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Show 9 f SILK KNOWS NO RIVAL FOR SUMMER WRAPS -- BY KATHERINE ANDERSON ' - v. I??7T y .! $ ' r" i - ' , ... if-;- 'yj . yp&. dfeir ' fSiSS Caaino coat of bluet silk. hold undisputed weave in a season notable for coquettish summer wraps. Along with the quaint frocks of i8jo and i860 modes has come the short wrap half jacket, half cape, and altogether frolicsome and frivolous. It is the despair of the woman who goes in for all things utilitarian and the joy of the type who would make eyes at Bedouin captors holding her for a ransom in Sahara. It must be admitted that summer wraps are flirtatious in every fold and frill. Tljerf isnt a Miwiblq. thing about thtm, 0 the world U, ibehtjlk is going 'to'fike them and 'the world of women-fol- k to buy tficm. SILK . Black taffeta seems to be the favorite foundation for dark wraps, but its identity is carefully veiled with chiffon, mousseline, laces and chiffon appliques. It is plaited back and front on shoulders, stole and sleeves. And, lest of its own account it be not bunchy enough, it is swathed in inching, pinked and plain. which was A black taffeta Eton, surrounded by an admiring circle of women at a recent opening, was chifburied beneath accordion-plaite- d fon, ending in a double, niching of rhiffon. A stole effect in point de Venise was added, and the clasp at the throat was a clever imitation, of Venetian icon in green, set in sleeves rhinestones. The three-quartwrre of silk, overlaid with plaited chiffon, with half sleeves of finest and . er WHAT A HAGIOSCOPE IS. In spite of the close blood relation- ship, said an American who had visited England, "we.are frequently reminded in England that we are foreigners. It crops up often in the ordinary conversation. y An English friend whose guest 1 was took' me around to see his native villages We entered the church. is your pew? I Whereabbut v asked. We sit over there by the hagioscope, he answered, as though a hagioscope were some common object ike a table or a candlestick. My friend noticed the blankness of my face, so he repeated. Over there, just below th hagio! scope. Would you mind telling me what sort of an instrument it is that you call a hagioscope?' I asked meekly. The Englishman looked hurt, but with a sigh he explained: ! We have 'them in nearly all the old ' country churches. Do you see that small glass window through the wall beside the' altar? That was made at the time when lepers were at large, and they attended church services. inThey were, of course, not allowed side, so they stood outside and saw and heard the services through that hole, which is called the squint window, but more often the hagioscope. the most entrancing lingerie flouncing. A clearly defined blouse of accordion-plaited glace silk ends in a pointed girdle of silk laid in stitched folds. An i8jo yoke effect is secured by a plaited flounce of the silk running completely around back and front, and edging the long shoulder. The yoke effect is further simulated by a round collar of cream guipure lace, with stole ends that reach to the girdle. The sleeves are very long made of solid acand shawl-shapecordion plaiting. The edge of both the sleeves and the flounce outlining the yoke is finished with two rows of narrow ribbon joined by fagoting. Still another blouse coat of accordion-plated glace silk has plaited sleeves, which fit snugly into the armt eye, blouse loosely just below the elbow, and then ars gathered into a narrow cuff of plain silk, overlaid with black guipure. With this comes a shawl collar of the plain silk, forming loints front, back and over the shoulder, and heavily appliqued with black guipure. The loose, jacket with cape sleeves works out best in soft d, full-plait- of pleated chiffon. comes below the hips is of The yoke etamine in champagne tint, nate rows of shirrings and heavy lace galloons or insertion, and the yoke is shirred straight from the shoulder edged, top and bottom, with pinked seafns and neck. The lower half of ruchings. To this are attached the the coat shows a delicate embroidery plaited front and back pieces and full, in a harmonizing shade of brown. The flowing sleeves, which may be finished rolling collar, revers and cuffs are of with several rows of stitching or with the same shade of brown, embroidruchings. These cape jackets are ered in champagne and gold. Another casino coat and there is evolved also from colored silks, and in the case of natural-tone- d pongee they nothing nicer for wear over the fluffy, show Persian bands in