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Show THE UINTAH BASIN FARMER Furs, Flares and Femininity Rule Your winter coat if it is to measure up t the standards set by the chic Parislenne writes a Paris correspondent im the New York; Herald-Tribunmust met these requirements ; It must be extensively trimmed,, preferably with one of the flat furs- - And It must be elaborately feminizing save fc Its Informal and sports versions-Aof these manifestations of me contemporary mode have made their appearances to other portions of the smart wardrobe but in no- other Item of dress are all three combined with such decisive finality. And! inasmuch as the coat Is the standard-beare- r of fall and winter fashions it is advisable to consider each of these themes fa detail before welcoming this new member and it will have to be new this season into1 the wardrobe as your e, H sartorial winter guest. First, because it is most obvious the fiare. The crystallizing of autumn fashions has demonstrated the supremacy off the broadened silhouette over ail others- - Here and there of course; you will see a gallant remnant of the old straightline still! striving to hold Its head high but the element of ehle this season requires some definite interpretation of the flare- - Particularly En coats and however great your affection for the pencil! silhouette you win dd wisely to forget it when acquiring this most visible and paraded member of the winter outfit. The fiare- - in varying degrees and in different types is a distinct feature of coats designed by ChuneE Patou Lanvin surely a distinguished triumvirate. In a Chanel model which dress the is worn over a straight-lin- e flare is of the sudden type and it is definitely visible at all times. Scarlet erepella is the fabric of both coat and dress. Jean Patou's coat contribution exploits the sectional fiare more moderate than the first ami commencing at a slightly higher line. Tins is an example of the far bruited kinetic silhouette which is converted into a swinging outline when its wearer is in motion. The fluxing portion Is achieved by the separate front sections. A Lanvin coat exemplifies the broad silhouette rather than the strict fiare. Its distended effect is inaugurated at the shoulders and It continues to widen gradually and almost imperceptibly EntD It reaches the hemline. This Is forerunner of the coats f next season. Use of Fur Trimming The tendency to include the fiare eTen where the fabric used Is the sportsmanlike English wooLen is pro- Separate Coat in New Winter Modes Garment Should Be Chosen With Future Costumes in Mind. neglect of fur by being lined through-owith, the identical fur used as s trimming This is another modish note which is peculiar to tbe current season and which as well has the unqualified sanction of the smart Parisienne. In. general fiat furs are the outstanding pelts which are used to trim the new winter coats, and almost every short-hairefur has been used. Tltere is a strong tendency toward high trimming colors, to match the fabric of the coat and luridly-dye- d pelts have made their appearance as a result. As a rule though the smart Parisienne adheres to the natural colored furs as a trimming since she historically hesitates to gild the illy. The third potentate in this new triumvirate is a little less tangible and, perhaps has not progressed qnife as much as the other twoi. The feminizing off fashion has been steadily gathering momentum since last summer yet there still remain unbelievers who will point to isolated models as a substantiation of their skepticism. Femi- ut Always excepting the new hat, or the new little frippery that is needed to add a piquant air to the plainness of the costume that Is a legacy from the season past the separate coat Is far and away the most Important acquisition of the new mode. Against its background of fabric color and line will be built the costumes that the season to come will demand. And these separate coats differ very little If at all from the ensemble coats bought as a part of a costume suit. They fail naturally into the same divisions of the suit some model of which Is possible for every occasion of the day from early morning until late evening or early morning again 1 al For they are utilitarian, sports and formal, with a generous representation, of tailored types. It will be readily seen that the separate coat Is an economy since Lt may be chosen; with, future costumes In mind and Its color may be,, in a way,, a dependable one against which gay-et- y and brightness and unusual shades may be silhouetted If it is to be really serviceable. It must not be chosen In one of tfce off' shades let the frock d semi-form- -- Of Russian inspiration is this chic Cossack costume, fashioned of black broadcloth with leopard skin collar and border. Completing the outfit is a leopard skin