| Show 4T The Big Apple 4 1988 The Salt Lake Tribune Sunday September Walking streets of Manhattan is best way to get around By William A Davis Boston Globe Writer NEW YORK — “During the tong wars this was called ‘the bloody angle’ because there were so many ambushes here” said guide Stevens Laise as we negotiated a dogleg turn in Doyers Street a narrow Chinatown byway hung with tattered posters and redolent of Oriental spices Like every other Chinatown street this Sunday afternoon Doyers was crammed with people buying a variety of Chinese goods from Peking duck and green tea to decorated fans and antique Buddhas Shopping was conducted in a babel of Asian tongues and dialects: Mandarin Cantonese Fukienese Thai and Vietnamese among them I stopped for a moment and tried to visualize a band of tong warriors hatchets in hand padding silently down the twisting alley It wasn’t hard I was on a walking tour of Lower Manhattan one focusing on ethnic neighborhoods and led by Laise a tour guide and part-timmuseum director In the process I was learning a lot about the nation's most multifaceted city Most of all though on this and other walking tours I was to discover that New York is very much a pedestrian’s Manhattan’s charms is an engagingly illogical street pattern one more like that of Boston or London than the rigid grid plan of Uptown Manhattan There is only one major hotel in Lower Manhattan the Vista International Hotel a Hilton International property tucked between the towers of the World Trade Center and directly across from the new (still unfinished) World Financial Center The Vista is usually pretty full on weekdays but come weekends the businessmen and financiers depart and it empties out To fill this void the management has come up with a program of attractively-priced weekend packages — rates are about half what they are on weekdays — with some imaginative extras including the only organized walking tour progam offered by a New York Hotel There are morning and afternoon walks every Saturday and Sunday each lasting about 90 minutes focusing on a different aspect of Lower Manhattan led by a knowledgeable guide The walks are free to hotel guests I recently sampled the Vista walks program which is how I happened to be marching through Chinatown in the wake of Laise whose main job is that of executive director of Federal Hall Memorial the Lower Manhattan historical museum that stands on the spot where George Washington delivered his inaugural adress Tall and enthusiastic Laise kept up a brisk pace as he led his walkers across the turf he knows so well "Lower Manahattan is relatively undiscovered" he said pointing to a spot where the macadam had worn away on a SoHo street to reveal the original cobblestones “but everywhere you go the city is trying to break through" It was the kind of small but revealing detail that brought an entire neighborhood in this case trendy SoHo into new and perspective I looked around at the narrow street lined with grimy buildings and for an instant saw it occupied not by fashionable yuppies on a shopping stroll but horse-draw- n wagons and and beshawled serious black-suiteimmigrants for whom streets like this had been the first stop on their journey into America By the time I looked up from my cobblestone reverie Laise was striding off in the direction of the Haughwout Building an ornate cast-irostructure that replicated — on two sides anyway — a Venetian palazzo I had met Laise — a tall erudite man with an infectious enthusiasm for urban minutiae — in the lobby of the Vista He immediately shepherded me and three other hotel guests full-tim- e town “The traffic is impossible and you have to walk or take the subway to get around but walking is best” said Arthur Marks one of the Big Apple’s acknowledged walking gurus "There are all sorts of walking tours available for every borough of the city” A tour guide and consultant for the New York Historical Society and the 92nd Street Y Marks has led walking tours for more than 23 years “I try to make my tours amusing and anecdotal” he said “I love sharing New York" There is a lot to share of course and there is some sort of walking tour for almost everybody from art architecture and history buffs to shoppers and birdwatchers A part of the city unusually rewarding for the walker is one New Yorkers themselves often don’t know much about: Lower Manhattan This is the oldest part of the city — site of the original Dutch colony of Manhattan — and has a concentration of remarkably varied neighborhoods including Wall Street (which follows the line of the old Dutch log SoHo with walls) its many trendy art galleries Chinatown Little Italy South Street Seaport (New York’s equivalent of Fan-euHall Marketplace) and the World Trade Center The difference in atmosphere within a few blocks is often astonishing as when you go from Chinatown fo Little Italy or from the World