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Show Long lines heavy ahd embroid ery in and pas shades these confec tions unique i erase 5TTCH m now nWi gowna was surely never known, and the ureal wonder ao many entirely different and klnda have been created the word linen la appled Vo hundreds of different weavea of the Has. Tha fashion alerted aoma two or three la fact, linen gowns have never been quite out of date, and tailor gowns of linen have alwaya been consid-ere- d smart, but the very enpenalva and elaborate yawns Introduced two summers bio, and which now ana In aurh demand, an not to be confused therewith. When the practice of using lace and embroidery on linen began It was a fad, nothing more, put forward, es It were, tentatively In order to tent popular opinion. The gowns were me a rule unllned. end, aa linen la conceded to be the oooleet of fabwhen an except Ion ally eooi eummer ric, waa forthcoming the fashion hung bra. Then came the erase for wearing the thin-neof lingerie era! ate In winter, and, presto! no further thought waa given aa to whether It was to be a eool nr a hot sum' mer thin, cool gowns must be worn. The nuly poealble yielding to comfort la to be aeen In the coat, short or long, that le now a part of the costume, whether the waist bn of linen to match the skirt or on the lingerie oniar, .Many, In feet most, of tha elaborate styles of linen coottunes are extremely x- -' pensive. The work on them Is of the most expensive order; often real lace ia used, and. If not tha real, then some high priced Imitation. There can be no stinting of material. Tarda and yard of lac If hand embroidery be used, then Just aa much of ft aa possible, ao that In fact there la little plain material to be assn. Sven the un- initiated Individual can discern at a glance that die gown Is necessarily a costly one. , Irish lace used with linen la nwat effretire, and tha loose fitting coats with tha hands of Irish burn ewtrrdeux are moat attractive. The renaissance lac la ' also used. The bands of lace eutredeux on the skirt are elthar In long lines or pnt I around the skirt fust ebova the hem. The coats differ la style. Thera ars the loose 1 half fitting, the fitted long ones, the half, and any sum-fitting three quarter length bolero Jackets, her of short box coats and an of wbfoh afford any amount of opmr--t em- -t much laee and use of unity far the broidery. at ' dm' Linen wm guifwelax On both heavy and lightweight linen! the days of the all enveloping, moat there la an Irnmnus quantity of fine hand hideous duster and of what was known work, the eyelet holm and the old SngUali aa the natural linen suit. The material, of embroidery patterns being if poealble the! moat durable quality, h must be contested, moat fashionable for Che heavy Unena. On was ceally tumbled or stained, and, while Che handkerchief linens and all those of; It would wear for many seasons without light weight or fine texture the rather- going to pieces, never looked well, exrrpt-heavlembroidery is used, with medal- Ing, perhaps, for half an hour after It bed Ilona and entredeux of the finest Imlla- - been laundered. Smell wonder, then, that tlon or real lace, valen demits for the the linen travelling dress did not enjoy moment being In great, It may be mid the sanction of popular opinion for any greatest, demand, although a very fine length of time, and waa relegated to the quality of guipure la thought very smart. necessary and hideous styles that were only endured because nothing better was BARGAINS IN EMBROIDERED GOWNS. offered. Mont remarkable bargains in the The linen travelling gown of y Is a bpnlilared linen gown or robes, ea they are moat attractive costume. To begin with, leadare now then to ba found In all the no end of charming colon end oui)ed ana ing drops. Three are beautiful specimens shades of color that are In style, and the different in which they are made models a of hand work and marvellous of sample tlw fine work done by machine. Thera are up make K almost a crime to choose anyThere are blues, open work and solid designs aa well, and thing unbecoming. the quality of the embroidery even more rnsuvra. grays, tana. Ac., aa well as mixed many Itself than the linen designs that look well made is what determines up