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Show -- the 3' no MoitxiMs i:xamim:k. i:m i::o4 TaTv .i CLUE. j.' j r i y i l 1& 1 i r Si t The Way to Wear t Ones Clothes. That thin la and la to ba a velvet sea-nu-n guua without aaylug. Una after tha all tha various fseiucsa of tha (thar wardnnlie liava succumbed to tha cruse, and tboaa whose puma will not admit of lisvlng allk aud clilffun velvet fur all drcaa and outduur garments may taka heart of (net, fur tha cotton weaves, tha velveteens, ara Just aa high In fairor aa ara thalr cousins of tha utora costly kind. But, nevertheless, thma ara soma luxurious Assigns which damand tha mora eoatly production, and thaaa wall repra-aatha acme uf extravagance. For example, there ara axqulalta carriage and evening wrapa of which velvet la tha foundation, a foundation upon whb-la lavlahed many of tha real Isoes, luxurloua and axpenalva fur and an amount of hand cmbruldory which aimoat paaaea belief. One auch example la a recent Importation from that home of luxurloua extravagance. tha Rua da la Falx. of tha entire world feminine. Here a floella or ecru chiffon velvet la uaad for tlia foundation garment, which might beet ba deacrlbed aa a aleevad cap or dolman, for It part ultra of tha nature of both. Tha lit la euay over tha shoulders, and from t liere tha falls la full and outward folda to well below tha knoa, tha cut being well-nig- h to circular. Fanela of tlio real hand-euIriah crochet, not cut, hut made to the shops, ara posed at Intervals upon tha full capa portion, and tlia velvet being cut away from beneath tlieee there la a baching of doubla white chiffon provided, ' 1 he sleeve la an extrema oddity, Tha anu'e eye la at about tha natural point, but larger than ordinary, so aa tu accommodate comfortably tha full aleava of llw evening gown beneath. Cut In a kite shop. tha aleava la so d raped that tliu axceas of fulnuas falls from the back of the arm to tha elbow, hanging loosely, and the lower part la on usual lines, with a wide cuff of cldnchllla meeting the velvet portion. Around tha collar-ice- s neck and down tha front there la a alula of rich, thick chinchilla, tha gray of the fur toning In well with the ecru the lilioc though somewhat less uf u noirliy Hum fitted gunurlit. The hip basques with the characteristic pocket flaps can Uf either closely tilted or rippled, according to the height, stylq and taste of llw wearer. The slender girl will find tha rippled basque very becoming, if aha baa height aa well aa aleiulernesa; but her mora developed slater would better ding to the fitted variety, aa beat Belting off her good points id in: v 1 nt Velvet In Favor For Dressy Appearances wg-uti- m? vrlvet, with much (Tuny Uce and filtered mutirs wrought In chenille threads uf plquautly contrasting shades. tha The lace makes the upper part or aluiul-de- r wrap and the sleeves as well, tha portion being continued In stole design down the fronts, where tha fastening la concealed under a maos of pllaaa chiffon ruffling All around Ilia garment la bordered with tha clienllle-wrougmedallions, these heading a thick chenille fringe, while over then shoulder on either aide la posed a sable akin, tlia Htlla talla and daws hanging over tha arm and the head portions meeting In the center uf the collar at the back. liand-emb- ix hey ht ds in Kua-sla- Ktealag Wmp In Velvet, Lara And Fur. ha-lov- gar-ma- nt In the rueh of modern life kffh. Ing many previous gift. Ann- -, the art of wearing our clntti,- - t TiJ best advantage will soon have beco obsolete. All the money a spend on dross will not help to her look amart If aha lacks this tuMa branch of knowledge. It la not so murk the dress we wear aa the care with' which wa put It on that makes the dlf. ference. French women possess a woa. derful sense of tha fitness 0f tM.