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Show ii'rri M iiirniiifiiWitrirri-'-'"nifffiif- i INTERVIEW WINE Shopping till we drop Vintage selections for wine lovers JiV LYNN GREEN BY EVEZIBART idea of country, and a generation, accustomed to immediate gratification, the for wine either to understand it or to enjoy it is only beginning to Even with the growing availability of wines by the glass or tasting flights, most Americans still know few words of winespeak beyond Cabernet and and still think them synonymous with steak and seafood. And the Chardonnay Bastille fell or the 19th century concept of drinking wines that were bottled before the strikes to been do, as Ive turned, many casual and perfectly contented lucky enough drinkers as sheer pretension. But for those who may be increasingly intrigued by the subtleties of the world's wines, the Christmas season turns up several prime gift ideas. Robert Paiker is the gorilla of wine criticism, and during the last few years has arguably become the industry guerrilla, as well. His own personal preferences and the undoubted power of his ratings, published monthly in the Wine Advocate, has clearly pressured many winemakers to alter their style. And his castigating of other wine writers who accept free samples is more than a little disingenuous purchase more than 75 percent of the wines I taste, and though have never requested samples, I do not feel it is unethical to accept unsolicited the holiday season approaches, our thoughts turn inevitably toward the task that some of us diead and others relish Christmas shopping. (If youve ever wandered aimlessly through a mall on Christmas Ive wondering what to buy for Aunt I.dna, youre in group number one.) Shopping has become a huge pai t of the holiday, and indeed a big part of everyday life for Americas conspicuous consumers. In his lunch new book, I Want Unit! I low Ue All Bcuinic Shoj'crs lilarpcrCollins, $24.95, 224 pages, ISBN ()((i()IS51 12), writer Thomas line takes readers on a journey thiough the history ol shopping. Despite its whimsical title, llines book isnt a light hearted look at the jovs of consumerism, but a serious cultural exploration ol how and why we colled things. A writer lor Iliiladcldna magazine and the author of lour previous books, lime recently answered questions and the for liooklage about shopping, a As For d I meaning of holiday gift-gi- (I 1 ing. v BookPage: Why dont men enjoy shopping as much as women do? Thomas line: About two thirds of women and about one third of men say they enjoy shopping. The reason women like it more, I suspect, is because they see it as a way of exercising power and responsibility. Shopping is a big part of the womanly job that emerged among the 19th century middle class of creating the circumstances of family life: what your house will look like, what your children will wear, and what everyone eats. Women have been brought up to see this as powerful. Men often see such tasks as an imposition, one that gets in the way of doing things that are real and productive. Probably my favorite fun fact that came from my research is that if men and women are placed on treadmills, men will walk faster. But if they are placed in a mall, women walk faster. Thats because she knows where shes going. She has something to achieve. Hed rather be somewhere else. 1 What qualities make a good shopper? A good shopper exhibits the same combination we find among the gatherers of the Kalahari: clear focus combined with openness to opportunity. Shopping often involves paying attention to many things at the same time. That means not just a vast array of merchandise, but also children and other shoppers. Marketplaces have always offered the opportunity to find out whats going on in ones village or culture. Good shoppers take what they do seriously. Why do we buy things we dont need? Who says we dont need it? Thats a serious question. Our neighbors and relatives extravagance is a lot easier to see than our own. The person ahead of me in line at the cash register always seems to be buying something unnecessary and ridiculous, while my purchases are absolutely necessary. Insecurity plays a big role in shopping decisions. We are more likely to buy when we fear that, if we dont, well miss a great opportunity. Everyone loves a sale because its an opportunity to consume, and at the same time feel righteous for having saved so much money. Many purchases that go unused were seen, for a moment at least, as rare opportunities, too good to miss. Is shopping strictly a activity? Occasionally, and especially when on vacation, everyone goes on a binge of purchasing. But most of the