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Show SUNDAY STANDARD: OGDEN TTATT, SUNDAY, JUNE 1907 year, for ta spite of ell that's said about our frivolity we do possess a little common sense and realise that there I ng mute becoming setting for faces that are fair or ought to be fair than a hat of carefully hem curves and nodding plumes. mall Waist Again. Tha fancy belts an Intended for the woman with the broad shoulders and the slender, trig, rounded watat. Then is no us now in denying that wa are back to days of taring and email waists. It is part of the scheme of dressing. Everything general in the new clothe demands it and all the corsets an fitted to produce u. It would not surprise many of us If the old and perilous fashion of reducing tl waist to eighteen Inches ta exact measurement would return. for the athletic girt Ml chaaged much In Gowks line V ' r fi this summer. and evea the materials ia which they ara developed vary but slightly from the eld order ef things. li la in headgear, though, that the difference are most noticeable, for the eunhoanet ia going to be very popular with the girt who golf or play term La. Completing a costume of flannel or a cation blouee and skirt the rcault mill be piquant, but wora with a ameater a biaarre not ia at onu struck. Speaking of sweaters, it is possible nowadays to get a woolen jacket that Is looking as a tailored quit as natty coat. There to the close Ailing sleeve-le- ss waistcoat affair, the parent of the blouse, the spencer waist and tha blouse proper, falling fun ever the belt In front and n variety ef styles in easts There Is nothing new in fobt-we- ar either, for any lady's dalmty feet wlU he shod ia lisle thread stockings and rubber sola canvas, buck and leather ties ia taa er black aa preferred. la belts there la a revival of the striped ribbon nice the weave aeea oa tha con rent ioasl sailer hat. Ta coma bark to tha outdoor girl, the illustration shews mademoiselle ready for any kind ef apart In strong contrast is tbs mamas la an evening frock of spangled whit net incrustod wltk exaulsite laces. New Nam Far Grenadine. Per dressy wear and especially for day functions of all kinds Bathing ia men fashionable this teases thaa tha stlkaa fabrics which are displayed la aurk profusion ta all tha shape sad establishments Particularly saught after are the soft, cllngiag silks, the maussellnae, tbs liberties sad tha asvalty foulards For a comparatively saw malarial marquleetta baa perhaps mad as great a asm far itaalf aa It will ha say ether, and thle aeaaanmateria la far ana ef the most popular all kinds of dressy frocks. Our grand-m-at kars would probably have called U "grenadine,1 but we And many aid and waU tried favorites disporting under saw names and thus claiming attention as novelties. Marquisette adapts itself charmingly to all kinds of trimming schemes, whether elaborate er at Its best when plalu, and Is decorated with be ml of chiffon taffeta In self tune or in a Mlbhily contrasting shade. The Sheri Skirt. la spite uf llie fact tlial skirts were predicted luurei there are very many fashionable skirts built ! a very ehurt walking length. Many of the skirts cs very near the unktea, and there are a fsw daring unes that boldly display tha shoe tops. The English walking dresses are particularly noticeable la this respect. There are dresses mad for fashionable walking during the London season that are short and B full that they swing clear of the ankles, frankly displaying a vary handsome pair of shoe taps. Fuff ad Aheulders. AH tha short waists show tha shoulder puffs. Tha aiesvsg instead f be- - Modish Bilks. s Some Foulard is much In vogue as trimming on voiles, marquisettes and simitar materials, and when so used girva much tha appearance of a pattern dree. Particularly suited ta this purpose are tha different steed water dots. Bands rut to show but a single row iff tha dots, the edges finished with stitched bands of the plain colored ton. most effective as well as lard, make Inexpensive trimming and are , well worth a trial. For somewhat leas dressy frock tussore silks, pongees and rajahs coma la most desirable shades for street wear and for tha making of all manner of charming costume of a somewhat utilitarian character. Two piece costumes of any uf these silks are Immensely popular this season, and lha asms silks are also much used fur Jaunty separata coatees for near with foils skirts. In such cases the little coats may either be trimmed with ths voile to correspond with the skirt or, quits as appropriately, the skirt may be ornamented with bands and scrolls of ths silk to harmonise with the upper garment; In fact, there la no limit to the charming diversity possible In the building of these half dressy and wholly serviceable little affairs. Whit Hssiary. Whit hosiery for men and women Is now ta the aenith of popularity, in milady's goods, quotations for worth while grades range from half a dullur for sheer gauss lisle to $40 per pair for bright silk hosiery.