Show tweeds are used for F fall ah winter solid colors and novelty goods featured for cool weather to contemplate the fabrics for full fail and winter Is to be introduced to the large family of tweeds this Is a group observes a fashion writer wilier in the new york times covering a wide i field of materials of inal infinite nite variety and a kaleidoscope of color all known by the one name it includes the woolens thick and warm as fur the sturdy homespun weaves and all the variants between to the light supple stuffs that lend themselves easily to graceful lines there are all of the traditional wool ends and wol seeds of britain and reproductions of the fruits of our native hand loonis looms and fine chepey weaves that are not easily distinguished from silks suggesting the original material of the name only tn in the printed pattern the rest res of the the story Is told tn in collections from It Blan chinni and the other fabric creators n broad and from the grent mills this side of the water and offer a sumptuous assortment of materials for evary type and style of dress and wrap not only in wool but in stilt silk velvet cotton the synthetic rubrics and many new and artistic in te era the domun ot of fi ishlon will be able to make her selection from froin a large assortment of materials from coatings to lace ince in woolens and wor seeds sports clothes command the attention because the frock and the fabric are to a popular phrase well married 1 I there are so many one beautiful weaves of every type of costume that some have already been accepted as staples for the stunning tailored suits that will be worn in town during the first frosty days the tweeds of solid color in varied weights are shown in light brilliant and somber hues these materials have had bad such quick response from the coutur leres that they are bling being used for the die greater number of models for the street treet fl and the demand for other than tado plain materials Is anticipated in a variety of tweeds that are classed as novelties these include a diversified collection of weaves entertainingly described an flecked all dubbed abbed shady streaked and cloudy effects they are made in self tones mixtures varl var colored pastels dark clark and light bl blendt endings and black and white dyed in late autumn shades these fabrics that are being used by some of the best parisian Parl dressmakers most recently jane regny suzanne talbot and molyneux are dyed died tn in the late into autumn shades of bronze green tomato red the new bronzo bronze browns heather purple red purple and dull gold tan some of these especially the browns tans and darker greens are shown in the more thickly woven tweeda tweeds the kind familiarly mili mill arly known as woolly tor for outdoor wear these ore are very appropriately called the shaggy tweeds being ensemble made of knitted crochet lae lace a now new cloth this season thick and rough of surface like those that have so long bein been associated with the sturdy scots and english sportsmen and women covert Is tweeds only rival and Is repenting repeating this season its initial success for voth both coats and suits some of the host best qualities are mixtures of indefinite design which have the effect of solid colors diagonals are arc considered to be good safe As aa to style and are made in rich t tans nas browns castor oxford and blue prays grays these diagonals are arc particularly particular il at in two colors or lb 1 n two shades of a 0 color one known as a barsan weave Is conein clear green blue and white while wah ih very side of the cloth smoothly woven vo th other with 1 a short tool bul soft nap the collection of novelty wool goods Is of greh e 11 1 ter er importance than to be consid considered erad among dinong the incidentals in the seasons jea sons fabrics the styled style 4 it in weaves are of interesting variety var varle lety most of them in two tones tone others in contrasting com colors in the heavier stuffs are knitted wool loco lace a rich combination of dahlia red and gold which tins has already bee been n shown in some new frocks built on the princess lines and because of its fancy weave and bright tones requires no tri trimming mining for frocks of this llila and sli similar nilar model are fine woolens to in smell dainty patterns of two colors in mixtures and mottled effects some lightweight woolens in tho the softer kinds of dress goods coutur leres are widely at variance between wool and silks and for these some attract attractive ivo compromises arp are of for some seasons wool clothes belonged exclusively to tailored gowns and coats and silks to more elaborate dress it Is quite otherwise this year and woolens fine and delicate as any of the she sheerest erest dress goods aro are being made lato into suits and frocks for wear at almost any daytime occasion wool crepes cerepes are especially interesting because causa of their soft texture and silky appearance made in a dressy quality half wool and half silk A very ali fia I 1 modish gown of satan featuring higher waistline uneven heill hemline ne dished wool material Is finely corded rep firm and smooth but lusterless and resembles poplin the genuine wool poplin differing slightly Is shown in all the latest colors and Is most successful in the weaves in which a thread of stilt silk or rayon la Is used this treatment Is an intriguing cloth of light blue woven with a fuzzy surface on a silvery ground of silver thread in each and all of these mixtures the designers have introduced original ideas weaving some of the materials to ap pear as a background to in lar far and others in horizontal stripes rather startling but obviously authentic are the crepea called tweeds printed la in a simulated tweed pattern but thin and with a finish that Is both supple and crisp these are offered in dark quiet colors and are printed la in two or three other shades or colors materials for tho the occasional dress of whatever styles are too many and too varied to be classi classified fled there are the chenille like deep faced cloths claths in stripes and ridges dots dashes circles blocks and cheeks checks in different weights and weaves for dresses or parts of the ensemble there are jerseys of of fine wool and wool and stilt silk in new variants plain stripes plaids and in woven and printed designs for dresses and blouses bloused in both plain and novel models and wool voiles and georg ettes that will be seen in grifor informal mal frocks of both flared bared and plaited tailored models wool flat crepe being urged wool flat crepe newest among the weaves Is similar to the weave in silk and Is being urged by the irn im porters A finely woven jersey of silk and wool Is in demand for one piece frocks suits blouses and jack ets for semiformal semi formal outfits suitable for wear any time of the year A three piece model illustrates the chic appearance and the utility of these materials plata plain colors are usual but some designs are done in modernistic styles with airplanes lightning and gw geometrical metrical motifs these are especially effective in black and white jersey all wool or silk bilk and wool la is the it accepted material for cardigans card igans and jumpers in ID plain colors with borders woven in two erthree or three gay colors or in the allover zigzag zig zigzag zig zag or some modernistic pattern some of the allover all over jerseys have a pattern to in silk stitched in machine crochet over the wool materials to bo be made into dresses tor for afternoon as we know it it ar ana sort of gambled gamble for formal went velvet Is having a sweeping vogue though the lacy woolens are are presented for the sort of frock or suit that way rony be worn with a hat furs and abad accas series for the street and indoors also als there are the crepes cerepes in new leaves anti and colors tie silks and gatins satins sati ns one ol of the two distinct novelties is Is a jacquard celanese taffeta if the pattern of small conventionalized lowers flowers and figures ligi ires scattered over the fabrie fabric being of open work in the handsomest of these pew new ta fretas two colors areti are used sed in u the n weaving caving to create tho the shot effect which Is a revival of an vogue i |