Show f ‘SALT ' HERALD-REPUBLICAN THE yLAKE CITY W"-' UTAH SUNDAY f J What V Dressed Well j ' ' I h'- Ci : 6j) JSZA 1914 - Women WIllW£ar I “ 20 SEPTEMBER 1 tt (CopyrightJ914 by the McClure NewsSyndicate) paper JL I BY "X? ' 1) sCtTm ‘ JI - l ’ -Jt tn- IVj X X O ' H® f ' ' 1 7TJ ’ — -J - - ' — - - CLOTHESjNOyONGER PRIMARY O INTEREST TO VELVET AT PARIS ' 1 ' - — 4 r? ’ Aug! which- works with the American hospital black evening gowns has 25— xPremet change in and to which has been given over few attemptsat them but she always of the fashionable Dr Joseph splashes a brilliant color world in the great PasteurInstitute to somewhereshe Dr Blakewell-known Turner as well as many take off the sombrenesstoward fashions is the most other When often American uses jet it is lavishly done minor event of the season or surgeons and and physiciansand trained nurses from in colors well 'as black- so the one has looked to Paris as Johns Hopkins hospital in Baltimore foundationas is merely background tlie one of all others that never ceased are enrolled here possible that this fashion for to Mme Wagner the wife of the head all be interested in what to "wear of the will be more followed in house of Drescoll which was Parisblack the only clothes that than are1 once Viennese and is now elsewhere but it is quite Belgian as safe to president of one branch of the Croixsay that conspicuous evening spoken of among the rich the fashionable went to this work gowns of any kind will not be given the luxurious Rouge immediately are hospital shirts airing ordered was Whether or not they open down the as soon as mobilization to design new fashions is little doubt that In America there back for the openingof her exactly how long theyshould be thereby Drecoll’s black lace house over satin doing her duty in two different will find much? favor gowns He also brings how the hem should be turned these getting ready ways for the wounded out the inevitable suit of baby’s lamb — are of more importancein a moment and giving employment to hundredsof Paris is never able to get through the than the 'width of skirt the length of her action a women many season without one' such costume of her wonderfullygood of a coat or the formationof a sleeve gowns are to the American buyer called by the people Red Cross fashions It need a civil lengineer to Once in a while thy4 listlessly listen would at the' Becauseof her sentiments the details of the new Che-ruit to the story of Callot’s’ time of she used a good deal and working opening coat that has become a of infantry red the color that the standard her showing of a varnished”evening rench :chasseurs-a-pied fashionThe long full their of peplum is use in up of godet sections and no one as the latest idea in’clothes So trousers' a blazing shade gown that one can ofmade these sections is large That they did the other-afternoon may at see as far as sight can go Surely? the give Mme idea of the bias ‘markings idea of protective you some coloration has not Waddington’s sewing class and to the gotten Into the rench seams make that run from army system! divert our minds from the ceaseless waist to hem 'Jjovely livening tVrapcontent with these there subject of the war 'Not four are we persuaded Mme from to six sections in Ise also designedthe cut tho famous hostess td tell 'us something AVagner :shape placed exactly wrap at the openings same under the shown of her life and the way in they begin in a pqint which her which was namerl after the Russian arm by Ivanoff It was evidence-ofa largo embroidered arrowmarked head and tnemorablebooks were written the cordial intentionsanother spread out to' the waistline are now Think how Interesting it was to hear welded between the two that countries in There’ is no revival of darts in the her that she never 'sat say forge of flame battle and sudden front' but' there are’ down to’ the down the write death It might have been a c’ar’s coronation bask that slightly' seams shape’ it at the without thinking of a dozen cloak so splendid sides other things to'do'ai4how is it in its bitterly she red and gold and blazing embroidery of this coat is fastened at had to fight Theleftfront down' the Impulse to do The idea in evening: wraps by the the side: invisibly at neck- and them how she coveredlher fingers with way is aJl toward the They waistline Unless the material is well rumptuous Ink and were designed just before mobilizationshaped it rebelled against the open in an constantly awkward and their creators had not heard a ‘these two task she set herself Jyet was manner between fastenings always whisperof war But in their medieval the art lies in edge keepingdhe side on driven on by the irresistible need of ex-" splendor arid bravery they are remi-niscent straightlinedown the left of the of pression how--the moment-site' dipped war panapoly of other figure