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Show THE SUNDAY tu lam in iu fcuiurie. tor mr MORNING uvuaruuiu buu marshal of the court. Frinc Han his orders. This must necessarily ex Bya(ltnT,1,v Henry XI. uf Pies is chieftaei master ercise an undesirable and injurious ef,i, iiuic fect on the emperor, and should be -SJKMeJ. : The cuii! Ufin u ch Gred in on lnipllLL master or the hunt and taken into account In estimating his 4tKi.wu.uuu hi j . Vrf . rhlna. i master character and qualities and hi tenBaron of ari.tocr.tic of I hr hunt. The duke of Tracheaberft. dency as an autocrat. ,h, mlksdo hah oT ; the Persian of These aristocratic satellites of ihe - .bo simultaneously bears the title ,lend,r,h UM prince of Hatxfeldt, is the chiefeat Imperial person sre bound in their Ink tercourse with his imperial cupbearer to the emperor. Count majesty b is chief rup bearer and Baron the strict rules of etiquette prevailing Brincken is cupbearer. Prince Hugo of Radolin is lord high steward and Count Kuleabarg is master of the ceremonies. Count Gaits Is master of the imperial kitchen and another Count Wedel la master of the imperial stables. General Count Pemoocher-Rotllinukis keeper of the iutperisl wardrobe, and his brother is captain of the imperial castle. Count Knuiti and Count Kneabeck are vice masters uf the ceremonies and Baron Escberk is rice master of the l tallies. Count Truetsschler is vice master of the ceremonies and Introducer of the diploand matic corps. Nine other count batons arc vice masters of the ceremonies. Count Hueleen Is grand master of the Imperial tlfcaters. Some 350 noblemen sre chamberlains of the imperial household and forty men of the highest birth are gentlemen of the Helnise-Witisaenrod- ! jjji V.'al-dnc- EXAMINER, OCTOBER r has 1 Ms'.i-iu- norre-spond- three-cornere- own household, nib tarn of tits east cannot levisg monarch compels Vth the display of the Gorans court. The German emperor, who is extremely modest and simple in his poo usal tastes, takes a keen delight .in iks snlnisnanos of all Vhls imperial ikov aad display. lle believe it to ki seorssary to uphold the power and prmtlgs and dignity of hla imperial He spend mllHone of marks patio wry year and has contracted iim bmw debts In hla efforts to raise the stsudtrl of imperial luxury. The Gets iiu myeror Is always eu mounded by t ftw of noblemen of the highest isak, who occupy various offices at as-ais- Every officer, even if he has attained the highest rank of Held marshal, must stand at attention and raise hla right hand to his cap In a military salute so long as the emperor converses with him. If the conversation lasts half an hour the officer must remain In this altitude fur half an hour, lien who are not offmust remain bareheaded when icer the emperor addresses them aad must remain bareheaded until he has cessed to converse with them. There ie no exception to this rule, and the imperial chancellor. Prince Buelow, has to follow It with the same exactitude as any workman whom the kaiser may address during hia drives. A curious incident occurred during which the rom mnsnuk latter addressed to him. The kaiser waa so annoyed by the American millionaire's lack of respect that he abruptly broke off the conversation, turned on his heel and walked away without completing a sentence which he had begun. Hew te Eat Befora a Kaiser. 1st dice who are admitted to the presence of the kaiser must curtsey ao low that they almost lie uimn the ground at hia feet. All persons, men and women alike, must kiss the hand of the empress when they are presented to her or when she addresses them. When the emperor desires strangers to dine with him he does not Invite them, but the marshal of the oourt cent friend of min I cam into possession of one of th quaintest conceit of tlio day ta wearing again of th time honored sigh trap. But our grandmothers would not recognise this adjunct under Its Uttar day elegance, True the name of nightcap U not need In connection with this headdress, and my attractive Ittla Invalid dubbed the lovely confection that crowned bar pretty heed a dejeuner, er boudoir cap. Thera le no denying that th charm of thla cap when made of book muslin, tha mob crown art with a soft frill of cream eolored Valenciennes Iso and tied round with a soft silk srarfi I fetching. W receive la bed these caps are during eonvalsseene not only pretty, but practical and Car mere In harmony with the rarrornd-ing- s than the elaborate coiffure so frequently Indulged In nowadays by fastidious women under the moot trying to new and X suppose will appear The extensively In winter millinery. greatest number of felt hate are being for warn, and not alone plain felt many of tha models have beaver edges two and three Inches wide with plain senior while others show a velvet canter with th velvet applied to withIn shapes in several