Show spring tig gowns are in in 0 great varl variety ety some women have it pen cliant for selecting tho the right tiling filing in ili clothes wid anil perfect genius for wearing well observes it fashion correspondent it lu the new york herald ono without tile other la IF n useless gift the experts do n largo share of the preliminary work in the first ali st instance but tho final decision rests with ille individual in tile matter of wearing clothes after the choice isonio Is once fiade tile careful attention to details ling has more than nine tenths to do with it reports ts front from parts of alie spring openings read very differently front from those of last season when 11 nearly early every house emphasized tile the filet that there would bo be very little change although putting forth n few tentative innovations this season the clin in ili the general silhouette as well as in tile the length of skirts are arc pronounced in serious vein that there Is a marked diversity of opinion la Is evident what could be more diametrically opposite thim the lie extremely simple tillieur eur and tho the repeated uso ilse of the oriental and evert even lace runlet dresses for afternoon in some of the houses the bolera jack jacket one of the most moat recent and possibly rather extreme tunic models with long vest of lingerie and peculiar gathered section in front Is shown hown and others incline to the chinese or indo chinese as it Is called a medium long cont coat of booso cut sometimes fastening nt at one side aide and always with a straight band collar inclines to oriental note luclle lucile inclines to this oriental note displaying coats and wraps ln in this manner for both day wear and for evening A china blue poplin suit she created has a trimming of chinese embroidery and it matched with a mandarin toque even in this collection one finds that there Is diversity diversify ver sity for thero there are also youthful designs in tailored suits stilts and dresses of lace for afternoon that haye baye beben dyed in dark tones to malto make them suitable and practical for day wear crowns and blacks are notable in theses these dresses straight dresses have circular flounces at the bottom and tunics that are ard long and glit are slashed nt at the sides to make walking possible as well as to show the slip of spine contrasting material in some sheath dresses which are also partially tunics tin an opening extends from the neckline at the back to tha horn hem nl allowing it ft foundation dress to contrast with the sheath it may also extend a few inches below alie upper tunic lecroix shows ninny brocka employing the rhader mute dills ns its a color sc these er are I 1 L in luces faces and in ili cromos and other dresses and costi costumes mies are revor teI to show ninny interesting trini adiong others mother of pearl sequins marit hall boil ciro ribbon brukas und and settle beads for evening fabrics dult dull rold gold cloth and copper tissue ore are mentioned ns as well V ell ns as the more silver cloth from these anio nd various sources lie impression RIOMS grows that olle add to the variety in ili the lio Nvard without necessarily subtracting find and that a few minor points in tile changing clan nang mode are fairly well established nn ill less the lie larger bouses will linao some ill asual surprises in ili store black prevails over brown black it Is quite certain will lo be 10 moro oro often seen scon in the now new models than brown although a few makers still insist on the superiority of the latter and ono one maker shows show costumes in tills this color shading the lie do balls through darough rolden brown to tile the palest crenin color it must bo be adi lilt ted with particular success ks the al alpacas pacas which are being well nio most interesting in the changeable weaves which are anro usi nilly handed or otherwise trimmed with plain material where nil all tile feather trimming Is to come front from alint tho the season predicts Is something that probably file he makers know more about than we ive do but bat clipped ostrich and clipped dove clovo feathers fent liers ore are shown chown on the model gowns eowna and ore are sure to be copied by both now new york and carls purls critics in shorter lengths continue to appear and dinall wraps or cents of varying lengths are almost certain to bo be shown with each dross dress for it seems important with dresses showing two contrasting tones tor simplify tile the costume by leaving the wrap match one or tile other of the fabrics one of the new york houses house exhibits a model which follows closely the lie lines of those featured feut mcd to in tile the early collections in paris it la Is a sheath of black chantilly chant cliant llly illy lace open in tie the buck back over a black satin foundation which shows a few incites inches at the hem the lace ts Is banded nil fill the way around with plain not net and tile the neckline Is banded in burnt orange satin tied with n bow and two long ends at the buck back at each side of the waistline the sheath Is attached to td the foundation giving a slightly bloused line shortened skirt more than rumor decidedly the shortened skirt lino Is more than a mere rumor for reports are current concerning those actually seen on paris streets ii discounting the fact that mannequins from the couturiers couturie rs are in the habit of wearing models in public to introduce them wo we are told that all of american skirts are much longer than those seen abroad ono one model was mentioned in particular as cut so short that it was only a few indies below the knee and the opinion was expressed at the same time that skirts worn here would not be in extremely tret nely exaggerated form asa As a matter of facts fact during the tha lost period of shortening skirts followed swiftly by longer ones the best dressed women were the ones who varied their skirt lengths the least possibly with tile tendency to vary the modes for afternoon and evening from those for morning and street wear there will be n variety of skirt lengths for the different hours this however would have to be our own interpretation of the mode for those of paris wake make are ns as short for evening nin g ns as at any other time it if not shorter |