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Show ..rjayuly 5,1928 THE LEHI SUN. LEIII. UTAH PAGE SEVEN Satin and Velvet , Paris' Fall Mode Mid-Season Exhibitions , Forecast Materials Likely to Be Favored. i Tbe rapidity with which fashion news 1 now circulated through the iDited States, together with the Increased In-creased Interest in fashions resulting from the national prosperity there, has put France on the qui vlve to keep ahead of the constant demand for "something new." The mid-sea-on collections, writes a Paris correspondent corre-spondent in the New lork Times, once of secondary Importance, have become as ambitious In Ideas and as prolific in models as the semiannual exhibitions on which all tbe world attends. ; ?,. And in addition to these formal showings, each designer is daily adding add-ing a model here and a model there, as well as new designs in Jewelry, lingerie, perfumes, handbags, etc., until, un-til, according to one prominent American Amer-ican merchant, the American market is bewildered by the problem of determining de-termining what Is good and what Is bad in this flood of new things, and has been driven to turning that prob lem over to "stylists" for solution "stylist" being the new title of the person chosen by large stores to advise ad-vise their buying forces. The stylists must be puzzled themselves them-selves just now as to whether to proclaim pro-claim this coming fall a velvet or a satin season. In the mid-season collections col-lections being shown, these two materials ma-terials are struggling for supremacy, with the odds so far about even. Velvet has an advantage in that it comes now printed In a wide range of floral patterns, though It Is an open question whether these will seem appropriate ap-propriate as the winter snows approach. ap-proach. These floral patterns are duplicated du-plicated exactly In chiffon, so that amusing ensemble effects are obtainable obtain-able with them, just as they are with the taffetas and chiffons at present Rich, Heavy Satins. As an offset to this wider range of velvet designs, Lelong has made the fashionable heavy satins practicable for afternoon gowns by introducing a number of lovely deep shades, such as prune, raisin and tete de negre. The texture of.this rich material naturally nat-urally precludes St from use In the gowns of fanciful cut, but fortunately the beauty of the coloring requires very little outside ornamentation other oth-er than self-inlays cut against the nap, and perhaps lingerie or embroidered embroid-ered collars end cuffs. This same satin also appears in a number of ensemble coats In the Lelong Le-long collection, but generally In a black or brown shade. The choice of brown was to be expected since this designer has based almost his entire collection of ensemble or separate coats on the tan and brown tones, running the . gamut, from : beige through leather and tete de negre. When not of satin, these brown coats are made In the soft-finished weaves, like broadcloth, and on many Sports Suit of Velvet; Pale Blue and Silver Jumper. of them he uses golden seal or caracul, cara-cul, making great pouch cuffs and a shawl collar which is cut in, however, in square lapels. When the ensemble coat is of wool, the frock is of satin or chiffon and, in all the collections, considerable use Is still made of tucks, corded , lucks, and narrow bands, whether stitched down or left partly dangliDg as Worth uses them. If one is to judge by these most recent exhibitions, the flat furs are to be restored to favor this coming fall. Caracul, rbaved lamb, breitschwanz. al, ermine, beaver, in fact every type of flat fur, appear as collars and cuffs on the npw coats. These, by the ay. seem Inclined to remain straight n line, though every designer has suggested sug-gested changes from godet inserts at the left back hem or on both back hems to coats with circular skirts cut ith the same longer-in back line now found on frocks. The flat furs on these new coats alto al-to of originality in cutting. Cuffs of 'hem are made In tas?elated outlines where they are silhouetted against 'he sleeve, strips being laid diagonally I f I r around. These are "bag- cuffs, which begin almost at the elbow and bang full to the wrist, where they are caught under. The combination of black and white shows its perennial charm again In the new collections at Jenny's. Lus-trous Lus-trous black breltschwanz, that cloth-like, cloth-like, moire fur, Is made into a frock now, a black and white frock that typifies Jenny's collection. The skirt is wrapped to the left, the Jumper blouse is bound and belted in narrow satin stripes, and ermine Is used in a flat French bowknof at the left of the square neckline and at the left belt. Reversible Coating Material. Sports coats were another feature of the Jenny showing, sports coats made of the new reversible coating material which is as soft and downy as a , woolen blanket and comes in plain color on