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Show cxazr rXC 'DA i uAO bottom. The di faculty Eantaloons at the often with the man who makes up the garment. He fails to get the Inside and outside seams even. Careful basting will avoid It. This sort of a leg is usually somewhat bowed, and It requires a straight Inside seam. Pantaloons are not now cut with any spring." to They fall perfectlya strike the shoe at straight down, above where the lacing begins. point just Never choose a cloth that will stretch for pantaloons. Avoid what are called basket goods. After you have chosen your: pattern ask the ontter whether it will make up well. Try to get the truth out of him if yon think there is any In him; and, if he inspires confidence,. abide by his judgment, for there's a great deal in selecting proper cloth if you wish g pantaloons. of the shoulderj don't you believe him. Tell him that! the shoulder Is "too la the technical term, Itratght."thatThat the Use of the gorge, or curve for the neck, is not deflected sufThai throws the shoulder i U ilzU aj Kick That Will In ficiently. wrong place. That is the point Into theinla coat. My friend, the critical spot press Your) Tailor. cutter, told me that more study had been bestowed upon this spot than upon any other, bat that the information obtained was notf yet fully satisfactory. However, in th4 caseT have cited, the ::::e plates shdwisg THE DETAILS. thing to do is to cut a little off at the ! gorge. This will not affect the position of the collar as fou might think. That' is regulated by (the back piece. If the first alteration in your coat doesn't pror Points for the Man: Whose Cloth duce the desired effect, find out whether Do Not Fit II jm Showing Where has J attacked the"r shoulder the tailor ' the Trouble May lilei and How It point. " , ' xi Should He Itemed led. I have had tailors tell me that the " break " at th4 shoulder could not be remedied. That is nonsense. You will noi get that stofy while the tailor Is try .t JtHe jW. Johnson.1 ing to get an order. Make him fix it till you are sure that the coat presses equally 1891. Nr Yok, ;Dec, 1, Of a hundred taeniwtio are able t OFlGCOOTlSlllOD. 1 I i ; .. tf Albert Edward Ttbbeix. IN IIAItI ! I j j bow-legge- s. seven-eighth- ' Efig-land- iKDlKQal -- --, -- j Ma-ehine- ry, j , ; 5 d, nta f ! rtt of . - W. E. SMEDLEY .& CO FOtTR COAT8 THAT DO NOT fit well. But the pantaloons- - FIT. iheres oh, the rub. Where i the genius who shall rise up and tell ushow to prevent bagging at the knee? I It may be ameliorated, but that is ajl. When it is excessive, the fault is not in the cut at the knee, but in what a tailor would call the length ot the stride. This means the extra cloth on the back from the knee un. which enables Ithe les to be extended or bent without difficulty.; The necessity for this extra cloth prevents the existence of a perfect pair of, pantaloons. There must always be too much fullness at a point back of the thigh, to look Well when the wearer pf the pantaloons is .But this necessity standing t erect. should not be made to 'excuse wrinkles all the way down the back' of the leg. There may be plenty of cloth to prevent excessive baggirig at the knee, and it may be so disposed, as to conceal - its su. perfluity. The man with J broad hips should make his tailor allow for that unusual "beam," but neverjlet him run the fullness all the way down to the knee. 'This results In those wrinkles at the sides from the knee up, which are so distressing to a man who Is sensitive about his dress. Don't let any tailor excuse such a cut; he is sticking to bis system, and neglecting the special needs of the customer. One of the most common defects in pantaloons Is the fail are to fit close to the leg on the outside, between the knee and ankle. A man with a large calf, placed too far out, will be lucky if his trousers do not hang, too far away from I have had it marked his ankle. But there is no need of it. If he tolls you that he The cutter can easily put suT cicnt fulli out v illi an iron, or ness into 'the d.