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Show 10 It's also a nostalgic look back to the 1960s, with reams of beautiful folklore prints from the likes of O I Q " J ITTT 7 Tl Thursday pv Aug 2' 1990 getis Inspiration from many Freimelhi If asfooon By SUZY PATTERSON AP Fashiou Writer PARIS (AP) - Inspiration from the bedfoom, the ski slopes and the hunt ball is sparking the French fashion scene for next fall. H Yves Saint Laurent and Ungaro. What was shown on the Paris runways is not necessarily what will appear on the racks of your friendly local store, even if you're in the thick of Manhattan or ranging around Malibu Beach. But smart shoppers keep in mind the novelties they've seen as inspiration from this fashion capital. Sports are currently playing big in the fashion field, as designers like Gianfranco Ferre of Dior look to the hot colors of race-courjockeys' silks. Karl Lagerfeld is current and past master of the fitted long jacket or redingote shortie coat se sources over coltish long legs both for Chanel and under his own label. Ferre, too, likes these sleek redingote coats, often giving them an Edwardian dash of elegance for Dior with top hats and organza bows at the neck. But the main sports inspirations are coming from the ski slopes and Tour de France bicycle race, with drawstring parkas and skin-tigshiny cycling shorts. Shown for next winter, the shiny stretch biking gear is already a big hit on Paris streets this summer, usually worn by the under-2- 5 set. Older Frenchwomen, even though in top form, usually have the good sense to dress rather more conservatively than their ht daughters and granddaughters, even though they do aim to be elegant and sexy. The current active sporting look adapted to street wear for the young comes out in short tights with long pantyhose, or long stirrup stretch pants. And jackets are They may be on the puffy taffeta side, as shown by ready-to-wedesigners like Jean-Charlde Castelbajac, or vers, sions of hooded, drawstring ar t) es wind-breaker- seen throughout all French collections these days. At Chanel, designer Karl Lagerfeld likes to mix up the wear and very rich fabrics and details. His tiny minis and simply legs (alone) encased in tights with their important toppers make for a youthful winter line. Chanel-lover- s, however, are also looking to the new cruise line shown for next winter here: it is very abbreviated, but full of excellent details, like beautifully cut short jackets, round Chanel-log- o ski-slo- d, buttons matching the outfits, pearl chokers with beads larger cherries and chain-circle- d earrings bigger than the ear itself. And of course, the tight shorts, or currently fashionable pedal pushers, are given the Chanel fillip of big buttons up the side. From the bedroom come some of the late-da- y ideas for next fall and winter. Touches of satin and lace give discreet sexy touches to than Brilliant folkloric prints are influencing leading French designers. This design from Yves Saint Laurent's line features a fitted jacket matched to a flounced skirt. Velvet boots and felt hat finish the look. fall-wint- er ready-to-we- ar button-pea- rl luxury or v r ready-to-wea- r. Hanae Mori, the most Parisian of Japanese designers, even brought out a line of dance-ha- ll merry widow styles, gay enough for a Toulouse-Lautre- c poster. Another influence for next winter is the enthusiastic embrace of folklore, especially by leading designers like Ungaro, Saint Laurent and Christian Lacroix. The creative Lacroix never left the folklore camp: he always shows a group of prints and silks inspired by his colorful Provence home country and rich fabrics from Byzantine and Far Eastern origin. Paris is now unveiling clothes even between the big year-roungroup shows. Recent showings included a quiet comeback from the house of Rochas, which had kept a very low profile, with perfume and accessories only, after the death of Marcel Rochas in d, AP Laserphotos d outfits The sports cachet has arrived on Paris fashion runways, as shown in these collections: silk stripe or plain riding shirts, worn with beige from Christian Dior's silk stoles. jodhpurs, riding boots and topped with matching jockey-inspire- fall-wint- er or 1955. They hired an Irishman named Peter O'Brien, who worked with Marc Bohan at Dior and at Chloe, to refurbish the house image and bring out clothes with personality. His clothes for next winter are an exercise in subtility, in the d category. Details are e style in the full and fitted gored long skirts, satin, lace and soft cashmere fabrics. "This is definitely understated chic," says O'Brien, who believes in autumnal colors to match the ladylike styles: deep slate gray, mustard,, burgundy, pine or brick and autumn-lea- f red. Long and easy pants and very full skirts as shown for Rochas may be beacons for what's to come in the next generation of fashion. As Paris has come through the sharp, tailored looks, the sexy minx styles and the return to 1960s minis, it still seems floundering in what's due for the 1990s. Will the next decade of fashion be kinder and gentler to women? As more styles, fabrics and colors are being shown every season in the rush to be commercially successful, it seems that women are freer than ever to choose gentle or tough chic. high-price- . haute-coutur- Echoing the era of Toulouse-LautreHanae Mori has designed a quintessentially 'JYench evening outfit. c, f3 mm lodiet leant sizes 313, 61 8 Get your whole family into famous Rsme jeans! v fin ruasi I ii m , m-ic- ..ii lean 6 shm and regular $24 VF $12 $34 VF$17 m4 "iw Boy ieotw Effis mCm- sugg. ret. VF$U - manufacturers! So you save V2. Every day! Come in to VF Factory Outlet today and see what we're not talking about. 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