| Show r t I AT A LA PAZ DE AYACUCHO a Bo In to a s South A American I Capital I Ir r WU rm Correspondence e eI Qa Fan 1111 Bolivia July In h n I I f proverb which says Bays s midi y la ventana No o eg ea buena en la Ia mantana that music honey hon y and ana an stand eland ling Ing to the tho window aru Indulgences no not good lOad for tor the early part of at tho day Not the injunction lot us ua step atop but on our hotel balcony which over Oer overlook looks look the central plaza of ot this thin queer oldtown old oia oldtown town to tho he street t scenes and morning lIun lne The City Olty of at POlice Peace ng B at the tho 1 stupendous atul en lou mountains away to the tho horizon on on n tilde one cease to wonder nt Its KB tr title remembering remembering that when t explore a these v burron burren n heights In hi search of ot gold am and Unconquered Indians Indian and found this peen ron and cup hollow they We vero Hla lad l to teat rest here her awhile from their W This l J led d to the Moment Ot of ft n t post poat which h Araw Into a city I and wid In 1 1618 Dun Don Alonzo do who to have had n a 1 in streak ot of poetry m In n his sordid soul christened It Nuestro Senora Oe do la Ia I I a Lady of ot the Peace TAe namo nano was changed about 70 years yearn aru Just niter after the decisive battle battee of ot Ayacucho bl by means of ot which Bolivia Rind her from Spain the tho final of ot peace penco being celebrated ed hereto here to La Paz Pax de Ayacucho DAMP AND ND COLD AS TOMBS TOMUS TO mS And certainly t c tho the very spirit of ot peace or r rather of ot idleness seems se brooding ct over r tho a no Because of ot tho the great elev more moro than feet teet above rca Ilea ca lovel everybody moves mOes about slow lov If ly WIlD who moves mO es at all for tor that distress Ing complaint known na or of ot breathing Is aura uro to follow active exercise Away up here winter r raM and aM summer are much alike because lain Walla completely all sheltered by moun from E walls from all tho the winds that ha blow the air has hall In It the tiro chill chilI of ot th the nearby Andean An an snow meow needs field Out of at doors in tho the middle of at the day It Is ii tolerably corn corne e but trot the houses not ono one of at has haj any eort of at apparatus for tor ng Urpo el are damp cad and cold colda a ae eo so many tombs except In rooms which Me nee thoroughly penetrated by the tho midday ml day nio JUo Imagine ft n civilized community where rater Irene freezes nearly every uvelT night In fn tho the Sear tal depending 1 solely upon the sun fur far especially s en when In III this s altitude rt arb that si orb Is III wore more Inconstant than tho Moan Is 18 said laid to lo be hp b a sometimes refusing to show Ws its face for tor days together Summer clothes arc aru never ner required to in Ln La Paz Pax PA Everybody wears ears his over oer overeat cent eat at nt nil all seasons and needs It much more In doors than out Strong Strange to say the uncomfortable people shivering around th hoarse hoUS In shawls and furs tilts late have an nn unconquerable prejudice against again t artificial heat hoot and believe bellevo that thatto thatto to 10 kLoep D a Arv In a II stove or grate would total destruction to health An AD ADAmo I i American Amo gentleman residing hero loaned us UI a contrivance for tor burning e to the Uie deadly chill chillIn chillin tin In our oar groat wax wan the tho con ron In the tho hotel when it was dis discovered dl covered Not only were vero we wa e repeatedly lly that our own on lives 11 tes worn wern seriously serious lr tr endangered thereby but that of ot tho the household how as all well and when Whon In grippe ewe Lune along wong a II little later and reaped ruf Ita U harvest under thIs root roof as WI here we we weN cro ly n by dark hints thrown out to tho the eff effect ot t that an all tho the sickness amt ami death In the tile town was as directly traceable to that same oil stove stave so SOn n FEATURES FEATURE J But Dut there are oro compensations every everywhere where wham for tor most of ot tho the IlL IRe of ot life and andone ono one an nn eye to tho the picturesque may find thorn them oven In La Lo Pits Pat Let Us look Unto the hills hili with tho the Psalmist Just bow how wonderful with of ot light and shadow varying from darkest pur purple purple plc to palest gray Directly opposite our window the tho tant mant mountain of ot the tha Andes looms up like a sheeted ghost white at as a unsullied snow anaw can enn make mako It while on very ocr hand stretching far tar an nil the th eye eyO can reach are lines of ot mountains rising tier above tier to the tha on tho the sunny slUm foothills amethyst t and brown be beyond beyond yond them and th distant heights and n 1 misty mInty misty blue blue In front of or 1 Rim nl and looking colso oleo beside Its It II snowy snoW hack back background ground but In reality moro more than 40 10 relies miles s this side edo of ot It rl 19 tho the dark and nan blIed tower of ofa t n a 1 city sanctuary and nearer Marer yet ot front trant frontIng 1 Ing lag us on tho other side of oC tho plaza Is the sky blue with dark Clark red ret doors and pillars anti and tall white tower with a n clock In It which was wall formerly a church but