delicate or delicate summer frock is of oyster Bulgarian colors, alternating with the white pongee, stitched three inches deep all the way round with black, shirrings on the yoke. For these coats in pongee ' there is and piped finely with black silk. Down also a fad for long, drooping shoulder the front, at intervals, are disks of capes of coarse lace, combined with black silk braid or cord, so cleverly brilliant tones in embroidered bands. sewn as to perfectly imitate a black The little coats which come just to button, an inch and a half in diameter. the waist line, for wear with fluffy These disks are also used on the narsummer gowns, are extremely gay. row, straight cuffs, into which the They are made from pompadour silk, plain sleeves are puffed, but the neck in daintiest colorings, with yokes fall- is outlined by a flat stole in pale Pering below the shoulder that are a sian embroidered bands. Both white and cream lierre lace mass of applique work in chiffon or lace. The slreves and bottom of the are popular for casino coats, and black roat hang full and loose, being joined chantilly comes woven into the necesto the yoke with a smart niching. sary pieces for casino coats and on In pale colors, etamine fairly rivals the more dignified dirrctoire lines. pongee. A loose casino coat which These must be made over foundations Bionic Jacket is round, in alter- ilka. open-mesh- Salads as Mme. De Ryther Would Make Them ed Pongee driving coat with of very thin silk in self tones, or black may be hung over white. For three-quartcoats, pongee is the unquestioned leader. It comes not only in the natural tone, but in the smartest of spring colors, such as sage or tea green and bluet A peculiarity of the inodes is the odd combinations shown in trimmings, particularly in appliques. The smartest coats do not show lace stoics or yokes, but incline to tailored effects, and this is where the odd combinations appear. For instance, a pongee coat cut on absolutely straight lines down the front has revers appliqued with stitching in scroll design. Where the scroll deflects from the throat there is inset a narrow vest effect of heavy linen canvas in tea green. From the end of this vest runs a double line of small looiw in cord, the same lint as the silk, caught with er WHY JAPS ADMIRE THE CARP. The carp, which plays so prominent a part in Japanese decorations, is also the principal dish at a high-claJapanese dinner. It is deemed to be the dish above all others upon which young men who desire a martial career should be fed, as its eaters are supposed to imbibe the courage of the black and acarlet trimmings. small velvet colored buttons, in the same shade of green as the linen canvas. The same decoration a p cuffs. the scroll-shape- d Still another combination is a natural-tone Shantung, with heavy broadcloth in forget-me-nblue forming the scrolls. - The broadcloth is embroidered and braided in natural-colore- d silk and gold bullion. the sauciest thing in beach Suite are the little box coats of and pure white serge, double-breastfinished with small gilt buttons. These are collarless, and the neck and sleeves are finished with a scroll design in cardinaj velvet, outlined with fine black silk braid. A white sailor with a cardinal rudhing of ribbon, a white duck or serge suit, and a par0 of white, edged with a hemstitched band of cardinal silk, are shown with this natty little jacket. car-on ot ed 1 Cavite's Strong-Minde- d Women HE markets are now flooded Green peppers, with the seeds remov- of dry English mustard. Mix these n- with tempting fresh salads ed and sliced in rings, make a delight- two ingredients well with a fork, and ful addition to many salads, especial- then begin to pour in the oil, a drop RIENTAL women are usually THERE are many more internaand new vegetables not pickly to a salad of shredded cabbage. at a time, stirring it constantly. weak and gentle creatures, tional marriages than the ed days and often kept in Romain escarole, chicory, dandelion, When the mixture gets very stiff but Filipino women are cold storage weeks before they reach endive or field salad, lettuce and wa- and waxy, thin it with a few drops of general newspaper reading fish. salads all make delicious then marked resume the Whentercress about. knows by y vinegar, tarragon exceptions, at least garpublic the table, but grown in near-bor mixed as one may pre- dropping of the oil. Continue this It is the bravest of all the Japanese the Tagalog women of Cavite on Mi- -' ever an American heiress marries a dens and as fresh as it is