In the pleated skirt that fits close about the prior. Aa a rule fhe style la much the same for tha hip and 'then flares becomingly all, the waist on the eljlrt waist order around the foot. There era long fitted with embroidery In front and on thr coat and loose ones, short fitted, close sleeves, the skirt with the front embroid- fitting Klons, and loose pleated ones with ered with bands of embroidery at the lilted yokes over thr shoulders. Them last sides, around tha hem and on the sleeves. are either plain or trimmed with lace, In the lighter weight linens and linen while the former tthe long ones) are on batistes are to he found the embroidered the tailor made order with strapped seams flounces, the flaring skirts fairly covered and are extremely smart. In dark linens with embroidery In aoma graceful flounc- these make most useful gowns for a days ing design and with a waist that can ba trip to town, and the addition of white worn either day or evening with the ad- lingerie we 1st. and collar and cuffs of white dition of a guhnpe. linen or embroidery gives a more elaborate There was a time many yean etnee effect and Is most becoming. when travelling waa not ae universal a The ideated skirt continues to ba mast custom and when to start off on a Journey popular, but the keen observer of dress great preparations were made Those were will notice that Its popularity Is too great, I er to-da- Vffinr, UHEN COAT and that already the newest and morel for many years. In It natural color so--1 art the more- elaborately trimmed with expansive models are made with circular- called pongee la not universally becoming, medallions and- entredeux of lace, while mors ex pensive owe their fascination skin or oa..HU newer lines. An es but it may be questioned If there everjtha 1 peels lly attractive model has rows of tuckaj was an awful a material, aa it docs not1 to the quality of tha material used and de- or laundered; tha perfection of cat and fit that la above the hem or a band of embroidery, show dirt andean be denned whlto on a dark ground. Just around the but at the moment fashion decrees that mended of them. hem, and then the waist or short Mat colors aurh aa red. brown, blue and, above F or midsummer the white pongee coats haa bands of the embroidery around fhe nil, green are smarter than the natural and skirts will be great favorites, and arc cohir and are made up In all styles. The made on precisely tha asms lines as the nock and the sleeve. gown that la niadn with simps over the linens, only the proportion of tha more PLAITED WAIST POPULAR. shoulders, with lingerie waist or with severs models In pongee Is far greater than An extremely popular coat model In coat to match tha skirt, cither In short In the linen. made-ulinen that is both In the plain iboX rM.t style or in some short fancy PONGEE COOL AND SMART. the embroldocvd qualities has the! Is a great favorite and Is quite: Kmbmldered pongee gowns are very st or with full attached akirt elaborate. waist, plaited and shaped bell. It la to be found In sol Thws Mf0 mgny charming pongee tractive, both the openwork and the many of the ready made gowns that the gowns on thr more severe tailor made heavy embroidery on the fabric Itself, but first smartness haa worn off. and yet U order, and the plaited skirls wlih waists-therhave been so many machine with some modifications especially to match are on the shirt waist pattern, broidered pongee that somehow the faah-i- f mode In the embroidered linen Isa great and yet the lingerie yoke and cuff give! inn haa not yet become a popular fad. In flavorlte. One thing In Its favor lies In the a flnl,h that much more elaborate. All1 the palest of ahadna the pongee gowns are fact that It Is a generally becoming fah-th- e different shades of red pongee are exquisite In coloring, and are made up with hm, and also that It la not so difficult of j fashionable, a deep cerise being especially quantities of lace quits on the order of accomplishment aa the plainer and morel popular. The sk'rt Is not trimmed, save the taffetas of Uie same oolor. They arc severe designs. with folds, tucks nr plaits of the same far cooler, and for midsummer will be Pongee Is another material peculiarly material, hut tha waist or Jacket must more possible, but