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Show 4. 12F Salt Lake Tribal Tfce Wednesday, Jaly 20, 1963 Even on a holiday, food editor must eat and cook of the subject? With thanks to Elaine Tait By Its vacation time. If the travel writer wants to get away from it all, he can stay home. The music critic can wear earplugs. The television writer has simply to pull the plug. But even on holiday, the food writer eats and, invariably, cooks. Consequently, even the most serious attempt at escape ends with a mental notebook crammed with tidbits for this column. I give you the gleanings from what was officially a few days off last week. Maida Heatter is in the process of writing her fifth book 'on desserts. The early books have all been bestsellers. It was she who baked the famous key lime pies dropped by klutzy Secret Service men at the economic summit at Williamsburg, Va. Her husband, Ralph Daniels, once owned a very successful restaurant and is Maidas expert taste-teste- r. put-dow- n. Both Are Delightful Both are delightful, low-ke- y people I had met professionally but had come to regard as special friends. When they called to say theyd be in town last week on their way from their Miami Beach, Fla., home to the Hamptons on Long Island, N.Y. (where they were visiting Craig Claiborne), I impulsively invited them to dinner. And began to worry. It was a fairly safe guess that their pampered palates would probably enjoy fairly simple fare. With that in mind, Id serve braised breast of veal stuffed with spinach, ricotta and pine nuts; thickly sliced Jersey tomatoes sprinkled liberally with fresh basil; fresh green beans with butter, a salad of wild rice, marinated Mozzarella and black olives, and some fresh figs with lime wedges. Ah, but what does someone who doesnt much like desserts concoct for those who have made a life study 1 Jay Schaeffer, a talented chef, I settled on homemade ice cream textured with homemade almond macaroons and served with fresh nectarines. Hand Trembled Did my hand tremble when I measured the almond extract that went into the ice cream? Probably, because while my guests accepted my offer of seconds, I had the nagging feeling half the amount of almond flavor would have sufficed. When I violated an old dinner-part- y rule (never criticize your own food) and mumbled something of the sort, Maida agreed quietly and in such a gracious way that it seemed more like praise than a A day later, I visited my favorite cousin, Mary, at her parents farm, but I hadnt known that wed be joined by one of her childhood friends, a woman potato farmer from the area, and that Id be discovering a new restaurant thanks to that friend. The meal was interesting, inexpensive and surprisingly sophisticated. Another felicitous food experience awaited me on Saturday, when the same cousin and I drove to the Catskills to visit other friends who had moved there recently. Marys friends, both retired teachers, responded with great style to cooking for the newspaper food writer. On a free-fortable made locally from a wide section of tree polished to mirrored perfection, we piled our plates with diagonally sliced London broil, cooked perfectly on a propane grill. Big Onion Chunks There was creamy, potato salad, made from a genera-tions-ol- d family recipe and, from Atlanta, where the couple had lived until three months ago, big chunks of Vidalia onion. The onions are fairly perishable. Their season is quite short. They were mild enough to eat out of hand Newspapers er Knight-Ridd- m cool, crunchy and absolutely perfect with the steak and potato salad. It was obvious that they had been hoarded for a special occasion. Knowing that made the meal seem downright elegant By Sunday evening, Id managed to squeeze in two more restaurant review meals, had lined up a collection of good Polish potato recipes from the farmers mother, eaten tiny, sweet steamed clams at a small-tow- n church picnic and had applauded the young waiter at a n resort on our way to the Catskills for his honesty in telling us to stay away from the chicken soup. It has bones jn it. Visit An Uncle There was even time on this to visit an ailing uncle. By encouraging him to talk food, I had brought a sparkle to the pale (once very blue) eyes of a health makes him grudgingly accept the care of a rest home. Measured by the standard that says a vacation must take you away from what you do for a living, my d five days of experiences had been a resounding flop. I worked food-lace- every minute, I tell my editor, and because of that IU simply have to get away again soon. He smiles. You dont suppose hes on to me? well-know- A salad whole-me- al a delicious whole-mesummer salad by lightly splashing white wine vinegar onto warm diced, peeled cooked potatoes; mix and cool. Add cooled, cooked fresh, or frozen cut green beans, whole pitted small ripe olives, canned tuna, d egg whites chopped (save yolks for garnish) and crispy, coarsely chopped toasted walnuts. Moisten with mayonnaise; season to taste with garlic and onion salts and freshly ground pepper. Chill well. Serve in a lettuce-Une- d bowl with top garnishes of sieved egg yolks, tomato wedges and large walnut pieces and halves. 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