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Show THE SC3TDAY MORNING EXAMINER, APRIL" 30, 3905. THE PICTURESQUE AND PRACTICAL CONJOIN TO MAKE MY LADY'S WRAPS A JOY FOR SUMMER AFTERNOONS AND jcxgnooocQoocaonooocnJcooPOoocnooocnocoonoaxjacxocnooocnacooaocxscnocxgncxxacn . . gxiKncxx;D3cnooooooocx:cocooaor)ccnaofxncnocn EVEMXCS cxxx:noocicnaoocnaoocaocDccj3ocooocoooA: n-- " c linen eoatumea. trimmed wits Irlah lace, Inferior designs or with materials 1 there la ao little linen ueed In the coat aa comparatively inexpensive. The am all flehue. pelerine, and to give the appearance of He bring en. tlrely of the lac, and exactly the game that are la any sense of the wont S?' effect is to bs noted In the r.lk and aee are most attractive rhie elniL"i!V, garments. Chantilly and the fiae French, chiffon, silk net lace end feathers it laces are not suitable excepting for the, very much to the finished aupeiwTir most elaborate at vie of wrap, and theejmart gown and ara mort bcomln are mode up over chiffon. The black over' fichus with pinked rurhingr nr whit ehnwr the pattern of the lara to made to era in front and with hi. can be deft to fall to hemV"? greater! pnarlhle advantage, while nnderlthat Irktrt at the baric ara worn the white pole pink or blue do the arm. with of even klnda and three ara also made aa trt--T gowna, Comblnlng two or lac In the on wrap la very atnart, and It; fur evening gowns. Tlie fashion nsW is strange how much more effective laceej turerqua and very afractive are when made up In thla way. although) the hat Is In the earns colorin. . V IndtviduaUi cry gown gaina new virtues and addld here again conaervatlv i out at the desecration and contend that If, tlon. aa AU black taffeta Poets ace atm be treated ehould It beautiful ia luce ; such and not in any way combined with- able and amart. These with Conaer- tnrka and Neats, and wl-nn . anything else, even In contrast. vstism In this age of the world muat the moment, of to the caprice needs how tt'k however, and ao the moat roatly of laces are slashed Into and made up with vastly I1 I i0 j i I h Sir Mrs. Asior as a Housekeeper. the undisputed leadR3. ASTOR. er of New York' exclusives, haa on title that ah value above evra that of social dictator. As absolute ruler of the pomp and ceremony of the gay world aa seen In the American metropolis. he haa gratified her hlgheet public ambition. Her nod can make or unmake the lnvarhly at A etrok . moat daring climber of them all. 'of her pen and social damnation may result! Her every a mile carries with it an augury of aurreaa. Her wish la the open aesame" to dnora sealed to all other approaches. In a word, she Is supreme, and fBr nober hour h age cannot wither her. the doubt and cavillings of tho envious to the contrary faaia while she goes over her notwithstanding. that needlmm. Thla la Mrs. Aator aa aha la known to 1h lint of the clct and tha Kmiw Hat ar un h lwwl1 wonld-be- a begging letters M In society. But to a small circle SrrarBsS2S5 ISSsTtf1" garment ef all materials anil included In the fur thl. summer, without exciptiun aver)' mrmpnt of tliia cr In attractive Ilia difficulty a. choo-In- a what la possible merely from .lie yens aide of (he question la cxceedlngly 0TT3IDE s, Win-,-- ... s. S S s " brllevera In the adage that we should thodie.1 hw r to have many well w letters but few friend fBr ber n Fbb Mr. Aator the hotter wlfs la the other nine she to at thctosik. side or the plrture. And. granted Iter genmet in nvetr mvM k suavity, eralship In matters of state, her Ator fref''rrin lllfflvlllt. her savolr fatra. ull that has contributed takeTTn V' ha el her comptiioi which There never waa a apaaon w'nii ihei-pdomination m to the personal room. ,raakftst""finny --Th warp ao miny models fir coat anil sk!rt so long and ao cleverly hrld her subject bill of far of the lightest to match, au many different nrttcrml In