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Show 0 THE MOEXTXG EXAMINEE, SUNDAY, JTTLY 3, 1904.' For traveling purpose them la goth Ing to surpass the slclllennm, far got only are they lightweight and cool, M th dust Just rolls off them as the water from th proverbial ducks back, al they positively refuse to wrtnkls gator any circumstances. Small wondar, tton-fathat the beet tailors ars swung up tha smart traveling suits to Oil weavs and trimming them elstomtiiy In braids and button a Wttk aaanrtot of a dligg cation ef tha holm tha amt ef this smart design In grey toeBtana bourottad In black has a ahallov (taoW der cape, a fitted vest braided la M!a design at th waist 11m and a tom puffy sleeve with a turndown euf tabbed with a lace ruffle The skirt hi ths hip yoke end tsbller front wt la one end ever the hlpa there to a dsnt empteaement braided tn the black sal earn gold, this serving te define th tto of th hip, Th skirt to pleated at tte sides and bask and Just touches ground all around. Somewhat on the Military Mods Ona of the fashionable broken ar to visible plaids to seen la this cravemtM mohair, on which broad military fetaMi and gold bullet buttons carry out tto seml-flttmilitary design. Th eoat to defining the figure with th sriiws effect, and both eoUto straight-froand cuff are elaborated with a gold Tin braiding upon white cloth. skirt to severely plain, with suWtoij down pleats In front nnd a ptoln tonajj hem carries outai and velvet-boun- d talloc-m- n Idea of the severely ptoln model. nt e ward, until now It Is frequently within Inch or even less of the ton For stout figure the hlpa yoke cut in one, with a front panel. Is a boon. In volla, silk and other thin materials skirts are shirred or plaited directly Into the girdle, but unnecessary fulness Is discarded by means of gores or by cutting the plaits out from underneath. Th wide choice allowed In th selection of styles and fabrics this year la responsible for an unusual Uaplay of charming eostumee whatever fashionable women congregate at the leading resorts. A smart touch of eolor goes a long ways In lifting an ordinary toilet above tbe point of mediocrity, and these touches are often quit startling whoa closely scrutinised, while observed a part of a harmonious whole they give cachet and distinction to the 10 and by tha material chosen. This gammer tlier are. all statements to the contrary, any number of smart gowns being made of Cheviot, smooth, lightweight serges. Oxford mixtures and materials that will stand the hardest kind of wear, tha Skirt In aids pleats or seven-gorewith decided flare or with attaehed flounce and a medium-lengt- h g coat. No trimming excepting the turndown collar and enffa Fancy blotters worn with these gowns are most attractive, and ere made in noire silk, taffeta or th Madras made for this purpose. The white moire walnta look exceedingly smart with the eolld colors, but with th mixed Cheviot a more effective contrast la obtained with the brighter colors. The thin, white, elaborately mad waist worn with them eeverely plain costumea sent somewhat Incongruous, and yet the very Incongruity makes them attraetlva Elaborata laca silk or satin waists ara often aeon. The heavily embroidered and richly trimmed muslins do net look bod. Then. If a dork waist Is preferred, crepe de chine or chiffon la smart arc the bolero Jackets worn over fine batiste lace or linen walsta These Jackets are cook and at the same time are quite appropriate for the promenade or traveling gown. Among the new atylee Is found a Jacket, previously mentioned. !!,at..w.ould tremely chic In any of Hfntwiljht materials. This, vntly. Is a cross between an Eton ippar and a bolero. Although fitting closely to tha neck at the back. It falls straight from there to within about three Inches fnm llu belt Tha material Is cut around th bottom, and the Jacketstraight la left open down tha front or may be fastened at th front by a ribbon bow. . Tha sleeves are left very large and come Just a little below the elbow. In fact th coat la mads all In one piece, after the fashion Introduced In some ef the French coats last winter. Thee suits ars trimmed either with bands of tbetr own material, with rows of silk or narrow braid. The trimming Is smartest whan ef the name eolorperhaps as tlie d, half-fittin- wnr th plaid cheviot) that resist dust and rtumpnt'tm hsv no rciunla. In summer weights tlirso ara ant more burdensome than in pinrr wools. and