days not of that dun gray: and dust the pen insfnk she saw the most enterThere is an extra collar with brown in which the soldiers of two this coat: rolling--affair' of satin or tainlng thinkhappen under the window countries have gone into death fur or velvet- that spreads-nearly: to to distract her? mindgrip And yet there are women who the armhole If it is unbecoming ‘a will say that they are quite It was most appropriate whitei-organdie collar must encouragingto find that be rolled for people here talkuneasily today the author ofthose enchanting and ot Attilaabove it but not over it holding: memoirs found' no and the Hune All fear of kind the Neck- Line 'to writing either not every has into fear of that the desire melted the enemy of rance to this changes the usual to write! battling against: the desire to what You see'how the stranger within its at’ the front of the neck It express oneself did not make for litcr-ary its citizens and opening gates should is unless failure: ever have the no longer one of it is hysteria from? over-reading it to be AVhen- one prefers the Her talk-' reminded me of what the Muchand wishes talking but it is long rolling line from Dr urness developing collar bone to celebrated Horactrdioward into serious to waist it is easy to of used to impress obtain by merely Philadelphia on us: menace the houseof the new manager that even the most facile and throwirback the coat penM brain needs the ginding stone of hard wore a brassard of Matthews The straight line across the base of he Croix-Rouge on his arm while new the neck in front is touch work to give it a When gowr exceedinglytrying some him on a bril’s were shown' and’ the in No woman should accept it without hadHan't 'speech made in the academy of gone to camp sent 'investigation many There are late designs for the autumn fashions many from to music when he received modify its harshness which in order that his ‘force 'would not be the waysindividual the University' of Pennsylvania he conmust out work fessed to the astonishing fact that he depleted it was natural that Therefore One of the simplestlinemethods of the brassard bad gone over that speech thirty times would make its appearance a withoutopening in the before making it the coat is drop twisted gowns PARIS 'attitude a -The Paris striking centuries : SEASON A 7 ? O IS ! HAND a i - It'-is ’ - - ni ! - rmnwnw— ' -Today - l- W but-she’continued ! ess i Y offered -Because ' - I understand i ’ : - - ' fur-ther' : ” t loveliest-evening - t " fan-wise' -r - i-will a -the - W M S at! -V 11 5 X S 711 f S i 'C I J" LILrpaiMrr-J H 'T J r --'--T'-JTLI HL T - h n X 4 h K ItlJ !4 Xf‘ T'Iir - 3 H 6 i MT 13 2-X- A tMW -wide a - -this 14 A J LptR— J’ aLu-'W Hl ji1 ‘T ilT A I 11 MOT J - I I j 11 ITIKSSi I I ' ' rf l - -royal-road -Changing -will a ri -do it- ’ f ' 1 j sAi v Tv — r— 1 ‘21 iwri v V-shaped ' -chance ifvAi - - self-controlAt a n-'i - tri -Premet tarf a '-I : - 4 t -light - managerwho s -one-congratulated a-degree I I c Wi ? tt r II i j r X ffii lltO £ raSWMlELft tlM I I ' r - obtaining V-shaped to a cravat of the best frocks that have of- satin-ribbon Gossip from beneath the wide been made for the Americans have this collar talked as8 sat arm badge whichis significant of service we the Sleeve around Mmeand Waddington as she rolled to rench The Classifying government' although the few bandages Americans who will 'wear it will their sleeves you women out of know them ran the sewing machines and connect it with its meaning It is placed That has been true maythe frocks of lady in a waiting to the frocks of blue serge and Duchess on generations And it is true again d’Orlcans and the Princess Ruspoli cut gabardine which have in no measure ofmany the frocks of' today out phlrts for the lost their prestige although Cheruit’s several iyears sleeves have or not These women charity are working for the use of vigognehas turned attention to been of especial importances Most of inu most important rance this weave them have been cut on kimono Uines-— the giving of employment to the to the This brassard- is not added and so they were and no sleeves at all out of and those sleeve but is a part of it It is women work whose merely that is they perhaps But this why were not to war All the money a strip of material placed the men have gotie between year we have a cut given goes for supplies for hospital part of the sleeve upperin andthe lower and dried sleeve to deal with again clothes that poor women can fashion make at much adoptedlast year sure the new so much a day getting a hot meal while for alteration in To be sleeves evening gowns making the short have But this absence the no of doing it Otherwise starvation sleeve longer sleeves is characteristic the kind of among women and children here will it Any embroiderymay be used: style as any as other sleeve detailof