now stuck all nil over with circus and Ind lottery placards Is used by bythe I Ithe bythe the Bolivian congress for tor Its sessions eR On ono one side eldo of ot It a long structure stretches to the tha corner with whir witha a brood broad strip of ot pda green painted across the th front In which ars In black letters the de do Tan rat Faris while on the other hand n a two story building with arches nr above abo and be below below below low all pale gre green freen n completes that side Ide of ot tho the square Separated by a n narrow street from the emerald hued arches aforesaid rises the presidents I three storied tho the lower lowerr story of ot hewn h wn stone atone left lett in Its Us natural color tho the up rii t per part art painted pulp palo blue Its Ito windows hove have neither outer nor nOlO inner hoer shutters but each U is I guarded by an on Iron roll rail hal bal balcony cony con soldiers are aro loll 1011 tag ing all day before Its entrance and above them floats tho the gorgeous ling Hag of ot equal stripes red yellow yel yellow el ellow low and green grcen with this tho es eR escutcheon i cutcheon stamped In the tho middle ml There fliers hero are tow few ow hours In the tho 21 when some mil military company compan Is I s not parading or bands playing before tho the presidents rasa case whenever the tho national anthem Is III rather Jerky tune it seems to mo me without much heart In It Ite wo we e notice that most men tako off art their tints hats There Titers have hao been tunes times In tho the history of oC th the tho country countr not so long ago ngo when to lo have havo neglected this out outward outward outward ward shoeing Ing of patriotism would have been dangerous Flanking tho the Imposing ing log executive mansion lon and ami Completing the tho right hand side Hide of ot tho the Is a II hel structure built of at polish od cd blocks of ot white stone with beautifully I fully tully carved pillars and window caps cops Ho long ago ngo was waR this immerse immense enter enterprise prise e begun b that Its Ito original purpose to have bc ben been n forgotten and grass grassIs Is la now growing out of ot tho the roofless walls Though nt ot least leant a n quarter of at a n million mullion dollars must have havo been tJ cn already spent upon It the work has been en entirely abandoned for Cor ninny many years a GAUDY HOTELS Across Acro the plaza facing the palace stands the tho Hotel Central pale pink above Ht below with i heavy henvy black trimmings and tho tiro name nomo i of ot the proprietor sprawled clear cleur across I the tho front In bright blue letters Next i to It Is a n restaurant In do green and lavender While Its adjoining neigh neighbor neighbor bor bur Is IR all 1111 gray Klay and white a salon Balon do dedicated to the historic twins Romulo and Our side of ot the square Is occupied by another hotel kept by a bustling French Krench widow it IL arow row of ot shops at one ono and ond and at tho Iho other a n magnificent atone casa through whose whoso open door one ono may sometimes s catch glimpses of ot alabaster staircases fountains and statues It was erected many years cars ngo ago by a n viceroy foy of ot Spain for tor the beautiful woman who possessed his heart henrt but did IUd not wear a a wedding ring We may remark en passant that Just back of ot us on a n t larell 1 street Is 18 another hotel misnamed miens led Americano wherein the traveler equally bad accommodation I TUB TIlE PRINCIPAL FEATURE I This Thill Plaza Mayor MIlor of at La I Paz like I that of ot other cities I I Is Its 1111 principal feature for Cor which all nil things radiate Its entire surface Is III paved with small stones atones set act In a II regular pattern of et di diagonal diagonal diagonal bars c an n ore are tho the streets Immedi Immediately surrounding It the tho figures ren rendered rendered rendered dered more pronounced by alternating black and white stones atones the former brought from an In Island In Lake Till TRl gaga caca Bows Hows of ot little trees tree most of ot them dead or languish between the stones Ionell and the whole plaza Is le sur surrounded surrounded surrounded rounded by a 0 high adobe wall avail The central fountain 1 Is III really worth looking ats U a lofty affair of ot alabaster and mar lUar marle marble ble le A circular basin very ver large and elaborately carved Is filled tilled with water to 10 o the tho brim and reached by a n flight of at marble steps extending all around In Inho Inthe Inthe the ho middle of this basin four Cour hug big bl dol 1101 standing on their heads sup support support port lort n a huge alabaster shell chell this shell Is is also alio tilled filled with water and contains smaller mailer dolphins In similar attitude upholding another Mother shell This Title also contains still a till smaller dolphins upholding a 11 third shell and andIn andin In n tho the latter stands a n tall and slender female rude nude trident In hand mud The whole Is enclosed by an nn Iron fence tence with large square pillars nt at rca rell liar ular intervals each tach pillar topped by a 0 marble which Is slowly vomit tag Ing ng water In a most moat allek lI manner COt tor or the accommodation of ot people who are aro continually coming to 10 drink or to fill their