chock, it I on the womanly aide that Arior has no 2? GREY CLOTH ronuhlered suitable for tlUa design. On; Mrs. Astor la at her best. od" M decllnra ccisili ff ara the other hand, titer many more' ny kind. Eggs in different THE LINEN CLOSET. ynwni inada with walal and aklrt to malrh OCCarionsllyjJ rIlnfor over which airnie wrap muat be worn, j emit Inure to be popular. The ahprt Jacket. The anmnter evening wrap to be worn Her home la hrr real kingdom, and she rtmpa, with coffer and roll. ronsliiuwZ fitting to perfection around the ahtiuldi'ra over the auninter evening gown la an exAulomobillng and lh naae that rxlii' her hand. wmt of her desires. .Mtv Astor of hollow in It the holds literally abw-lanfur all out of duor aporta make It with, the fuhiena lii'luw, either In quisite creation and In Ita wuy itulte ua Khe knows all of II processes and controls hours upon th ItaWlreaacr, the wotn a or plcatei la an especially effective elnbnrate and expenalce aa the Winter Imply essential that there ahull be an of( tn manicure and th train them. 8he has her representatives, that lonee In or ; gar-of nutrr and Unite variety wrapa practical designs lace, for the jacket opera cloak. Velvet and fur are tulmoed course. In every department of the house-- i neeTTr?" ' sooth. S3 menta which rnn lie donned at will, in. part cun He lined and then the hem left aa nnaraKonalilp, hut In other reapecta t. I every directs who too she It hut hold, many hours' dlaslosttoL accordance with phaterer state of the trim .parent, nr there can be a light Bilk there la little difference, and the rxpenae T,i tlie Imagination thr queen ef Jr itllC who iiiuMt aurely.be the panic excepting where weaihrr may prevail. For the light wrap. lilting throughout. rare all and velvets In her service each 1,1,111 splendid society, a ' Veiling wrapa and tnantlea are juat (ha sable or rrnilne opera rlouk cornea aa toilet of her mlKlresa. with appears Jewels, lace and sparkling ao at Itrat. or arc triite In aeein cenfeettnna lace eccentric, into quvstiou. gowna nf lingerie , they ihc simply garbed chatelaine, whoso waist oil or the early tasks Is that of and allk, while for the evenlnga. are tlielthe malerinl being ao thin and light that taTSZ is encircled by the cord on wtiirh hang the wr her bills. Mrs. A.bw moat fjaclnating wrapa, which while neceaalty a lining la required. Chiffon ABbiiUAN I AlATtslAL IN wKArh. chest, bills, and makes it a point to keys of Ihc llnrn closet, the silver ia here again, the tinder tlie aame category, aa dora The long, looae in mile parently ao llarht and thin aa lo os nu thn china pantries and all those other wliat ahe la paying for. The etoftJs chiffon clotlj, and yet there la pool-- ! favorite model with- ahln-inaround Ihc allile prntrcthdi have In reality quite einroboHseq of her treasures In which a aenda up the menu for the day, which Nr fivlcnt warmth and aubalance. tlvcly no end to the inanlli-- and wrap!riiniili!rru with yards and yard of the Astor adds to or takes from woman's heart delights, r.. . made up In all thin fahrlca and In all thicet Lice and the nmei charming Mi 1'l.U AitllVllNLU .nnniii.L.A. Mrs. Astor docs not In reality carry the suggests. loolnre. The aceunllon pleated designs; ooioripga f chiffon liberty autln. Flow- around motif the old Is herself HER FAVORITE FLOWERS, Mantlea and mantlllea aound like atlll And fevor In them, and with thci ml Milk wrapa are also In at yl, but there keys, hut she time faslilnna and so Indeed they are. but quantitk-which the keys revolve. That linen closet After lutwheon If of material now demanded In' arc smarter mule In the tong looae covert th wealhsr ii hws an age when old time faalilona are;ai rfreaH. the accordion pleated rffccls are'effevt or (tiled at tile back, with looae Is stocked by her, stocked with tho pride thla MrTl Astor drives fnsu two to tour. In great demand, when the picturesque