$Un to allow the lf cr the top plenty of roora, and ti.i narrow the i.i tha tp-i:- Uxottl, . his assistance. A good many genuine Poole coats are faltered in New York. Some English tailors have agents in this country who tak measures of Anglo- maniaos and send the orders to the other side. The clothing which results from this process Is not calculated to lull those feelings of hostility which have survived fr0m the Revolutionary war. I have written At some length about coats. Thero is nothing to say of vests except that thoy jare cut rather short now. Any tailor; should make a vest I ' : - .., ""!- " inore American. - , (C-flBLDRElf- ll Fire Insurance Rgensu. Tlje Iur3eet eua.3 Stroneat of acsiin et. 1 Are always liable to sudden and severe colds, to croup, sore throat, long fever etc. Remedies, to be effective, must be admin istered without delay. Nothing Is better adapted for such, emergencies than Ayer's Clerry Peetoral. It soothes the inflamed, membrane, promotes expectoration, relieves coughing, and induces sleep. The prompt use of this medicine has saved Innumerable lives, both ef young and old. " One of my children had eroup. The case was attended by our physician, and was supposed to be well under control. One night I was startled by the child's hard breathing, and en going to it found It ' j t r CD -- j - 1 HARDWARE Stel sAir lake arm-hol- J ) ' GO O IN8URANCE rs fl-o- t 4 CLOAKS (JEQ M. SCOTT j I PER CENT OFF 1- HOLIDAY -- " our new and elegant store, Underwear, Art Materials and Notions'. i hs LUCK. Kid Gloves, Hosiery, Lace Embroideries, cept either. an If you want English shoulder, it is ten to one that your tailor will not know! how to give it to you. This is a sloping, wide shoulder with the seam at the; sleeve-hea- d fivcleighths of an inch further down the arm than in the American cut. lh the latter, the sleeve-hea- d e Is larger than the by one and inches for an average man. The difference In the English s eoat is only about of an inch. This makes a shoulder which, I am bound to say, Jdoes not look well on itf Is the real English anybody, butback of this coat should article. The be cut straightej than the American style, and, in general, it should not flt so well anywhere. The Englishman is better dressed than the American, but he does it in spite; of his tailor, not with five-eight- , Complete ill-fitti- d, Iaisooff, ONLY EXCLUSIVE j 1 d or narrow-chesteadmit the fact to ymirself, ail do what you can to the defeqta. luny excellent 'remedy ou articles physical development have been published in t(he last few years In the leading magazines, audi they will re- pay careful study, jtlavijig learned what type of inau you ai'e you will be able to seo What a lallor cin do foil you. Never attempt to repair! a dffeH artificially unless the art can be wholly concealed. Don't pad yourShqulder, unless you are absolutely certain .hat the most prying eye will fall to dlsdover It. Then make up your Jmind that you will never accept a suit of clothes that doesn't fit you; arid stltikito it. You will thus do a service not only to yourself, but to mankind. If there Is a real 'defect in a garment do not let any knight of the shears bluff or bully or cajole you into paying for jt. Let him understand your position tit the start, and .there will be nl trouble. The following points concerning some ot the most common aud, mjst annoying of misfits, with suggestions? of the remedies, aro derlvedj froiu Conversations jwltli one of the most skUlfUl cutters in from jojir jown painful jthis city, and Whelii you aro being 'experience: measured for a sull of clothes, assume a natural position. Do iotj attempt to conceal any of tho pcceutrHltios of your anjid4a that your figure. If you Ishavin shoulder liwer than your left, right tliem up by your posdon't try to even ar-don't If you ture. a sentipress your knees togother )ou't Inflate ment of false sliame. your chest to the point qf explosion be cause yon like to hear a Herculean measure called out to thh clerk. Tell the cutter ilearly ahd' concisely the effects which you fjdesire, and seo that he makes memoranda. If he puts on what Dr. Holmes cu'fls jthe ginger-brea- d rabbit ex pjcessiqn.'i signifying a total iacK 01 inirwsL jin. jiua suuject,. you may be sure that he intends to cut the cloth entirety py system. In that case you have about one chance In a thousand of bfclng fitted. Lt the cutter understand that you wintl the clothes for some mythical 4verajto man If you have had trouble hi getting jsuited here t tofore, describe It. After the cuttef hasj dojne his work there comes