one side and a matching match-ing check or plaid on the back. A weave In which sand color on one side was backed with a sand-and-black check made one swagger coat. It was cut with a Bwinglng raglan skirt and a straight, high collar which buttoned ' ill ft Dress of Navy Blue Satin, Worn by Dons Swanson, Actress. np the left front of the neck. A deep joke across the front chest was continued con-tinued to make the sleeves and spread In a deep point half way down the back of the coat. Worth has found a means of diversifying diver-sifying the plain satin evening gown. He embroiders a wreath of flowers about the deep U neckline and cuts I lie skirt In four panels, the two back ones very long. When these panels swing apart with the movement of the wearer, a short drop-skirt of flowered flow-ered chiffon is disclosed, printed in the same floral design that Is embroidered embroid-ered on the waist. - Another "surprise" Idea comes from this same designer. It begins with the usual popular tiered skirt, tiered either In plaited or circular flounces, and trie- "surprise" Is In the form of a brightly contrasting foundation skirt. In this design, If the founda tion matches the skirt In color, a wide contrasting trimming band Is placed at the top of each ruffle, being fully concealed when the dress Is In repose. Chic Printed Fabrics. Printed fabrics are the joy of the girl who has a summer's gayety before be-fore her. Polka' dots are exceedingly popular and are used In many different differ-ent models, in frocks, in ensembles and in separate coats. A dress of crepe de chine is printed in a pattern of dots in varied sizes in brown on n light beige ground, and a coat of the dotted material is lined and bound ail about the edge with brown ' crepe. This order Is reversed by some designers, de-signers, who make the dress of plain goods and the coat of the figured. An eccentric ensemble Is made in two shades of green crepe de chine, with dark spots printed on a lighter background In the plaited skirt and three-quarter coat, and an overblouse in the same colors and patterns but with light dots on a dark ground. The assortment of printed materials Includes silks, crepes, voiles, nlnon and chiffon. These are nsed In many different ways, some distinctly original. orig-inal. In a winsome frock from Lu-cien Lu-cien Lelong the dress Itself is built of white crepe de chine, with a plaited plait-ed skirt and a sleeveless blouse in which a tightly-fitted girdle is finished with a row of buttons at each side. A large square printed In Roman stripes is worn low over one shoulder and knotted with fringed ends over the other. . Cyber makes a softly draped frock of crepe de chine with dark blue figures fig-ures on a light blue ground, which la finished down the surplice front, skirt bottom and side drapery with dark blue velvet ribbon. A straight coat cut full length is made of crepe In the lighter blue and banded down each side and on collar and cuffs with the ribbon. Navy Blue Coats The revival of Interest In navy blue this season runs throughout the whole wardrobe. Coats of this becoming col or are particularly attractive and it is possible to end just toe style tuat is suited to one's type. x0 BrfUTL ax are made at H oooooxxxxoooooooooooooooooooo oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo EVKltYTHKNU from furniture and automobiles to corsage bouquets Is being lacquered. In bright colors these days. Leading French milliners are featuring oof only lacquered straws but they are trimming these shiny hats with lacquered flowers and fruits. The boutonniere of lacquered posies Is also tres chic. , With a few simple materials and a little leisure time spent In following directions as given below fn regard to sealing wax craft, It is possible for the woman deft of fingers to make lacquered lac-quered flowers as handsome as those sold at the most exclusive shops, f . It requires crepe paper the color ot the flowers one intends making, amber sealing wax which when melted Is transparent, and wire. You will also need an alcohol lamp, a wax molder (pliable knife) and a piece of glass to work on, also a pot of paste and a paste brush. The first step 1s to form a piece of the spool wire Into a ring '(Fig. 1), then shape like a petal (Fig. 2). Wild STRIKING SPORTS COSTUME roses are easiest to make. Gardenias, so very fashionable at this moment, are also simply constructed. The one In tbe picture (top panel) Is tn the smart rose-beige shade. A single lacquered gardenia on the coat lapel is very effective or one can arrange several around a straw or felt cloche as pictured at the top of the Illustration Illus-tration but to continue directions for making. The next step Is to cover the wire frame well with paste and place between two pieces of stretched crepe paper the color yoo wanl your leai (Fig. 3). When paste Is dry, trim close to wire frame (Fig. 4). To cover with sealing wax bold the leaf near the flame of