Show t arAm v i Hauling a Cask Cuk of Wins Wine to Market I Prepares by br the National i Society D. D C C. O Portugal there Is no nomore nomore I IN more fascinating and at the IIII same some sometime time no na more logical method than thon to begin at the northern border and find work southward through the entire entire en eo- tire length of 0 the country In this northland noble Iberian rl l rivers rs flow now westward to ta the Atlantic There Is Isone Isone isone one which the Spaniards call the lIua Minot the Portuguese the lInha The International bridge which spans It unites preen green In northwest Spain with northern northernmost mast Portugal arlu al On the Spanish side of the river lies hies the gray fortress town of Tuy frowning across upon Its Portuguese ese neighbor Valenca do da Minho At whose crumbling battlements crown the hull hill One slips across the bridge b by train or automobile In these prosaic days but Tuy and Valenca belong to ta a 1 turbulent turbulent tur bulent age oge of border warfare of hard valiant all ant men of blades dripping blood Leaving VIgo Spain at ot noon the traveler can con reach Oporto Portugal's second largest city at six the same sume evening but It Is well welt to ta break the Journey at Vianna do Castello Castello Cas- Cas tello Braga and four Interesting Interesting interesting In In- historic towns Although the need of frontier garrisons gar Is past Valenca still sUIl Is a military military mili mili- tary post lost Medieval In aspect hidden behind great greut ramparts the old warnor warrior war nor town surmounts a n hill hili high above the Over Oer the moat moal through the tunnel and up un the narrow windIng winding wind wind- Ing streets ones one's automobile honks warning swarms of children cats cots and ond chickens to ta run to safety architecture duffers differs from that of Spanish Tuy across the way Portuguese houses run to granite painted white while with trimmings s In the natural hue to blue and white glazed wall tiles the IIII manufacture of which Is a n national Industry Inherited from the Moors Leaving the automobile for the milway railway rail mil way wOY the traveler finds the conches on local trains not nut always so clean and ond comfortable as ns those e In Spain the flue customs and ond train guards i less Ii's neatly garbed the paper currency In exchanging exchanging ex u. changing Spanish pesetas for nr Portuguese geese guese escudos more Hut these are minor details The people are hospitable and courteous The he customs guard even eln puts Pili on cn clean white cotton rolton cloves before examining ones one's I Garden c e Portugal The garden of Portugal liS as the Portuguese cull call their loel lovely evergreen northern country Is nearly ns liS rich richIn richin In us as California II III I F. Even Eten tn I the hI stations s lire are embowered In red 1111 and ond pink rambler r roses ro rs There TheIl are picturesque mills mlis Is with wIlh huge huse water waterwheels waterwheels wheels the clear streams and every rry fern patch of cultivated cultivated ground Is 11 so carefully l tended that t not a blade e of grass seems out of place Trellised sK six feet shove above the ground on tall lull granite po I IS s are orp sturdy vines whose grapes crape yield the tart red wine rIP of this the region 1111 I The railway nil follows s the river to the ocean und and then lieu parallels the Atlantic MI At M Inns lantic he I The fhe iH peasants of the Ilip north differ It little In blood and from tram their unchain Hn neighbors Hoth Both speak more or le I less d II the Ihl same sinie language the Ihl dialect tech of the Ihl Spanish hi being lug classed ns as Portuguese a tongue less changed than II from Ih the Latin current lt I when Roars Home ruled tuft the Peninsula but buth h hv ninny contacts fettle Celtic I Arable Amble and aboriginal Iri I among theta them It hll has even certain af of Unities with the Ihl French Although II literate these northern peasants are Industrious Independent und the I own their laud land I Alon- Alon the Hilt well paved tree road read clogs a II man In wooden soled sIn I es carrying a long goad to urge on fin 0 a pair of If huge colored buff oxen XIII I with wILlI widespread curving horns In Portugal 1011 oxen are yoked from froni the flue i shoulders In Instead of from the horns I us liS Is the custom In Spain The curt with 1111 Its II creaking wooden O wheels t 1 Is Isan isan J I an Rn archaic tv tIe e. e In a 1 scar nearby field neld a II barefoot worn an Rn with tucked lucked u up skirt un an orange colored lured handkerchief about her head has hus dropped her IlIr hoe hilt ami Is adjusting a protective straw carpe to lo a conical haystack Near her lilt little It vine covered home holUP Is IR a huge corn bin raised on four fur stone posts Its lIs thatched roof root surmounted by u a ru eru s. ss s. s second ornament und and by hI a peculiar Jo to o the region an HII student ancient emblem of fertility Wheat hut oats RUe and rye re are cultivated here The palatable dark