Show i the 0GDGirsTAimMDTKaimsg 1ZZT ) 9 v ( iW V 3 yJkWK tCs? 7 ’ r 7' k- L A v ' ' 'J r--V A A' ? ELEGANT EIGHTIES Quaint Old Cart ! iA i r V54 I I 3 f ' ! VNf MW AAyAA! T fr : (i V J 7"" SHORT SKIRTS’ PROGRESS :NJ -- ?i s -- s ma-get- hl&tftQ w— hia--to- ry ’ evil-mindedn- ce ' : s' t vf V s 4 r f Vtt U f’Xth 'i 'r I ‘ I ' ih'ivniiKilfr m A: ( NAUGHTY NINETIES Fay Templeton Famous — and Ampl — Mauva Dacada Seubrette iq “Daring” Tights and Botasseled j plush Girdle Curiously enough this story is found in the early literature of every known civilization Eve’s “knowledge of fcood and evil” imparted to her husband s L:r: i a-- - 4 o ' ’ T REN you were a kid did you evey get a Christmas gift of a cake so big thht it lasted a J whole year? Impossible you may sayi But it isn’t r Mileast not in Germany This pleasing little girl InfK photo at left is shown m happy of one of these “stollen” ms possession the monster cakes are called (there is no English equivalent for the term) She ts a rtsidentof the Spreewald that charm- Picturesque locality an hour’s y? Yfrom ride Berlin justly famous for its canals and its nursemaids 1 The whole town Is canalized and the inhabitants pay social calls via raft and rowboat In their colorful costumes— huge aprons 1 fluttering laces 7 elaborate headdresses— they offer an enchanting spectaclo to the traveler though apparently unaware that their garb has the glamour of a medieval' i ki'l V3 - - patntmg ' The training of nursemaids is the 4 ' ifj 0 § f V 7 Jig: s fcpreewajd’s main professional concern flowbero elso In Germany arc young girls so scrupulously ana finely edu- cated for this important task “Sie 1st eine Spreewaldin" metropolitan proudly explain to while little Hans is being neighbors wheeled down the path in his perambulator by a quiet bright-face- d attendant who in her extreme youth was just as fond of “etollen” as he These titantiq cakes are very rich made of powdered sugar nuts raisins citrons and eggs and baked Into a flat double pointed loaf Copjrrlsht Ua UtraUiiul ritur 8vrlc ma-tro- n A Grm“ Gir With Her Titanic “Stollen” So Big It Couldn’t Be Consumed Over the Holiday pVi ‘Cf A‘i : ' ns whether morality native the tribes of darkest Africa or among the A ultra-fashionab- le on j dly Im Orwl BrlUU E!liU Imnil ' among SEDUCTIVE SIXTIES Certoon Only Slightly E xaggeraled of the Hoopskirt Styles Prevalent from 1865 to 1867 Such Modes May Recur a a 1932 Manifestation— But Prof Marston Thinks Thia Improbable Adam made both of them "feel ashamed of their nakedness” So they Sicked a few fig leaves and “covered loins” ThaUs the way the Bible tells it According to the version in other ancient literatures Eve became so fascinating to Adam that she dressed for But the idea behind it all is much the same in all versions of the story What does it mean? If we take the story as a psychological allegory it means thia Eve the eternal woman suddenly became conscious tbat her beauty gave her almost complete power over her husband She could use this power In twq waysi For Adam’s own good or for her own selfish pleasure This was “the knowledge of good end' evil” good if woman’s sea power were used altru- istically evil if t were used selfishly Eve was tempted used her power selfishly and thus imparted the same knowledge of good and OYil to Adam ' The man hitherto had not realized that such contracts could be enjoyed except for the benefit of the loved one Now he knew that he too cOuld utilize his natural love relationship to Eve as a mere selfish amusement Both of them began using their relationship In this destructive way Both of them felt instinctively that they were doing wrong This is the meaning of their Note that the feeling of “shame” “shamo” was not caused by the experience of love itself but rather by their twinges of conscience at using love wrongly So they put on clothes of a sort in an attempt to shield their sin from each other though the Bible relates that they could not hide it from God The parallels In modern life are obvious No one likes to be reminded of a mistake not to mention a serious wrongdoing A murderer shrinks from looking at tho m with which he has slain his wife To him it baa become a symbol of wickedness and must therefore be concealed How does tho Biblical account of the orifia of clothing check up with scientific finding? (laveieck Ellis and 'ether authorities oa tho psychology it hevo pointed out that among primitivo people morality seems to bo found in exactly inverse proportion to clothing That ta to say primitive pooplos who wur nothing aro highly moral ao