| Show 2T The Salt Lake Tribune Sunday March 27 1988 A cottage in the heart of old England can be just ducky Continued from T-- l With the navigator shouting “keep left” we managed to handle the roundabouts and motorways with “effortless skill” and nerves of steel As a pink mauve sky appeared signaling the approach of dusk we wheeled into the fairy-tal- e village of Broadway glowing in its mantle of golden Cotswold stone Broadway has long been designated the quintessential Cotswold village but considered by some as perhaps too “touristy” After spending a week there we found its atmosphere friendly its glorious stone buildings full of green grocers butchers and shopkeepers all offering warmth and comfort to newcomers Villagers stop to chat with strangers and offer a spot of tea Plan you trip for spring or fall and the “tourists" will be less in evidence A mile south of Broadway we found our cottage in the miniscule village of Buckland This 13th century village takes up all of one lane As you drive up the road a 15th century Rectory appears on the left and a 13th century church on the right with 14th Century Buckland Manor just behind it Buckland Manor a charming country hotel with a fine restaurant nests on acres OH rich Cotswold soil and offers riding tennis swimming and a nearby place to dine when you find home ccroking getting a bit old to the right of the manor lies Buckland Estates a group of 16th century Cotswold stone cottages We 'found the key to Haywain Cottage and our adventure began Haywain jewel of a two story cottage surrounded by blooming plants soon $e?ame more than just a resting ' lace After a day of hiking over the etswolds climbing stiles greeting herds of Shetland ponies nodding hello to sleepy-eye- d sheep and stopping for lunch at a local pub returning at nightfall to Haywain was really like coming home With your own cottage you have choices Some evenings might be spent in front of your own fire eating d grub and relaxing Another night you might dine at the table of a well known purveyor of fine cuisine such as the 600 year-olLygon Arms Hotel in Broadway Impeccably run by Kirk Ritchie this coaching inn with its 67 individually decorated guest rooms serves some of the most imaginative cuisine in Britain The elegant dining room with its long gallery and arched ceiling offers the freshest of vegetables from the nearby Vale of Evesham cooked ever-scrisply Fresh fish and game and classical dishes are prepared home-cooke- d o with great artistry Desserts are outrageous Check out Sticky Toffey Pudding for an ambrosiastic finale to a special dinner If your appetite craves simpler fare or your wallet a rest try the Lygon Arm's wine bar next door Goblets Avocado baked with stilton cheese or baked brie with cranberry sauce are among the many combinations available On Willersey Hill above Broadway stands another fine hostelry farmDormy House a 300 year-olhouse with 50 antique decorated rooms attracts guests who prefer to stay above the “madding crowd” Head Chef Roger Chant concocts such succulent morsels that Dormy House’s dining room ranks with the best After visiting many of Britain’s country hotels and restaurants our consensus is that the best of Britain's cuisine rates a resounding A But don’t dismiss the pubs hidden in the tiny Cotswold villages either each with its own specialities A leisurely exploration will take you through one of the most enchanting areas of England with its rushing streams stone bridges and picture-perfevillages Follow the Cotswold Way over the hills behind Buckland to Stanton a tiny 16th century village built entirely of golden oolitic limestone Mount Inn Pub serves famished hikers as well as locals Curried dishes pizza salads chili Bangers and mash (sausages and mashed potato) are all on the menu d Bourton-on-th- Water e Moreton-in-Mars- Chipping Camden Chipping Norton Burford each is worth a stop for its pubs antiques and ancient churches Fairford an old market town is known for its 14th Century church with 28 stained glass windows that tell Bible tales White Hart Inn a handsome old pub off Market Square serves such excellent fare as fresh seafood hot duck salad baked mushrooms and steak and kidney crust that blospie with a soms like some great balloon filo-doug- h One of our cottage stays was a few miles away in Little Fanngdon We missed a turn backed up again and stopped to look at our map A car pulled ahead of us the driver got out “I noticed you were somewhat lost” he said “May I help you?” He had us follow him all the way to our destination Motto: If you must get lost do it in England In Little Faringdon we stayed on the 800 acre estate of Lord and Lady de Mauley They have refurbished the 18th century stone cottages ' - h Upper and Lower Slaughter Upper and Lower Swell around their manor house Langford for guest rentals We had The Old Cottage full of antiques Laura Ashley fabrics and much loving care Modern kitchen and bath cosy room and well furnished bedroom are ideal for two people Our hosts were very helpful and led us to the world's best smoked salmon If you have a hankering for fresh smoked salmon Minola Smoked Products is the place Located on A361 near Little Faringdon their sign is a blue garbage bag hanging on a fence post Drive in and buy all the smoked goods you see fry the smoked quail eggs They'll mail products everywhere When you re out of salmon have dinner at a country hotel A brand new entry in the hotel-stakecompetition is located near Wyck Hill House was built in the 1700s on top of a Roman settlement and it has recently been transformed by some very talented Texas women into one of the handsomest small country hotels in England Sixteen suites and bedrooms are furnished with antiques and fabrics that reflect sensitive taste The public rooms are nothing less than spectacular An Adams ceiling and mantel s have been uncovered and detailed to dazzling effect Ian Smith one of England's noted chefs runs the kitchen with a creative hand His parfait of chicken livlaced ers and terrine of phea-an- t with port are just two of his many specialties If you arrive the winter holidays