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Show TheSalt Lake Tribune _ _OPINION Friday, June4, 1999 All Mom WasR Right: Beef Wellington Stands to Be Conquered Another Day Trying newrecipe is always a Hor advice was sound. Andis this day unfollowed vf Wellington, tenderloin fi urrounded by puff pastry, ended to the list of myfavorite furl afer L tried it at the stun- ning carriage-house-turned1» taarant One if by Land, Two if 1) Sea in Greenwich Village | wanted to try my handat it » Tm always in search of | perfect dish to serve compa: sid Wellington fits all the cri ty ir I looks harderto makethan nis, is well knownas an “exive” dish, and it can mostly be head of time. So ona lazy ubty in St. Petersburg ona day substituted formed legumes fe the tenderloin. 1 struck out again in the Inti mate Dining: Memorable Meals for Two recipe book. which was a nice gift from friends, but the portions ROBYN BLUMNER nbl “s expensive, timeousul ng and fraught with pomother,an epic forth tuilure. My ways warned meagainst ook, try tins recipes out of books, ne md magazines. “Thi weve od as they look,” she sutioned. “Stick with things 1 \e tried at friends’ homes.” for “two” areso small that they all need to be doubled anyway. And. of course, there was no mentionof Wellington in A Neapolitan Peas ST PETERSBURG TH ant’s Cookbook. which 1 bought Not so hot that the mere thought of turning on the oven made me stroke, | went lookingfor a recipe because the picture of the lopsid: ed, grayish-icinged zuppa Inglese (English soup) cake on the cover for beef Wellington t, T perused the cookbooks on mykitchen shelf. The few was by far the ugliest food I had books Ihaveare all now annotated with my notes on each attempt “not good,” “awful.” “a lot of wor with not much payoff,” with the at-homereferencelibrary: the In- ever seen prominently displayed, With nothing on the bookshelf that would suffice. | headed for my ternet. If you search the term “beef Wellington.” using the Alta Vista search engine, you will come upwith448.930 hits Nowthat’s morelike it eaided as the transmitters ie uilture, Without an indigenous rspective, noted Sara Mendoza, inunity organizer and a stu. 4 ceremonial “dang S many women of Mexic: in do not believe they to be in the United «\ pass this on to their fa It becomes a legacy of ion. recently helped organize four-day “Cihuatlatokan in ian” gathering ina forest in ihern California. Its purpose: redefine what it means to bean nous woman and to discuss Mecting ourbe rrios from tligenous petspecity of the Cihuatlatokan is to liberate women vative thinkingand to. to be assertive. The vo that Mendoza, 25, works whether with the collec- 1 ie with elders discovering holt indigenous roots “fight overcignty, with love of the she added Native people from North, id Central America are \ uo longer responding to at ivainst them defensively ents in common: beef tenderloin, puff pastry, mushrooms and liver pate. Liver pate? 1 foundit amazing that liver anything was in wondrous, sa vory Wellington. Liver was the only food that ever made me gag (other than Vegemite). Once. whenchoking on a smidgen of my mother’s renowned choppedliver, she advised methat liver called an acquired taste. I've always wondered why anyone would botherto do that, condition taste There were recipes galore frompeople's kitchens. from“beef councils,” dismantling somekind of natural defense mechanism. wasn't helpful, unless even learned, a la The Salt Lake tically. you Instead, they are creating a con: sciousness within these commu: nities of their connectedness to VERSAL PRESS SYNDICATE tn ine noussocieties Althoughtherecipes varied, all seemedto haveafew key ingredi sional “excellent!!"thrownin (mostlyondesserts). On the beef Wellington front, there wereno offerings. The veg tarian Moosewood Cookbook from newspapers. 1 ‘ndigenous Women Build Communities BY PATRISIA GONZALES \) ROBERTO RODRIGU! Tribune, thi beef Wellington was ed g ter the first prob D e of Wellington who defeated Napoleon at Waterloo Pm OK with that the land. “ 's the foundation iororganizing,” Mendoza said. “It buildsaspirit of righteousness.” In the indigenous Mexican Aztec languageof Nahuatl, Cihua means woman, Tlatokan meansplace of dialogue, and Aztlan refers to their northern homeland. At last month’s Cihuatlhate kan gathering, a group of women, from elders to teen-agers, explored how to build their communities as strong indigenous women. Ap proximately 70 women gathered from Mexico, Peru, Guatem: Kl Salvador, and, of course, “Chicanas from Aztlan,” said Mendoza. “We broke down bor ders of exclusion.” also an attempt to un It was derstandtheprocessof globaliza tion. “Economicglobalization is a formof control over nature. per Xicana (Nahuatl for Chicana) in: digenous women in the United States Intense political scapegoating this past decade against the communities has dehumanized and thrown these populations off balance. Only by building community, by reintroducing themto their original cultures can they heal and regain their spiritual balance, Mendoza believes. Despite hundreds of years of cultural colonialism, manyof the people fromthese communities do indeed yearn for what was once theirs said Mendoza. This past helped bring back the Aztectradition to one of Los Angeles’s historic Eastside neighhorhoods, the Aliso-Pico