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Show THE BULLETIN Flowers, Jewels and Rich Fabrics By CIIERIE NICHOLAS STYLES TO REFLECT CHINESE INFLUENCE OSTRICH Striking Hues and Polychrome Effects Studied. Clever New Tricks Used to Get Color Contrasts. Paris spring clothes may show a Chinese Influence, reports from the fashion world Indicate. Stylists credit the predicted Oriental trend to the Inspiration of the International exhibition of Chines art In I which several designers have seen and more Intend to visit. Mandarin hats of black straw or lacquered printed satin, and gold Chinese bracelets fastening with a long pin, have already made their appearance,; while new spring fabrics, now being shown designer reflect an Oriental Influence. Some prints are patterned with tiny pngodas or fishes and others with designs which recall Oriental porcelains and vases tiny flowers within larger flowers linked In a smoothly running pattern. The striking hues and polychrome effects of Chinese porcelains, paintings and tapestries are being studied for possible color Inspiration for spring clothes. One shoe designer Is working on boudoir bootees of turquoise or peach blossom pink satin embroidered In mall flowers, which are cut to mount well over the ankle in a manner recalling the Chinese boot. When It comes to feathers young women seem to like the tiny, curled, TIPS ARE JUST NOW IN FAVOR for glided ostrich tip. The real flowers has also brought In all sorts of tiny or larger flower decorations made of fabric, ranging from a tiny circle of pink rosebud- to enormous coronets aud tiaras of satlu or velvet. Color contrast Is not new, but It 1s done In different ways this raidseasnn. Some of them are the pocket section In bright color on Schiaparelli's white resort suits ; the red woolen scarfs tied around the waistline of Iaray's black frocks; Malnhocher's light blue scarf going around one shoulder and tied under the nrui of a dark Mum evening gown; Piguet's color pipings on a black dress; Maggy Routts vivid velvet collars and plastrons on dark dresses; and Lanvin's multicolor bands around the tops of dark dresses, both Those working sleeves and bodice with lace are combining the same lace In two different colors this season, as Mack skirt and royal blue corsages held together by a scurf combining both. .on-do- By CHERIE NICHOLAS By CHERIE NICHOLAS and midseason reach their height and as high-lif- e society carries on gay festivity In faslilunuble southern re-- i sorts, one Is Impressed with the sur-- j passing elegance of the more formal modes. Smart gatherings, be they grand opera audiences, diners at the smartest places In town or sojourners In the Southlands, all bespeak the jtrend to a new high In splendor and opulence as expressed in terms of rich fabrics, precious furs, gorgeous Jewels and the wearing of rare and lovely flowers. . To add to the fascination of the style picture there Is a definite movement toward Individual, distinctive hnirdress such as recaptures the charm of wearing flowers, jeweled ornaments or exotic feather fancies In ornate coiffures. The aristocracy of current mode calls j for materials of high degree fashioned with that master simplicity which makes rich fabrics look richer. Such Is the lovely ensemble centered In the accompanying Illustration. Consider It If you will, as a fantnsy In lilac time" for such It would seem to be. A petite society girl wore this very lovely creation at a velvet fashion revue presented during a ball at a leading way down south" hotel recently. The dress Is lilac veizanza, which Is sheer and cool to wear. The long voluminous rape with big scarf collar draped over the shoulders Is of lilac velevt. Note the glittering Jeweled bracelet and the corsage which d dares a revival of that lovely custom j of wearing flowers. The Indy to the left. In the picture, tells you via her very charming costume that to Interpret fashion correctly, one must wear a glamorous necklace with bracelet to match, furthermore the coiffure must be enhanced with an ornate bandeau, which. In this Instance, Is of velvet and wee ostrich crush-resista- i a By CHERIE NICHOLAS e . y Hobble Skirt Is Returning According to Paris Report Patou again outdoes himself in his new silhouette treatment and expert . stunning models being turned out as this picture depicts. This very attractive luncheon or nfternon tea frock Is of crepe In a wistful violet shade. The girdle Is of slivered kid and violet suede. The felt hat Is In matching violet shade, nesting, tucking, and stitching, also braiding, will be lavished on fashionable apparel this season. Many Pleats It takes a slim figure to wear them, but there Is great chnrm to skirls entirely pleated. Dinner and more formal evening ogwns with tills skirt restore give the jKgarer a lovely, buoyant dressmaking. The hobble skirt is returning. Bands of fabric hang free from shoulder to hem. Others have tight front skirts, with wide circular back gores, laid In flat pleats, the width held In place. Some evening models are slit back and - !"