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Show FOR WOMEN AND IIOUE. ITEMS OP INTEREST FOR MAIDS AND MATRONS. Corlnnu, u Finn of Louf i(o TrliUof tho lrofnMlonil Woman Mourning Gown How to Draw tbo Bock u Evo-nl- Gowua. Corluna. E deptha of mans dark soul, or thou couldst tell of passions fierce O'er which Its waves wild roll; nd all too deeply hadst thou learned The mans heart lore of wo- The thoughts In thine own breast that burned Taught thee that mournful part. Thine never was a womans dower Of tenderness and love. Thou, who couldst chain the eagle's power. Could never tame the dove; Oh, Love Is not for such as thee: The gentle and the mild. The beautiful thus blest may be. But never Fames proud child. When mid the halls of state, alone. In queenly pride of place. The majesty of mind thy throne. Thy sceptre mental grace Then was thy glory felt, and thou Didst triumph In that hour When men could turn from beauty's brow In tribute to thy power. And yet a womans heart was thine No dream of fame could fill The bosom which must vainly pine For sweet affection still; And oh, what pangs thy spirit wrung, Een In thy hour of pride. When all could list Loves wooing tongue Save thee, bright Glorys bride. Corlnna! thine own hand has traced. Thy melancholy fate, Though by earth's noblest triumphs graced. Bliss waits not on the great Mourning Gown. Mourning gowns no longer have the distinctive air which made the" pulslve to the average wonqin. tuey do not suggest something apart, a thing in the world but not of It. They do not parade the grief of the stricken with your sorrow and Jar upon It Therefore, It Is that the mourning drees of today has few distinctive features, but It Is made much on the same plan as a black gown for any one. Lusterless materials are still selected, but they are not loaded down with a crushing weight of crepe, that material which strikes a chill to ones very heart. Here Is a gown which Is worn by one of Gotham's daughters, who, while mourning a dearly beloved mother, knows that an extreme In somber attire is quite as illbred as an undue display of gaudiness. The material selected Is drap de'ete, which drapes and clings so delightfully. The skirt Is adorned with a braided design, starting at the waist in a single line and branching out toward the bottom in most graceful scrolls. The bodice back Is of the material, and so Is the broad vest. At each side of the vest, below the arms. Is a puffing of black moussellne. The same puffing appears on the sleeves, which are finished at the wrist with pointed and braided cuffs of the material, and at the shoulder with short, scant braided flounces. With the gown a crush toque of dull silk, with soft paradise plumes In black, and a dull Jet buckle is worn. Nothing more tasteful than this outfit can be imagined. extends to the iop wire ef ths dinner dances she wore a gown In FARM AND GARDEN. erally trellis. The operation of pruning ths black brocaded silk, the figures standvine is performed for the sole purpose ing out In mauve. The skirt was one of the fitted ones back and front, with MATTERS OF INTEREST TO of removing such wood as will not hear, or such as Is supposed to Interfere with AGRICULTURISTS. tiny chiffon ruffles around the foot. tbe production of the finest crop of The bodice was a pointed one. slashed fruit that the plant la able to mature. In points over mauve tulle. The neck Hlata About CalIts primary object, therefore. Is to rewas finished with a band of black vel- low llvatlun of the Boll ami Tlrlde duce the amount of bearing wood, and vet, below which fell a deep ruffle of Thereof Viticulture thereby thin the fruit, so that the roots Horticulture, ecru lace. The sleeves of the gown of tbe vines are not taxed beyond their and Floriculture. were mauve tulle over mauve silk. A capacity. gown of this kind can be duplicated in Fig. 2 presents a vine which has been cheaper materials with precisely the Good Hondo. cut back every year, and same effect as the expensive one worn systematically New Excellent work Is being done In Is once which more ready for its anby Mrs. Paget. Jersey In the construction and Imnual pruning. Ths various portions are provement of roads. The movement Is lettered, 1 being tbe stem, g the arms, Mid to have begun In 1893 by the For Evening Wear. 3 spurs, d the canes of last year, s ths A particularly graceful evening gown of a highway Improvement matured shoots of the last growing seae is made of clinging liberty association and the passage of a law son. Not entering hers upon ths subof d satin and adorned with Neapolitan vio Imposing upon the state of which Is treated In derenewal, ject the coet of good roads constructed unlets and green leaves. ws tail will assume that ths elsewhere, A comfortable evening cloak hangs der the direction of a state road combe is done to only for ths purpruning straight