-Tare said to endow the poorest rtL ment with elegance. The Vienna foj. low their Parislsn sisters doaclr wUlt some Insist upon bestowing tbs pain m our beautiful Amarlcan. and exquisitely trim in her riding haMt or tailor-maejatums, the KngUsh. woman can compete with the Vlsnnne. Tha healthy freshness of her ta.Wr tha delicacy of her coloring, should mi tha golden apple from her competitsti wars It not for tha fact that tha Los. don air soon takas tha crispness out $1 chiffon, and lacs frills do not thrive h l I'l'hKiili-n-i- An ecru shade of clilffun velvet makes this Imported wrap, aud panels of Irish e laeu, are crochet, the real posed effectively, tha velvet being cut away beneath. Tin coat la extremely loose all around, tlia only semblance of fit being over the shoulders, from which tin full folds fall In circular fashion. hand-mad- Tha sleeve la odd and original, with a puff at tha dibow that projects fur to the hark. Around the nerk and down the fronts a broad liand of rhlnrhllla la used, atnl the same fur furnishes tha loose cuff that, finishes tha alceve. bag-shap- aa Laxury la Velvet A ad Lae. The moat popular and assuredly tha most practical of evening wrapa are lima that are built upon cape lines. Indued, many of tha beat of them can ba heat described as sleeved copes, so loose and full are they. Tha model of the picture la In creamy white rlilffon 'M The Separate Velvet Ceat. 8eparata coats and wraps In tha heavier velvets are among tha popular Items of the season, and of these tha Loud tfulnas ahapea ara the most admired. Tfia upper part of tha coat la louse and on the blouse order, while the hip basques ara cut to follow tha curves of the figure closely, rounding off at the fronts to display the gown underneath. The ahallow capa collar, the fronts and VELVET, a Cw jew v puff sleeves uitr all elaborately decorated with ecru murrauie. Tha amart turban which accompanies thla coat Is of whits Irish crochet with a broad block velvet binding on the cdg uf the brim; and tlia sola trimming is In tha lung lyre plume which pasaca all around the hat. with the tip falling over the brltn, to test on the hair at the left aide. d. is. $ m - ,XHS pss-ts- m wlvct, Tha hats that accompany thaaa luxu- -' rluua wraps arc more than likely to ba In velvet likewise, with lace, ribbons and plumes for trimming. Thera la n delightfully wide variety aa to shapes mid styles. It really would aesm aa i hough the mllllnara, aa well as the dressmakers, had gona to history for ihrlr inspiration, and It wero well to ba so, for never before has there been such necessity to have tha hat in conaonanca with l h gown. In tha velvet hats tha brlma ara an of them wide and picture aqua; while the crown le tha point of departure for the crowns, tylc. Thera ara sugar-loa-f crowna, drum crowns and tlia flHt mushroom shapes with no crown at all liuld their own in tha season's styles ama singly. There 4a evident a very decided liking for tlia hat uf block velvet, with a bunrh of fluffy wlilta ostrich plumes for trimming. This la a style which, when developed In a becoming shape, will prove about the most useful adjunct. for It can be worn appropriately for both daylight and evening wear, and look in tha picture." as our artist friends say, at all times. And tha crass fur velvet tiaa reached auch proportions that when the gown itself la not of tha pile fabric tha trimming simply must be. Veals, collars and cuffs; revere, broad or narrow, single or manifold thaaa ara all expressed In velvet upon tha doth, mohair, cashmere and taffetas frocks. The celflture, or girdle, needs to ba carefully managed when planned in Velvet, tor thla material has a tendency to apparently increase the bulk, and unless vary deftly handled the result will not ba nil that was hoped for. li i yK&V M 'JpH- - M hitch-steep- le o A if - av-- . i development. satisfactorily. a cat Tha way in which wc throwing bark nr., closing tlia ntwk make all tlia difference, and how Rite) wa will hav to study tha grwM methods of wearing those moat dlW garments, the Empire scarf gndki H shawls of the ffis. If they are to vived with the threatened crinoline. The science of detail should