would rank next to the list of the wounded may be In brilliant red in blue or new to black and yellow and evening bodices are cut American women who are goingare although the inbe twoThe points that clasp on the shoulder single 'Red Cross is not allowedunless f$tayhere through whatevercomes these under a jeweled buckle’or clasp or working valiantly along lines one has special permissionto wear it artificial flower in or else they Canteens for soup arc being opened there is a design in that under an each off square and held over the arrondissement whore children displays a number of embroidery tiny scarlet are cutwith jeweled (ean get nourishment Mrt Daurencc crosses beddedin borders of dark blue ofshoulder bandsor strands Mrs Charles Carroll of Carroll-ton artificial flowers yellow Benet or Hdlth "Mrs the But in the daytime the sleeve Is a Wharton avorite Color Salmon Satin a Mrs wife of the regulationsleeve set into Watson’the regulation the Miss JIanet Scudder the sculp-tress Nearly all dressmakers are armhole And 'it is long1a and rather Mrs the wife of showing evening frocks of satin in a snug and usually reaches well over the Herman Jarjes the (the '’banker leading tone of pinkish yellow as salmon hand are among known Sometimes a bishop sleeve is ‘spirits who and It also in cloth used are giving thought comesin velvet one full the wrist gathered — into above this work nourlshentire of colors in little to vast of The range only these even-ing a Sometimes money It wristband is the light inent another proof of comprises too of course the kimono tones gowns excepting the few brilliant with which rance is of the bodice is followed thoroughness war that all charity red gowns and the black satin It has been broughtso handlingthis nearly to general direction of and lace toward which Drecoll has under the rench that it is too bad to discard it societies with the partiality shown so much entirely it is both or comfortable exception of the American ambulance Not many of the houses show all and attractive in Many Shirtsjind - M i" ' It ' was thus we - By employment -of one-piece aMniBIMKHnHUraUKQ' JK Z :- -wounded ! " - r t ' sk ' kil- ‘ IKXria - g jc a rsf Js -fir': 7 u : tn i- today X XShVll M-’Va' a n ” u v rives iha v-i Jf AKbO f L L 3 f -JTTT important riwii ' ” novelist' Americanrector 1 1 t iWMirt joll" i uaiwiitw fluHnnrwwo 1WA— T bi ’ — WW —Y MT-T 'll” HrrTfWT — J I J r OM - t 4 - KI a XWKM 33 rf’-JVt & r t WOli 1 1 t - a-' -I - Vcif-Y-? jtUj-nrt ‘h '"i i t 9' I fl ' IVA fl '-9 r ' ii WWW tL r Lr-Wh'x i fl G HWW2fcM!klL iM grMf MMcMgciig 'tLTj JninTTrTiiTTirnr' Mnnflrirr nrw iwiiLr- TJiirin JTJBTLWwnnrfl m ilTl ' ttirM-Ts 1 in-i 7 " a- 'irrL rr -tl r r X - 1 X wrfiiMfE’Cl r i B I Sf-y isr j '41r -r r - r s r: v r : arrirnrT i : v iwtr— - A ' J r' irv4vveer32r-r’’’ fc! c- — "u t l U ‘ i s £- i j ri va irnTTi—M v ‘in ’ — t perfection — I and I SA JI theconstituted iijet sl'M I £ arrangement mustJbe - i I: infantry ' - — Monkey Smartly j Combined I appearance Miles of Tulle in New Model Miles and miles of tulle must have in even the comparatively manipulated few modelsthat it has been the good fortune of Americans in Paris to see this summer Never has it been 1 y been -before :":4-— — f — -t : i® ' so well used and never before has been so lavishly used for long sleeves has The fashion called it into-use for although there are many velvet and satin sleeves long tight and on velvet or satin afternoon 9frocks there are tulle sleeves manyour long experience too And surely after arms the tulle sleeve is easier to wear than that of Three models of velvet a fabric much used by all the great dressmakers are shown here On the left is a plaid velvet coat with a blue cloth worn heavier fabric skirt In the center is a On the right is a black velvet tulle is especially likable green velvetsuit with flaring skirt and a military coat trimmed with black braid model by Moreover in the long Premet with a collar coat and sash ends of sable snug sleeve that reaches down-over the hand Do you remember the mousquetairesleeve that Gibson girls and other heroines of the paper at the wrists and a frill of tulle minutive telephones cotton thread on as many small-wooden velvet popular illustrators as well as their clocks andsmaller spikes scissors needle cases and other over the hands There is a sash about live prototypes wore grandfather’s several years the hips with two ends held at the back gilt ones tiny china teapots and steins accessories of ago? It was sewing Thereis a tray under two big sometimes made of lace I jet ornaments The little of chiffon It and equally little and a lower section both of sometimes was a long automobiles which are skirt consists of satin OR a foundation sleeve shirred from shoulder to the tulle bordered wtih three sewing machinesas well as many other filled with candy