If economy haa to be adapted to warm weather; Indeed, It will alwsya have considerable white or the consulted, ba It remembered that pongee be remembered as an Importation from cream tint in order to make It smart. ia only for summer wear, whereas taffeta India, where Its use has been well proven Oddly enough the cheaper grad of gowna j can do duty for summer and winter alike. - j i .1 jm-ko- t. I I ! In the same category with pongee linen arc the mohair (owns. that so most practicable for warm wralher. M b halr, however, can never be made t I: such elaborate fashion as would mike euch itfk possible for garden parties or entertainment, and hi w of moat elaborate stage of development cm ba only the emartest of tailor gowam waist Bqsnetlmea it la mad up In skirt to match, and this year the rule ever before, but aa a the one chosen- A coat style mohair costume ia delightfully smrif other yachting, tennis or any color sport; a black or darkwear In cool sum' travelling or general useful. days la delightfullynumber of now wem-aThere ore any In stripes and olm' design m'-- 1. of light weight and Charming texture that are most or narrow. effect. Banda of taffeta, eokxs plaiting of taffeta In eolld for the most fashionable trimmings either fmk designs, .while for the plain the same or bands of Persian embrown on vaifti or Jacket wt or - 1 out-o- nd EMBROIDERY, RIBBON WORK AND APPLIQUE ON THE COMING PARASOLS. ruffsA puffed, tucked and pi embrower of The somewhat crowded out that one tlrmrvF ular form of decoration. band pahun lto aome of the fine parasols, however, ' It Is well done still seen. Uni much of an offence that only work should be tolerated, and tnai a , oourse, exceedingly costly. Aa to slick and handle, the vaiwu or equal to that of the coveringssrane wrm With the lingerie parasol wood la correct for the hrdle. rw silk and chiffon sunshades enesmay have as free fang as very permit. Jade handles are and are in keeping with the of kind of decoration. In nm the hanfl'M"of costly parasol ornamented with various kinds ' precious stones. hmuc.h ounshlna wilt fan this myriad flocks and shade parasols woadrously and betrlnimed. There parasols, but one will look them. Decidedly ornate Is in a peculiarly decorative season sat, feature of woman s wardrobe. Nat-- orally tbs cost la in proportion to tbs emamsMatlon. and In tbs shops one may to dldO for a gausy sunsliade wap from and still bave one of only modest pra-- tensions to elegance. There la however, one saving phase of the season' styles, the clever needlewoman la Is possibleforforherself at comparatively 40 make Bmnii expense what would atmnet bankrupt her had aha to pay (or ao elaborate a outer covering. - STUMER ", P"; 1 ' ' ttP, . creation. In the effort to obtain new decorative ffeoto several kinds of old time embroidrevived, sod these are used ery have been on the new parasols. LeadooMqdoumisly Is tha ribbon emhrnid- -' ing In popidaritr year ago en- -: sry which almost a scorebutof has been little, joyed great popularity, This work hn the eqeft in recent seasons. parttculnrly showy inj advantage of bring amount ex- labor of to (he proportion pended. It I elmpl also, and any on .are quits effective in outline, all hough cnnJ who know oven a little of embroidery captaining Utils Mad. This rrhlsrn einhr!d-- : ery is used for th most part on alik or do It with fair success. In any Taney work tha material are sold such In- - pongee paranoia Atmt tw.i an.l shop where atruedon can be given In hn'.f nn lanir nn. yards O! silk Is rvquin- l :ln, a ,h;ie i,., ", will enable one to embroider a raras.il In. whler pKiierlals. It ; p,,Mlti- - tr emluo-ilcrose or morning glories wHh very good simple pattern on a parasol already IIM,le deoonutlva results. Of course fur those up. but If one wishes to hiv , ,ailr w4m era not prcla11y ekllled In embrold- - any msker of pa rj sols or'iimhrelf--, J wn ery strap! design ohraild be chosen, and cut th seetluns to ie cmbrolib-- v I i.la ft la very easy to find those of a kind that: make them up afterward ; u CWt of a,ut SSebO. Anothrr form of rmhmMery which ha1 not recently hero sen, t.lit use of to extent this year! This I. used onsiikiliU' My lady's face Its delicate, firm lines on thinner fahnes. Somewhat similar to it Bet In a sweep of dusky, loosened hair. . " re t!ie chiffon fluwf-r- s which Tho dainty chiselled chin, sweet, subtle P4" " seme of tlie most olabonie uf' mouth When these bave taught you she ' ! :i r fair, Whes yon have caught eaoh mnim i ,i. changsful grace, n not that you have learned my lady's v.i,tw,,'!LY : I". "!1. "'j,'1 " r m Sha h s sou f,,r h" rn'"r 'cier.v. : con-tive- Wi para-istalk- I J8tJQ-JgXSJ(-w- Q? . . -l d-- sp-r;- I lh s'lk and eh'ff-parasols there are' many other k'rda of ncr lle w rk th it can 1 .1 Iis.