claim t attention, for men often judas is w aome trifle we have overlooked Owej slioea and pretty stocking shmildi ww worn In prof" dainty underskirtsa be view to tltnew order, and with tern wi-u- r Vt- - 'St ZjIZXIZSY JZ2i Vki.vrrr Tha velvet coat, for wear with various toilet tea, la another Hein 'on the aeaaoa's catalogue; and hers the rich designs Of tho Louis Quinae period (iml aflwqirr JSITDJtSCZ. The body por- i tion they are always cut in twd section may bo either closely fitted or Moused, aa beat becomes tlia figure, al I I To Love The Ever Popular Shirtwaist Silk and Chiffon Velvets In Delicate Shades For the Tailored Blouse. The shirtwaist more than holds Its own aa the seasons come and tlia seasons go. Unlike moat other style. U haa not bad its tips and downs; It hag guns upon Its uneventful career by the vagaries of fashion, and same even vogue throughout. the kept Indeed, It has coma to be aa stable la Its way as are any of tha necessarlea of life. Tlie only rlppla upon the surface of Its prosperity la the tendency occasionally by tha extravagant to use rich and luxurious materials for ita fash. Inning. Thus one area In some of the exclusive shops plain and severe shirt wafata of tho sheerest chiffon velvet, and In such delicate shades that they aem to belong to the ballroom or opera bouse rather than to the early morning hours that ara supposed to ba devoted In mute strenuous pursuit. winter wear flannels are highly favored thla season, and tha term flan net will serve to Include the soft French la production, the Hootch flannel that woven with a twist In the warp- - and tha r perhaps known aa silk flannel, aolelulne, for all of which unahrinkubla qualities are claimed. fjr their career the shirtwaist were supposed to follow the fashions In sleeves, but gradually tha regulation Shirt sleeve, prey nearly the same cut a the masculine arm covering, lias come to be established a tha correct Thla pattern for all of the wash variety. to seen In linen, clievlota, madrasaea and the like, aa well ns In tha flannel and assuredly Its aimplicUy and tlio absc nee of frills bring It through the In' In better Ipg experience of the laundry ' glut pc than a more elaborate design iuid ekpect. The velveteens In the new colorings are rosily favored, for they fit In well, both for the plain tailored requirement and the dressier style as well. All of the to raspberry abodes, from 1 he lightestand the deepest, show up well In this, In tha large range shown noma one or Anqtaq,qftyijawk.W IrygA, Early In fog; Tha woman who can nut spend much on dress generally studies tha aalaa-t- ht result ara disastrous and make bar clothes peg In a second-han- d shop. But, than, again tha woman whs la rich beyond the dreams of s varies h often a mars block In the hands of hsr dressmaker. She I ovarhetted. own dressed and Her ip. paaranca Is spoiled by superfluous and unnecaasary adorn mant. Tha root of tha evil la that wa liar all, rich and poor, to dross In a hurry, and thla Is fatal to tha harmony of out appears no. Wa have no time te remember that thla oolnr dlaagnw wlih that, or that true lover's knots ars slightly Incongruous whan peat dO. W pitchfork our clothec on anyhow, and tha result la an untidy display of niM Unary In which woman aa tha pleturs la overshadowed and dwarf td by the frame. Tha art of putting on rtottes waa tha pride of a peat gsnsratlcn. Vs have only to look at tha old world and miniatures to assure ouratlns tliat tha grace with which our aim tresses wore their scarfs and aliavli waa tha result of thoughtful study. Tit Empress Juarphlna was famed for hw knowledge of tha art of wearing hit ' gowns and court trains rith dignity in grace. Past the first bloom of her yoint, aha eclipsed all tha beauties of X poison's Court by her bearing on tia day of her coronation. Tha art of putting on our elnfloi wisely and wall may be acquired, lla anything slaa, by dint of patience aid perse vs ranoe. Wa must study whet suns us beat and discard