Inches of tha edg there ta tha flat crowned sailor with Its turned up brim, the email c hapeas ou cavalier line and the plateaux that tha millinery artiste lova to manipulate Into A faall aorta of becoming form vorite way of disposing of tha plateau to to mount It an a high bandeau at tha back, giving It a becoming tilt over tha fac Tha shape ta than caught up high In tha back and left aids and trimmed with fluffy ostrich feather rising from the bandaa where they are fastco-- d with large velvet bow. Many of the creations shewn have bandeaux pinned In them ao they may ha changed anally Not oven our grandmothcondition ers with their much vaunted superiority to the right position to suit tha custowould have the heart to condemn our mer. HmaU hate and hate of medium dainty rendering of their homely and alas will accompany morning and sebut certainly disfiguring specimen ef night- verely tailored afternoon frock for dreader chapeaux largo hats of all ly headgear. shapes are tha newest, the picturesque Oatnaborough being likely ta taka th lead. Two stunning beta of thto clasa ar to bo seen at Vlrot On to a Urge whits felt with a grey outer brim. A trio of while ostrich tlpa fell ever the bandeau and rest lightly an tha hair at one sld Tha crown ta softly draped with two shades ef gray velvet. Tha second to a picture hat of flowered rilk. raised In the front with feathers and a Glolrs da Dijon roe Tho most reassuring thing about tha present fashions to that the best of everything sre ms to find fkvor with designers of mods In accordance with the wearers pleasure, various degrees of sumptuousness of dress will b observed. with beautiful fabric glorious coloring and costumes made with th utmost simplicity. And (herein will II thrir chic. CATHERINE TALBOT. Fashions Seen at Noted Parisian Resorts 44444WIHtHHI IHHIHMI I vender with a ft. Kept, ) yea have ever been Percuss? If yon know year Parle well you certainty hare taken dinner er luncheon at this bistorts old restaurant ow the Qua! Gtunds Augustin near the Pont Keuf. Like all the old established cafee of Um gay nspttel. Le Prrouae ha it hie-s- rr. Mute. Pompadour and Louis XT. are Mid ta bars dined lliera Incognito Today this establishment can bout of a (llentele not to bs met In any other Dial houNt. Situated near th L'Ecole 4w Beaux Art th student whe has Um good fortune to become a Fits de tow generally eel eb rates this greet vrt at In Pereuee. Famous palnt-w musicians and sculptor of many bwm dead and gone' and ether eld "4 fray, have with the blush of youth stammered out there their thanks for littering toasts on the eve ef their departure for the Villa Medici In th City. At La Peroune every-iKis simple and plain. There are tables covered with flower. As to to noisy band, if you were te hint at the shsenee of such a or thing the would look at you in surprise Ml you tint h thought you pro t Jour dinner in peso, and rave (be second course Is served you 0 agree with him. when it dewna ,hot music would distract from tli mmiUrpikco8 of cull-r- y srt ret before you, and you Hit T?UJ 'otol in thanksgiving that the nrld chefs and msltrrro d'hote) me those si Ij Perou,,, Then lunching there the ethr to rest surest was dayrf b, ,h '"'"nee of a party of sreirty women and their train of ! sitrnd.M,. They hurried ever PARIS, In bias fold of satin or velvet They are pointed in front, If th flgura caa stand It. In other word the silhouette te he aimed at le a round, well defined waist, high bust and small hips. If thee sartorial requisite are observed much license is allowed a to wbothor on wears a long or short coat and plain or plaited skirt. There I a secret, known only to a favored few hero a the capital, that one of the leading Parisian house Intend to bring out a model of a w roly cut princes gown with a perfectly tight fitting slew admitting only of a comfortable fullness at the top of th M I HW4M4W44HH1 bottom upon th silk petticoat worn under them. Skirt a a rul are aevercly plain, evening Jupee even conforming to this mandate. When trimmed at all the I confined to the foot two toned combination carried out In cloth of one color and trimmed with a lighter or darker shad of tlia seme material. In the Bole promenade lately X have noticed two distinct styles of coat the very long basque charmingly cut to form almost a shapely tunic over the skirt and a coat with an exceptionally short basque, No medium length Jackets were to be seen, but all fitted the figure closely, ajuat Pretty pro-Prot- rT w! at-wi- ,.,n,rr to" stranger, catoh-Wend.,,- t,f ,k Swrsl . th elr Fertslen and that toeir way in one ef tM rn"r1 t0 -- ihm ,nl' ' M,e. wind to jV!.. ttavaf ' trlst rawlalne were exquisite-- h to toetr clothes ta "Hearted, but t " w"wd to have ac- r.. . thr to-r- f" rreh ta omen Rue tost Ur.U is has vn,hJn "w but thee tory were cut on th rd es-nt k l wd ,jrint to Jrraey Lily, rlw' ,he straight tho WOlflC wor" 'htl y laced. It ,n4 long abdominal " tots style ..h' e m.