vogue once once- started stu It Is a n JH raI and enthusiastic acceptance Some SO pretty prett little c rny ts arc azo shown o n III Ml Ihl that follows the thc very cry sanio same de- de as Dg the best beat b l furriers are arc putting LIth a th In sable mink and ermine The Tho in hand knot knot m Is aped t and i d sewn on and the thc other end of the scarf Is slipped i through this thi a fancy pin serving to toI I hold it fastened The Tho shaped Hat ostrich feather band hat that mal makes cs such sucha 11 n a frilly Crilly framing rain log for forc or 01 c coat at collar oJ a l' l and cuffs takes takes' on ou the thc most charming hues In Its new t presen presen- ten ten- tation All 11 of oC th those e cl elusive c nuance of the color calt earth card which thigh h one at their theil best hest In velvets and faced broad broad- of C the chiffon variety arc are faithfully faith faith- rull fully in the Hat flit ostrich II piece lC They really take on un u a semblance of or a plume of exquisite quality qualify just J laid Hat flat on tIe lle collar mId aid pinned Hl alou III the time C ci rr but a l glance at at the time revere lV e sidle side shows a cm fully padded ribbon band which the intone quill quilland quilland and all is 15 deftly sewn and ostrich make muke an an anes anos us- us r effective combination Some S Sine one sees gees the ostrich Hues flues fringed etl im In at Intervals in tit a a. stole stoic snaking making a fringed line acro across tho wl th I Tassels elg out tipped lipped j f of It la of ol mara ure lej with ostrich and au fluffy and fluffy nutt little lItte halls balls of J the e 1 strung nn on em a silver cord the ore much used as a finish J One sees all of uC the delicate tints In four and live lira strand tales stoles tb that t are arc charming to throw around ti Ihn q should Bould Boulders lH l 1 ers with an evening frock When hen henI heavy la lace such h us as Irl Irish h I the Iri h QI the Hus- Hus filan guipures is used b ii the strands an nn airy airs nil effect is attained altane that fall fail to 10 charm In furs with the tho fail fad for fo folI light lI ht colors an t an l delicate tints there thero Is Js bound to tu tobe tobe tube be much white while fox ox polar bear bem ermine chinchilla aJI the gm gray used In white there thero are ale some charming charmin effects Lon Long stoles lole und and that are pointed almost to the tha waistline waist waist- line hue In the back and raid cross croS over u tho the loft loll side in ht the the front front Ilont to find a ti ta fastenIng fastening fasten fasten- ing and charming charn round boas boaK dotted with little made animal heads head arc are extremely modish for or young youn folks In III white fox they are arC especially clay effective dITl the soft long fur proving a beautiful frame flame for the face Cace In ermine find and chinchilla and tho shorter hatred furs dainty to a |