Show WHAT SHODDY REALLY IS ISM M Meet rt People Imagine the Term Signi flea fiet Something Cheap and I Natty Nasty I I ITo To most mOlt people the term shoddy signifies lignifies something cheap mid and nus nasty but goods good made from the class best best class rags are superior to many cloths made from tow low grade grade wools A revival re re- rival vival In dem demand nd is II the more likely as one of the ho great offices office of tIll the shoddy hodd trade Is U to keep down the level ol of ot ott t prices for tor wool goods The use of sub sub- substitutes substitutes for wool has in the past been due to the insufficiency of the lie worlds world's supply of wool to make all the clothing demanded and this insufficiency is Ii very nry mark marked d at the moment In Eu lii rope The tendency during the war var was to use more wool and less ings rags Many of the normal sources of supply of rags rag on the continent and elsewhere elsewhere elsewhere else else- where were cut off ort from British manufacturers manufacturers man and new rags such as tailors tailors' taU tall ors' ors clippings remnants remnant and patterns were scarce Thus there was WAI a check to the manufacture of shoddy using the t term rm to cover cor all kinds kind of regenerated regenerate regen regen- I crated erate wools wool In n a restricted sense shoddy denotes the soft lOft rag wool obtained by br tearing up UI long long goods but ina In InI I x a m wider er sense sen it signifies all manufactured manufactured wools as contrasted with natural natural nat nat- ural wools and and Includes mungo mango which is I. obtained from short short rags extract obtained cloths of mixed cotton and wool In which the cotton Is II reduced to cellulose by the action of sulphuric acid and the wool fiber preserved and finally the flocks and wastes of different kinds which are collected in the woolen and worsted tact factories rles from the carding rooms weaving sheds shed and fulling mills These machine wastes are usually sold direct from the factory II The manufacturing processes for tor shoddy hoddy ave ate elaborate The rags are first freed treed from dust and dry cleaned In a mechanical shaker and then sorted sort fOlt ed according to their color or quay ity Buttons and seams are ore r removed ed and AM the rags pass to the grinding inn mn- chine where the fibers are teased out preserving preen as far as possible their original length With n a mixture mixture of New Hew Zealand or other f strong rong wool shoddy makes a good yarn while mungo mungo mungo mun mun- go Is used in many of the best beat fabrics chiefly In the weft thread or Is employed employ ed along with a cotton warp In the cheaper cloths Rag wool thus finds its way into many sections of the woolen wool wool- woolEn en n trade and its total consumption Is estimated to exceed pounds per Der annum One of the great difficulties confronting confront confrontIng ing the Industry Is lack of proper standards for the raw material Rags vary Infinitely In quality color and condition since every class of cloth serge sergA an and tweed as well as limited materials such as stockings are pre pre- prose 1 ed ell Into service Uniform grading Is unattainable especially as the work worl of the rag sorters must vary The blending of rag wool is Important since the combination of colors secured ed edby by proper blending is eagerly sought after alter To Insure Inure a correct blend blond requires requires re rp- quires a fine taste and a sense of ot color harmony which are comparatively rare London |