--. gn-na- red-brow- n For Resort and Spring Colors Will Be Brilliant The vogue for strong colors which was launched last fall Influences the colors need for spring and resort wear, Here is one of the newer sports fasts. Mary Carlisle, known In film stardom, wears this new spring hat with her smart checked tailored suit Here you get "perfect picture" of what Is to he this spring. Indeed, suits are front d page new especially the sort with brief jackets neatly buttoned and plentifully pocketed. The hat la of spuntex felt with loose zigzag yarn stitch In rows forming s pleasing contrast as well ss being highly decorative. elm Beach colors slated for importunes aro yellowish tan, sun orange, chartreuse, dusty pink, strong blue gray blue, "Rose of tbe Rancho" rose, ine with a yellowish cast. White Is also slated for an Important position. l'rlnts are also Influenced by the demand for color. and d prints penult new and Interesting color combination man-tailore- hand-blocke- Hosts Gowns The smartly dressed hostess will wear all sorts of charming frocks varying from the loose tea gown with Its sweeping draperies and angel frock sleeves to tha trig with elbow sleeves sad neck slightly rounded at the front and cut to the waist In a silt or very narrow Y at the back, which la equally appropriate for daytime or evening entertaining. seml-evenln- g Silk taffeta la used to Interpret gowns with back fullness. In gathers sweeping backward from the waist One la in black silk taffeta, with scarlet velvet ribbon encrusted around the waistline. Others are In flowered silk taffeta. Many black tailored cocktail frocks In ankle length ere shown In allk satin or allk crepe. Orchids to Yow e Knitted Drst Popular knitted dresses are widely sponsored for full wear. Fabric Firsts Arrive for Spring By CIIERIE NICHOLAS Watch for dresses, suits and ensemble They are coming along thick and List In the advnnce Flat braids, round spring collection braid any and every sort of braiding will give a new aspect to the new fashion Soutache, of course, will be In the lend, for It lends Itself so aptly to versatile treatment. In the picture the smart ensemble shown Is of white silk gabardine. Gabardine, by tbe way, Is a word to keep In mind, for It la going to feature In headlines the season through, not only silk gabardine, but wool gabardine for the swanky little tailored suite which promise to be the rage this spring. The blouse worn with this white gabardine is of navy blue silk jersey. White soutache trims yoke and belt In vermicelli patterning. The coat Is decidedly new in cut, especially the sleeve braid-trimme- e dress Is butbecause It has heart-shape- d Pertons end heart-shapepocket haps jthe thought of St. Valentine Inspired 1L Anyhow, worn on February 14 It would make quite a "hit" or on any other day, for that matter, for there Is no denying tills clever frock la exceedingly attractive. It la made of pure allk creie In a lovely rich coral tone entered on the new color card as sunset The side pleated skirt stitched to the hipline la smartly feaNote the tured In Incoming fashion four cunning heart-shape- d pockets and button fastenthe unique heart-shape-d ing. The hat Is of the new spuntex felt The dress Is equally as attractive In white or any of the pastel Its short sleeves are oteworthy shade since advance news gives emphasis to the coming Importance of sleeves that are of above-elbolength. This winsome ed two-piec- d Contrasting Colors Noted in Winter Season Styles Color contrasts sre leading style note of winter costume which often combine s dress or skirt with a contrasting jacket or use one color for a coat and anothcape or three-quarte suit which goes er for the with It. This tendency has been emphasized by the prevalence of reversible mateRochas shows ensembles In rial jarred woolens or mixtures of silt cellulose film, so effective example of the latter material . being a purplish Jacket with grayish blue lapels worn over a dress or costume of the same blue. Another smart ensemble combines s green and red dress. Contrasting color schemes are seen not only In woolens and other daytime clothe but also In the evening inode which Includes dresses of changeable fabrics, reversible satin or moires