from throat to feet and Is of missioner. Under this statute 238 pose of removing superfluous branches. deep orange mirror velvet lined with miles of macadamized roadway has All ths fruit is of course borne upon 5 ermine. A small cape goes round the been constructed at an expense of the shoots, which grow from tbs buds mila to of state aad the havof a shoulders tawnier velvet, upward now found upon the canes; ths canes, the lion dollars to the counties and ing a high collar. This cape, likewise. must be removed and not the therefore, People cnn now older Is ermine-lineSeveral fluffy frills property-ownerfor the latter serves as the wood, travel upon a hard, mudless highway of pale yellow chiffon encircle the colframework which the canea are upon la and all kinds of weather. It is solid lar and form a Jabot down the front, In maintained. cutting away the canes mooth as a boulevard from Jersey fastened with a diamond clasp. wood which has not properly maell A short cloak for evening reaches City to Atlantic City and from Paterson tured should he removed, and those to Camden. The work of construction only to the knees. It Is made of a shoots which have made an excessive brocade, with branches of tie continued for a series of years forming bull canea, are also miles; growth, e lilac on satin and the lining In 1893 and 1894, seventy-fou- r d Medium undesirable. elxed, lf 1895, slxty-sl- x and miles; 1896, is white-fofur. A huge white-fo- x Is be and wood to e miles, etc. Ths cost has been preferred, and such wood only. Tet collar with an Inner ruffle of cream lace and lace ties in the front, complete llnlahed by experience from an ay- some of this wood must 1893 to $4,000 trage of $6,000 per mile in also he sacrificed until the amount alThe soil and othsr A handsome cloak is of Ivory bro- - 1 lowed to remain upon the plant is reIn Illinois are conditions PbJ'lcal woven Aswith threads of gold and duced to ths proper cade, t0 those of New Jersey that suming that the plantproportion. cut shorter at the back and sides than can mature the 11 belleTd the same methods and fruit produced by twenty-fou- r ) It Is in front, the front being cut in two buds (the would apply equally we lto number of buds left may long points. The lining Is first soft vary from two to fifty, or more) about thirty buds pink silk and then white chiffon, the to the new system has almost entirely could be allowed to develop. These chiffon lining being edged all around stats with chiffon flounces headed by a ruche lied out and the applications for the of violets. A deep shoulder cape of assistance are so numerous that from Increased be will appropriation violet velvet falls over three flounces The on pale pink chiffon and a plaited vio- 1100,000 to $300,000 this year. farmers found that they actually have let velvet collar lined with the pink amount of their silk and white chiffon. An lncroyable ave more than the taxes In their wagons, harrepairing bow of pink chiffon with its ends ness and In horse shoes, without fringed with violets and fastened with the wear of the animals and a diamond buckle completes this ex- the economy of time. The road comquisite evening wrap. missioner of New Jersey puts a practl-M- l lesson In mathematics before the Frofenaloiinl Women'. Trial. farmers. It costs 9ft cents a bushel,' While the business end professional be to ship wheat from Chicago says, women of today go freely if not always to BROCTON RENEWAL SYSTEM, New Tork, a distance of 906 miles. Joyfully along the line of their chosen It costs S cents a bushel to haul wheat should be uniformly distributed, acwork, it Is not long since woman was an a level road a distance of five mllee cording to the system of training empreached to and constantly reminded and on a sandy road It would cost at ployed; they may be left upon five of her duties, lest she should step out- least 9 cents cane having six bnds, as per mile to haul it The canes, each In the illustration, or ths distriside of the narrow circle known as shown with good of wheat bushel on a laving womans sphere. Jane Austin, out roads for a distance of five miles would bution may he varied according to cirof deference to the views of her rela- be about equivalent to that of 375 miles cumstances. But such Is in general the tives, concealed her writings from the by railroad. One mile of good roads method adopted In the vineyard for esgaxe of chance visitors by laying a would make a saving equal to seventy-liv- e timating the proper amount of bearing handkerchief over the pages of her miles of railroad transportation. wood to leave upon each vine. As a pruning the manuscript Mrs. Somerville was en- Thus every mile of good roads places result of such systematic treated not to bring disgrace upon her the producer seventy-fiv- e miles by rail fruit upon the vine la larger and more family by persisting