the man who makes up the garments suit, and he frey,uently ruitis that have been properly csut. That iswhy two suits made of the same in e asure are often so different. One of them has been given to an inferior workman. In such a case let the proprietor of the shop understand that ypu 'know what the trouble is aud that the suit which falls to please must.be brought up to the grade of the other or jroii would refuse to take It. Now suppose thatj you are trying on the suit, and exauiinlng it critically. We will begin withj the jcoat. Be sure that you are fully la tocanIt. f the tailor make It look pulls It Into place he all right for a few minutes, or as long as you keep still; but unfortunately you will no! always have the benefit of his So make yourself certain assistance. a$ near to your that the coat has coine as it will. body in every place Then look it over esrefnlly. If It "break" ever the shoulder, you dossp't rs in luck. Mostj coats do. In the common case you notice the r.io-s"Lreak" or wrinkle j Just forward of your collar bonej a tightness H ton buttOM:' a ninchinir :t ix front of the arm; and a tittle sur-at- h :3 ' just in front of the shoulder r.xanilne carefully for these de-- ! watch the tailor mark the he knows his business ...ti.;nIftha trouble where, pcr- rulln't suspect it in the Selpueitzer 9 WITH 33 . bow-legge- - NO 122 MAIN STREET, sma-u- t COAT. o, toot. m. ' j decitmijeti We are now open grasp of his business. Sometimes a coat draws along a line In the first plaije, young man, know from under the Arm to a point near the a your figure thoroujghly. Make careful back button on that side. This is caused and honest Investigation If you are knd the "fore part's" by a skirt, sho-ta little being A low collar, drawing away from the neck. Is caused ly a short back part; a collar that .wanfs to climb over your head when you sit down results from too much length in jthe back part. Some-time- s a three or four button cutaway looks fairly well Swlth only the top button fastened, but! as soon as the others are fastened It pushes up and wrinkles at the neck. Doh't let your tailor promise to fix this bfy moving the buttons, lie can't. The trouble is in the shoulder poiut, as usual. The shoulder 13 too crooked. That jjis, the curve of tho bends avf ay too sharply. "gorge" As to fitting around the waists, coats are not cut very cIose under the present style, liut if yod want yours to fit well In, don't let the tailor persuade you that skirts are a necessary accompaniment. No ihatter how narrow the waist or how broad the hips, there should be no wrinkling in the skirts. Always try a Icoat unbuttoned, no matter whether it is ever to be worn that way. Note your side view with the coata unbuttoned. If it hangs off, the back it is too short. If it hangs from the front so that the back shows a tendency to wrinkle against the body the frontTis too short. Do not be persuaded to ac dF ' A . - -- troTNTS THT, PRIJCTPA.T, ' ujxeu duiiDay moristtn-g- An Artist Who Was Dead Broke Tells of His Experience. "It would take me a long time to tell you all the experiences that I have had when I was flat broke," said the artist as he lighted a fresh cigar. "I remember one, though, that was particularly unpleasant. It was In New York, and I had been- broke for a month. I had a couple of rooms on the top floor of a big in building on Broadway, and one of them I used for a studio and the Forter for: a - sleeping-roott tune had not been smiling on me for a long time, and at the time of which I am speaking I.was almost as reduced in my wardrobe as I was in my finances. I had pawned all my clothes for food and room-ren- t, with the exception of the suit that I had on my back, and I had (Moore, Allen 5e Co.'s Old Stand,) but one hat and one pair of shoes. On the particular day I had been working all the morning, and had worked hard -3 ON ALL so that I would forget that I. had not I went had any breakfast, and that to bed the night before without going through the little formality of eating my supper, The day before I hadtaken a picture to; a man who wanted to look at it, and I was to go that afternoon and get a decision as to whether he would -buy it. 10 to look "About o'clock I happened of the window and saw that it was snowing and that the sidewalks were covered with slush to about