an alcohol lamp. Light mm I ft itt -' 1 " " 'J ft ft fc'.. J , pJ""'1 r ; s&. iff 'sk " i fltw6 . k 1 - WS' fit " i - , lWIWM '. ": . .,: It the stick of amber sealing wax In the flame and add drop by drop over the surface of the crepe paper leaf until entirely covered (Fig. 5). Spread out if necessary with the molding knife. By working quickly and getting get-ting the knack, the sealing wax will smooth out over the surface, the color of the under paper reflecting through Its transparency. Perhaps in planning materials foi your- sportswear or other daytime costumes, it never occurred to you to tnclude flannel. To omit flannels, as now are, from one's wardrobe pro gram, Is to not keep pace with 'he mode, for flannel Is at this moment a supremely roguish material Of course we are not referring to flannel in the old-fashioned sense ot a heavy rugged Irritating woolen which the aged wore as a cure-all for In firmities and the young were urged to wear (but wouldn't) as a preventn tlve from all Illness. Oh, dear not The flannels which fashion prescribes are the daintiest, prettiest, most colorful color-ful and most begulllngly patterned fabrics one ever did see. It Is Just this way. a lot of style emphasis is being placed on woolen fabrics these days, which brings flannels Into the limelight Now In order to measure op to the style standards of this age and generation, manufacturers "got busy" and proceeded to modernize flannel, so to speak. Tbe flannel of today Is flan nel "to the queen's taste." It is exquisite ex-quisite not only In texture but In coloring col-oring and design, and It is as delicate as daintiest silk and tbe like. Tbe new flannels are Indeed a revelation rev-elation of brightest textile artistry. It is possible to obtain these exquisite woolens in lovely floral prints on creamy or pastel backgrounds. As to striped flannels, they are of outstand Ing smartness. The striking sport costume In this picture Is of blue and white striped flannel, for either mldd blue or navy with white Is one of tit-present tit-present leading color combinations JULIA BOTTOM LEY (. 1S2S. Wetter Newcpapet ltaloa.1 IsIEABINLTIIl & 1121. Waium Newipaper Union.) We must not hope to be mowers And to gather the ripe sold esrs, Unless we have first been sowers And watered the furrows with tears. It ts not Just as we take It, This mystical world of ours; Life's field wlU yield as we make A harvest ot thorns or ot flowers. - ., i . .. ' i Goethe. ., SOMETHING TO EAT Sometime for a choice pie try this pastry: Take one and one-half cup- Xuls ot flour, inree tablespoonfuls of finely ground almonds, al-monds, three tablespoonfuls ot sugar, one tea-spoonful tea-spoonful of salt, cut or rub In one-h one-h a I f cupful of flour and lastly add one beaten egg with Just enough cold water to keep the pastry together. Roll out as usuul. Small bits of smoked fish for flavor added to scrambled eggs makes a most appetizing breakfast or luncheon lunch-eon dish. ' . We certainly should cultivate more of a culinary imagination, for there are countless things thnt add to taste, appearance and wholesomeness of our food, which are constantly at hand, but we do not see them. Those of us who are fond of mushrooms mush-rooms wonder why people will pass by the tasty bunches of wholesome food and never give them a glance. One fresh meaty mushroom chopped and cooked In a little butter and added add-ed to a dish of scrambled eggs will make it a dish fit for the gods. Pounds of this delectable vegetable go to waste even In city backyards. A little knowledge Is a dangerous thing, might have been said of mushroom knowledge, knowl-edge, but a little study with one who knows will fit one to know a few of the ordinary varieties which are found so plentifully all through the summer and fall months. There Is no more tasty dish than creamed mushrooms on toast. Clean them, peel the caps, and cut Into small pieces; cook in butter for five minutes, then add a cream sauce, or simply add a thick cream and pour over buttered toast Serve hot To broil the caps peel them and brown under the gas or over coals, first on the round side of' the cap, then fill the cap with, butter and cook until thoroughly done. Serve on toast Pieces of dried cheese are often thrown away as useless. These If grated will make enough to sprinkle over several dishes of soup, adding to the nutriment as well as flavor. Pears with cottage cheese Is a delightful de-lightful combination, or any cream cheese Is equally good. Small balls of rich seasoned cottage cheese served with a spoonful of tart preserved currants Is another treat. Cheese is a most concentrated food and when well masticated is easy to digest Good Things to Eat A small cake that is attractive Is always nice to have on hand .to serve with a cup of tea or coffee. Chocolate Wreaths Iilnncn enough shelled almonds al-monds to make two cupfuls when put through the finest knife ol I lie food chopper. Beat three