and! most antlafartnry. and care Mrs. Astor Is famous for her 2.' (lathered effecle are' from a. Sleeve In long wrap require to. Hite is a strong believer in tho health giv. aruceful are popular and when Itoni harder to manage, for the material soine-iilinens of one of thn shrewdest buyers Ing properties of fresh of ktrgr Mxe to prevent any Injury to sir, and walks a Fashion layo down her Inwa that the prar--.' how aeema more chunky when It la galli- - the idrevea lit Europe. All of that wonderful colof the gown that la worn under deal for exercise, finnctlaws hrr great Astor Sfrse tiral anil the picturesque ahall ha mm-erIs Itlic wrap, and In rummer the lais man tic lection of linen Imported. conattlutlonal Is taken In the rtmt bltird with an up to date amartneea that Extremely .mart are both the ahort and; without never goes abroad that she does not la more of a favorite tlinn to her home, hut mot sftra an la moat attractive and ulltiring. Tlie man- -, tong lmlf ara that Thera with-ara tahlcclotliq It. The to add mala. llnre ! tint fitting nulta her carriage in Central Park ind wrap inaile with alrrvm, no matter lira, known more often by the name of: out exception hava been In her possession for twen, descends to long and graceful, the. what may la the pile. There niuat never! walk in and hme cloak nr wrap, must hang quite Inosaisleerea wide and flowing and the materia! hr. however, any economy of material years and are still practically watch the children at the bypaths play. This k part fmra the ahoulriere, and, although fitting tight In weight and light In color combiner fur the ni.tnllr. cloak, wrap or coiit, which-- ! new. Poxrns and downs of pieces He of Mr. Astor' s charming aide. Her Im rloae around the ahouhlera. inuat hang In! to make a moat attractive garment. In ever II may be, muat la largo folded away In that vast repository In of children enough to the grandmother, ha full, loose folds. Th circular cloak, made; serge are alao eome decidedly new the big house at Fifth avenue and and In the bespeaks rover the gown. completely rtle th she la perfect-p- ot shoulder cape or without. jnat a signs, on g more revere order, however. Lure llhit hua Sixty-fift- h street, and yet nothing la over Indulgent juat whim of warn color. leal red, la a rharmingly graceful design. double bivaated, loose fitting In fnmt. at grandmother, blind to all white. Mrs. Astor less than spotlessly the real old lave, la always becoming 'or faults, but the kindest of friends and and la made up In light rlolh or allk In nil the bark half fitting, and with a belt! next the fara. no that mlllca amL contrives this with the same elaborate counsellors. jabots j across light ahadee. the bark. she devote to every detail of In the John Jacob Aator aee nrn lined wlHf greet effeoi on there that system jof house, the tin Hand of velvet ribbon are a favorite' -lelaborate evening wrapa. her housekeeping. One set la used after of her own which ia so constructed The color WHITE AND BLUE. tut. ining, or hands of Prrskn emtiroldery lachtmc ia alao carefully aludicd. and even! till all have gone their way to the a everybody knows, the two may to another r rail 0,1 a wllh collar hluc. velvet tack ''bite their again found way and Thl no and, j with to irr'iivn ,hr thrown into on fur th Astor fflea aenlw pretensions laundry hcauiy hlg hood with tassels 1. occasionally aecn.lcuffs, blue wlto red. red with red fll.n to the lavrndcr of the shelf. Fast as the or junior th social diets lor ia so eons compl.mcnla upon her hut the cloak without hood, enpe or co lsr or Ma.k are thm- - color comblnuliona, come In they ara put pletriy reinforcements in appearance when, rhavming garhe.l merged In that tender! of and with atralght bands or Persian trim- - These rnuta are also made In rlotli, lined Ni,m.. of dumly ball gown und Willi through the same routine,Is and as Mrs. that th