housing complex. There, seniors and chil dren learned the dancetradition of their ancestors, culminating witha community-wide ceremony on Dec. Land12. Mendoza points out that her ple and culture,” she said At thegathering, they agreed “is to listen and to workto. said Mendoza, that Cihuatlatokan will be “a network ‘union of free pueblos [peoples]. communities and organizations.” The Cihui Jatokan gathering was also a pre: lude to the third international » ‘palabra’ [voice] to her com munity, That’s the key to community work understanding that knowledge is already in people. The objective is simply to bring it buds to accept something they're naturally repulsed by. It’s like Thenagain. | thought syllogis if liver is in beef When wetaught danza to them, you never had a woman dance alone; they brought their chil dren, We're all interconnected That’s the indigenous view. We reject individualism. We believe that sovereignty is within every individual and that ourspirits are sovereign.” In explaining the importance and relevance of ancient indige ceremonies, Mendoza relat nthe struggle to bring new life into our communities, we reflect upon the wisdom and knowl edge ofour ancestors to guide our journey.” All this is done with love, she said. Andfor her, the highest form of loveis transmitting her knowl edge to her 4-year-old daughter Kelatztli. “The Cihuatlatokan and all the other ceremonies | attend areforall the babies in our community. We are laying a founda tion for themto growfrom. Weare redefining what a community is for us, since we have lost much of that basic knowledge. “One day my daughter will continue to redefine the Cihuatla tokanfor her generation and as an indigenous woman take alittle in St came from the Beef ‘infor Centre of England, & ing from England it m thentic and because it had “easy” in the title. Disregarding my mother’s voice telling me what a mistake 1 was making by trusting a $12 roast to an unproven recipe source, | went shopping for the ingredients During my days living in Greenwich Village. the famous Baldueci’s gourmet food store would typically havein stock the most obscure ingredients from French frisee lettuce to elephant ear mushrooms —that appeared ‘onthe recipe page of that Sunday's New York Times Magazine, som times displaying them in the main aisle. For some reason the local Publix supermarket here hasn't followed suit J found that out while trying to liverpate After failing in n search at a number ¢ markets, and wondes ir wood de might substi tute, | returned to the phone book No luck. There store that advertised etitally a “fine pates.” But it was pure t closed Sundays. boot Well I never got to tr ington that Sunday Putiny deter mination was tnd wl. 1 had put too much in te turn back. By the time J actually collected all the ingredients, 1 was making “that damnWellington How did it com: out? Pretty bad, whichis what I scrawled atop the printout before myrecipefolder. | s11-ss right Then again, stalling it in Momwas may le went heavier on the mt WT just ooms and nixed the liver jit Military Takes Step to the Right BY ROBERTRE sine there were at least two NEWSDAY The American military is certified, newly commissioned le shedding its apolitical traditions prevented a more cultured man ina trend that could soonlead to an exclusively right-wing, deeply partisan officer corps If you doubt . the results could be seen recently at what might have been a glorious day in the 160-year life of the Virginia Military Institute that degenerated into a low farce. Two proud diespresent, gallaniiy might have from making patronizing refer ence to them. Not Liddy. He urged that women revert to the secoud. class role they pliyed in World War Il, which he said they per formed “splendidly” Clearly, Liddy's notion of the ileal woman soldier is WAC Lt. Kay Sum mersby playing endles~ rounds of women warriors strode into his- bridge with her tory as thefirst female graduates of the venerable school where lie pursued the Germans across buried such immortal commanders as Stonewall Jackson and George Marshall. Anda proud and unrepentant convicted burglar gavethe commencement address. You neversaw so manyobvi ously embarrassed grown men as the superintendent, faculty and most of the graduates who had to sit through G. Gordon Liddy’s speech. It was explained that it was matter of VMI's honorthat Liddy be heard because he had been the second choice as a speaker by ballot of the senio: and AntoninScalia couldn't make more ofour Aztlan back.” Vetersburg, hausted Gen. lv the ex Kisenhiower. ay he North Africa and France The VMI class of 19 is Likely to contain a few future generals, perhaps a NATO coniiiinder or chief of staff, What's wore certain is that their polities will he more those of a Liddy than Marshall Polling of senior shows that between 16, they went from beir Republican to 67 prt mid 1996 percent publican. Those calling themselves ine dependents, oner a majority, are nowthe exception. ind liber outnumbered tte} in 176. are now outnumbered 61 out conference of indigenous women in Panama in August. The collec: tive will be sending seven dele gates to attend and present a hu manrights document regarding “When you bring women to: gether,” she continued, “they share their strengths and beginto, heal. 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