possible to themselves, fer to mix them. process till you have made the re- fish, and the only one that can swim nila Bay. Cavite, especially, is noted obtain them unless they are taken duke, a count, or even a baron, the Each of these salads should be quired amount of dressing. The yolk up a waterfall. Yet when finally in the fill its strong-minde- d for their of the lie will Philippines it is called French oil with will of still a one dressed absorb a bottle of what while country from one's own garden. caught perfectly great journals egg women. is perfectly made by of ordinary size. waiting to be killed. These qualities columns for weeks before and after It is possible to serve a very good dressing. tillThis well blended, a teaspoonAmong the vegetables which make of bravery, strength and resignation When a passenger boat arrives in the ceremony with news, gossip and dinner without a soup or without an mixing, ful of tarragon vinegar, two teaspoondelicious salads after being cooked are much desired by Japanese young Manila pictures that bear upon the occasion, Bay and drops anchor off Cabut fuls of good cider vinegar, three table- are new potatoes, young carrots, men, and happy is the family on entree, or without even a dessert, but when a plain, ordinary foreigner fleet a of canoes appears from vite, without a salad a dinner is a poor af- spoonfuls of fine salad oil, a gener- string beans, Jerusalem artichokes, as- whose table the carp appears at fre- shore. Each canoe is paddled marries an American girl who is by sevAlintervals. a and others. salt and ous of beets hundred a thousand, quent paragus, many teaspoonful worth less than fair.. With the whole earth teeming eral men, but in the stern of each, unin black of French a the is occasion the pepfreshly ground ways put the publicity given to dressing der a cotton umbrella, sits la duenna." with tender green things, it would be salad bowl before the salad is put in, No Coffee or Dessert in Japan. per. limited to notices in the' local papers. the woman merchant. ' It is a curious what think difficult to inmore at mix the table. will and it at This dressing present Always serve Some time these less prominent always prove Coffee is not popular in Japan. When fact that few of these boat merchants in a separate dish, or are accomnot to have thar what to have for a satisfactory just as it is for all the the mayonnaise ternational marriages guests arrive for a dinner party, they are men in Manila Bay. As the canoe besalad. Whether to have a plain or above mentioned salads without the pour it over the salad the momentboxpanied by more or less ' amusing inciare received in an anteroom and im- approaches the ship, its amazon ' additions of any other ingredient, yet fore it is served. Always use a dents. mixed salad, whether to have a for a Romaine salad a dash of Eng- wood fork and spoon for mixing and mediately served with tea and cakes commander issues loud, shrill orders Such a marriage took place in one the banquet hall. The which the men obey with marked ;rcneh dressing or a mayonnaise, ail lish mustard is a great improvement, serving salads, and be sure to always beforeinentering of the big Atlantic Coast cities the which the tea is served are alacrity. When she commands In cups and the salad lettuce cold a as as was have and for when father salad flavor a judgment upon depends brides The possible other day. a( plain very small and of the finest porcelain. oars I the paddles come in. ingenuity of the housekeeper and upon of garlic is most acceptable. This is served. well to do, but not rich', as we underWhen the canoe is fast alongside, They have no handles, but are passed of her of members the the tastes brideDE RYTHER.' best of clove a The JULE gargiven by crushing stand the term these days.. on metal trays, which take the form then begins the bartering. The of salads household. The lic inside of and rubbing the possibilities the salad groom was a gentleman, dont you of a leaf. The tea is brewed directly madam in the stern moves not an are illimitable. bowl with it. amf also rubbing the In Plenty of Time. know," but not a man of title, or of in the little cups, and served without inch. She does none of the chafferAll all uncooked and salads howl of the salad spoon and the tines green achievement. His fortune was about after sugar or cream. home brought ing, however; she simply directs her Margaret infresh of the salad fork. variables for salads must be equal to that which the bride will Dessert, so dear to the Occidental male crew, who meekly expose