Show Section Tuesday May 12001 The Herald Journal rtisan Pagel new bakers in town go back to basics By Pat Bohm Trostle features writer T he Open Crumb Bakers are the new guys in town with a product different Romans other breads offered locally Josh Archibald John Reichert and Bill Bradbury bake artisan bread in hearth ovens Their bread is the crusty chewy flavorful kind that makes us' understand why head is called the staff of life Acombinatian of simple ingredients expert technique and the thermal magic of a health oven produces their special bread The Herald Journal visited the bakers toward the end of their work “day” at 6:30 am Reichert explained that Open Crumb uses the ovens and preparation space of Futhouse the restaurant is Pizzeria? 'ckmd That means the bakers start their work at midnight rather than a more conventional 4 am Bradbury confirms what that does to family life when he ’i fee day she would like to play “I’m not sleeping much” admits There’s someone here almost 24 hours a day” adds Reichert The idea man of fee team Archibald is about to finish a degree at Utah State University’s culinary arts program He served what mrmntfH to an apprenticeship at Grand Central Bakery of Portland Ore “one of fee leading Mitch MaacaiWHarald Journal artisan bakeries in the nation” 1 Reichert explains John Reichert one of three owners of Open Crumb Bakers loads loaves of tiabatta (literally "slippers”) into the oven -- LTheferee decided to bring arti- to Cache Wley producing 75 to 125 loaves a day of three ' basic types: Their “rustic white” is wife the only one that is made wholly of wish one if to white the Let surface a onto Bakers' Guild you Sprinkle glaze dough of America) (Bread middle rack white flour “Beige bread” is part on and the fee of Now start bowl clean the while rest place toppings you Sponge: few ice whole wheat part white The third throw a oven fee of 1 envelope (14 ounce) active dry yeast Immediately kneading slapping the dough around scrap1 steam Add floor the to oven create cubes on 1 12 about 12 type is dabatta (pronounced cups ing it up gradually adding cups warm water (103 to 110) bread wife an Italian more ice after 3 minutes and again after 6 flour and kneading until more flour 2 cups unbleached total a Bake for of minutes 10 8 minutes elastic to and ancestry made of smooth Dough: white whole wheat 15 minutes Then reduce the flour Return the dough to the bowl cover with 34 cup coarsely ground whole-wheand rye flours to 350F oven ' 1 temperature plastic wrap and let rise at cup warm water (105 to 110) 20 for minutes Reichert mentions bake and volin 1 tablespoon coarse salt almost room temperature until tripled that fee white flour longer or until the bread ume about 2 Hours flour About 6 12 cups is organic and all 1 egg white lightly beaten Turn the dough out again onto a floured sur-- sounds hollow when the the flours are grown is Turn the bottom tapped facei punch it down and tear off a small hunk Sesame seeds poppy seeds cracked wheat and milled locally fee bread and oven off let or flour for toppuig (optional) (6 ounces) to reserve for the levain (see Note) 15 He details the for in oven fee hot rest and Divide the remaining dough in half rack three Remove to a minutes qualities feat 1 disk inch thick into a In 12 each 12 hours ahead: a shape Make the sponge about ' piece define artisan cool and let large bowl dissolve fee yeast in 14 cup of the Wife die palms of your haridsi coax the sides bread hunk the Put of Note: of each disk warm water Let stand for 5 minutes Stir in “One isfeat it’s reserved dough (about 6 : down and undo- all around stretching the fee remaining 1 14 cups water and fee flour baked on a hearth a a in covered ounces) jar beatmgbyhandormamixer wifeadqugh : gluten cloak and plumping up each loaf into a wife 1 12 thermal mass warm of big cups round shape Pinch together the seams oh the hook for 1 minute Cover the bowl witn plasshelf not water is on levain a This the just down bottom and place fee rounds seam-sid- e tic wrap and let the sponge stand at room teman oven That gives it certain prop-- ‘ which will go into the next loaf Let stand at on two lightly greased baking sheets perature for 12 tol4 hours erties like oven spring room temperature for 12 hours then refrigerCover loosely wife a towel and let rife until Make the dough: Stir fee wholewheat 10 for to Tt’s also made from the simplest will levain The ate days up keep flour warm water salt and about 4 cups of die doubled in volume about 1 hour time The next of for freeze ingredients- There’s no preserve- you longer storage flour into fee sponge until fee Preheat fee oven to 450F'Paint the top and fives It’s made of only flour make the bread substitute the levain for yeast sides of the risen loaves wife the beaten egg dough becomes hard to work then turn it : water yeast and salt Wife a few ingredients like Kalamata Vic olive bread you’d add fee olives But if you want to add a bunch of £ butter and milk a purist would not consider feat artisan bread No fat ' Only those four ingredients “The third part of artisan bread is ii long fermentation We have two ' here tonight and one person doing the bake and the other ii doing fee mix for fee bread we're going to bake tomorrow Jttweformi and refrigerate it yeast ’ wmbread Basic Country Loaf well-flour- ed all-purp- at all-purp- -- - - ’ - ' 2'fto - Soyoudon’Svouj retard it slow it dowq u extend: the fermentation over 24 to 30 hours What feat does for the bread is really develop fee flavor of fee wheat and it increases the shelf Reichert’s enthusiasm for fee theory fend technique of artisan bread really comes to the fore He 'cV'r-The-n e I jlsNaM iiiiFiUwrwrTi siiii mnr)OgrsrmpwaanipenninnTaMrTTurneerarwir)nTiriTrTirTTTrTTTT nn — a— 1 r |