-HdianUkr, Tu-k- -. e!;hrr by I or In ('aoiilni'.loti with wr-l- i V""M ifj l1J I ; ' i.i thr l fr:n of trlinnilng, nr exlremely n,r"UHy l p!piilnr . In a.l work u:H In th,-- fashloinnlr. . Itutltes ,.f the ami!- - malerl il Xor ever yhall. for in my lady's eysa r(llS, I an n! V. 'hf ""irk Wrralhs nr l,r oomrasiing vor-- r are lo so.no of fiomethlng to lure and baffle still sh.ii Ml whl-dwell. In h lv'ltlet of tha season's parasols. 1 the aenses rlth It swift ffeoM'hlte Tc T parasol are by far the most ti,.etTmoisinjtwTnlr' And haply In l momer.u t'irprts, p;lh,,', I'MIn cr reilevel hy r.i'.or L .I1 - formr,, of Inf,1l,lnr' How wondrous purs anl strong a spirit'd--or- a harder the tr'rnm.ng. An sll ! itr-r,h, br"ilf'11 itrwlf and gives w'. K -, hadow enshrjied, p !r my A -. costum. but it is eytiRACE WODALE. Lad.t;on :o lh2 p,,n ynr ,hl reason a thin s ,k,',n- - ,n free uito. oa lining of color is doelra.ile, if ,t , not rev-all- rg t Ingly no end. To linen gowns Are heavy linen aun-.pi- 4 ". ooca .shades, embroidered in conventional de--! attention than an ' t signs In the English or bT!!. Prom'salt. eyelet style. this to the fluffiest things oflnce and gauae In buying h shoff? I the tav ys there ars all gradatiun. Linen ia by fnri select. If ym sewj rsW In thelrnat the must deslralil material for these s. sids. whether light or heavy. Not only cornea to th cooking. does It look well In th beginning, but it 'remember that jts sri 11 ean b cleaned over and over again. Thai way of y tw cotton may look well at th start, but service en branch. p they at far more perlshsbl. However, as All the new aapnrsgu gs. the are transitory things at the beat, one wsy (and their name are may prefer to save the difference In their' saucs boat, rack ana trar oat and get a few weeks' pleasure out of u Hamcetcad ASr ce!2 the pretty mercerlx-- d sunshades with their uwrr brought up on n can Those fliiffy trimmings. exceed in Nothing tho old fsehlonvrayth'" ggg nainsook with their trimmings of Valen r.vor of the vegblr ciennes lace and French embroidery. of the rialks lnt pdllnf- iquiie so f ishinnsble. Ilreen Is good for the The embroidery on the lingerie parasol portions cook bd I eye4, but a fn'r: rose tint Is more hr- j done In mercerised cotton floes, whether When tff,1wtt The lompadourione uses the openwork design Or the solid water to cover.with jnwiing lu the UlSrid and all. land Dirsili-- silk mike exiri-nn-lpretty: patterns. It is far easier to work on liquid on sens sunnlimlrs for s.immer ue end requlrej material of this kind than on silk, so that croam and ornamemailun thsn those of solid, if one Intends to decorate several parasol deep dishea. n i color. Fried Asp Inserts uf l ice are usel In ihese In; It would he well to begin with one of 1 are many afforded ivarlou. way. T little Very protection lingerie. Boll the large W lscd materials wT.h-are as dainty In I by a while parasol so coverrd with pry I ms silks and cist only a fraction work embroidery that the eunehine may usual way, dip V cmmhs bread sifted ! as much. fall through a thousand apertures. It Is Ilk a croquette. 8oILrf f ck In a l.ngirie lingerie hats and! better, therefore, to have In these, aa In la eaten waisiv arc so strong a feature one would! the white al'.k. a thin silk lining, which paragus Gruy grated with branche. "expect to find I'.ngcr'e parasols, and ofimsy be white or any shade preferred, melted butter. as almost are .ilu-inumber and variety there la seem-- ! 1 flume linings, by the way, j - IN ASPARAGUS TIME MAppy the suburbanite den boasts an asparagus bed, )(? the ply green shoot part or soil in late April delights to blngera of vegetable tedm asparagus an started One InWei, ,y''' 111 y ; open-iii.iMc- -n ft i J1 |