the caprices of fiilr ion. Ba careful not to mix up the Empire styles with those of Louis Bel m ISM periods It la often by taking son thing off, not by adding to our tniK that wa perceive a marked Improvemnt. Wa must bear In mind that the dma la only a background for the worn? a, and If the eye Is distracted by a rartny of fallals tha wearer la the hlf Pilferer. The Grecian drapery, tlir long lines of an Empire gown, arc irwHi wa may glean Idea from. A hat fill'd to tha light angla may prove most becoming, while tlie least deviation vra'I make It appear ridiculous and uglf- A corset, a bodice nr belt npist be properly put on and adjusted to the natural waist line before It ran he made to 11 3?UT2l bells, and (he shops are showing any becoming. niinilM-of devices wherewith to shape With the black aud darker colorings In velveteen as well aa in velvet, the the belt Jnstamly. There or mors shades real lace collars and cuffs that are such of ribbons arc often sown together, a fad. show up delightfully. At first rows of shirring sisyeil wlih decorating tlie lwrk and side, thought there seems to be something Incongruous In tlia combination of real and the front having either a rosette or larea and a shirtwaist. Bui here la Ihiw to conceal the necessary hook and where n nice discrimination must be ex- rye, or else a handsome burkle of small ercised; for while soma of the real laces design. Home smart belts with chatelaine bsgx are n the extreme of tlie vogue In this connection, there are others that It were en suite are shown in the more pliable aimoat a sacrilege, a sartorial sacrilege, furs, moire astrakhan and ydta. which to use except when one Is rn grande la a calfskin with the hair left on, betoilette. The coarser and less valuable ing among rreent novelties. kinds ara wliat are used wlih the shirtwaist or shirtwaist suit. The torchon a recent restoration to fashion's fuvur Cluny, Maltese, the Irish crochet, the g Tlie ui-- t of gowns, bodices Italian filet and the Russian guipures, Jackets is once more in higli favor, all of these and their congeners will go and the tendency of tlie swell costumers well. But to think of using a piece of alyl Is to away from the stralglit-fron- t real point d'Alencon. or Brussels, or corsets,get as they have proven to be InDuchesse or Bruges perish the thought: jurious to the figure, as they spoil (ha For more utilitarian wear there are shape of the wearer by giving a strong tendency to round shoulders .because of very serviceable blouse of sicilli-nueand the new weaves In this am as soft the lack of support given st the buck the straight front model and sheer aa a foulard silk would lie. by 1 lie latest IVinslun models nre as reVery often a skirt la fashioned wlili this sult now dttTcrrally designed, anda the to no Is the vogue for there letup blouse, liHilce foundations art always made In of the shirtwaist suit. thieu Sid pieces and the full puffed Item wii'i are a very Belts inipurt.uit sleeyes bare a close tight filling lining. new The lays shirtwaist figure Flecked tweed and loosely woven the such emphasis upon the curve of the mateiiuls of ever' description nre in usi-'must be care much grout vogue fop morning gowns, nml waistline that In their sehetion. The absence or any there Is but lllile trimming icing mud on these models. The most popular pouch or bagginess in the front linn;'i stu.pi-- skirt for street wear during tlia the belt Into greater prominence than morning is the skirt with heretofore. In the case of silk or v Ivt If st nlsiul hem the projection or even flannel shirtwaists there is i.ffen Inches deep, cut all In one. with the t a belt made of the material, for his hns front and side pieces. BuL should the e material be loo narrow the a tendency to lengthen the waistline; pisi-endd--on. A last seasons Whereas, a belt of the sKlrt material, nr sKirt edn IsIV ton narrow at the hem can th.it of some contrasting stuff, will undoubtlie easily inode wider l opening tha shorter. It appear