with contrasting face er two-piec- front Here's a captivating fashion that's credited to the debutantes. Orchids In the hair lenkVheiLondon's MiyfalP beair. gan to wear these white feathers rath er high In front on a ribbon band, Miss America iufproded on the Idea by wearGlad Hands . Nothing Is gnyei than gold and siling threeerchM on a velvet or. satin ver tissue evening gloves seen these head band to match the flowers. And are far more lovely days. They are lung and very, very 'the real flowers than tha original feathers were. nrl .a elegant '1 in addition to black, which Is alwqyi Cuba need by vlilil touches, there are many new odor schemes, often daring but always effective, one combination that Is more fashionable than ever Is the use of moss green or water green with dark reddish brown. Rochas combines a subdued tone of blue wttb a faded red for morning aud day models. Another fashionable combination seen In many houses Is t enMaiuboclier allows hancing pale bln several unusual color schemes, such as gray with and lapis, dark green with burgundy, violet with gold, gray with red, brown and lapis blue; green with coral and shell pink with gold. Two-piec- en Headdresses, as the newest of the formal accessories, embrace a wide variety. Such a wealth of real flowers, worn not-onlin the hair In arresting ways; such as the half cap of six gardenias which covered one side of a young girl's coiffure, but also on the shoulders and corsage of women of all ages has not been seen around these parts in years. Orchids and gardenias are the favorites, but one sees also real daisies, cornflowers, carnations nsed In effective fashions. The little Juliet cap Is perhaps the most popular jeweled headdress these nights; these are In rhinestones or pearls, and very rarely In coral sometimes with turquoise. Schiaparelli's chenille snood Is another variation of this fashion, but most young girls seem to prefer the sparkle of jewels among their curls. The flair for colorful crepe frocks for afternoon wear Is resulting In such fea- er REAL FLOWERS IN HAIR, IS NEW FAD PLEATED CREPE Mr CHERIE NICHOLAS Fur Hat Mink and Ferslan Iamb are used frequently to make the beguiling fur hats enjoying such popularity this season. Many wearers will bless tbclr milliners when bitter, tricky, winter winds begin to blow, and the little fur hat stays snugly just where It Is supposed to stay. so- tips. The unlqne velvet belt done In petal or leaf motif, also the coronet of feathers and velvet, are In a deep rich purple tone matching the cape that was worn with the gown. A semi-shenubby material woven on a velvet loom Is the fabric of tbla pale leaf-greevening dress. Reports from all fashion centers In regard to the new season's trends place emphasis on the Importance of strictly tailored short jackets that top rather short slenderizing skirts. The majority of first arrivals In the suit realm give preference to mannish types of hip length. The model to the right la along this line of thought neat and natty to a nicety. The slim straight skirt Is of brown crystelle and the fitted Jacket of white. Fabrics such as this, that are woven on a velvet loom, are becoming Increasingly popular where dainty lightweight material Is wanted that Is suitable and pracwear. The white tical for year-roun- d hat with brown veil that tops this stunning outfit Is tree chic. Most of the hats coming from Paris feature decorative veils. Brown kid gloves, brown kid shoes, and a white leather bag complete this costume. Some of the most striking and most beautifnl ensembles for formal nights are white In every detalL A likable formula for full dress la the gown of velvet which Is as sheer as chiffon, or it may be of white crepe, satin or taffeta, to which add a snowy ermine wrap, long white gloves, two strands of pearls, diamond bracelets or a single wide one, a diamond hair dip and three pure white orchids pinned to a narrow ahovlder strap. Striking color combinations are tured by all leading dressmaker IDEAL SPORT HAT Ilnnd-arreene- BRAID TRIMMED SWEETHEART GOWN THE winter AScial activities NEW COLOR SCHEMES SEEN ON PARISIANS STYLE NOTES 8mart tailored suits sre the thing for spring I Pleated print frocks sre In spring style parade. New berets and sailors are shallow-c- rowned. Colored gloves and shoes are on the spring program. Shirtwaist types persist In advance dress showing Afternoon dresses display much fagoting and Ingenious fabric work. Green accessories are worn with thejiewray short-jack- talllur Colors for Millinery Are Copied From Ancient Urns Colors from pottery made by men who died 2,000 years ago will adorn the hat of fashionable