eggs (and add one and one half cupfuls of sugar) su-gar) for ten minutes, then add the almonds and one ounce of sweet chocolate choc-olate grated. Mix well and put Into a pastry bag. Form In rings on a buttered baking sheet, placing them well apart. Bake slowly for twenty minutes until when tested with a toothpick It conies out clean. Yolk Rings. Cream one-third ot a cupful of butter, add one-half cupful of granulated sugar, and add three hard-cooked egg yolks and one fresh yolk (put the cooked ones through a sieve), mix well. To two cupfuls of pastry flour add the grated rind of half a lemon and one eighth of tea-spoonful tea-spoonful of mace, stir nnd mix well, knead on a hoiird with till the Ingredients, Ingredi-ents, (toll one-quarter Inch llihk. cut with doughnut cutter, brush wllh a yolk of sprinkle with sugar and bake fn a slow oven until the cakes are firm. Grape Juice Souffle. Soak one envelope en-velope of sparkling gelatin fn one pint of sweetened grape Juice and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Heat over water until the gelatin Is dissolved, dis-solved, then strain, set Into a pan of Ice and when the mixture begins to thicken fold In the stiffly beaten whites of four eggs. Half fill a mold dipped in cold water, to chill; to the remainder add three-fourths of a cup of heavy cream beaten stiff. Fill the mold or molds with the cream mixture and chill. Remove from the molds and serve with whipped cream flavored with vanilla. Tomato Saiad, Frozen. To one quart of tomatoes add three tablespoonfuls table-spoonfuls of sugar and season with salt and cayenne, ttien rub through u sieve, adding onion Juice If desired. FYeeze In one-pound baking powder cans and serve sliced on lettuce, with mayonnaise dressing. Pack In equal parts of Ice and salt to freeze. Serve with walnut meats. I Mat v J X NURSES know, and doctors have declared there's nothing quite like Bayer Aspirin for all sorts of aches and pains, but be sure it is genuine Bayer; that name must be on the package, and on every tablet Bayer is genuine, and the word genuine in redis on every box. You can't go wrong if you will just look at the box : Annirtn U the trade mtrk of Tla vi Manufacture of Monoaceticteldester of SillcIlcicli Long Auto Tow Dr. Eugene W. Fisk of Santa Fe, N. U., claims the long-distance record for being towed. Doctor Fisk found, when he was ready to return from a trip to a far-distant farmhouse, that the generator of his car was burned out A two-ton truck came to his rescue and towed him 77 miles from La Ven-tana Ven-tana to Albuquerque, over the most hazardous of mountain roads. The trip took five hours. The tow rope broke once and the truck went on some miles before the driver discovered discov-ered he had lost his trailer. They Stay Put "Are good husbands hard to find?" asked the sweet young thing. "No,''' replied the old married woman, wo-man, "a good husband spends his time around home and you always know where he Is." Cincinnati Enquirer. In the Same Boat Father Jimmy, open the door for your poor, tired pa. Mamma has locked me out and I want to get In. Jimmy Well, she's locked me In and I wanna get out. r 1 1 The Woman Driver Ilike to drive with Cham-pioaSparkPlugsbecause Cham-pioaSparkPlugsbecause I know I'll not be annoyed annoy-ed with engine trouble due to faulty spark plugs. Champion. Is the bettcrspark plug because it has an exclusive illi tnanite insulator spe cially treated to with stand the much higher temperatures of the modern high-compres ion encine. Also anew patented solid copper gasket-teal thatremaina absolutely gas-tight1 under high compression. compres-sion. Special analysis electrode wbkhassure a fixed iparlfgap under all driving conditions. Champion SpargPlugs Toledo, Ohio 624 Dependable for Every Engine ' f - (h. t'uft rtfi vrtu wnnt Knnd HAlarv a manager In California? Have you store x. IN-rtPtice and sorim money? Aiidres Chain fctorea, 2831 Exposition. Loa Angles. Calif. I'yorrhra, homr treatment eliminate and removes cause. aldlnK nature to restore health. Money bark if not Hatla. J3. Dr. E. Bedford. 100S Lcews State Blda-., Los AiiKeles. Calif. fate. Trades. Eirlmnrrs. Eerywhere,BMR. Homes, Farms, Ranches. Bus. Opnor. Write fully douthwestern Investment Bulldinft CcMemhersCuam. of Com., Albuquerque. N.M. FIRST AID TO BEAUTY AND CHARM Nothing so mars an otherwise other-wise beautiful lace as tbe Inevitable lines ot fatigue and suffering caused by tired, aching feet. aLUH'S FOOT-EASE, the Antiseptic, Healiiig Powder, Insures foot comfort. It Is a Toi let Necessity, (ihakeit In your shoes in the morning. Shop all day . ban ail renwz then let toot mirror tetl the story. Trial par k-tre k-tre and a FooUM Walkme Pfll Free Addiess anea's Feet-Ease. ( t?r. la a PiBCtu Dae Allea'a Foot-Ease For Mosquito Bites, Sting cf Bees and Venomous Insect MAN FORD'S BALSAM OF MYRRH Mossy bats, tor Srst bottis tt art sattod AH desists. W. N. U, Salt Lake City, No. 27-19:8. |