Show Ut Utahn hn Se Sees s I Constantinople Ad I 6 I h 9 I i It IlLin oI 7 1 2 i J 1 cIr cI J P J 7 r I i I I v i y x 4 I I 1 MOSQUE OF SULTAN AHMED nn j I f Special Correspondences Correspondence Jan Jun C to the from the flack sea is III a verry verno narrow passage way guarded on both bolh by Immense ragged ed rocks which ns liS dangerous enemies to the tho mar Iner sailing hili ship from Crom one sea Into the other What object nature could have In making the passage so Is hard to say lIay She Sho may havo had no object at nil but It looks hiko allowed allowe 1 the tho atmosphere und and the tho earth to conspire together to make mako a thing not of at easy accomplishment between tILe tho two for almost continually a heavy hewy tog fog over part ot of the shore where tha deep ot of the tho with the darker vatere ot of the tho mack Black sea lieu AN OBLIGING FOG Dy By way ay ot of apology for Its general bad behavIor the tho fog rog risen for tor the paco or of twenty or thirty minutes two or three threll times durIng the and ships lay luy to awaiting favor tavor favorable able Intervals when whon the musty moo mon arch shown his willingness that they thoy Tony puss by gracefully lifting and nl al lowing the sun Bun to smile through hazy Clouds on the tho bound Ills It is a 0 sight thief that would make muke an artist shout for or joy when the tho fog rises like the tho curtain ot of a gigantIc theater dis disclosing closing to for miles the hili of the tho coat coast Fortunately all on thIs particular morn mornIng morning Ing In February or January Januar Jf If pre ferret after the steamer Ell Eli hail stopped Mopped her n at the dull boom of oC tho Turkish fog gun Fog Fol became gracious nod and with only half hair Rn 1111 flourS waiting 1111 hesi hesitating tating rosl cud allowed us liS to pass under n a clear cloar sk sky into Inlo tho thio beautiful The glided through th the naw portal a ripple on th the 1 f trl trIa 1 C found in one le ot of the tho bel stretches of water In the tho thoI long nn roi sh strip p that g ropo from Cram Asia It Il wan wal scarcely to 10 ho ba that wo we Veru Hili 1111 g that wonder so rich in I and story where shere tho ihLo FOLt ea ot of Marmora and the tho Golden Horn land lies the Iho and I the dark blue water That swiftly glIdes gently swells the thO Winding Dardanelles I BEAUTIFUL It Is II a picture that approaches the I pl COUll do It justice POet could find words that thaI could II COil Convoy a traction of the tho feelings horn within at its sight On either side elde thu hilts hIlls rise a abruptly clothed in II a I mantel of oC rIch Ilch green that contrasts sharply with the clusters or of red and yellow rellow houses that stand at the tho wa wate te torB edge edgo Every gO has hus ItA mosque ue or of white whose mInaretS point like gigantic figures to the tho abode ot of Allah Look where you will there Is III nothing to jar the scene nothing to 10 mar H itH beauty It Is in a 0 panorama of oC scenic that can call scarcely hare havo u rival It Is so Inset flitting and holds hold ono one In contemplation that the two hours con Crom the entrance till the districts of at como come Into view Jew nass all US Il a flash It ft Is nil all u a gorgeous dreama dream however bitt hoes doos not lid but bul DiLly in III of beauty and impressiveness as tho city Is DIU Alt Villages become inure inore fre frequent rind the tho houSes assume II at different character n a richer character towns lite country hom homes s sot ot of wealthy l Then hon the deserted palaces ot of former are pointed nut thom them tho thom long bOg or of 1 a whiteness that drizzles tho eye oye famIlIar to every otto ono Ihl OIL 1111 palace Directly In the Path lath or of the tho appear the lOW houses of tart Inri an nut Indistinct i tho Ils ribs I a turn lurn tid ml on tho thim right bank the throe three run con I at ot Of the unrest whit which time the Dolma she Conic cOllie Into view ino Another hor turn or of the tho hilI a mind 1111 Is tar itt to time the len left Willie while Oil the tight right a hair n a milt mile further on oh Galata Is scan a 11 I mountain