-s- s. J . "i I'm, M C beginning to fr the revolution.adopt.A crn,ra explained Pw mir e!!!0,T' fvnirtm for Information wr,ra V discovered cnrt btoh all are Vt H? ? ' new bodices are 'I1 fnU'ldatfo having tomed. but "',fU"y V ap,d ovr tola lining Khmi'drr effect. ' rxresslve fullness Ms JTP' arm. This mede will In ell probeblHy be adopted by many fhir Fsrlslerne who ore proud of their good line end certs Inly no style can show a pretty figuro to better advantage lha a rot princess rs Te revert to the subject ef sleeve, not even they do not droop anywhere, at tht fluff, and w ban daooratflo fit-It puff tucks or shirring ere closelyfeh-loted to the arm. It Is an absurd au but elbow sleeves will be worn arc winter on coats and gown thataerv-tce. not intended for actual everyday er the Paquln la Insisting uponthan which length ef march nans la mors awkward ar unbecoming to the arm. Umbrella skirts made with a number of gores shaped almost t a the waist tins are accepted models of Junes hv the season. These doth and !; their seams stitched twice materlaMhe fiat. When mads ef thin f gores an often put together or ribbon. There to no doubt stout the popularity of the e,rcn,.,r to although the all round ptaltl n4 of plaits do more, group aesm darting from the wall smart. still are a deep yoke the skirt decoration a does, tight effect Thto a great flare at tha feet line. cer-reet- ty n, three-quart- No', ,h. Is modleltly imperative. f nee skirts lined, and thy drpe..d tn el froufrou and -e thrlr I.r..it-- 1 Pug symbol of power, divine wisdom, purity, candor, innorenee and chastity. Red represents Hr It Is therefore symbolic of passion, power and riches; hence kings and the powerful rubes of the earth wore rod mantles. It to also emblematic of hardnnes and cruelty, being the color worn by tbc executioners of old end by the members of the Inquisition. Blue denotes fidelity, sweetness, loyalty, a spotless reputation. With the enrlsnlB yellow denoted glory and fortune. Now It in called tha color of infidelity and shame. How I it that yellow has become the emblem of Infidelity, perfidy and misfortune? Because Jew were forced to wear yellow during the mid-liag's and the house doom of traitors were smeared with the yolk of egg Green I the color of hope and Joy and the emblem of youth. Black dennts sadness, rink denotes health, youth, pleasure, love. Violet Is the color to faith. Orange means divine Inspiration and poetry. The muses are all represented dad in orange colored draperies. Orange was also the coloreol-of Hymen. Brides once wore orange ored vrlls called fluniwum, and they could not pronounce their vow unless covered with the flammeum. ten-deni- es line and take the form of rut out applications of doth of or contrasting ton under the skirt material, which to out away to show tha assign. This adornment to much smarter than braiding, but the totter to much employed. As to the materials that go Into the making of tbs winter gown, broadcloth ef the Idealised soft and pliable finish which- - has been brought to perfection by tha manufacturers to still the favorite ter drossier suite, it comes in all the new shade exquisite tones of plum, deep rich purples and charming gross toning from hunter to an oUv and a light shads of covert which bids fair to to vary sx elusive and stunning. Gray covert doth, a shade beloved of Englishwomen, a atone gray, to also a fashionable dear, color in doth for coat and skirt frock The new herringbone suiting are stunning, especially those in gray tones. Voiles era still In high fkvor in both heavy and light mesha and mohairs he vs taken a renewed lease of life for shirt waist suit Although t.tinxcaMe effects in cloth ars not in lirt fashlns there wjll bs area lots of ed For street wear thto season the hats must match tbs gown If the waerer to to be considered at all smart, but for evening the black hat. usually In vel7A&XSIAX AUTTOlf HATS. vet, to having another day of revived glory. As to color one has only to fashionable dainty cravat are worn with the teller ' study the shadea of the made under embroidered collars. Tiny clothes to bs posted. The chief favorites taffeta bow throe or four, according promise to be the various tints of to tha height of tbc of graduated green, russet brown, heather and pur- -' shades ef the eatre color, are arranged pi also a new shade of blue which to one above the other and ret closely tosomething between a royal blue and a iulFt. This new color is not especially gether beneath the chin. I either le blond or brunette. Calling not im- ego upon a ruovaUe- n-- ck - i pears in the person of Frturo Fuersh-u-berthe Ll. tost uf m household. He is f ;.. by the j chief chamberlain, the chief master of the bun!, the rhii-fcs- t