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Show I The Sensible and Comfortable In Dress H New York, September 14. H With an amiableness as surprising H as it is sudden, Dame Fashion has in- H troduced the sensible in dress she has H done it more thoroughly, too, going H into every detail, than the most rigid H dress reformer could ever have hoped Hi for. The war, with its sobering influ- H ence, has done more at one stroke H; than could have been accomplished by H' years and years of arguments. The H' short, full skirt, the trim, dark tailored Hf suit, sparsely and smartly trimmed H hats, good, sensible, rather high, walk-It H LPjjff q &icCau B I I M A Frock of Taffeta and Crepe H Georgette H ing boots with straight heels, wash- Iable gloves and so on down to the last detail. All this has been brought ! about with no sacrifice of becoming- ness or chic. H Time was, not very long ago, when JM "sport clothes" were left, without a H moment of hesitation, to the ward- B' robes of the leisure class, who had H ( time for sports; nowadays, we find " "sport clothes" or in other words, com- H fortable, sensible clothes, in every H wardrobe. It is quite as exhilarating H -' as the walk itself to come down the M avenue any of these crisp, refreshing H mornings behind a maid or matron H, ' dressed for walking. All Paris walks H 8 in the Bois these days, you know, and K I so we might say all New York walks H ' on the avenue, unless we except those H; t who select the drive because of its Hj ' brisk river' breeze. Hj The smart suit of tweed cut Norfolk j j fashion, with short, pleated or circular H skirt, plenty of pockets both for use Hi'f and for chic; a small hat, heavy gloves, and heavy shoes, in tan or black, is a favored costume. Then there is the girl with sport skirt of corduroy, coat of vividly colored velours vel-ours with hat of the velours, and low heeled shoes of tan. Their stride has all the grace of movement of the athlete, ath-lete, not hampered by tight skirts, unsteady un-steady heels, or discomfort of any kind. Since the introduction of the shirtwaist, shirt-waist, ever so long ago, the separate skirt has had its own special niche in the well dressed woman's wardrobe; this season it promises to be even more useful than ever before. It is made moderately short, flares in the approved fashion, and is finished with a belt at the normal waistline or slightly above the normal. It is as conservative or as much trimmed as fancy dictates. Perfectly -plain, depending de-pending upon material and cut alone for effect, it is smart; trimmed with line after line of stiching and quantities quanti-ties of buttons, it is also smart in a different way. Chief among the pleasing novelties in the blouse line, we must place the blouse of plaided taffeta. The plaids or checks are not pronounced; colorings color-ings are soft, almost invisible, harmo nizing well with the suit of dark blue serge or gabardine. The green and A Tailored Dress of Serge and Taffeta. blue combinations are most popular although one sees also some attractive attrac-tive dull reds combined with blue or green. These blouses are especially suited to the tailored suit. The crepe de chilne blouse still .olds its own for suit wear, too, in fc pastel pink, yellow and lavender. UHMIHHHHHI The open collar is still worn, but among the newest and smartest of the fall and winter blouses one sees the high collar in its various forms. There is no doubt that the high collar is more becoming than the low one to the majority of women. To make a compromise with comfort, many of us will wear them high in back and open to below the curve of the throat in front. This style of collar has a softening, soft-ening, becoming effect especially attractive at-tractive with coat suits. For walking suits and skirts there is no more satisfactory material than tweed; this is being turned out in our American mills this season in some wonderfully attractive mixtures warm, light of weight and of excellent quality. The wool checks and plaids are effective too; there is quite a tendency this season to use the Glen Urquhart and the various other men's suiting plaids for women's suits and skirts; when carefully tailored the result re-sult is unusually smart as well as being be-ing the most practical. The use of leather for trimming the purely out-of-door suit is growing in favor; leather cuffs, belt and often collar, are features of some of the new suits. For those to whom this novelty appeals ap-peals there is the piping of siiede or kid in some soft harmonizing shade which may be applied to suit or frock fy even by those who make their own clothes. The modish woman this season leaves no loophole for criticism by those who Invariably scoff at fashion even if she lives up to the last letter let-ter in her street clothes. Most of us too will, because of these new fashions, fash-ions, join the out-of-door girl in her morning walk. |