well wrapped so that with a of long knucklesof the hand and it was a interesting black velvet ribbon The bands emblems bqauty of it is harmless to cretonne part of an evening frock 4 them is that you can have each favor sleeve is highly When the candy- is gone the box re- Green Chiffon and Well theof newthistulle Stripes on Collar ur It is long it fits to the taste of the guest niains’inits Monkey suggestive capacity of work a most says that we are to go on toappropriate golfine chiffon and monkey and often it Is shirred from top to bottom whom it falls and yet have the charming reminderof the giver fur are it organdy neckwear and this way: But is an afternoon rather wearing all of similar sort combined in skirt Paris a soft than: an sleeve' further says that There is golfine foundation is of long evening Sometimes Roman green silk there is a plain foundationsleeve Safe Candlestick There a of stripes are to continue in favor They Concentrated Soups tunic of chiffon that tulle of bright blue or some gathered green other HIS is small brass or are combined in an interesting way substitute T1 convenience a leaves exposed fifteen inches of A VERY good for fresh JL about color over which Is shirred a isis JriL that the foundationskirt The tunic Is in a collar and cuff set a the home-table is the sort white enameled candlestick sleeve of black And the effect is There soup at with a fringe stands a little under five inches edged monkey fur really lovely flaring organdy collar with of soup" made from rolls or cubes Roman The long chiffon sleeves are It is in the evening when tulle really stripes printed in height and edged in colors across each of concentrated'-' soup the has for its standard a extract of with and the bodice is com-? finds its own' monkey Although there are no corner for safety cuffs kind that soldiers There posed of golfine and chiffon the There are deep some use on the case match box sleeves in new evening frocks is for the candle of the metal the same stripes runningdiagonally marchPea a: sheaf there are long floating masses of tulle with soup potato soup and It is caught1 at" the' shoulder and often across their corners other vegetable an especially suitable candlestick Silver Iace and Satin as well asinieat flavors clasped about each wrist with a band for traveling 'as theA in piece fastening “ sold the simply matches are ROCK one are and cook has the back is made with of velvet or a band of jewels Sometimes safely under-' the candle and the lingerie Clasp dissolve and attack to cook the contents of satin these tulle clouds float and a deep full sheaf is a protection to the candle foundation away A chiffon tunic from the figure in a quite unattached price of this'tiny thing is nom--JL the condensed package in bordered’ with a three-inch water aEd-add beside case and although’ they are probably band of satin inal ‘but its"' usefulnessis if wanted a little more seasoning’’ There are long manner much designed' with chiffon sleeves and there- is an overblouse some relation to greater thant the price would’ — j— of satin cut so that it the arms they are ill no way attached hangs — —— — lingerie clasp from’ the bust to them is a A New Desk' Pad smooth and wrinkleless' and ends We-Wear Our-lower and as dainty as it is useful It desk pad'is made with below the waist in' a from rounded A outline Silver cords reach the consists of little strip of’ and flowers! gatheredjTjl blotter section mounted on paste I to the back of the underarm seams strange But flowers ribbon half inch ribbon with a strip of waist The straight satin bodice suggests combination gathered board cretonne-covered — the dominant notes of the in: its lines 'a coat mail? are one of the center At one end is a of through pasteboard across each end to Taffeta Sashes fashions they in Paris is slightly as the other a socket There a rounded neck line Some of theappear velvet istreet ball and at under hold the blotter in place and ’to make spite of the fact that satin has finished with a little rolling collar as new suits the flower of a little lace' rosette This little strip two pockets Into one high in the back as in the hat of these is taken the place of taffeta to front of silver in the chiffon bodice A gray ofshirred ribbon about two inches slipped a little book- of blotters of the extent taffeta ribbon sashes are lace velvet suit is with a big gray worn long is put around the various straps shown ?nforiinany eveningisfrocks right size to blot-a letter all velvet canotier the taffeta trimmed with a huge of lingerie that the shoulder young women cerise rose "at the belt cretonne-covered board and into sash-shown is usually huge Pocketsgoover There will apparently have ‘a and it holds them securely and daintily Some’’ of the new velvet corsage the other pocket is slipped a at one side ot the iront ana