Show ENSEMBLE IS MODE WITH PARIS WOMEN skull cap type of felt hat Is worn with more mora severe models L anglish suiting ensembles with tho the long redingote that hint was originated by and copied by everybody ilse else are in high favor in paris and the double breasted mannish coat Is im a frequent note observes a paris fashion lo 10 n writer in the now new york herald tribune every smart has it at t least ono one in tier her wardrobe and it appears decidedly attractive when worn with a smoked fox scarf tho color of which tones with the fabric of tile tho coat this fashion fas lilon relieves it from tho the too masculine aspect that Is given alvon by the fabric scarf or stock tie which lias has been adopted by so many women with the more severe type of en hemblo what la Is called the skull cap type of felt hat bat la Is chosen this Is it a tight fitting little toque with the brim cleverly rolled up mid and twisted to form a unique trimming an adaptation of tho the cloche with amusing little geometrical pieces of fit felt jutting out olit from the crown was patently inspired by agnes geometrically painted and jumpers that were tile the pioneers of the present fashion for painted fab ensemble of beige embroidered in blue red and gold threads I 1 bics these hills hats are frequently employed to carry out the necessary note of identity navy blue Is a favored hue hilo for the spring ensemble it Is often allied with bleu do de franco or one of the other ather lighter blues sometimes a fou foil hird of it a small pattern is used for ahe he dress and in this ease case the coat Is lined with the foulard and the dress Is often trimmed with the plain navy slue to match the cont coat another pop iliin ensemble fabric Is Ite denees nees painted jersey and kasha which promises to 0 o enjoy an increasing vogue with the approach of summer its theme theine borders on the bizarre and yet it Is so BO discreetly becoming that all paris Is talking about it and many of tho the smartest women have employed it as a foundation for their spring ensenia hies bles hasha grain de poudre reps L jersey covert cloth and the soft flexible tweeds that scotland produces were also prominent for the ensemble tile tho rare rage of the moment Is for every shade of what la Is known na as tho the violine range that la Is to say petunia lilac clematis purple and wine red besides a lovely new tint that paris calls septa sepia though it Is like the deepest mahogany red with a duah dash of wine color in it |