clark peasant bread Is II made trout from corn curs cornand cornand and oatmeal Vi Vianna Once a Cusy Busy Port At AI Vianna do Ill Castello the Lima river riv er tr meets the sea Id ea The town was very cowl 1 liP op p the map In lu the da daa II a when ailing sailing croft craft ruled the waves 0 Here nere in 10 n the Twelfth century English Crusaders Cru Cru- landed to aid aM the Portuguese In n expelling the Moors tie the beginning of the Portuguese British alliance I rom from rom here I the he mellow wine culled coiled port lort was a first shipped to England After Vasco da Cams Gama had opened the he sea route to ta India there was a u risk brisk traffic between Vianna Fianna and the ports lorts of Flanders spices silks slips and I last Kast being porcelains from the Far exchanged for tor manufactured articles It t was then that the art of Flemish Ince ace making was brought ht to ta the wives and ond daughters of af the Portuguese fishermen fish ermen who oho still make pillow lace From Vianna Ianna ships sailed For Far West to the banks banIs oft off Newfoundland to ta bring back bock dried cod cad which In spite of all 1 the fresh fish In Portuguese waters waters wa has ever eer since been a staple article article ar ar- of diet Portuguese fishing boats boots still make the long loog transatlantic voyage voy voyage age for cod cad The hotels of the Minho are ore a delightful de de- surprise Little known to ta an any any foreigners save a few British they ore are maintained throughout the year for far a short summer season when althe all l the fashionables of central and an southern south era ern Portugal migrate like ke birds to ta the tile cool green North In June the hotel season hD has not opened and a visitor nt at that time Is likely to be the only guest g In the hotel on an Santa Lucia hill bill overlooking old Vianna Ionna Few views surpass the one ane from Santa Lucia those Lucia those from fram the heights above e Rio RIll de Janeiro and Funchal perhaps both perhaps both In speaking Portuguese-speaking lands finds lies a terrace ablaze with flowers beyond a forest of pines chestnuts and mimosas In golden bloom Canaries greenish In hue like hike those In the Azores sing In the trees Par Far below lies the city of or freshly pointed painted white walls willis and weather bent en terra cotta cotto roofs rants framed trained In 10 chrome- chrome green fields beside a 8 green blue sea In the harbor ore are red lateen sails of fishing boats bonts hOIU homeward word bound hound Looking up the valley ey one sees the theLima theLima Lima river ther winding among the hills ls hillson on whose slopes peaceful white while vil 1 ages nestle In the distance rise the purple urple mountains guarding the road to 10 Spain There are few sounds save sn the singing of or the birds to break the magic spell Romaria Is II Worth feeing One of the chief sights lu In Portugal Is the In summer O at the shrine of u Horn itom Jesus above Braga A pilgrimage und and un an outdoor holiday combined Is the a 8 very old Iberian In Institution whose roots are embedded In traditional 11 I pagan feasts The shrine of limn Item Jesus do Monte MOllte load Cond Jesus of the Mountain Is on ona onu a u wooded densely hill hili overlooking the town lown where pines lies chestnuts oaks onks cork oaks ouk sycamores und and other trees not lIot like these lul Indigenous to the country surround the great stone church hurch with Its outlying chapels and the three hotels holls which stand near It liy Inclined railway one une ascends the the- steep lelI hill hili whose slopes are ore beautified by bJ flowering shrubs The pilgrims trudge e up the long flight night of af stone steps leading to the church hundreds hundred of men women and ond children dressed In their lr very best carrying musical and baskets containing food Penitents ascend the steps on an their knees Conspicuous among the women are th those 1 from Vianna do da Castello who whose e ec c costume Is the must most colorful und and club orate Many Inny of them wear pendent gold earrings heavy guild gold Id necklaces hung with crucifixes and heart shaped heart shaped lockets set with precious stones stone Ox curls carls toll up the winding road roud I Ion on the fur far side of the IIII mountain with I barrels burels nt ut wine on wheels blankets i and cooking utensils for camping out VUI in the Ihl forest Following IlIg the religious service ten and solemn church procession there are three days I and nights of flu feasting singing dancing and fireworks tIre fire worKs with many skyrockets Here I the Ihl native songs of f the north are heard Romp some old some Improvised on the Ihl spot telling spot-telling telling of the happenings of 0 the IIII day Here ere the Celtic Ceille bagpipes shrill their loudest t und stud the viola guitar and tambourine accompany the ancient dance slow and sedate I 1 with movement of body arms an and bunds hands Some Sono of the woolen women at Horn Bom 1 Jesus lIs might hate t stepped from a Gro- Gro clan clun vase lIse |