ara nlwsvs natty appearance In tlia tailored setups, lend-ln- s' themselves gracefully to the tailored Inrtwalat and linan collar. Thare la no doubt that fia abort aklrt la bring seen more and mnr frruurnlly. hut lat no np imaaina for a moment that it la like the abort akirt of former daya. severely plain and thoroughly practical from tha utilitarian standpoint. The new short skirl ailmita nr Intlnita vnrlrtv, and may he mail as dressy as r lightweight and tne wishes It. Rein yielding material and without linlu. Its pocnlar fuahionin Is productive of a arneral effect, as new and attraetlva as It ia eharmiii. Turkin or plaiting In modified form ia largely made use of in here new liort skirts, hilt there must le lillla fulness where they meet the nnd serviceable two-thud- la outlined wi'h flue embrolJry. lb-aiia equally smart, howerar, particularly nis-te.'l- r jj Aioiia ij jSizkzdzd L'npxczjr Iaw whan tt must harmonise with malum. i ! j , bill suV.W$ ! ! j I I ! Clime-I'ti--- tlp.rso f popi. lliy are homdessly stiff, them Iras drorulile in a ah gown, eve-- luilur rhnw soft nril rllng'ng l.n-- e. !i! - ; aie hard nt.d quit p.i' usiiy hi inr ing liv.-l- - f- - it: i m-.- u wt'-- t n where m-.- : m . r'.u-u- lr so t..t r s Of frnd--iir- a milking scigs they nrn by the r.il.iic tliat is aipnoH- -n totally diflerent. by th way. from the rJo.vivta c i.n lr, ir LractiiaJ . . it . . g'-e- PPr e tl-- j band of th" canvas, In green all flora and edged with silver braid niounicd on Inch-wid- e Strips of darker shade of green taffeta. Tha name color scheme Is carried out in the Eton Jacket. T'.e taifeta and sliver form shoulder and flaring cuffs for tha gigot alee,., and edga tha fly fronts of the Eton. These torn back to show an uiiderf-- Ing of wlilta satin. There is a shall w vest of tha canvas exquisitely embroidered In the ritrker -- h"rtof and edged with thr silver " taffe.s. It allow. Jabot of lac. 10 beneath It. The asms luce le fur wnat ruffles. Coat ar l skill costumes ara si Id not so to as waist and skirt with sepjttu coat or wrap, and yet no woman would for a moment think ah could go through tlie entire summer wltliout a cloth coat and skirt cesium. More and more fashionable Is it becoming to have all cloth gowns n.ade up elaborately wr.h fiiuncea. with ei'k, setin or fancy braid trimmings, so that tha original idea or tha tallor-nia- d gown seems to lidve hci-- entirely lust sight of. It In View of tha strange. t country life la supremely faahlonnile at the moment, and when. id order to enje-country life, simple and spri'T'lat clothes are a necessity, that thvie should tie this crass for such elaborate styles. Surprising as it may seem, ronfervative tailors have a different stc-- iu teU of orders received for the pi-- It cat of tailor gowns made on the rrK iI.uicn plan of years, with cost and skirt to match, and with little or no tninnilrg. the smattnrsa of the gown secured i y the el cut fit i t- , t 'ir I hnlf-inc- ois-p,;- ;e ' In a elclrt that la entirely new the bos are laid close together at tha top, the aeceaenry hue is repeated on plaits Tl ey rewidening out as they .? all. Au extremely chin costume recently m.inip.ii t'nn. hut are area was of pongee colored cloth, luni-n- u quire careful success fill when pnqipily hung; with dark brown nnd ald braid, li'Khly Another skirt equally new and decidedly tl.e blouse spotted with dark brown. smart la end phiitrd all The brown alraw hat wus trimmed with around in wiil.-are pt.i.t. a of the brown spoiled -r stitched iluwoeitrd two or three Innsa huitnns ornamented the ;n-- ket i from tie belt, thus srcnrmg the b'c'inf k,rt -Erin At '!' buckle nuie,,e wuh. foot Ihe there Is s I. cm or n'ne Mlu nd ret formed the frills of tha which wide, the upon elesvea and at the t hi oat, The and fliushnl with cord, fancy skirt was laid m broad side plait which right side braid or atltcli'ng. In different style, but were shaped toward wnlstiuisd. less rffcvpve. Is the skirt with Its Thy ara hcl-- In subjection ontb. theband. eat fulness gu not plaited. Into th fur 0 Inches hmw The front p.nel effort was wide, as boll. At (lie line of the knees a deep ibe most of the front breadths nl and vry ful' flo'iace is applied. g.uliercd f.mr I'.iuvj colds, ll-- a llounca rrsent. The blouse bolero was cut at on all th fulness that te now the front In fall in points at aeh aids S'll'pi-rover the girdle. The back and side impe.at.ve around the bottom. tt upper