or houses rIsing from the water capped by Its ancient tower Tho turn that brings the ship In line of the Galata landing stage brings also and without warning a 0 vIew that Is absolutely startling Tho whole ot of Stam bout stands out with the cl clean cut distinctness ot of a pIece ot of theatrIcal scenery Son ot of the prophet what a picture I First thu eye IYO rests on thu point where the old seraglio pinnacles or of which aro clearly seen the tho old walls and trees that surround It Slightly further up and In iii the tho background rico the yellow of the tho Aya Sophia and on to the Iho right surmounting the tho whole Is the gray white while domo ot of the mosque ot o Sul Sultan tan tari Ahmed whose six minarets with those or of tho Aya Sophia tower high bight nil all elso cIllo In Stamboul Hounding the point ot of Guinta still further out of the tho mass ot of houses on the tho sloping bill hili the large Ottoman bank building protrudes Its bulky form orm This revives memories ot or tho horrible Armenian massacres which hati their Inception there thero It was In this bank the tho spark foil that kindled that lire or of wrath and religious hatred that consumed thousands or of human lives TIlE GOLDEN HORN Now the ship enters the tho Golden Horn and the thu landing nt at no novel noory vel ory great dIstance from that most Ia fa famous und and InterestIng bridge of oC whoso whose varying throng of pedestrians Is clearly to bo be seen A jar and scrape at atthe the steamers side causes a hustling to of wraps and satchels preparatory preparatory tory to landing My baggage being With those of a I gentleman from whom J I had met on board and who heft hefta a carrier to meet him and look after aCter nil alt Buch as trunks and hand handgrips grips I i have to concern myself In all any way so devoted III my time to an Inspection of the surging and swaying crowd ott on the quay t i tWILL WILL HELP PERFORCE c gf ii tL l l 4 o of that fighting miLlS i humanity mt It the waiting to seize Holzo anything that mIght be carried whether with or wIthout tho owners fly By knocking several all an manages to clear cleara a space a f fw w feet foet from tho end ot of the tho which Is immediately tely tilled up again andt and then ell again cleared Finally after aCtor IL te few such clearings pas passengerS passengers may moy begin to disembark RUDE OFFICIALS A passport Is just about tho most vat val possession a man has hall In Turkey lilY my feelings can hardly bo be Imag iliad when my Berlin no the thu plank with pass passport passport port In hand Into that bunch of rut It it was rudely snatched from my grasp I think I must have hao become the tho color of h as I demanded from ray lilY what such Il a proceed proceedIng Ing c mean lie Ill assured mol me I should have havo my pass pals back again In the tho course of n a few ow minutes as aK everybody had to go through the tho same samu flatness And now we were on Turkish soil pIcking our wn vay in III the crowd trying In vain to avoid mud holes holls and sleeping dogs lying hying In every conceivable position on the tho uneven old cobblestones QUESTIONED IN FRENCH FRENCHA A matter mattei of 50 yards covered and we were In tim tho ancient tumbledown cus custom torn tom house housu waiting In line to bo be ques questioned questioned anti have IlIve our Passports returned to u us The Tho spoke French and alien my turn came I was greeted with witha a searchIng look and a gruff Suel est by Rn an list ot of questions where from what busIness here how long a stay In what hol hotel 1 1111 attn Innumerable such luch which incIte It a man loso nil 1111 pa patience tience The 1110 obliging Anton U us our had been beell triumphantly brought through the customs b by the tha aid or of the thi nil powerful back nn anti 1 wo we wore free Creo to 10 hunt hUllt our hotel Anton by the tho theay ay Is the porter who had met toy my German friend and to the lug luggage gage of both hoth ot of us If things are uro to be broUght through with II a minimum ot of trouble a little h must he be heu u used ed It takes over 2 hooks Dook being not allowed I hlll had