the and crisp. If they are wilted in the More salt is required with some school hours a little friend. For herit. The marriage seems .to have unknown in Japan. wares to the view of the passrngers; slightest degree, they should be wash salads than with others and with some while the two played contentedly to- housewife, been nothing more or less than a love At formal dinners rice forms the last bananas, oranges, cocoanuts, cigars drain in without cold water rd more onions in the For while very la met vinegar. Again. young example, match. They Pinking hostess ex course. It would be a breach of and chattering monkeys. She loses and put into the ice chamber of require more vinegar than lettuce, gether, then the young woman was traveling abroad, were enThe household which has cherished ing, in an eitquelte to serve the little cakes her philosophical equanimity as the and cused herself disappeared Before revive. to the the and tomatoes more and salt than home came refrigerator require old pinking iron may gaged before she which come before dinner with the tea trading proceeds, and her growing exgrandmother's outside all or room. them mixAmersalad. be Onions in other decayed any adjoining may bridegroom had never been now bring forth the treasure and put using this final course. citement betrays itself in her rising and teaves thrown should be.removed ed be of married. with She delaved her return beyond the during green salad, ami any sort ica until he came here to it to good use. For all the ruchings voice. a never it is But to better buy generally are a decided improvement period of politeness, and her mother He came alone. One of the ushers employed so largely this season a away. Juan! she shrills, show the Amerwas an American, who had never been linked edge is most effective, and the wilted salad of any sort, even though A lettuce mustard is indispensable went in search of her, to find the Monograms for the Summer Shirt. icanos the Cagayan cigars, not those, much it a cabbage salad. men with two Men cheaper. the summer soft get of shirts who have may you course, of and, in abroad, scallops irons can be bought Before using cucumbers for a salad While tomatoes make an excellent child kneeling in an attitude of made to order arc ordering good-size- d you fool no no those by the bar bad never met until the day of the various sizes. Point d'esprit frocks the room. To the normal English- have ruchings of ribbons or pjnked peel them and pack in chopped ice nr salad by themselves, they are always prayer in the center ofexclaimed embroidered upon nanas you idiot be quick ceremony. her them. monograms Juans stupidity snaps the last reMargaret." Why, of for a in ice althem water in bride mixed and is a it better the couple salad, reticence lay the has If a breast pocket, shirt natural man's taffetas, hats are trimmed with pinked hours. Then shake them dry in a astonishment being all the her Off comes madams slipper, mother, straint.' into better tomatoes than an almost be embroidered complete room showed monogram may quarter ruchings and all the smartest petti- clean towel. Slice them rather thin ways to slice them. iTomatoes are one of the greater by reason of her off- upon it. If there is no pocket, the and with a smack across his neck the on set ability for conversation, due as it later have coats ruchings and dress with salt and pepper, both the best of the fresh uncooked vege- spring's none too religious tempera- monogram appears above the cuff of Juan lurches over athwart This best flounces. pinked appeared to his diffidence. , Thebefore and tables to serve as a salad with may- ment, in goodness' name, why are the left sleeve. The smartest mono- amuses the passengers. Juan's fate tarragon and cider vinegars man learned this about an hour throws the rest of the crew into an of good oil. Either black or onnaise dressing, and one of the most you saying your prayers at such an grams are done in s, plenty the ceremony, when, in a jocular way, showing The Popular Turquoise. red pepper may be used; this is a mat- delicious salads ever compounded is of hour, and especially when your friend one of the colors appearing in the pat' abject state of panic, and they stum-bl- e he asked the Englishman how he was all over each other while maThe woman who is fond of tur- ter of taste. A few slices of onion tomatoes fringed about is all alone? tern of the shirt. feeling. scrambled 'to her feet. stones will like the new dog are always an improvement to a cu- Quartered dams slipper comes down here and Margaret quoise