- These tatter show hand embroidered geometrical designs cm the Instep, besides has relief treatments all over the stockings. Lac ankles, delicate steeide clockings and raised tosenge effects ate Included among the prominent feat ui vs of better quality hosiery. White stockings admit of greater elasticity than soma other kinds. In half hose prices un white novelties run from quarter of a dollar for lightweight plain cottons to $10 per pair for pure silk. White linen hose for men srs mesh, three-quarthaving tha biggest boom in the history of the trade. Largs polks dots in contrasting tones front the ground rotnr of sock divide atlenlloa with small black pin dots. - Ing drawn down closely and tightly at tha shoulders, are puffed out, and ta many cases the puffs are so Urge that one la reminded ef the puffed sleeves of several year age. lack Velvet and Lingerie. Little velvet trimmings are playing a mast Important part ta tha dressing up at tha sew gowns. A certain young woman wha la tha owner ef a handsome white lingerie dress Is making It very different In appearance by adding some folds of burnt orangs velvet no more than half an Inch. In width ought to be awarded a price, said a floorwalker. "Hundreds uf women have at laat revolted oguinst the flimsy, overtrlmmed short sleeved, buttoned down the bark waists (hat are piled up on every counter, yet not one manufacturer was wise enough ts foresee Inevitable. that rebellion, which was Every day as the season --advances w receive orders from dosrnr of shoppers . and even narrower, Sensible Blouses, la say contest for shortslghtadneaa. shirt waist manufacturers certainly who want sensible shirt waists that will be appropriate for street and office wear, yet we are enable to meet ths demand, simply because each garments are not manufactured. A few houses. It Is true, have turned nut a limited number of serviceable waists In madras end linen, but these are too heavy fnr midsummer wear. So gnat Is the demand for common sense Summer Costumes Changes In the ew wee shirt waists that any manufacturer who will ..today begin to supply ths tons With proparly trimmed, long sleeved, buttoned down ths front waists of white lawn is sun of a fortune before the end of the season." Ths Picture HaL Big black hats seem to be always ta high favor and never non so than this ' er 4 V finding ; favor . June 13. Nothing Is exquisite Hum the Bnla early summer mornings as the poet says, whan, "Spring has unlocked ths flowers to paint ths laughing solL It was mighty difficult, though, for Dams Nature to get tha combination this season, but then why talk of tha evils, that era pastT When I speak of early morning" I mean the hours that com the petit dejeuner and dejeuner proper; ta ether words, what you Americans would call the time between breakfast sad luncheon. It gets mors and mors fashionabta each sea sun for tha Part sienna to go footing" ta the early morning, and now that English complexions srs the thing ta the Villa Lumter apes sir exorcise is quits the rage. , I am aa ardent admirer ef the elegant Farlsienne at all times and In almost every situation, bat I think she ta In the early morning at her very-beshour la the Beta. The little Jupe trot-teula wora with such chic and grace and tha details ef an apparently simple toilet an carried out 1a s licit perfection! But this toilet Is not the simple thing It seems and ta reality Is Just as complicated' as the afternoen er evening costume, but one has te be In the know" 1 appreciate Its subtlety. It Is certain, though, that na women ta the world equal the Parlslenne In the art ef wearing tailor made gowns. Nature has made these mondulnes exceedingly careful of detail, and this In avery .walk ef life, and from early youth they are taught to regard dress a an affair ef the utmost importance. To a Parlslenne It ta a matter f vital moment that tha dainty little purse carried with a gown should harmonise Perfectly with some ether detail, with the sporty looking necktie,' perhaps, or with tha embroideries on the waistcoat. Everything has Its own meaning, and nothing Is too small to he con sklered. Everything and anything an this extraordinary person, for some mysterious reasofl, looks well. fihe may place her hat an the nape of her neck er tilt it on her nose; she may disport herself In crinoline er empire scantiness er assume quiet shades er colors of oriental splendor, but sha is never ridiculous. Mors than this, she is always n success. And that Is why she continues to Impose fashions the world ever. sen In ths Beta Yesterday morning, In the Alta dee Acaetas, Mme. Henri Lei F iller worn remarkably, effective tailor mads ef biscuit canvas with silk braidings of the same shade on the hem of the skirt and about.