Miss 1930. R. F. Wilson, of the British Color council, has been working at the museums In South Kensington, adopt lng subtle shades from Chinese vase many of them dating back to 1N0 B. C. Here are some of the colors taken from the pottery of ancient China : Coolie, an unusual type of Saxe blue which the coolie of China dyes his clothes with to this day. Corn stalk, a golden yellow with which the Chinese loved to decorate their beautiful vase Mnndarln blue, made specially In Yorkshire for export to China. Ruby, the red of the precious stone, taken from Chinese rase Lotus bud, a delicate pink, the same color as the . flower. FLASHES FROM PARIS More necklaces are worn than for many year New hnirdress hints of bangs and pompadour Jeweled snoods glisten on formally colffed head Colorful clusters of fruit or vegetables trim new hat Because of Chinese influence in dress. Interest In tunics Is revived. India-printe- d cottons and linens for formal evening wear is new note. Shiny lacquered prints on dull background make their debut In spring fabric realm.' Rag-Ru- g Necklaces Worn by Parisian Fashionables necklaces are next, says " Farls. They sre made of woefc tfsten lo resemble bright rag rugs and used to make great ball bead These re strung on a long cord and worn swinging over the bodlcq. of a wool frock. Sometimes little toques and wool are gloves of the same "rag-rug- " worn with the necklaces. "Rag-rug- FUrsd Back j The smart swagger coat usually has a trick flared back that permits B free and easy stride In brisk autumn weather. Black and while plaid woolens are popular for this type of coat d firsts'' for midseason are even at this early date staging s great show In big stores as well as stores not so big. If nerves are tired snd winter gloom begins to pall why not slip away for a few hours from dull rare and go meandering down Isle after aisle of the new materials? It will act like a tonic. Try It. There are quite a few things to learn Generally bout the new fabrics. peaking both the linens and tbe cottons are taking on soft crepey finish which Is different" Then. too. there Is a tendenry toward rough spongy finishes and novel nubbed weave IVitternlngs show decided originality and In Instances are almost amusing. The modernized prints depict bars and music note or perhaps shell or fish motifs and the newest thing Is vegetable aud they are wonderfully design Very new, too, Is the motif which takes Its button Tyrolean cue from the bright painted wooden buttons that adorn peasant frocks aud mocks and Jackets. It Is well to keep In mind that cot--' tons are scheduled to play a tremendously Important role In the scheme of thing'. You will thrill at the sight of them. The newer types are positively baffling In that they so often give the Impression of being handsome wool suitings or spongy soft uncrush-abl- e linen They ore that good looking they may be smartly worn about town, tha new nubbed cotton tweeds making up most satisfactorily Into tailored jacket suit For the group the new materials are nothing lees than Inspirational. One of the new-comers In tbe realm of smart cottons or which you will be wanting to order a dress length at first glimpse Is twin- FABRIC good-lookin- twine print, which looks mors like a soft spongy loose woven linen canvas than anything else. You'll lovs this d cotton. It is cool snd casual, doesn't crush, has practically no wear-ou- t to It and Is every Inch smart and attractive la sppeirsnc d effect with brilIt has liant print on either white or natural The patterning is Interestground ing. Including square dot motifs in bright peasant blues snd reds on natural, also florals In orange, green snd brown. An allover scroll patterning In deep red on natural 1 perbap handsomest of all. The smart tailored coat frock pictured to tbe right Is fashioned of d dark Black groegraln binds the collar and front dosing. Black bar buttons and patent leather belt sre used as trim accent. The other gown pictured Is a spectator sports mode done lu a soft Jersey type fabric of bemberg with narrow wblte stripes on deep The convertible necktoned ground line, ascot scarf snd graoeful cape This sleeves are each fashion-right- . handsome fabric wean beautifully, resists wrinkling and Is cool. sleek end slim under your topcoat. It Is shown also In white grounds with bright colored stripes for wear when the warmer d.iys cope. It tubs or dry (leans nicely a mi 'easily presses slick aud tnavs s new. Jersey type fabrics are fasb-lonpvs jhls year and ar spnqsofed by leading designers of Fafia. Lbnfl ' ' snd American style center rough-surface- hand-loome- scroll-patterne- twin-twin- |