world of fashion mlng or braid down the front and a round, with allk and with gold or silver buttons chiffon trimmed hcavllv will, (see it,. often linen long very far away while thn young perm waiting list of ' . as a of the Queer dull pinks und creams and gray; Astor' the neck Is a very amart garment If It ls;They are rather difficult garments to da- and are rule elaborate, ,!nnd to be suinr of guests list for Ihc aavctv evening's and the old togcthir. . well ent and fitted. To the uninitiated the! Ignale. Hardly In order for automobile -waiting order, fihlrrlnga and and mauve, blue and inuuvu and apple! of Bom of the person make marry (ld time plcturrsqu tlle Tar0u entertainment ,.lo,i. grandchildren are In ths grtst iiuestlon of fit when It la a bmaa garment' coats, they arc too severe ft tr elaborutr'rhig,,,, sln( tho mansion every iinmlniniis I'IJIngs galore are on all taffeta wraps, green are the smartest, although an edd, n'rpmonjr ahe throughout glvrs dosffl into to knit day seem absurd. In rsallty there la quits sa carriage or theatre wrap, and yd r,,pw ,n'1 lo01, bright and It must he admitted gencr.illy few U nerai ,1ml harmony the most intimate Joys of Mia of so arc shade is brown nmch reason for taking a lot of trouble to so much style and Individuality shout' L, u. description of elaborately unbecoming immensely she for If Astor'a life. -ltave It fitted as though It were a tight them as to make It seen absolutely , ;ntlty of the wearer popular. Ijght gnty Is a very satisfactory I11 ls Mrs Astor wmriddoubtleas lanra with s for Conservative In her taste, as In all riff, J" waist, for If there is too much fulness orlscnllsl to happiness lit possess one. They the afternoon and evening mantle and for Ig, ao to speak, completely hidden. Willi color, especially with rim touch of pink ori11" there ara only two flowers that con JuatU la almost without exception mauve through it that is so fushlounhle admit too little then Immediately la tha amart IwHI he found most useful for driving or' the kswe coat. U I hravler than chiffon ff0". v tow taMc Mrs. Astor'a preference. The am of claim If a la an flt that outer garment to maleli, either now. and If there bo the luok lost and all dress must be smart !n;a effect light summer wrap to slip on after a;aml more durable and there docs not have there th American Beauty rose and the acceaoms absurdly small wrap between cimt.of old lace ruffles 11 U a softening h; moat ltractlve,l,pr"1,in,M these days. ;gnme at tennis or g.iir. and as they, like1 to be so much of It usnd. White, cream and cape, ssion Illy. Then are the main festuis it one piece a half length loose cost or' garment. The Empire style of evening wrap, so such garments of the srvere tailor order,1 and all pale shades of blue rink the decorations at Iter halls and stau yellow "" 2LirMJ! ."SP1'?--?!hadwl The lac coals .nlirely of lace, or of loffel TJ faxhlonable this List winter, has been require to be most cnnfully fitted, they, mauve and Hut many reds that are so takes preoefor dinners. a royNty. aa as Hie plain Many of them tlie lilies these re'wlth cloth, chiffon or silk are luxuries, for Inally design altered and modified for thewill not hecomn ton popular as might be feetive this aeuson are favorite shade f nta l up and are very ffertlvo In spite ly are- brought from her Newport free or! firm. SjL lacc real cost when must wiSff the' he great aprttig and mitniner, although the model anticipated for so ranpin a model. table bouses, for they are always In bloom it j Taffeta, allk wraps are most complicated of their decidedly odd appearance. even a line imitation Is used. Wilh tbejterof Hecrhwood. and a great Jar of thm amid the palms and bronara of thn imposing toll tlie somewhat too sombre sod heavy wealth of tapestry. raw fn -- j K IWTTLE. . , d , w"h ! move-imen- ""1" thT. up-i- nf w. ; suf-ral- a ' wt-.l- i I a a. i e, aln-ve- a