far aa ro lationships between the sexes are con corned They regard love': affair a sacred pure and aa natural aa breathing Mate are almost invariably faithful to on another and promiscuity is practically unheard of Among theso peopla there stems to be no natural impulse to cover the body No “shamo” la felt In appearing nude before other because there I no guilty feeling On 'the other hand' savage tribes whoso relationships are most promiscuous and whoso sex morality Is at its lowest ebb if® correspondinIy opposedt to nudity In some of there tribes women take almost aa much care to conceal their bodies as did the highly immoral women of the French court during its most decadent period The misuse of love for ulterior of sensual amusement money-gettin-“purposes g self-protecti- Takes Her One Year to Eat Her Christmas Cake - V vy 'A !' - V ff- bly accompanied by increased covering up of the human body especially woma n that of Many famous scientists assert that clothes represent a confession of im- ne neck-bendin- f A A 4 -- two-oun- A v-- Ftnrit Hurtt Distinguished of NoTfllut Wha in Defending Short Shirt Declared: f‘The Left feminine neckbending to the yoke of each new season fashions goes on — and TODAY 1 1S26— Mi the in 192 in of Modt Hwrt Right it Attipi sets rode low on the Ferris wheel of By PBOF WM M MARSTOIV fashion The female limb became a (Profetior of Psychology at Columbia leg silk stocking business an and the li nivttrtity f Author of Emotions industry” V o Normal People etc) And now Miss Hurst scornfully exANNIE HURST that eloquent: claims after this period of sane and and persuasive writer of fiction comfortable dressing we are beginhas turned crusader In a recent ning to see “the ridiculous spectacle of millions of women about to climb article published in the New Republic Miss Hurst attacks ‘‘the oligarchy Of" back into corsets trains long gloves and coiffures” industry” which is foisting upon the But are we? Marion Cylde McCar-ro-ll Nvomen of this country that abominawriting in the New York Evening tion of old the long skirt Vigorously Post thinks not She tells us that does this famous woman leader call “on all sides one hears women emupon every woman with any modernism phatically declaring that they have no or independence in her soul to take up intention whatever of adopting the the banner and refuse to wear those Acskirt for general purposes awkward and unhealthy relics of 'the long a woman is heard to cordingly many Victorian age which make her unlovely say that sho has gonevhome from an and uncomfortable for the sole beneearnest shopping tour empty-hande- d fit of ‘‘a few selfish dressmakers” after hunting in vain from shop to shop ”The bleating or more aptly speak--m-g ' for a frock she was willing to' wear” the braying acquiescence of And many a business man who tells his women to fashion” observes Miss' wife that it 13 very sensible for her Hurst “is the most dependable and to wear ankle-lengt- h skirts remarks constant factor with which the interwith delight to his men friends that national industry of dressing them has “Not a girl in the office has lengthened to deal Crops may fail silkworms her skirts a single inchl” Wiv besuffer blight weavers may strike ware the advice of husband even tariffs may hamper but the mass-ges- -' when they bring gifts— of long skirts 1 ture of feminine g to the Now what's behind it all? What yoke of each new season’s fashion are the motives the emotions which goes on” cause women to wear clothes in the Miss Hurst is a Jkeen psychologist first place and what emotions make She is right in asserting “The fashiona some women want to wear short of tho Utt ten yeara not' only eatabliah skirts and what motives cause others the moat radical departure in the to desire long ones? There is of clothing aince women firat ably nothing more important toprobthe donned clothing hut they eloquently feminine mind than clothes But tho her new psychological repreaent psychology of women’s clothes is little sociological economic and political understood by the women themselves tatua A peep into the clothes closet The dressmakers understand it and turn their knowledge to their own fiof Queen Victoria might have proved nancial advantage aided by the hypo by negation that she did not golf drive car go to business let her critical of past waistline alone or wear turies un The clothes chronicle of derthings Let us begin with the story of Adam 1920-2- 9 tell3 a different story Cor and Eve in the Garden of Eden or the seeking of political power or other selfish ends eemi to be invaria- tr" y -- V N M 1S85 7 Aj lit' s Vi Photographed la of a Solemn Bridal Csuplt’ Nete the Feminine WkUiliae end Hips v i®v‘4f ! VWi- i® aU ! - ‘ u visit sT-- I Vi r s r 4 A - ? 