cupbearer, the lord high steward and the other high court officials all arrayed In their magnificent uuifornta. They pace forward slowly with stately steps, full of the dgntiy derived from their vicinity to the Imperial person. After another interval comes the etuperor In his full parade uniform as cotninandrr-tn-chH-f of the German army, with a plumed helmet on his head aud a golden hilled sword hang-luat his aide. The golden spare on hi high military hours clink as he steps along the parquet floor. At his right side walks the empress In n low cut dress aud a long train which-iborne by eight Juvenile pages, all of aristocratic birth and all dressed lu velvet. Immediately behind their majesties follow the emperor's aides da ramp, the officers of hla military suite, the ministers of state, the right administrative officials, all Ja uniform and in court dress. Behind them follow the crows prince and crown princes, with their own attendant and suite, and then all the other prince and prlucesse with their attendants and suites This procession start at th Swiss Hull and proceed around throe aids of the palace to the White Hall, passing through ten chambers on the way. In the first of these chambers are assembled th guasts of tbs very highest rash, 1 th next those of leaser rank, end so on down the various grade which am ao carefully observed ia Germany. A th emperor and empress enter each room every man present bows ao low that the trunk of hla body stands at right angles to hia legs, and the ladle curtsey until It seems that they must all fall sprawling o tke floor. Wbe their majesties enter the White Hall the eight at aix or seven hundred man and women simultaneously deep making than obeiaanors is a nevarto-be-fo- r gotten a spectacle. At ball the emperor does le not dance because It would be in with the Imperial dignify for him to encircle any waist with hla royal arm. It would be a grave breach uf etiquette for any one to take his departure from the ball oefur the emg a . com-patlb- peror. Datactlvea Search Psdigreae. A rigid social censorship la exercised on the attendance of persona at th imperial court, which ia the moat xclusiv In th world. The first ia good birth or a high punk er Una in th army, navy or at at sl (Continued on Page Fourteen.) but It Tbs Weantnar of Different Colors. Colon have a language of their ow Whit for Instance, which to a reunion of the seven primitive color Is the dto-.Y- todies opera glaseea, J-- sr his, so that There are very stringent regulations regarding the dress which must be worn the presence uf the emperor. sae kaiser ini&riul.'.y compels his Officerin of and navy must guee's io wait tor hint ou such occa- invariably the army apear in full parade unisions. frtqurn'l.v as lung as fi flees or twer.i nnnu'.es. Two herald thru form with their swords dangling at their and wearing on iheir advani'e tout tin dirivtiou of the breastslft allsides, their orders, decorations k.User, private spantueuts and take and of suit, high medal, kltnlsu-rup their stand mi ti:hvr side of the dis'i ; hronak which the emperor will administrative official, and geutlcmea who move in court society ate obliged to appeer In court civilian dree consisting of the hiack cutaway cost, Mark knew breeches, silk stocking aud buckle shoes. The hat to this costume la a queer, d structure surmounted by a plume, and the waUtcoal is cut away like that of an ordinary dress suit. All male person who do unt belong to high society, but who happen to be in the preseuoe of the emperor for any particular occasion, are couiMtid to wear full drew suit with 11 hat, patent leather loots and white tie. If, fur instance, the emperor ie present at a meeting of i.000 men. every one of them would have to wear a dress suit, eras if M went at V o'clock hi the morning. If the emperor visits a photograph etudio the photographer does a dress suit to receive him. Women a re obliged to appear at the imperial oourt la extremely- low cut dresses displaying the largest possible proportion uf their bodily ebartu The cut must not be rounded, but must he square and the shoulders must be absolutely bare, with the exception of two supporting bands. If ladies who go to court do not conform with this mnilutloo they are simply turned out When the emperor attends a gala performance at the Royal Opera house, the same regulation bolds good, and It often happens that ladles do not come ia dresses cut low euough is conform with the regulations. Bpectal attendants ars on duty for the purpose of examining the costumes of the ladies, and those who are not sufficiently exposed are refused admittance at every gala psrtormanre. Ladles enter. The master of the ceremony who have thus been turned away thru appears In a gorgeous braided from the doors may be seen in the uniform, and bearing hia wand of of- corridors cutting strips of