purse. fabrics than all of one material adds appreciably to- the value of the separate coat. For the cloth coat may have a dress of any fabric,, and velvet combines with cloth, crepe or silk. e ensemble or And popularity facIs another of harmonizing colots. decoat success of the tor In the vaa with wear signed for general riety of dresses, resulting In a variety of costumes. And designers of coats playing up to the ensemble Idea have made Individual selection enticingly easy. Tbe warning New coats feature materials with a soft, rich pile. And there will be a deal of velvet. If fashion displays have been any Indication. Tbe wools and velvets alike are remarkably supple and easy to tow-plac- ed nounced. A Chanel model measured in square feet, has almost as much nutria surface as ft has crepetla, which Is the foundation of the coat. The cuffs extend about eight inches back from the vrrlst. and the generous fur collar refuses to be repressed until it terminates in a huge circular band which is placed at the hem line. Patou's fur application Es similar in that it Is applied at tbe same places, but it Is not quite so generously employed. This is an English wool model in a beige color and the trimming fur is a matching beige renardeau applied modestly at neck and hemline and so lavishly as to simulate a muff n the sleeves. Slrttyneox and Lanvin models, while less prodigal In the application of fur trimming employ tt in the newest and smartest manner. Mo trimming at the hemline, which is in accordance with" tbe tendency of the chte Parislenne to concentrate the ornamentation at the top. leaving the tower section to be elaborated by the various silhouette devices. These models atone for their hemline ap-pea- rs Smart Cossack Costume Is of Black Broadcloth of-th- Purple Retains Favor; Combinations Attractive In spite of the fact that the past rammer witnessed a vogue of purple almost unprecedented In. the history be chosen thus but in. a tone that win of that particular color from a fashion harmonize with many other tones. point of view it still occupies a place Since one's first Impression of the of considerable Importance In the costume ensemble Is the outer wrap modes. tt may truly be said that the outfit Paris It Is said regards with will stand or fall by the coat of tt t favor a shade deeper and richer than And tbe very fact that more of these the color which was so popular In costumes are made up of contrasting America in the season Just past and In addition to a deep purple with a bine rather than a reddish cast has launched a new mulberry tone called Hints on How to Make Prince so dark that at a dls- Footwear Comfortable Black tance It appears to be black. Buckled shoe are sometimes loose For afternoon costumes and for everound the instep. If tbe portion "of ning frocks the Lighter shades are leather to wblch the buckle Is sewn. l chosen and frequently two or three nnsewn and firmly stitched a little shades of the same color are combined further back Inside the shoe this wilt In the most subtle fashion. The majority of evening gowns are tighten tt. and give greater comfort carried out In chiffon with embroideries to the wearer. Shoes a tittle too big and which rub to which pearls, beads and brilliants may be made comfortable by fixing a axe Interspersed. Embroidered bands smalt length of narrow ribbon velvet fastened to the shoulders and waist In the heel of the shoe with seccotine frequently are seen. In other models or a pant tittle fixtures sold at most Insertions of chiffon in different colors add to the individuality. shoemakers for the purpose. The tong sleeved afternoon frock of of shoe any part a pinches If patent La boiling water transparent materials which attained soaked foot rag the should be placed over tbe part while such success during the summer apthe foot Is to the shoe and the leather pears to several new Interpretations of particular Interest. vrtll soften to the shape of the foot. Charming Coat of Cloth With Mink. Auturnrt-Re-d Cuff Needlepoint; Coftar and of Gray SquirreL nine fashions connote greater formality Increased elaboration and generally more mature atmosphere, and while some of tbe new coats may atilL refute one or more of these themes, the advancing season will witness s alL steady march In the direction of three. Every mode, without even the ex OTtos-seeeptlon f the usually mannish of evidence product offers mute fashions. new the softer feeling In the O'Ros-se- n Tbe tailormades of Patou and are cut on generally straight. lines, but there is none of that bizarre se of verity which characterized the era in elaboration And the mannishness. so apis which fabric and trimming to parent n some coats. Is ampte the from them dearly differentiate simple and overinformal youthful fashion cycle that has a stytes of reached the end of the long road m I Trimmed |