Trade Center to SoHo Abetting the unpredictability that is one of Lower 19th-centur- y d il n into a van that dropped us off by a statue of Confucius on Bowery Street at the edge of Chinatown the most vital of New York's old ethnic neighborhoods Because of changes in the immigration laws Chinatown is more Asian now than at the turn of the century Laise noted and is very much the kind of immigrant neighborhood so many of our grandfathers knew "There are about 120000 Chinese and the area is in a state of flux” he said “but there are 450 garment factories and more than 500 restaurants in Chinatown now” As Laise was talking a bus pulled up and a group of tourists got off and began snapping photographs of both Confucius and us They were Chinese tourists part of a tour group from Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia Walking through a Chinatown filled with the aroma of frying dim sum — a traditional Sunday treat — Laise pointed out the sort of things that an unguided walker might miss Among them were several little shops where fowl were being eviscerated and aged for Peking duck the headquarters of still active tongs (organizations now primarily devoted to social and welfare activities) the Chinese School and — on Mott Street Chinatown’s traditional main drag — a storefront Buddhist shrine busy with supplicants and pungent with incense "This used to be known as ‘the international boundary’ ’’ Laise said as he led us across Canal Street and into Little Italy The smell of dim sum instantly faded and was replaced by an almost cloying one of Italian pastry Mulberry Street Little Italy's main commercial artery is lined with restaurants cafes and pastry shops but significantly there are now few pizzerias "Little Italy peaked in the Laise noted "Now there are only about 6000 Italians left and Chinatown is expanding into it" The international boundary is shifting in other words Much of the old residential neighborhood feeling is fading but Little Italy remains a bastion of Italian cuisine Laise paused for a moment in front of a popular old Mulberry Street restaurant Umberto’s Clam House noted for its seafood and the part it played in mob history "That’s where Crazy Joey Gallo was murdered in 1972 at his 45th birthday party” Laise said A number of new restaurants have opened in recent years trendy and upscale places with sleek Milanese-styl- e modern Italian decors — such as SPQR and II Cortile — and very different in atmosphere (and price) from the spaghetti and meatball eateries once synonomous with Little Italy "There has been an Italian revival here” said Laise “and that's a hopeful sign” mid-1920- Puerto Ayora —A Galapagos step back in time That sense of mystery remains Gray-blacswirls and coils left by flowing lava at the turn of this century still virtually intact stretch eerily as far as the eye can see at Sullivan Bay on Santiago Island Marine iguanas their heads like armored helmets shaped at the dawn of time sun their grayish bodies on rocks at James Bay also on Santiago Island The giant tortoises — the name Galapagos comes from the Spanish word for tortoise — lumber across the landscape much as their prehistoric ancestors did They are the world's largest a ranking shared only with a species on the Seychelles the islands in the Indian Ocean Sailing in a yacht we were able to visit six of the islands in five days and see a wide variety of animals birds and reptiles m their natural habitat as well as hike over volcak high-pitche- Time" “They contain mountains forests beaches and bays unlike any others on the earth” she said “Here animals and plants have evolved into unique forms some have survived scarcely changed from prehistoric 48-fo- times" Indeed there are nic a visit to the islands — 13 large ones and dozens of terrain The trips are regulated by the Galapagos National Park Service which limits visitors to 26000 a year Tourists are restricted where they can walk so they don’t disturb the small ones and reefs spread over about 18000 square miles — is to go back in time Charles Darwin the English naturalist visited the islands in 1835 aboard the ship Beagle His observations were key in formulating the theory of evolution In his book "Darwin and the BeaAlan Moorehead quotes Dar- gle islands' ecology We slept and ate aboard the yacht Food was prepared by a cook who used local products to make such Ecuadorean specialties as a mashed potatoes and cheese dish called ceviche topped with pop The neighbohood Hall itself an elegant Federal building that seems far too small to be the seat of government for so vast a city City Hall was built in 181 1 when the population of New York City was about 100000 Actually many city departments are housed in the nearby Municipal Building a pioneering skyscraper built in 1914 Across from City Hall is Park Row the journalistic hub of the city in the last century — the Times Herald