- - tha, kimono bolero. Ths PARIS. . es ' se i u. t waist belt of glove kid toned ta with ffta biscuit of the canvas and- the bolero opened over a blouse of white handkerchief linen with frilled and tucked fronts after lha manner of tha dress shirts ef our The only touch ef color In the costume was supplied by tha narrow tie ef dark green taffeta. A number of the early birds" .wars f rocked la canvas doth in a shade bordering on the modish khaki. - Happily It was not th genuine kliakl. which ta particularly trying to the average complexion, but It closely resemblM lt. In the new silk canvns this color Is really effective. But. to return to the walking frocks Of the season, they are charming, though a trifle unpractical.. The new tmtteur ta not long In the sense that It requires holding up. still It is not short In the sense that It can he trusted not to assist In keeping .the slreeia clean. When correctly cut and worn over the right underskirts three new skirts are lovely, but It la useless to deny that they are extravagant. All women know that it Is quite Impossible to hold up a gown which does not poe is a train, even a very slight one, though something may be dime by s Judicious twist at th back. It la quits on th cards that the Jupe trottecr In its actual meaning may return to us when our trunks are being packed fur Trouvilte or. Btarrlts. but at present it Is regarded as out of the question, cve-for the morning constitutional. Skirts Are Lsngsr. This ta really good news, for the trotteur proved Itself a atuirbl.. block to women of nil sixes and axil may be taken as a useful. If rough, rule, that a skirt that does more than show the. tip of the toe or at must the foot up to the beginning of the instep Is a failure from the beauty viewpoint. Of course 1 sin not speaking of gowns for wet weather nr of walking costumes fnr the country. I am speaking of summer dresses to be worn In the la street. In the Hols, and later at watering places. If the ordinary summer skirt be sufficiently short tn be worn without fear of helping to clean the roads It Is certainly too short to he becoming or correct. Borne of the latest models in voile de sols show perfectly shaped skirts trimmed with a number of tucks on the bent. , It ta hardly necessary to remind you that these tucks are always done by hand and arranged la graduated widths - At the extreme hem they measure about five Inches, and then an Inch they are reduced each one-ha- lf as they run up toward the knees For linen dresses a favorite style of adornment Is a combination of deep tucks and hand embroidery three tucks a band of embroidery and se on. For afternoon gowns voile de sole shares popularity with marquisette, which Is really nothing more than glorified grenadine, and Indian gauss a fabric that comes In pastel shades and gives fascinating effects when Inset with old effei-tive- of tw'rt seem entirely monopolised by trimmings, and aoiai there will be no body to our frocks at all. They will be all trimming. --A certain gown worn on the stags here recently very rlesrly Illustrate this point.. Of fabric, by tha way. printed cretonne 1 fash-Innab- of th earring, and a second string from ths back, the longer siring being In front, and both ending- in a larger stone of n different variety. A beautiful corset cover Is made of two wide bands of taffeta in a flowered design and united with lace Insertion. i Th armholes are cut sway slightly, the shoulder etmi see tunned of insert tan, beading and lace edging, mid1 r ST ths couturiers i WhaT THE ; SHOPPER SEES. Very quaint and, attractive are the spreads for the baby's crib. They are Diode In blue maraeillea, od which In white tatters are little birds flying and frogs. with verses from "A Frog He Would Go" The. new double earrings are as . showy as ' they are These constat t a string uf diamonds or other precious Stones banging from the front yellow lace tnd further beautified with ribbon work embroideries And. apropos of trimmings they are being so exaggerated that It ta time we railed n halt, for we are being borne down by the weight of them.. They are thrust upon u pellmell, end. the attentions of Introduced to the drew) making world by s smart French society woman end dons to death since by the multitude-- la covered with n tunic- - of coarse lace embroidered with flowers In white cotton. The edge of tha tunic Is outlined with Nnttler blue velvet, end the sleeves are of lace. One of the most effective dresses I have seen this season was of chalk white cauvas cloth with deep Vandykes of Maltese lace st the bottom of the skirt. Between these Vandykes were raised embroideries In white linen thread, and the bolero cape was of a coarse make of the Maltese. There was s blouse ef tucked muslin pnd Valenciennes, with s high stock of taffeta In s peculiar, vivid chad of flg green. The wearer of this gown was very dark, end sha carried off most beautifully s large cloche hat of deep yellow Tuscan strew, with s full crown of ecru net embroidered in silver end greet bunches of black cherries foiling over the brim st one side. Under th brim, resting on the dark hair, were several blush roses. Oh. yes, end before I forget It, almost all of the beat dressed women srs wearing pale grey suede gloves Indeed, it seems more like s uniform, and s very pretty one at that Another accessory sensation occurs I beltdom In the kid celntura embroidered In wool. Such a belt ta stunning worn with a plain colored stuff gown. At Columblna the other night there waa the usual fashionable crowd. It wee a warm evening, and the women had evidently taken advantage ef the opportunity to don their most summery costumes A dainty frock worn by a smart girl was of white embroidered linen with a couple of tace flounces hanging from the knee line end s loosely fitted bolero nnd short sleeves