1 I V W A i i - - t r L V- 1 'tT 'll ' i i V hr fVV- - © Tracing the Modesty Complex Back to Adam and Eve With an Analysis o the Style Czars Tyranny Over the Impressionable Women r-- : so- -' riety ladies of some European capital “Evil-minenners” d really consists of thinking that the other fellow is evil or would like to be evil If he dared - An person in lookin' at a woman believes that she woulv like to misuse her feminine power if she could for her own gelfish pleasures The mors ciptheg a woman wears the mof for she some feeling abput her own body Iq short clotheg pro an Invitation :to people to think evil thoughts about women What beautiful pagan woman of ancient Cy frougi:£l evil thought! in the meg ®f her she ran or wam in all the natural freedom of complete nudity? She felt up reason for concealing her Men recognized her purity body - or mind as evidenced by her freedom of body and f git no desire to transgress her wdl Many styles of clothing seem deliberately designed to emphasize n parts of the body while con cealjng them from view The bustle so popular during part of the last century is an example The tightly corseted figure represents an exaggeration of the female form in Elbow-lengt- h Several particulars kid gloves with evening dress are designed to emphasize the whiteness and bareness of the lady’s upper arms and freely exposed shoulders and back Black s on the face or shoulde represent the same idea Pantalettes which all Pr°per” young ladies were compelled to wear during part of the Victorian age called constant attention to girls’ legs by suggesting a social evil-mind- ed Snkinrt1 tvil-mind- evilffi-inle(i'In- n ed ! 1'’ W '! ’ ’vW y A- cer-tai- IQ jQ - beauty-patche- necessity for concealing them The heavy cloak and veil that Oriental harem women were always compelled to wear in public similarly enhanced by suggestion the charms of body features thus carefully concealed So far we have considered the moral” reasons for clothes There are other reasons whifh mustnot be neglected The Eskimos instance would probably wear for clothes regardless of any feelings of shame or modesty The climate compels it At the other extreme inhabitants of the South Sea Islands could not wear furs corsets long skirts or heavy cloaks no matter how badly they desired to conceal their bodies It is too hot down" w there Some reasons ef this type count heavily against the wearing ef Long skirt and corset by modern American girls Golfing tennis swimming basket- and even getting onto A fubway train or street car during the rush hour are tremendously facilitated bchort ikirts and scanty underthings do net hamper bodily movement Another set of psychological causes which play a part In regulating female clothes entirely apart from the wLhes or needs of the women themselves are the money-makin- g desires of clothes manufacturers Women fcldora realize that the Parisian and other foreign de-signers whose dictate they sre calledT upon to follow blindly care nothing’ at all for the attractiveness op usefulness of the styles they initiate It is a question of money If skirt solely have been "short for several years women can be compelled to buy millions of dellara worth ef new clothes by st-field-hock- ty UP AND DOWN Accurately Documented Sketch f the Fluctuating Tendencies in Women’ Fashions Throughout the Years as Evld en ced by Changing Skirt and Waistlines tin a new fashion of Joe skirts If skirts have been Jong and etraight women may be made to buy new costumes by decreeing short full skirts The manufacturers of silk stockings for example increased the value their output some eighty-oi- x million of dollars between J95 and 1523 because women showed their legs mere ana more freely In 1913 only ninety-tw- o mills made silk hosiery n 1S2S 235 mills were going full blast Women wore 22 259009 dozen pairs-osloes- ings last year as egafns'i 0323984 dozen pairs in 1919 All thia was due to the abort skirt It is psychologically true that women aro more submissive than men Bot while women naturally submission they Lo not enjoy eajey being exploited ©r bests st © bargain tey batter than men do fm fact is apt to be mere revengeful than man cots sh dicovre that she baa beta cheated Therefore it is piycko- afe t© predict that wemea Ioiclly will net surrsadsr th ebvisuf besutie and benefit of the short ykir ii ’- tt f vmt ebedieac© t© th© cUthiog jaerchsats ©emmand ef the |