make edly siitpis 1:' r 18 inch'- above th hem, Tlie slender curve of the waislliuc ran mid should the gnrnuuit he too close fitbe cleverly emphasised by making the ting over llie lilps and at tlia back tha belt fairly high In the hack and bringing w.nsibiiiid run lie untucked and two it around to the front with a d tiled Inches cut away from the top to increase This will enable last year's elope, this slope being confined to the tha fullness. models to closely imitate tlia brand-neupper edge only. flOl'A Xtas, 'U W uri. Rbadgd rtbbom .qg r fcntlu-r-bnn- Tight Fitting Clothes. (Ight-fittlr- . -- l 1 - w elm ho. or to Be Loved? Unfortunately, that eccHitrlcand often little blind god, Cupid, frequently so ii Hots a woman's lire that she finds lierw'ir able to count with upon two chances of iiiutriniiiny. I'ossllily In all cases the love of the liiislmnd nnd wifo is of unequal proporlli.n, hence tlie question arlw-- us to wlieihyr the woman who is fortunate enough to hare more than a Hobson's cl, mice should marry tlia mini whose hoc she possesses, but whom she likes lierxcir nut quite so well, or wliei her It would le better to marry the man she herrolf most passionately loves, but who, she is well aware, haa little more Ilian a lukewarm urtection for Iters' If. Of the uieruge woman it run safely Ik siiiit Unit nhi would ba wiser railier to give life tu the man whose lore seems hnuid and vast that someilnics It reminds her of her own love, not for him. for that other one. the renluy of wliuse love she but too well doubts. Ill ch'H.sing between the most loved and the must loving man. the woiii.iu who wishes to marry will. In nine case out of ten. find greatest happiness In accepting the latter, always providing that she has some liking and affer-tlo- n for linn. Blip should he most careful, howe- - er. not to allow lilin to mar-her under any false Impressions. That Is to say, she should explain the exuct stair of her feelings towards him, and tluit li is on account of his great lore fur her that she is quite content tu trust her fut-jHfe and happiness In Ids ha uds. Mli i ts done the man's lure for tho wui;.,ii he mat riea will Invariably make determined to gradually win iiffei-ltotlie of Ids wifo, until it Is eqii.d to that which has fur her. Kinili -, tenderness and fidelity will I the ill"- - giudis tu Ids conduct, and It w.l. indeed, tie siuoborn heart wlin-'is nut touched and won by such a nuu. huKi-ibl- r t LrXHEJTE Yrj xrFrrJaxBSEfT Zrrn r Velvet With Uce and Panics. i s w. " i.-- i t pi i (Htrtitr, wK-imtr- evident a very faner for i.ipt-asniarily turned up a( ( lie ;i.!- m g full oslrirh pl'liiie to drapii a. fj,. one in tho picture follows ills sttle. Black pson ifl-.-- t eovirs i e shape, this disposed in fold t . ft crown, the puffed c:. ;iv upon both upper aud under hi in with a Iw n,l uf tie fold nt ruher euge. Thera Is a deep bandeau In the I .id else which serve to lift m shape off: me face, giving ii a rcry be- kaaufid upward tills Th- ii .. i J " - ' r r V." W ' d f .. I -- i-f- - aw' V' ; 4 v. 1 ': i'- - ; .w:'. . i i hi-i- driini-slinp.-- )! The velvet cov rod shapes fW w shops are showing In suck themssl'' lend artistic variety j fully to the effort of th to B,oc ner. The trimming fnay A ! tie. Just as one favorite combination for one wtilch vrlll uiHt with daf Ing needs, U in black crown entirely covered wlih fabric, while th v'lvV Jh..tmylff pi In d vsr tha brim. Black " I shirred to fall In fasende ,j " tbs artufid disposed j. M (l rows, th; lower ones gjT edgw of the brim. This sLte. left the a little at of fluffy white ostrich plume this making for a very drrosy -- tr-i- step-shap- s i Openwork stocking are bad fnlace. cold weather, and great heat iHM far .u justifies their being employed also MW floor wear. 8hoes and gloves their time and place and should if mean tie neglected by the wonts Mr wants to excel in tha art of wearing V. ... . ill ' J ' ' Ate y ' "aw. T- - wr.EC.qA The TIebes&uee ifeEVET C.qbx . - j |