jars Jar Here comes cornea three cavalrymen dashing poll pell moll mell up un the street all In scarlet even een to their caps cap ca and capes each carrying over his shoulder houlder tho lire unfurled flap flag of et Bolivia Behind them at a II mont mars leisurely pace e erl rides rl es the tho baker on his ek little don donkey donkey key kc with ft II huge hamper hung on eith either er tide Ox hide hampers are too com corn common common cornman mon man In this country to attract attend atten attention tion but these are unique their square box lox like framework covered with tho the skin of ot a n perfectly p white cow put on JI lr outward Each hamper Is filled with small crust crusty ty loaves and every ono cnn of ot them thorn would servo serve well ell as a cannon connon cannonball cannonball ball boll In case of ot emergency On top of ot tho uncovered bread the baker carries hi his hIli hat In one ono of ot the thee boxes boies and his red calico o handkerchief and Ind purse In the other while white his boots and ana breeches dangle over both LO LOl POOR RED BED MAN MANA A group of ot Indians from tram over the tha sierras have hwe Just come como to town with their troupe of ot llamas and fen seated n led themselves them themselves selves to rest rent on the stones of ot the tha street with their weary backs bocks against the plaza plata wall willi Ioor Poor thing More than dirty dirt frowzy utter utterly utterly ly h hopeless of ot anything better In this world nobody knows how many miles those bare feet teet have trotted Most of ot the tha llamas are re laden with from i tho the upper Andes An which Is 19 In great do de mand man at tho saloons and restaurants The fie Ico iee lit in tied up In blankets and ul cl though hough Is B nothing between the tho chilly bundle und and the tho back of ot the ant mal but ft a 1 folded tol lod sheep skin we notice that tha t they seem Ileum more uncomfortable without tho the Accustomed burden burdon than with It Indians abound this morning It If possible In greater number and var nr lety of ot costume Ot than usual and every ono Is driving a 1 heavily laden ladell mule or llama or carries a n load on his or her own back There Thelo goes gods one ono staggering under tour four long lOll planks another has a apo po pile pf of well wee tilled Imell sacks socks on mr his back another trots trot off oft with a n big trunk that tha Weighs him nearly to the ground and hero thoro goes o woman I In total eclipse sc so 80 soto to speak peak nothing but her bare baro fe rOt feet t nn and ankles ankle being visible beneath tho the bundle of ot alfalfa heaped upon her hor head henU A t STRIKING CONTRAST CO In strong contrast to the tho patient am and hardworking Indians who are 1110 imposed ell upon by everybody od and In every are the or holt a elites dims nearly ns as numerous but very cr different In manner mid and appearance being noisy savoy saucy Brille and Independent by hy no means a n desirable class clans of ot citizens citizen Of ot course CaUls there era are notable exceptions eXl but OH as a anJo they lie Ill cheat rhent Meal lell like magpies and tu d can con never be he depended upon to ear car ar rj 1 out a bargain Some Hume of ot the women are aro very ver handsome while young In 1 a course coarse way but most of ot them ere thor titer thoroughly bad They hey arc aro R ri generally short In stature Inclined In to stoutness with bold black nye eyes perfect tooth teeth e ih and heavy heM lair hair All are ly fond of at bright colors colora and possess the tit th secret of or dyeing them Their Ther dress dree is to Here 1110 comes cornell a u female Chain who Is 18 a 1 fair tall sample out for tor n pRO o or promenade She Bho wears such Ruch a n I number of ot skirls as asto asto asto to give them a bell shaped ped outline as though worn over a hoop The Tho outer ono one Is canton flannel l made wooly silo side out a II gorgeous v of ot Indescribable tint between salmon salmon and orange Be lie It the white lao lace of ot the tho next skirt hangs down about an on eighth of ot n a nyard yard ard All the skirts starched no so stiffly that they rattle are alt made short enough to show u II few Cew Inches of ot bare brown brou n leg she nhe wears no hose above the tops of ot her white while kid kill boots She always wears two shawls never by b any chance whatever the weather appear appearIng Ing log In only one Tho Tito lower shawl a n delicate rose is put on somehow so 80 that the tho point comes caines directly In front like an nn apron extending nearly n to 0 tho the hem of ot her skirt while the tho outer one aile a royal purple with green freen flowers In the border has the point behind and andIs andis Is fastened together at the tho bosom with witha a n cluster r of ot sliver silver pine hitched to together toRether gether Rether by a n silver sliver chain Her coarse conrao black hair hangs hanKs down her back In braids tied together at the ends with white strings Her tier enormously ly long earrings reaching r utmost almost II most to her derp are set s t with Imitation pearls I and andon andon on her head heal Is le Jauntily perched n white strap strow lint of ot the tho sailor shape much too small with n a L blue blu ribbon around It FANNIE B R WARD WAnD |