In her studies of nearer to the markets. It Is estimated fair; It Is also produced more regularly, too heavy a crop mathematics; even the clergy was dis- that the coet of hauling 700,000,000 tons since the maturing of so vine that the It Is unable weakens Is $2 to was condemned from nf farm products market per quieted, and she even an mature to amount of average It la the pulpit. Caroline Herschel's glor- ton, or just about $1,400,000,000. A vine propfruit the year. following cent 60 ious work in astronomy was done amid also estimated that about per pruned and fertilized should bear discouragements, and there is some- of this last amount, or $840,000,000, erly about the same amount of fruit each thing pitiful in the thought that her would be saved each year if farmers year from the time It comes In full over good laborious life was embittered by social were able to do this hauling A secondary benefit derived The real cost of transporta- bearing. prejudice. But bow thoroughly wom- roads." from pruning Is the reduced stature of anly the most gifted women ever are! tion that burdens our agricultural This allows more vines to the plant. be of It Is the part Frofessor Marla Mitchell left the most classes," be says, a given piece of land, and be set delightful memories to her pupils, and tween the farm and the town or rail enablesupon of cultivating, spraywork the many a student endured the mathe- way station rather than between the to be performed much harvesting ing The matical work of astronomy for the sake railway station and the market. and more profitably. easily of the professors personality. One of loss .due to bad roads is one of the these pupils said that she had forgot- greatest wastes of energy connected Onion Growing ten all she ever learned about the sun, with farming as It Is carried on in this The most popular varieties of onions moon and stars, but she never could eouutry. for market are the following: White forget the gatherings where Miss Southport White Globe; red. Large Can Renewal. Mitchell was the hostess, and she Yellow G. should always remember the bouquets E. Lodeman, Department of Agrl Red Wethersfield; and yellow, Gentle' Globe Danvers, says Country and souvenirs at every plate, and the culture Report: A few terms must be man. There are others, but the shove poetry, In that print-lik- e handwriting, clearly understood before any of the details of grape training can be satis- are considered the best and most profitmade for every one of her girls. being greatest In factorily considered. The following able. Yellow onions Danvers Globe the variety, demand, definitions explain many terms used In Wedding Armnromratn. colto lta uniform bright shape, owing A is a this shoot 1, article: (fig. green s) A reader asks: 1. Is It proper to Is or excellent and universally quality, send announcement cards to the sisters or Immature growth less than one year of the groom if they are not at the old. A cane (fig. 1 d) Is a matured accepted as the standard; It will keeff better than any other kind, and even wedding? 2. Should one wear hat and shoot, as found at the end of one year's if accidentally frozen in storage, 11 a Is matured An arm 1, (fig. a g) if growth. married in gloves traveling dress? more Us of covering la added and it is left age; 3. Is a bride ever attended by two la- cane, two or more years alone until thoroughly thawed, it will from not form are and changed dies and no other escort; and if ao, length where do the ladles stand? Ansver: 1. year to year. Its office being to produce come out little the worse for Its expo It certainly would be good form to send canes or branches. An arm is also fre- rience. The writer has grown no other the cards to all of the relatives. Such quently called a "cordon. especially by variety for market for fifteen years. Much of tbe success of the crop depends little courtesies should never be omitupon the quality and freshness of ths ted. 2. If one is married at home the seed sown; it Is better to pay a dollar are not needed, but If hat and gloves a pound more for a selected strain of a the ceremony is performed in church seed house than to be fooled reliable good sense demands that they be worn. seed is by cheap seed; northern-grow- n 3. There is no reason why two ladles In the California. to yield preferable may not attend a bride; Indeed, It of onions per acre there is a very wlda might be a very pretty idea. They range, from two hundred to one thoushonld stand Just at tbe side of the sand bushels; and these numbers art bride, and on a line a trifle baeft of the extremes either, for occanot quite her position. IDEAL VINE RENEWAL METHOD. sionally a crop of 1,200 bushels Is heard Europeans; the cordon Is spoken of as of, and it is by no means uncommon to A Little Lcarnl:ig I a Dnngrrou Thing. horizontal, vertical, or oblique, depend- see crops of less than 200 bushels; bul Saunter A. Long Dey may sry all ing upon the direction In which It lies a man who can average 500 to 600 may dey want ter 'bout tie pleasure in being on the trellis. ' A branch (fig. 1, h) Is consider himself a successful onion eddirateil. I know dat my early edu- an arm which varies In form and length while 400 to COO is a very fall cation in hygiene has taken away from year to year, being modified by grower,The width of the rows, the qualcrop. nearly half dc pleasure In eatlii fer the addition of spurs, or by the cutting ity and quantity (varying from four ts me. away of older portions of Its body. It six pounds per acre) of seed sown, tht Everett Wrest 'Bout all de eddlcr.