ty-ll- ' J ! ! I rS i put!1. riv(, ?.. , tKtnS irit iMX.th tlt 'nd .'""T ' i j i ? edi o0Jl175-,t,S?,5- THE REIGN OF THE THE FABRIC OF THE HOUR. FLAX-LIN- EN EVERYTHING IN ITS PLACE. Even ' in th Bcrchwood besattes Mra as hall thn of winter many Astor'a tenacious adherence to tlw thiiici diaphanous whlrli have; arc shown sunshades lwautlful insertion of lace mid embroidery and a gown tulle and illusions. Tha cost of a she loved when a girl is constantly trace able. The . hollyhocks that !!m ruffle nr s ruffle of tlie finest linen linen gown of such fineness, with tto d th entire side of the fence toward me course, inure to tninga of real lace such aa would be These are. for Ihc afUrinoii t!iau the plainer rseary, would oaily amount to Hirehun-th-or street are quaintly cltarmlng. Tlie art Mf c four hundred dollars, or even five gttnr of th drawing rooms echoea linen girl may also clioosc here ajdred dollars. It Is needles to say that dislike of change, a chair moved, a pw shoe and will most not form such a beloved finest gowns ure of her fabric. The very part displaced and th atmosphere of hom are linen exquisite lingerie lists ure this sea- - young women's wardrobe, and. indeed, Is lost. Mrs. Astor will have non ef to heMs. gloves, - ....... v m- of moderate fineness will b quit llrr Idea of happiness la to have a rvM em jiiado of linen. These ore In some ut ror the person mi.,(i,i.ij,.., gowns and coats for all and every n;ra- -' wanna p.ece stand out. This style of collur Is she has always known it Bo stmcl in. travelling nr who cannot hp th"e arc shown made without rvf- - ituticca (o plain as almost to resemble the ins effective end satisfactory. Th trs-- as rinn. The days when linen gowns were! to her feeling that to Impress her confined to the stiff while or tan runt suit, constantly vigilant ahnut her rlolhes dm on her hu tier's mind a rstalto to be worn in the morning nr for sporting: ing the day it 1 better in get a inaterl.il who has been In her service as long occasions. Is gone. A summer lsl dress which Is half codon nn,l half linen. There, some of her oldest china ahe has tof esn ss appropriately he miidii of Imeii as. are many such materials on the inarkei, photographs taken of th drawing W the morning shirt waist suits, thr garden which will It found to posses nlin iMi as ss pure iiiivn from all points of the compass that party frocks; in fact, ths most ehilinrstj, attractive an oppr.inm.-d a wc'.l a the simplest gowns of tlir Infinitely less of a tendency tn retain cleaning every artld might to retur1 to la original position. crease. m rr trousseau. The new linen collar to lie worn wlt.t' While Mrs. Astor Is scrupulous tajjj Fir tbs morning gown the heavy linens, hlit In the social w serve her wnlsto are tint, h longer In many batcher linens. English ar.fi those hcretofurc Th.-- ' It were, at riw to than as Stances and shnwi. hold court, French linens, too. of the lieut .er wflgr.t. fronl jM.p of muny r lhfn) hll) periods, tho formalities of Ufa hardly F l( are stdt the most fashionable or nan fHr M lld even lo low Hi.- - wais. 1'ne jpeal lo her. Her grand ball and falirics. They arc made Into coal suits. This give t.i a plain shirt wa'st the pHn.i nera during the season are part of J with long or short Jacket and with short trimming effect down the remit whl' lt i regular programme, hut her Sunday"" lor-, iuln so popular. Tks very long ealUis are, skirts. They are of miny homes" have an air of Intimate ness. A keen observer and hrillianteos'F b),:e and palf pink being particularly mode sillier of 1'giit or heavy linen, whli are ln used for shin. insertions of lace slid h.i,nl enihmidery heaiii'fal. Th'-rationalist, the hostess allows liererif ure on these occasions to enjoy her 0 w.iit sir:, which ore trimmed wdh hoivy as tile garniture. Thn1 is a liand of the linen laee or linen thread embroidery, linen around liie