their dresses fice with which be strikes the door to reduce them to the neoessary level. three limes. This is the sign that Court Ceremonial. the emperor ie at hand and a moment The pomp and erremosy displayed later hia majesty become visible, at formal court fund Iona ars Imposmarches briskly into the room, ac- ing In the highest dsgrea. The prinknowledges the profuse bows of hia cipal stale functions take plaoe In the guests with a slight incl in si ion of hia White hall of (he Imperial palace of imperial head and Ukea bis cent Close Berlin, a large hall over 100 feet In upon his heels follow those of his length, 60 feet ta width and 40 feet military, naval and personal auite high. The majority of the guests aswho are doing duty for this occasion. semble In the While hall, but others No one at the imperial table may assemble In ten other chambers Inbegin to eat or drink until the kaiser cluded In Uie same auite of state aparthas set the example. No one Is al- ment. Distributed throughout these lowed on any pretense whatever to toe chambers the guests await the ap household. Apart from this vast array of aria toe rule satellites the emperor has an eaeluaive military suite, a naval auite, and a secret military cabinet, cousin! Ing of two generals, two colonels, live other offlrera. majors and forty-tw- o Another department is the secret civil cabinet of the emperor, headed by his excellency Or. von Lucanu. The medical suites of the emperor consists of at the German court. iskt-- 1905. have to r, niatu .at, dm round thethey table Lin! the ku:r enters the room, man to do honor to 1.1 successful rival. walkd up to Coiiitimdure Plant and addressed some friendly surds to him. Commodore Plant no: ouly kept his hat on his head, hut j.;- - as the kaiser addressed him gave . d rakish tilt. With hi hat askew hl1 hia hand thnisi deep in his i uvi eis pockets Commodore Plant to the friendly and contplmiticsr) words y three physicians. The empress has her consisting of a chtcf-es- t mistress, a chief mistress and half a dosen mistresses, .11 of whom are princesses and countesses, besides aa chiefest master of the household. master of the household, a master of ceremonies, a vice master of ceremonies and a medical auite. Eaeh one of the kaisers six eons has also his own household and his own suite of attendants, though on a smaller cl Titled Flunkeys at Hla Beck. These high noblemen, of course, sre not permanently in attendance, but the kaiser Is slwaftrs surrounded by a large group of them wherever he goes end whatever he does. When he rises In the morning a number of them are in waiting in the anteroom of his to carry out hia wishes. When ha rides out they follow hint in the order of their rank. One of them the kaiser to mount his horse and another affixes the stirrups. A third carries the kaiser's overcoat and a fourth a spare handkerchief for his majesty. The emperor Is thus con- - 8, Pepelar Kmbreldrrlea. squirrel ta to be fkahlonabl winter, and the coat lllu trated ta one of tha latest mode carried out In thto pelt. It has a ihrt basque skirt. The I nose front Is i specially emart cut with square revet GRAY falling bark ta reveal on undervset f soft toned gray cloth flnirhed w-- t fumy galleon. Tin- - drop satis licit la of gray sail, anti lb coat Is finished at the thrus and waist with huge smulied pearl but ton How loeka Are Hade. When you see a range of pretty slock and collars In the shops you seldot trouble to think how thi y sre made, at yet hours and days of researrh amid ol patterns herald their coming. The woe bestowed upon them Is coriKidi-rtbl- i The old open patterns that tt geiu-rthin before the last spent so much trou ble In rutting nut ard sewing roun train figure an many cravstte ends sty on many collars, and the Uue designs a today ars carefully chosen and artim.1 tn a fault Whether hand wrought e machine mad the beauty of tn? re signs assert themselves. Tlio turn linen rollers find groat fnvor until r th name of Ethel Hnrryir. w. but they nr good nerlcs. Turn bark crffi err a worn, but they luiv me drawbar!! th-. they aro closely iillb ta li:OM: th-Pcir.-ar by our parlor maid bhwrvi I most daintily and the yokes to OU tn the tetri nectn , Thi bodice are particularly smart turn down collars in Swire mus lln are embroidered In the fluent su cilery. i hfr-'C- 1st talkie gets. Invisible rets ere much worn. Tb-- J t ti end trim keep tits hair of wearii- away with the extent- To give tin vellv t a ytt-aheat effect tti' y must be worn loos uot strelcbtd tight. t tn-a- e-i- d t Uew HlsMf Delias. Brodcrie ang1r. or eyelet embroidBroderie engine te shown with the still vcr? mu,Jl Ms thing, and ery. most of ail ever embroideries and new blouse designs, and bend embroidMouses-m- d blouse pattern ai fiuuncltigs are ot this order. The heavy ered vveryuhuv, aie also popular. nii.erl ... 1 I |