Tribune World and Sun were among the major papers with offices on it — but the row is now newspaperless Gold pointed out a few poignant reminders of the newspaper heyday among them statues of crusading editor Horace Greeley and pioneering publisher Benjamin Franklin and a memorial to Joseph Pulitzer the founder of The World for whom the Pulitzer Prizes are named A stone's throw from City Hall is an unmarked monument to municipal corruption: “The Tweed Courthouse” This w as a local courthouse erected in the 1860s by the famously corrupt mayor William (Boss) to be built for — much of which is constructed of Carrara marble — ended up costing $105 million "Tweed liked big projects" Gold noted “He was responsible for Central Park and the Brooklyn Bridge” Tweed could easily monitor the construction progess of the bridge from his office window since its access ramp begins just to the east of City Hall Park towers of the The twin World Trade Center now dominate the skyline of Lower Manhattan but for many decades it was ruled by the Woolworth Building at 233 Broadway Completed in 1913 it was the tallest building in the world until 1929 when the Empire State Building topped it No longer the tallest the Woolworth Building — headstore quarters of the chain — remains one of the most beautiful office buildings in the country "It's a cathedral of commerce" said Gold pointing out the beautiful stained-glas- s windows mosaics and barrel-vaulteceiling of the lobby “I worked in the World Trade Center and we used to bring binoculars to work so we could study the details of this building it's incredible” said a fellow rubbernecker There are even a few playful touches: Among the sculptures decorating the entrance is an amusing caricature of company founder Frank Woolworth shown as a gargoyle counting nickels and dimes Tweed 110-stor- y corn and desserts of sweet tomatoes A guide approved by the park service traveled with us pointing out boobies lava herons and swallow-tailegulls by day and constellations by night Never having been threatened by humans the islands' creatures are extraordinarily tame Nearly all were unfazed bv our presence Enormous colonies of sea lions some swimming others sparring and one even nursing a pup on South Plaza Island let us walk gingerly among them without scurrying away Some even turned the tables and inspected us A young sea lion pulled himself out of a shallow pool at James Bay to get a closer look With his tiny ears alert he sniffed a friend s white jogging shoe before slithering away to dry off on a warm cliff A tiny penguin darted around us swimming as we snorkeled in beautifully clear water near Pinnacle Rock on Bartolome Island A pelican maybe hoping for some leftovers from our cook perched atop the motor on the dinghy behind our yacht A few creatures were decidedly unfriendly and we weren't certain about the intentions of two sharks spotted circling one night when our becalmed yacht stalled for more than an hour during a long sail in the deserted waters between two islands The captain of our boat reassured us that Galapagos sharks were special like the islands' other creatures ' he said with a big “Vegetarians smile blue-foote- d d d 1 - i I'if ) itiVf ' - - - a Four years excellent placement record We teach on Delta Air Lines computers-th- e most used airline computer in Utah Unlimited computer practice hours All training in one location 801483 6417 A - Division 800888-669- Ol Morns Ask M' Foslpi a taurants Multifaceted endlessly fascinatd ing and with compact and neighborhoods New York is a city that richly rewards those who explore it on foot For the walker who doesn’t want to join a tour the city visitors’ bureau provides a selection of maps well-define- and borough and neighborhood guides Write to New York Convention and Visitors Bureau 2 Columbus Circle New York NY 10019 or call An area of the city particularly attractive to walkers is Lower Manhattan the oldest part of New York The only major hotel in this section of the city the Vista International — located between the towers of the World Trade Center — offers free guided walking tours as part of its discounted weekend package program For information write to Vista International Hotel 3 World Trade Center New York N Y 10048 or call River to River Downtown Tours 375 South End Ave Suite 19U 375 South End Ave New York NY Cus10280 telephone r tours of Lower tomized Manhattan are offered for individuals or groups Rates start at $35 for one person $50 for two A program of guided walks entitled “Take A Walk” is conducted at noon Sundays from different locations by Joyce Gold an author and New St Chambers York N Y 10007 Several nonprofit organizations offer guided walking tours of city neighborhoods with emphasis on historical artistic literary or ethnic interests Among them are: Museum of the City of New York Fifth Avenue and 103d Street New York N Y 