special feasts are planned Winter and early Spring are ideal times to visit England Prices are lower and the landscape takes on a Dickensian quality London theater is at its best and w ith a EntRail pass it's easy to go into London for a day to absorb the sights and sounds of this most civilized city Leave your car at arv station and ride the rails into the heart of London After a day of enjovmg city life a leisurely train ride and you re back m the quiet countryside We tried it a few times and the contrast was rewarding Our final cottage was at St near Tenbury Wells Brook Cottage a two story brick houe surrounded by flower gardens carefully tended bv owners Vicar and Mrs is placed the Hevwood-Waddingtoerfect distance from the main ouse along a genuine babbling brook The friendly owners delight in their guests and are most helpful m suggesting outings around and out of the area n The Fairmont Legendary hotel celebrates 95th year By John DeMers UPI NEW ORLEANS — The legendary lodging that played host to “King-fish- ” Huey Long gave the world the Sazerac cocktail and inspired Arthur Hailey to write “Hotel" is kicking off a year-loncelebration of its 95th birthday The Fairmont which began life in 1893 as the Grunewald and entere tained presidents back to Calvin as the Roosevelt is planning a party aimed at equaling last year's 80th anniversary observances at the flagship hotel in San Francisco “The Fairmont in San Francisco always occupied roughly the same position in the marketplace as the Roosevelt in New Orleans” said company president Richard L Swig “Both were constructed around the same period Both were basically controlled by an individual family for a long time They both have strong personalities They were the grande dames of their cities the places to see and be seen” In all eight presidents have stayed under the New Orleans hotel’s roof including Dwight Eisenhow'er John Kennedy and Gerald Ford Other world leaders from Ethiopia’s Haile Selassie to Mercury astronaut Alan Shepard have called the Fairmont home during visits to the city The hotel’s Blue Room located just above what is believed to be America's first nightclub is itself the oldest surviving supper club For 20 g Coo-lidg- Writer years beginning in 1932 the Blue Room played host to daily nationwide radio broadcasts of music The Fairmont's origins however go back considerably farther than the scratches and static of that first radio connection to the dreams of Louis Grunewald and a hotel constructed “to be in full readiness for the Carnival of big-ban- d 200-roo- six-stor- y 1894” The Grunewald attracted such a clientele it was able to introduce another 400 rooms to the chimes and whistles of New Year's Eve 1908 At first the future looked bright for the Grunewald by that time run by the founder’s son Theodore Yet illness not only wiped out the young man’s plans for an even larger hotel but helped convince him to sell the place to a syndicate of New Orleans business leaders in early 1923 Renamed the Roosevelt and recomworked into an elegant plex the hotel was ready for perhaps its single most evocative period Manager Seymour Weiss a young fellow from Cajun country who had started out running the barber shop hooked up with the fledgling politician Long The rest is history Long soon took up residence in the hotel doing business over already-famou- s Sazeraes whenever he wasn’t beating the legislature into line in g Baton Rouge or trying to intimidate President Franklin Roosevelt in Washington According to lore Long e built a highway from his Capitol to New Orleans just so he could reach the hotel without undue delay Long often received national journalists and even dignitaries of foreign governments in his hotel suite sitting in the middle of his oversized bed wearing clothes both casual and 90-mil- outlandish One outfit (green pajamas red and blue robe blue bedroom slippers) inspired one reporter to tell his readers the governor of Louisiana looked like “an explosion in a paint fac- tory” By the time “The Kingfish” was gunned down on the eve of a presidential bid in 1939 Weiss had become his unofficial treasurer insisting all contributions be made in cash He later went to prison as part of the “Louisiana Scandals” a federal investigation that netted many of Long’s partners in corruption Things quieted down a bit after Long's death but there remained more than enough passion and intrigue within the hotel’s walls to lure novelist Hailey and his notepad Today’s staff which includes veterans of nearly 50 years remembers the writer picking through both the front and back of the house scrib bling his impressions of nearly everything that went on Some staffers can even identify characters in the book Interestingly when the novel “Hotel” inspired a television series of the same name its producers chose the San Francisco Fairmont to “portray" the fictitious St Gregory It looked a lot like the New Orleans property and it was a good deal closer to the West Coast television industry Since its purchase and renaming in 1965 the Fairmont has undergone several renovations Yet to hear Swig tell it things like new plumbing wiring and carpeting are mere instruments to orchestrate the main themes set down by his father and especially by his Boston-bormother when they first took up residence in the hotel the comforts “My mother of home" said Swig "She insisted on bedthe finest cotton triple-shee- t ding There had to be four pillows all goose down — two hard and two soft so you can choose And her favorite china had pink flowers in the center and a pink border “We still use it in her memory for room service and the butter is shaped like roses with petals It’s a lot of effort — but what nice touch750-roo- n es" M - 11 Li - niran— ORE WEEK IN HAWAII FOR ONLY $18700! 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Registered in Panama and Liberia See Your Travel Agent for full details and Sitka jjtijtbir Cell or visit year I Kulh I laujvm Sku-U- - M - i Him I 4 mm Tzr'd 1 £zrr C 1‘He Arnff u !j ft it tr - 75 South West Temple I iprrsv 1 RpUii1 Vtvk ( n 1m AH Rghit HwrvJ 328-973- 3 o o |