and dressed a watercress but fit, fit. very Oh, very there with a swish. Meanwhile the collars formed' from four, five or six cumber salad. Well, mother, she said, I want with a rich .mayonnaise. Never scald frightened, don't you know. strands of small ones, and held in salad of rad- the tomatoes1. to remove, the peel, for to pass my examinations, and I got Silken Card Cases Are Fashionable passengers above are in a roar, and a If are making the led you man. best the when Later, The summer card ease will not so their good humor makes them ready place bv straps of rhinestones. These ishes or of the tender radish leaves, to do so destroys .their freshness. to thinking about them, and the quests down the aisle, he, too, became new collars are enjoying a heavy sale dees them the same as cucumbers, Stand much as suggest leather. It comes in buyers. Finally everything is sold, said not 'do last Sunday preacher in in ice a them. .or the and chopped lady gave bit frightened," with summer girls. They look very with the addition of a suggestion of cold refrigerator three hours before delay,' and so I thought I'd ask God silk, plain, striped and moire, and in and the canoe turns shoreward, "a his right arm. After he had made one for intended silk covered with lace. Bits of point duennas voice audible until it merges with of the taste gowns soften gauzy to then him pretty told pungent sugar using, peel the. tomatoes quickly in plenty of time to lei me get trip down the aisle a friend he should summer hops. ' or duchess lace may be taken to the into the distance and the chop of the d the radish. with a sharp knife, cut he had made a mistake; that leather shop, and they will be made small wavelets. the things that make good them across in quarters. nearly to the Among have given the lady his left arm. Colors for the Summer Girdle. Philosophy. up to order over silk to match the stems bottom, but do not quite separate nasturtium are salads leaves, seem it the said may usher, Well," should be calling costume. dressed thin salad from with men wear The Latest Idea in Sashes. buds. Most the are These and them. them a silken to this For .in egotists Lay nicely girdles in the but bridegroom so to you, A bowl heaped dish, surround them with a generous other mans point of view. radishes. as same the summer frocks, in approaches and Sashes of soft ribbons, such nothing Engcase is an Englishman, Summer The Girl Believes in full of those beautiful green leaves fringe of watercress, sprinkle them Tucking lonisine and liberty taffeta, are show land the usher gives the lady his righth in daintiness and popularity the pomwith and fringed about with nasturtium well with salt, and serve with the Man proposes and disposes of a Tucking enters into every article with the ends knotted at intervals and arm. Don't you know that the Eng-lid- padour and Dresden ribbons,Another side borders of a solid color. blossoms, with their varied hues, mayonnaise powdered over the toma lot of things which wre entirely un- of the summer girls costume. Even caught with a small artificial flower m d always sit on the her handkerchiefs are tucked, the the same tint as the ribhon. Yello for girdles and makes an attractive dish to look upon, toes, or in a separate dish. necessary. when driving? It was only right that favorite combination and appetizing favorite design being a plain white roses, rose buds and cowslips To make a good mayonnaise, put r I should recognize the nationality of corsage choux is in the pastel shades. as well as a delicious And please don't forget that the hemstitched bit of cambric or lawn, used with A striking instance, which tones per- viand. The young white leaves of the the yolk of a raw egg in a bowl, stand color ' the bridegroom in this way. sashes, canary ir oyster plant, mixed with an equal the bowl in a dish of chipped ice (un- wonderful poetic ides that we have with a tuck the exact width of the with almond hlossonj This explanation, improvised for fectly with champagne frock, in pas quantity of chopped green onions or less the room in which it is mixed is are motly those which have been hem in a pale tint, running about half and roses with blue, d lavender blue and it but little a champagne, flimsy, was and poppy the occasion, pink, salad. make a before. silk. level in better add and done a an inrh of chives, from the louiine cool) shades tel good shape edge. very teaspoonful ribbon. same. the all cardinal with went geraniums T ss 0 ul , r . self-tone- thin-blade- . Left-Hand- ed left-han- forget-me-no- bnd-an- t ts |