-tlo- n Is commonly composed of spurs more adaptability of the soil, and the extent a feller really needs Is enough ter than one year old. A spur (fig. 1. b) is to which It Is fertilized, the attention be able to tell de symptoms of fatigue. a shortened or pruned cane, generally given to cleanliness and cultivation Saunter A. Long Dat's no dream. bearing from one to fonr buds; If cut these are the factors governing the slz But now I can't even eat a twisted longer, such a portion is commonly of the crop. fried cake wlt'out all de Joy In de act spoken of as a cane and not a spur. bein' knocked galley-weby ms Spurring refers to the operation of cutActing Secretary Melhlejohn of ths knowln dat I've e t ter pat in free ting back a cane to the length of a navy department at Washington Is arhours stlddy work digestin' de tlng. spur. Stem, or trunk (fig. 1, I), refers ranging to send a military expedition to that portion of the vine found below up the Copper river route in Alaska ta The poor man who marries nowa- the origin of the lowest arms or map out tne topography of the country days usually finds himself wedded to branch; It extends to the ground, in and finally establish the value of this art. the.Knlffln system the atom proper gen route to the Klondike gold fields. tu pale-blu- one-thir- $466,-19- s. d. rose-color- pale-blu- short-jointe- one-ha- x Gumdropa Are Loaded. Confectioners nowadays are turning their art to something besides the production of harmless sweets. For ine stance, there Is the gumdrop. It comes In little, fascinating red drops that come forth in the dressing-rooor some sly corner to do duty as a rouge pot! Think of the frauds those red candles are! But that's what the red comfit that leads this double life can do and nobody be the wiser for It. Its not so easy to carry a box of red paint and a little rag around, but a that no candy la so blameless-lookin- g one would guess It would ever, In passing between the portals of pearly teeth, rouge the lips on the route and say nothing to any one about It There Is another use to which the harmless little bonbon Is being put that of carrying cologne to brighten the eyes. Eat a piece of sugar common loaf and put a bit of cologne on It and see what happens. They say that It brings tears to the eyes and that the velvet orbs swim In moisture that adds to their brilliancy, but it Is something of an new-styl- m experiment to try it. However, there are girls who do this sort of thing and no amount of argument would keep the cologne candy from their lips. Wine comes in for a share of the confectioner's art here. And when it comes to French liquors and all their temptations It docs seem hard that the chocolate drop may not be trrusted long with the other things people believe In. Another thing that muBt be put down with the shattered Idols of the person who has lost faith in bonbons Is the fact that belladonna Is carried about in them, which, when swallowed, makes the eyes grow dark and large about the pupils. All these candles are made In forms that closely resemble the other simpler ones, so that only an expert could tell their hidden charm. But the girls have some sort of a code by which they become aware of the rontcnts of the mysterious ones and know how to buy them with the eye of the connoiseusc. The wine candles are hard to carry about and soon perish if they are not speedily consumed. They were originally designed to give the girl a bit of choice refreshment between the acts. Draining the linrk. Mrs. Almeric Hugh Paget of New Tork has been giving some very pretty dances to the youuger set In honor of her brother. Captain Payne Whitney of Yale, and at all these entertainments none is as tastefully dressed as the hostess herself. Mrs. Paget Incounyoung public. Dame Fashion no longer wear herited from her mother, the late Mrs. says tenances such garb. She a talent for gowning herself it wear Whitney, not do but If black you wish, a to announce your grief. Wear it rather and from her father At good share' of the last of her diplomacy. Whitney are Incongruous because bright colors well-matur- ed Ifty-on- , well-develop- ed i j i con-ilderl- st |