throat, which ia -- traiahl She has a great fondness for thio"J With these gown are worn the new linen except that it Is lioilnaeil out u I'tlle un-- . of young people- - For the rest, the p"1 nr rotor of the gown der tlie chin, in collar shape. Motifs b l.s, eithi ;' the hush of the Sabbath ia never broke viiiie. Stmse of these are decorated with luce or embroidery il me on either Pglne- -' Astor attends flt. Thomas'. Church. hind embroidery In the SAme or heavier Imrn lii.m that eiu)ilin, ii as regular In this as In all else. h'.vy ofsolid I he in'U or III enntraaiing colors, the inakKg of Ine collar are s"i !n Her gowns represent her fldelliy a hand. From fie I,,... i dse of ill" 'ri;,l, 'a v are fastened with tho largo hncklShe runs the gamut of few entota Tv.n-fashionahle this season, nr w.lh of II d pends a long p.ee.- or linen nlmu' and white to a favorite rOTbinstii l.iu' i buckle, made over'two ine'ie la wi li'i a', the :.,,i an I w de'i-v- . her costumes, and royal purpto ' ii'Mi forms. Othr linen belts are not ing gradually to a bom doulil- - this whit;, her few variations on the inar TijVl cnibi "id'ted, lint are made of two iiiall-.the isitlivn. A design Is work":l o.M Mr. Astor collection Shade.. tie. of linen or i)f two colors ur shade tn this iiiier with motifs of l.ice, straight lias been valued at Wfl.WL Hail vonstitched la e .; nrd insertions of itur r sir.ipie'd, the strips bring loua as well as costly and beauraj" g, of uouly and running lengthwise of the Ihieti. Beside this, ther"' is band cni-Jewel, her 'among splendid li. n Linen Gown, Hut, Gloves nncl Parasol. She May .broidery wf French knots, solid i irrle. famous diamond stomacher . Willi tlw coat Milt arf m'orn, of tourer. jm otlirr gromrtrlral .' mippl'nvnt-nj.Itin tih iihrr ng or Sra,- . moat conrfilcuoii. Yet she nnin.-e- . th than decoration otlicr child-ruffled ph .mesiine w,dc any ; mcndiMisly expensive qualities may. how. without affair of r.ontjfl. Pnn blouses, some of orthem of heaw.fng the lace. The bottom of this pice o' j.i.i-.-a fetich. Sh absolutely r, are and! "I (here more even others embroidery. be ruffle indulgtd in for sleeve lighter quality linen is cut off In a blunt, trianaulur shape! quality, but preferably . Wi''h l?l.Timl1tn or ir and i,re The is hand this ilvalsohivith.. linen suit. the .Tei m"V snd is finished with long embroidery year tendency than frb.xe. ll,ily wrought h f 'T,r V '?1 r .VmlLii Ilia n fr:Thi "n,hr"ilT ;'r'( doahrtlBfc hravlly trimmed with: luce be used as a decoration you will to use rather fine handkere-bb-- f aiyle of collar Is very altro-tivof i,.T V.'.nwlfe malerlal. tn lie wi.h wreaths o. cnibr.i.drry tie,, insets ilut they are not to be told a treasure that will butt for many years. change them much as she narrow lare when made of heavy linen siinwinx a tlKse blousi . Jnrerlioii " d,,m,r' nr which should he real torchon real and it may lie of Mu. natural b'ast one VfV'uoadlilbmsTo'li'r iron' .iielrn"e tuck ami emnroldi ry arc the color decorated in white. ir ni, yj,c Th decoraiinn for these also most at!:ari;v. ni.idc aiid son n is waists. It white. primly;:! lic.irv w lists don In solid emliroub.ry are. to go slih a shirt wait su.t of the same e'lihrolden c gown there Is inec which may not eo fashionable as they were, as he material. Another no' anl beer, icng: Here Is ' machiiie ma.l" waists of this model imong this sprlnx I'ntn slocks is enibroidcn lAncns which isoiiiy of e vnicn.irn cost from too universal s of two kinds or i;n. n. on nf whi-- h nmusly ei M ' ' nl. nceording to arc shown will ho much used, as they are Astor knows Ks whereahou tincsl grades ure too conspicuous to be In very good taste, ibis lacs keep Hi aeeret vari-color- jf - ltce-usi- -- reguk-titrat- e , sum-'an- : ,. her) W" -'- ri it rr em'i-nlder- ".,,? , lli b' Wir , - .' n-- I C '"e . J"'" pop-cve- 1310 Sen wlih-collar- ! J |