the depth of two Inches. I knew that my shoes were badly dilapidated and that I had to "We Carry a Line of walk a couple. of miles to the house of the man whom I hoped would buy my picture. I had every confidence that he would buy it, and I knew that if I did not get there that afternoon. I was In a fair way to starve to death. I studied about half an hour and then I thought out a plan of action. I called the boy who worked round the buiild-- 1 ing and gave him my shoes. I toid him to take them to a shoe store ;and have them fixed, and then I hustled around the building and We are also prepared, to slaow an Elegant Line of; managed to borrow enough money to pay for them. This was 75 cents. The boy came back and told me that he had taken the shoes over to a store on Sixth avenue, about five blocks from my room, and that they would be ready at 4 o'clock that afternoon. I went to work again and tried to forget my longing for food. Half a dozen times I was tempted to go down and spend the 75 cents for a good meal, but as that would have left me without any shoes I pegged away harder at my canvas and waited fer 4 o'clock. Just as soon as it was time I went out to call the boy and then to my horror I found that he had gone home sick. There I was with no shoes and nobody to send after them, and the snow and slush three lncheadeep on the FIEb, M3TE AND ACOIDEIfT sidewalk. I was literally starving, too, I. had a very old pair of carpet-slippewith no heels, but I did not dare wear them and go out, for I knew that before I had gone half a block I would be Estatolisrieci 1871. chilled through, and besides it would not look very well for me to be seen 191 OCTTJni MAIN" STREET. orrr, Ba A. BOX 9ft. plodding along Broadway and Sixth ave nue in a pair of carpet-slipperI Iroq, lpte, rpja wasn't letting on to anybody that I was ....... Authorized you know. I did not know Agent for the following' Companies! strapped, MINERS' TOOLS, STCryE3,: TXTWAIE5, ETOL, Z7TCU what to do, but as every moment I was InsiTTflnnB. Assets. and giro the time for my hungrier getting , CeottSsh Qzzian and Kstionftl, of visit to the man who was going to buy $18,852,302 1 was my picture drawisg near, thrust j London Asstzysnee, 18,216,787 my feet Into the slippers and started Rwrtti British 4 -out. I never shall forget the MILL r 1431,458 I nearly agony of that walki IfovCbern, 19,724,995 froze both of my feet, and when I Hambof-Sremen, of Germany, . reached the store I was In a state of 5,000,000 total collapse. I called for the shoes,and -of iEtna, Hartford, 10,171,509 when the clerk brought them out he Belting. Paeking. Hosa, Maohlnists' Tools and Supplies, Wood and Iron -Union, of California, told me that the bill was 91, because they 1,300,000 Working" Machinery, Blacksmiths' and Foundry Tools and were so worn that they needed a lot of ex FLroiDan'B Fund, of CaUTarnia, Mill Furnishings, PuiloyB. Shafting, Ete., Steaua 2,450,000 tra fixing. I held out my 75 cents and St. of Brass GoodS) Valirefl, Eteam Fittings, Etc and Water Uinnesota, Paul, 1.713,904 fainted dead away. When I got around again I toid the clerk how it Orient, of Hartford, LOKNDB Tot 109.663 was and he let me have the shoes. I went up to the house of the man who Buffalo Scales jCalifornlsi Powdor Works, XXeroules and Biacta Iowf) was to buy my picture, and he bought Caps auwl Fiaae, McOASKELl.'S PATEWT CAR WHEELS Vevouum and Engine) CU, Jonn A Roobliag'e Bona dt Co.'s ktmml Wir , it and gave me a check in payment. Cylinder The banks were all closed, of course, 155 Main St, Salt Lake City; 24dl Washington ayc, Ogrlen. Rope, StockTialna Tba Pitd. Roeln and Lubricating rmy Wir'i and I was compelled to go all night and until 10 o'clock the next day before I got anything to eat. Then you can be lieve that I had a meal that, was and juicy and beautiful. I have large had some tough experiences, but that one was a little the worst of the lot." Hcchrstcr Democrat. L. O. THL!IiT-SII0TGUH3, RIFLES, REVOLVERS, AUnmimOU, FISH III Q TACKLE, 1 Lswi Teanii Salve. Arnte Backlen'i General SanbaU, Oymaasium ud SnpplUa, Western , rr tttzsaarr The Best Salve In the World for Cut. Bruines. SHcydea, Tnt, Basing Gloves, Xndiaa Claba, Dumb Balls, Tlyin.g Cards, Sores. Ulcer. Salt Rheum. Fever Sores. Tetter. Olassea, SuatliisT Boots and BTnmtiajr Cutlery, Zield