10029 Telephone Tours depart each Sunday at 1:30 pm from different locations The charge is $10 for nonmembers ’ New-Yor- k Historical Society 170 Central Park West New York N Y 4 10024-519- Telephone 4 Six r Sunday neighborhood tours are offered annually There is a $10 charge The 92d Street Y 1395 Lexington Ave New York N Y 10128 teled Has a phone r program of weekly tours meeting in different neighborhoods at 11 am each Sunday Emphasis on cultural artistic (some walking tours include visits to artists’ studios) and Jewish interest Most tours cost $10 to $15 two-hou- year-roun- five-hou- WE KNOW THE WORLD two-hou- Manhattan history teacher The charge is $8 For information call US VEGAS unites) LOS ANGELES MUNDw 278 4 nites) SAN D1FGQ ’339 SAN FRANCISCO 359 2 Two guidebooks especially useful for anyone poking around Lower Manhattan (which includes the Financial District Chinatown Little Italy SoHo Tribeca South Street Seaport and the Battery) are: "Get Into New York — Guidebook of Lower Manhattan” by Beth Gleick and Lila Sherman (House Publications Service $250) and “From Windmills to the World Trade Center — a Walking Guide to Lower Manhattan History” by Joyce Gold (Old Warren Road Press $350) A walking-tou- r map detailing sites associated with the Bicentennial of the Constitution is available from the New York City Commission on the Bicentennial of the Constitution 52 ORLANDO (3 nites) NEW ORLEANS —318 (3 ntes) 313 Air Fare and hotel accomodations Dbl Occ No Includes some Advance Purchases restrictions apply HAWAII self-guide- d Includes DELTA SKYWAYS KSJ 521-833- FARE and 7 AIR Nights Accomodations 6 204 East 900 South Soil toko City Ut 14111 e Delta Ogden 399 MAZATLAN Includes round trip air 4 days Hotel Costa De Oro on the beach RT transfers hotel taxes 4 daily breakfast ‘699 HONG KONGTAIPEI from SLC PUERTO VALLARTA $429 from air fare from Salt Lake 4 nights5 days hotel acc round-tri- p transfers boggage handling and taxes Round-tri- Stops SEOUL p TOKYO HONOLULU ‘599 TOKYO from LV Low Season Prices CABO SAN LUCAS MR SOUTH AMFRtCA 417 Best deep sea fishing 4 days beach front hotel air fare and taxes and up per night 11-2- Otter expires SEPTEMBER 8 11 Round trip air fare 4 days hotel 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architectural gems including City five-and-di- Associated Press Writer win as saying about the islands: "Here both in space and time we seem to be brought somewhere near to that great fact — that mystery of mysteries — the first appearance of new beings on this earth" guages” The tour ended with a walk down Nassau Street a typical narrow and low-risstreet of Old New York that is now a pedestrian way: and along Fulton Street to the old fish market and the relatively new South Street Seaport A lively shopping and dining area the Seaport incorporates some of the city's oldest buildings brick counting houses and seamen s as shops and restaverns y By Sally Jacobsen PUERTO AYORA Galapagos Islands Ecuador — Dolphins their bodies luminous in the black sea swam alongside the bow in the dark moonless night playfully racing our sailboat as it cut through the water on the second night of our trip to the Galapagos Islands A few hours later they frolicked just outside the porthole of our cabin waking us up with their d whistles seemingly to watch their midnight antics By then we were hooked on the wonders of these fascinating islands located some 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador in the Pacific Ocean and populated with strange and unusual birds reptiles and animals "These islands are a unique entity related to no other part of this planet" writes Tui De Rov Moore in her book "Galapagos- Islands Lost in On another walking tour Vista guide Joyce Gold led me on an informative stroll through the historic area just north of the World Trade Center Also an enthusiast Gold teaches Manhattan history at the New School of Social Research has read "about 800 books about New York” and has written a guide to Lower Manhattan: “From Windmills to the World Trade Center” Cutting through the Trade Center we walked over to City Hall Park Heart of the original city this undervisited neighborhood is the one from which New York is run Municipal offices local and federal courthouse the Federal Reserve building (which contains far more gold than Fort Knox) the Tombs prison and police headquarters are all in the vicinity "New York has always been a cosmopolitan place” said Gold looking up at City Hall "In 1643 there were only 700 people in Manhattan but they spoke 18 lan- 3 $o n SOUTH 12997® CIAPKS Jtohwiaii 199“® 197“® COMPLETE ITINERARIES AVAILABLE CALL NOW - 363-792- 2' aranpuRiy uhnvii A DIVISION OF MURDOCK TRAVEL : 60 E So Temple Suite SLC Wt also offtr toweit “turoilpais" and Hotel accommodation throughout Europe fraw S I C Air ‘trnd fetp tr wbd ta net InrMed la v-- UT 841111004 - 355x8800 250 |