irt of the skirt needs rouclmd slightly, falling over th girdle in a sort of p'ait or tuck. or.y enough fulnvss to let It fall In The very inalen:il for tbe larh-e- t graief.il lines. The newest coats of the sulla and tha one Pint la rapidly jacket KU'ts may be made In any one of cnni'ng forward a a favorite is the thice siiapva One is tlie short cl evloL The r rgea are los- cloth ln wnhrrfft of the aame color hy prefer-Ki'a a A third atyla worthy of mention (a litfla looaa eoat with a Capa. It ia ilepli and quit plain, briny merely outlined with ma-hatltrhd bands of doih. to bo a favorite color. ('rpn continues Each year It la reaurrccted In net. Green shades wool canvas not a atar- Ing green, such as dyed sums of tha mitliiiei-pliuuage, hut a delicate shade, with a sheen of silver ever It mnkrs a charming suit for tha coni days in the mountain or at tha aeaaimre. The skirt la inetip length, full and fitted over tha hlpa and into the waiatllna by a sueecaelon of short tucks. It flare around the iinttom and Is adorned by a belt. Ry Our Fpertal Correspondent MIRIAM men. For hard wear and the pooler davs. illur in mountains or on the tl.e walking or pcdrslrais suit laJourney an ncqiindtiun to Ilia summer girl's now. as summer vuca-I'-'- ii t.rrdrnh. Just mi' la are rccrlving ll.e biKgrst e; aro i f aite.ilhm. ibe one point of s.- ru to be the proper length of e.iiM. From lust ceraping Trie around to enkio length are all declared to be nvid-la- h of hecomlnanaee i'rn.a, end uillifjr. J.airemiate who are e.wsvs off the furthest I.cvg'ng edges of every fashion are declaring la fascr of the ankle length sort. The rrauit la fro- , displays of fantastic "avtups" m v. .ich women uf extended girth and big I ret. and girls long nr limb art setting rff treir moat ungainly proportions hi ii best advantage, fully a girlish figure of pronounced (limnrss uf build can an ankle length skirt gracefully. For nil others eq.mliy comfortable walkarc jiosMiiie, cut fn. m an tin-skirts ing t'l two Inch's above tee ground. For m. rjr.f e for r:i i la ti- - woman who Is too tall or too stout. lii, of civir- e. bn reference to tbs w' lvh w i.l be worn fur walking or li 3 For tee tennis C"urt or gu'f llrLr, fr fur eou.vry r. la with tl.s ring's vu-of rt. nnd 'i i. re is more and note of a toward one ton cos' umes that to, UiosuIbcs a:i.ia. hot. Ti.a l.iMr cornea down about of The way to the elbow and s d t'y i fa--- t pvr-ccti- au chosen.-Exceedingl. dell-einiis- ly Particularly la the' trig tailor-mad- On e ed suits A novelty among tha styles hi Faria to the pleateau millinery of embroidered batlste-olinen, the tint mentioned considered quite dressy. The embroidery to of the plumetto or English order, and worked in silk. These plateaus eerv to cover both flat and toque abhpee, are equally pretty on both. They een In black and white only. The linen headwear to also very popo tor. butof counje. less elegant tfhfta black, ecru are its colors, and tha designs of Toe same description as on muslin Is carried out in white and black. This looks extremely well on ecru linen. In the smart or anting hats there Is a craze In the demand for trimming with belts, or with a velvet and straw trimming made These belta or gown, but black and whit Is also used, to, simulate, the belt ar used and often some shads In direct contrast aroundtrimmings the crowns, the generally buckle coming to the eolor of the gown la Introduced. directly in th center of the front, On must be careful that In choosing the end of the belt pointing toward with th this contrasting shade one that la really wit iido. b carried out on effective with th green la taken, for Her shapes or on n large nothing is simpler than to absolutely the sms by cutting two slito destroy all th etyl of a very smart the rollingshape at the left side frock by the introduction of soma color passing the brtra belt through them and that does not tone with the rest of tits around the crown. It 1s certainly a novelty in trimming which is well suited gown. The majority ef tbe smartest Imported to the generality of summer etylea Th tricorne and turban lave lost tailor-made- s have full skirts, full clear none ef tlietr pnpulnrliy. and ere to th girdle. 