In the same tace. Bitting ait one of th tables was a prominent actress adorning a confection In dull blue printed foulard spotted with wafer designs In light blue, these In turn being sprinkled with a powdering of white circles. The skirt was rut In three pointed tiers, and a very unique addition was the embroidered pattern on the bolero iff gray taffeta worked ta shades of grey ilk. The undersleevee were of white mousseline de sola The hat crowning this creation was of gray chip- covered with mngnlflrent gray ostrich plumes, ' The Parlslenne saye that her petti-nn- at this summer shall be white In tace er embroidery ae you will hut Itame Fashion has a decided fancy for broderie angtaiee. An American Queen of Fashion. The Princess de Bearn, who waa Miss Beatrice Winans of Baltimore, bae risen to the dignity of being one' of - SMART LITTLE M0R5I5G decorated with bows ft ribbon tied on the shoulders. Sachets fur bureaus are made of crape per dollies, threaded together with ribbons. Put the w milling filled with sachet powder between the (lollies and thread them, tying the ribbon In a pretty bow. Little lags ere shown made of flower- d or plain rllitain and contain thlm-an- d Me, small scissors, cotinn silk and buttons. Fastened to and forming the FROCKS IN GINGHAM AND CHAMBRAY. e bottom Is a book containing lace with embroidered medallions in a needles and around the edges a row of color. A very odd long chain for watch, tan pills. A butter dish of crystal beautifully or lorgnette 1s of beaten silver with etched with n very narrow rlru la larae beads strung on it of clouded shown on the counters. It Jh tlie size amber. of a bread and hmlev plute nnd has a Luinty lii tie bows fnr the collar of narrow rim of silver, with a black silk plaited ends which are edged silver butler stick. -with black tace. They make a tasty Among tli smorr thing- - shown In tlni-- h to the collar. the shops Is n homfsinne pelt Iron t of Very quaint and attractive are the blue silk l rimmed w till ruffle of yclJnw spreads for the baby's crib. They are nc-ull- ple-.-re- thoee who set the fashion here at tha gay capital. The Vie Heureuse quotes her as "the most stylish and best dressed American woman In Paris" Last Sunday sha was seen at tha Auteui! race course wearing a light brown frock of silk voile. This simple though elegant frock had a bodice draped over a deep cream lac front and the short throe-quartsleeves edged with narrow frill of the lace. A tan straw capeline wreathed with violets adorned her pretty head. Greek draperies, we are told, will tallow the present Japanese eras, and tbs wholesale adoption of the kimono corsage' is- hurrying matters forward. There ta even now a new coatee falling Just short of the waist with a square outline both back and front. Ths cape-llk- a sleeves carry on th Un set on small flat, round epaulets. In this model the lengthened shoulder Is retained without touching In the least ths stlheuetto of the kimono. CATHERINE TALBOT. er ONE GOOD GOWN. The woman with just one new gown Is pusxled to know bow she can adapt,, it to the various occasions for which It ta required. And if she can have only one dress she is undecided aa to the color It should be and the material of which It should bo mode. And she is pusaled ns to Its proper styles shall It be Eton, empire or princess? A woman had this solved for her by a fashionable dressmaker who good naturedly offered her a hit of advice: "If you can got only one gown," said she, "let It be a good one and of ths aemltallored order. Do not get a sever style, but one that Js between the tailor mads and the frilled, lingerie drees. A soft pretty brown veiling in a shade of burnt brown would be good. Make It up over white and trim It with some very glossy wide braid. It wlU eland the weather well and look ales time It ta put on." The style of drees, if on can bars but a single new costume, should ba rather dressy. And, when selecting fashion. It ta a good thing to look at the new bolero coate which are cercon- -' tainly coming out wonderfully well no sidering the tact that they are by means novel. -- WHITE SHOES. White buckskin shoe are needed tor all white costumes. This last leather is somewhat more expensive than kid or canvas, but tn tha end tar the most economical, for It keeps It shape,n. never discolors and cleanse to perftc-tloAs long as there Is anything lej of a buckskin shoe Its appearance trig and smart. - on which In could easily be cut apart for making ' . white letters are little birds flying and Insets. . aao frngs. with verses from A Frog He Very attractive are the erarfa w Would Go." centerpieces of Irish point. They The combination of white and ecru much to a bureau or table top. white continues to be reckoned smart, esLovely silk stockings In oyster are embroidered In whit daisies aw pecially where the darker tint Is desame cidedly yellowish In tone. round wreath at th top of the One of the new laces ta coarse and flower. open like curtain tare. It 1a shaped One of Hie new veils 1s of plain hlax like a diamond and haa a closely net edged th tower part a oven, raised flower In the center. It with narrow, line black silk fringe. made of blue mamellle. |