very found bow place in wide ribbon is used autumn fashion 'A serge flowers bear little resemblanceto any placeThe ‘clasps come in white in pen frock with a short skirt and a long wiper of white flanne: mounted They known flower are composed of A finishing: touch is a overdress that blue and pink? disk from the four bip on cretonne-covercd hangs straight symmetrical petals the left Scalloped Velvet bead center to the little lace rosettes shoulders to knees below the the shows side of each petal overlappingthe rie?ht of the new showsa models two braided pockets hips The side of the one next to it They ifhe velvet skirt scalloped 'i'o Keep Hat Dustless about the frock is banded with on much narrow they are so the' scallops bound- with silk looklike pinwheels bottom braid: ThereIs another model with A Veionrs AVaistcoar hat bag is of and A made satin is long round symmetrical black ‘velvet There cat a beaded tulle interesting pockets It is velours waistcoat”: is made with a button their made cloth on collapsible tunic the a marks center or perhaps XX” waterproof bottom 'with gray effect pleated bodice in Russian of dark green and brown’ There a cut steel or jet button The frame that when open- is strong head fringe blouse effect pleated loose below the edges of the’ petals in three and are turned are deep pointed fronts and big protect the Over-the pleats are stitched enough to little hem-and stitched flat and Satin In spite small points of pique are stitched to two pockets largest There is a short satin of the fact that these flowers hat’and when closed is small and long chiffon tunic arePINK satin eveningfrock is made skirt edsred lap from the right over the left side and light enough to be almost they effective for unno-’ white net tun !c edged with with a band of are with satin Is There no they are in good colors and thev are the amber-colored glass buttons of the trunk and flat sailor collar under ticeable the bottom fur a of any other color than gray on unonkey big enough to make their color A high pleated ruff of linen is of the netfur edged Over- the the whole frock It thing comes in navy blue and black-’ which the smaller daintier white net monkey-edged tunic there into the neck of the waistcoat corsage flowers do not do is three inches shorter edged with Rounded Net one at the back a' fringe pearl beads There are many places where the Candy Shon Gift beaded nets that are sold bv the flower can be worn In evening frocks sells a yard are fascinating suop in sweets to the woman clasps the pointed bodice on the it rock astened in Back loves lovely fabrics most It is Onc-piec’e who shoulder or charming candy box There is it is fastened at the left Chocolate Cakes A frock consists of a loose interesting in' the' made of and is about sornethingdecidedly hip it is: made into strands to go over the children’s party very attractive cretonne 4a BRACK waistlcss bodice of ’‘'satin that combination of heavy metallic ambroidthe shoulder or it is fastened twelve inches wideeight- deep and on the favors are little cakes of milk reaches to the hips and 'fastens in ery and beads with thin and filmy het skirt the tulle' overskirts or chocolate the back with jet buttons is Some of the nets in black gayly in tinsel about eight or nine high' There is There are marked' and sometimesit is fastened wrapped over them band of jet the high off in diagonal lines with and bound with colored ribbons hinged embroidery about fur around the cover which opens to let the round white china on a band of and frill" of tulle flares’ beads "and others have little bottom paper beartlv Ou each cake of chocolate is drop down of the skirt as it is shown in a Bech-off Or the inside of the upward flowers of silver alternately mounted front There are long tulle sleeves pink and tiny favor front there- are four below the elbow with a band" of model: These favors include di spools of white full two-inch intervals it with-sleeveless -' Jia - ' : ' : canoes- 41 -little ‘ YOU WHEN ' SHOP bargains! - the-pretty J Roman PARIS - ZREEN favors I -j- r2“-' " " ' " ' ' l‘ 111 A f - -r - : -J brilliant At ’ -of ' ’ a -flaring : ‘ ' ' ‘ " i 1 t al-ways r 4 r II " J - milD ' indicate- - 4- -— so-called -It NET ' ASHION a-big a : NOTES -r Where Wartime A ’ inA ’ 4 t - ’today IN duplicated a-large - -show 1 -k' - Especially mountedon ' ’ a BUCKETS j ' J ’ a - ’ w ' ? ONE almost ’ ' - ASTyIART ' ! TRAVEliNG ’ a -finished ‘ 7 -waist i a Monkey - ' - A unflowerlike a a -the -touch -in obvi-ous-r-a fastened ' - ' - - A ASPBCIALTY HIRE ’ ? -of - j 1-?- ’ EOlt b I There is apparently no rench toque monkey serves which is of monkey aigrette end as hair the use of monkey fur In this smart the foundation and serves also for the and falis like a plume It is fastened on to YX u-der ' a ’ a ' a -neck- ' ' I -David ' a ? placedat p u - - - JI |