Mid Opera Water-3froChilblains. Corns, and all Skin Chapped Hands, Boots; Agents for Thompwa Cletblaej, Piles, or no oarKruptlons. and nosltivehr cures And Machinery for the Systematic Reduction cf Ore Dn Pont Sporting' end ZHastlaa Powder. required.or It Is guaranteed to jrWe perfect satisby Taction, money refunded, .price Hi oents per FIrMbc e and Ilea Is tba Shcotlng. PnUUtiraTBATSB CATW? Sporting Amalgamation, Concentration, wrytalB? and dos.. tf or saie oy a. Ki. amitn Smelting uo; Lejchin. AJXX AXOOXJO TZaTT.T gggB TO APPTitlSg. BMea of the HOMESTAKE, GRANITE MOUrfTAin, DRUM LUhVS&L Conviction. Follow Stripes " ANACONDA, BLUE BIRD. LEXINGTON and " In these civilized times," muttered (he State's prisoner, glancing down at CPMPAN1E3 REcucnori VVQR:C3. his garb, "it is much the same as in the OoeMl snS ntvmm J3ing. rielattos sfogisieav days of Christian persecutions stripesoPetlxf3 ao Devolepcaant (lclse. are sure to follow conviction." BaltiBuilders ' a glance. Aim cvirsr well-fittin- V- cress fairly well there is one whose clothes fit him. Of the other nlnwty- nine, a great majority jallpw thetnlves to do deceived imp one are all opinions, viz: That the garmentsoijivro fight, or aud distortions that the wrinkles! are necessary evil T herd are; however, a few who realize jthat souteihlrr Is the matter, and that the tallo Is responsi ble, hut they doj not know wnat to uo aDout it. 'xney so iromj one lauor 10 another, seldom orderlhR ihor9 than one euifc from any. and cherishing in their souls a feeling of .nimpsity against the entire sartorial pjrolesilon, which may be Inst enough but will never take the bag out of the knees of! a pair of pauta 1 loons. HISTINOTI.y NOT THE FASHIOX. I wish to give a few bints which lr to his the enabh dovnot reader get they shoulder. the It Is upon every tf part In teach will case, worth very! money's bearsee are to ends often the ithat easy kick'! that will be him how to make all the weight of the garment. This understood. The subject fls worth at- - ing insures your diUatisf action. iA very tentlon. Well fitting clothes may not be hollow shoulder may need a little padas Important as a good jjnoral character, a resort to that rembut usually ding, but they have th great advantage In a iu your tailor's indicates edy deficiency at of visible this hurrying country being bi Tt v It had 1 Strangling be-eo- me to-da- j !. eold try mil Drv C: All. Gty of Londojx, Caledonia of Ciinhnrs'. .' " HsaeljostorMcrt Ealand; CrrlcCsld cf drcrd cf KU!::iia,! AoeTiasa cl4Tn Co!xlaad ITi.. v .:.'-'. -:-- - , ' ! - Ei e10 Tin ig r::rTer:3i- Trcmwcyo. - 1 ! i Assets, $21 ,9! 1,7 15.74 " 13.C39.27 7.0a . Vlr liidflctnudood Hoiptriag HiQiaco trixn KtnE (vsnxo ciuizq cxst& cslc;zzj , nicotrio Olaeaac Cafe)av'.ITZritc, frr ; Haj CvfUa. OONCDNTHHTION PMLLOitb ol Benl Xi Guardian of London, Commercial Union of London, Sun Fire 0lee of London, ' 1 ' -Phcsnix of Lo,niim, i&n cash ire of Inland, - 8,432,J97.00 7.430.535.03 Cafiit0.t5,CdO,O0O.C3 M iQ,cc3,coaca . Assets l,C:3,eiaC3 . 1,103,190X3 4,C4J,419.C3 S, Sf710,C03.C3 - -- 154550.. ;r.- ' GEO. MDLLETT & CO. i.cciccaca " Sf ; l,--t- -i 5 C.CCv 5Ca,132.5pf fli4rr "Ai.ni Tlio y, Are fcr'o buy tblx, ISi J. O. A.,j -- cirri trraxx. V.zz-t2vL- nearly ceased to breathe. Realizing that the child's alarming condition had possible in spite of the medicine it had taken, I reasoned that such remedies would be of no avail. Having a part of a bottle of Ayers Cherry Pectoral In the house, I gave the child three doses, at short intervals, and anxiously waited results. From the moment the Pectoral was given, the child's breathing grew easier, and In a short time It was sleep-mg qiueuy ana Dreaming naturally. The child Is alive and well and I do not hesitate to say that Ayers Cherry Pectoral saved its life." C J. Wooldridje, Wortham, . Texas. For colds, ooufhs, bronchitis, asthma and the early stages of consumption, take of Improved Atr Cempreasors end CD. r. -- rcll, Z23.. iats. TrUa U ; tU bottles. - crrcrTAL JlANtrrACTT:xitR or Ka aht ATiz:.'r::u civ::i zo cat. load or Cotti.ki w Our New r Pall Goods reeiy. for tacsetlasa, A3 cl-- ir :CarCliyiiDc.I;KtKaialL34&fiir All! '.f3'U:)f.:it!( t Car - .ptrsssat are ,we3 etskcJ .;.sr '..s - . it-lt- EsaasS -. of .'all . - t?M! . til tLa lia. ;1 r. ' . . etr' - - ... |