'A large number of ouch In both and large toilets are without the sign of a gore, tricorne moderate of medium size Is sizes, mads or the volume being plaited or shirred ac- champagne straw. In which ara cording to tha whim of its maker. It is woven tnroads of gold. The theretrim only shoit-clottailor-mad- e h only ia ths ranks of -- 'Krone. that the hip yoke remain, and -rorod with Sb'SjjJ; there It ia likely to stay so lung as b,lcJL.n',,0,d ornament. Tlito hat to a at tlie foot Is dtmunded. The charminggold amplltuds one to accompany ' dressv XuUiess has beva gradual! u up walking costume fear the prumensde, r ready-to-we- cruift-leeth- ar rr ed , evi-iri- e Style, wtaM e, In Tailor-Mad- Thera to an air of th trlgtafloMj In this smart shape In white straw are cleverly lntermapn,, th straw braids being form th trimming, na wU s th - ltost"r bap, Th crown shows longM- fro dency. being n Uttle dented In te front, nnd deeply tMj dla Th wired brimn Ults shops the left side, where wing which the cool summer days draw out there are hosts of suggestions dally for the smartening of tha simpler frocka A navy blue Eton suit, with no especial claim to smartness. U given Just tbe right finish by a hat ef the aame oolor. decorated at the side witn a large, wide green bird or wing. With a black and white shepherd plaid la worn a wide- brimmed sailor of white chip, trimmed with a white band. A light, braid hat. trimmed with a wreath of blue cornflowers and green foliage, with a white ribbon knotting at the beck, accompanies a blue suit, which la trimmed with black and white soutache braid. With pale gray serge suit is worn a white straw toque. Th crown hi enclirled by green foliage, above which is placed a wreath of white maa.straight, regular a useful hat for tailor-madth country, eeeom-enyin- g a natty wna In aimed straw, decorated with soft green satin ribbon and wings. Another chiclooking shape in black and white had as ite'Onlrgartilturo two fancy quills kaot- Ther to a demand this summer- - for tlie more elaborate effect In the outlni hata This to due. of course, to the fact that the suit with which these hate are to be worn have a much more feminine touch In their style than was tha case even last summer, and the difference as compared with the mannish styles uf three seasons ago Is exceedingly pronounced. It goes without saying that the atylee in hata must follow the styles slraw-eol-or- the straw catches a long Jhjt ooqFJJJ and this little feather the loose strapping ofend" againstbound with white that braid th crown. A etow torndmuto duced oa tha kit sld to lift tin a trifle. New Torpedo Tnrbafl The torpedo turban to esffijWJ? able for a general to- particularly comfortable far shows tog use. TheIn model almost nlw this development which In hemming shape. fanryjj1, chiffon, foliage nnd n veiT mingled to producecrown to ot feet Indeed. The brim -pilose chiffon, nnd tbs red u nates the fancy pinkish with chiffon In nirow-hea-d rod dark of velwy'jj each elds s knot bens appear, Just n l'tt' each MJj foliage being caught into th- uttk shape sets closely to in around, tha front projection the title the which gives point 3 , la Braided Desiga The coat and skirt eultlsat most stylish and prxcttoal both for traveling nnd since the blouse that acoompan11- -' ntij tro he as eeverely plain or elaborate as on choosea and ltn at It If be one costume. "Jett fit many occasion a The pictured to In brown cloth. rojWLti4 a brown and whit soUn with gold soutache, ThS J? .Suktl'-ha- s a braided stole- - n bt , th popular Ruslan executed on th end of th -- T nested cleverly on the sleeve. ( has a hip yoke, to which the do end applied (n deep tucks,likewise front and the back clolh. ro j long sash ends of the Ished with th cross-stitc- h finishes iijl. this stltehing. The sailor SJIi the new eeaeon block.W lk crown and moderately wide woo, tA "eroilTthrowhrovybt The Fancy Tailor Mada. With th plain severity of the tailor, style softened with the kpft tion of many rows of velvet riboua design ha much that to novel mend It for general usa Tbe . I a lightweight cheviot of tn light gray that to almost a used to be known ns dusty F The Eton to fashioned with the nice- - ow line lengthened Into defined with many rows of ribooa -The U1' , t In a medium brown. tops half way to the waist, wher. met with a deep fitted belt of bla of doth, each edged with velvet The skirt has a hip yoke to whies bp JZi paneln. each with a cut-i- n are applied In wavy lines. ribbon outlining thee effectively also heading each of the box plrote turnover cmlar nnd cuffs are IJJJT 0 with princess haircloth to reuJ g smart flare, and the ribbon isvr these too with equally good p, |