time, shopping is not so much a one. You are what you eat, what you wear, where you activity as a live, what you sit on and sleep on, and what you buy to make you feel better. For wives and mothers, and some husbands and fathers, it is also a activity, one of the ways in which we nurture those we love. nt nt family-definin- argue that shopping hasnt destroyed the power of Christmas, but can be part of enhancing the spirit of the holiday. How is that possible? You ly g actual- I estivals involving gift exchange happen in all cultures. Gifts create and reinforce ties and obligations between people. They are a way of channeling consumption in Gift-gi- v ing to reinforce family and social ties is not ways that bring people together. an appendage to the Christmas holiday. It is the center of it. Are you a holiday shopper yourself or the type who plans ahead? I am a I man in that hristmas always seems to take me by surtypical suppose prise and throw me into a state of acute anxiety. Studies show that women start shopping sooner than men, spend less per gilt, and are satisfied with the result. One peculiarity of Christmas is that it doesnt oiler a good role for the man; even in the Gospels, Joseph is a sort ol C Whats the best Christmas gift anyone has ever bought you? Socks. I can always use socks, 16 BOOKPAGE DECEMBER r 2002 samples.). Although the latest (the sixth) edition of Parkers Wine Bayers Guide (hardcover, Simon & Schuster, $60, 1,648 pages, ISBN 0743229312; paperback, Fireside, $30, 1,696 pages, ISBN 0743229320) occasionally falls prey to this sanctimony, it is yet another example of his thoroughness, bulldog bluntness and unexk translations of winemaker jargon are priceless, pected humor. His as are his comments on the distinction between consumers and mere collectors." Nor is he a price snob: lis lists of regional best bargains under $12 or $15 should be bookmarked for quick reference. Still, this may not be the best choice for someone just setting out to make respectable choices from restaurant wine lists. Parkers knowledge of seasonal affect, so to speak, may be more than many beginners need to know, although serious collectors will find his summaries of older vintages helpful. The books subtitle describes it as The Complete, Reference on Recent Prices and Ratings for More than 8,000 Wines from All the Major Wine Regions, and one can well believe it. Michael Broadbent has been a Master of Wine for more than 40 years and head of Christies wine department for 35 years. His Vintage Wine: Fifty Years of Tasting Three Centuries of Wines (Harcourt, $50, 560 pages, ISBN 0151007047) is an unobtrusively erudite mixture of history and anecdote with it has an personal observation and characterization British well, sense of good and, unmistakably propriety sportsmanship. Broadbent writes with a fine painterly palate, to force a pun, and a sometimes surprising sensual abandon that fully captures each wine. Again, however, this is a fairly compendious reference aimed at the serious drinker, or at least the platinum-card diner. The small but g Oz Clarke's Pocket Wine Guide 2003 (Harcourt, $14, 320 pages, ISBN 0151008760) is disappointing only because the limited space allotted each entry Clarke covers regions, specific wineries and varietals alphabetforces him to omit the ically pungent thumbnail witticisms that are his trademark. But it would be a fine volume to keep in the cars glove compartment for unexpected buying sprees. The revised version of Clarkes New Wine Atlas (Harcourt, $60, 336 pages, ISBN 0151009139), on the other hand, is very nearly what it sounds like a collection of maps but its glossy photos and labels and intelligence are just the tilings to remove a budding connoisseurs terror of terrior. tongue-in-chee- 1 Easy-to-U- Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher have made their career, and marriage, drinking as unabashed ordinary people, and their Friday Tastings" column in the Wall Street Journal is democratically aimed at casual wine clubs and amateur collectors. The Wall Street Journal Guide to Wine (Broadway, $26, 304 pages, ISBN 0767908147) is ideal for novice wine drinkers, focusing on the basic flavors of various wines basic in description, too, which may reassure less experienced readers put off by hints of tobacco or musty bookbindings. Its not a comprehensive guide, and is sometimes too conversational (Whoa! the first blind flight of these (New Zealand sauvignon blancs blew us away!), but it would make a good gilt for a neighbor youd like to swap Friday dinners with, Eve Zibart is a writer for The Washington Post and author of The Ethnic Food Lovers Companion. |