to get gAt mine In concealed on toy lilY person I gUllS guess books or anything else elso cOuld coul be brought itt In It IC the tho of at thick enough MONEY of It a slight digression here will serve to show what It will do It Is the tho Turkish law luw to bring brine anything In the tho way oC at improvements luto the tho em empIre pIre arId partIcularly are all electrical under its Is majestic ban Now the lorn 1 Palace alace hotel wanted to install lights nn Cnn 1 the tho ent was willing to pay puy high to do so 80 soA A beautiful dynamo WAS ws put Chased In Germany and shipped ort oft ortto to Turkey but not flot till sufficient back timid hilI been deposited to the tho credit ot of the necessary custom house of to 10 enable them to 10 relaX their vigilance when the tho thyna dyna lao 1110 should arrive Things heln being so arranged In tIlls manner mannaI no noI I Of trouble was experIenced In tile the or of the tho desired delirod lights so 80 that now large arcs are 1110 placed oven ovon In time Ihu street In fr front nt ot Of the Ule hotel to Ii I the nightly pedestrians pedestrian on their WIly way through that particular Quarter Titu rhu Inspector saunters In Into into to time the booI omco every overy cnn nd p o ot of the cleric It there atC are match Buch things as electric lights In the tho ull The Tho clerk with II a negative und and bank and the tho inspector goes Ioos on his hili way rejoicing In tIm tho mighty power of oC the tho law luw to 10 till nil In ot Of helen Infidel far tro ron thu tho ot of tho he faithful nothIng Is III In AWAY V FROM OOt Hut html again to tithe tip 1111 In my narrative Oiro out Ir I the house houll II ny com CIO from the Ihu O lilY tul ft 11 carriage hogan hegan UIO thu ut of the rr 11 streets to tim Ihu floto by ito llY Ai What u vt t nUh lI I tf ts hold held They Thoy wore Ier its IA her hor horI I Y filthy its 11 the panorama of the city from the ship was In with ancient crumbling or of tUniC anti brIck II 1 Im with Il a n noisy l y shout shoutIng log Ing rag POPulation for tOr which there is IR room enough with the tue 11 i carts amid wagons wagon ko gO gOIng lag Ing Way mid that Item Hero und there nt itt the tho ot of 1 St U n toot foot and n a halt wide are aro piles of e Which u a park pack ot of ferocIouslY hungry logs Ire are torn fr a dinner Ahead 1 of oC our there were four with tL II polo on their shoulders to which wn th immense lse bale ot of ar dry 61 r than a M They lagged with thou heavy hlAy burden hurden junking our SloW Io Wt We past theny only when our driver they hail In m 1 lengthY war var nut flut Lii as tar far nR as I was there was no need or hurry for nove III my life kayo I beheld ilK as intenselY In mi IL picture lire ot Of lift na aS thORO streets present ut 11 iN hi II a 80 50 find and 9 so totally W we know that o every ry dogs dOlfI filth and nil all to me a source ot of log Ing 0 ON TO rO PERA At the tho top ot of the tho hili there Was Willi II a change for tIme the better lr it less 1188 Interest Interesting ing in III the aspect or of things generally We were lIero In Porn Pern the tho European tr br where the embassies s and hotels are situated In the rue ruo we Up In front or of the tho and except for Cpr the fact that the street had never been heen cleaned one onu could easily Imagine oneself In some quarter of Vienna Ionna or Paris Such Is the tho dIfference betl between en ul anti Pete PeteA ern ernA A FI FINE E It was WiS the o large of tho r Not only because tM thi lago windows overlooked that part of Galata lying between tho hotel hotd And th hUt l also over the Golden part of Bl Stem m mb b boul ul In Oct lIri mo may see ee n as tar far In that quarter 09 as the ruined mosque or of M b Al restored Its destruction b earth earthquake Quake of som o yearn Ug ago The Tho t ason for tor Its being left In tt ruined state is III said t to be one If f the In falling kIlled two prIests This was taken as a sign that Allah was with his particular house Of praYer so it Il USELESS WAR VESSELS The Tho waters or of the placid Golden oid ji Horn rn teem with n a life lito indescribable hosts I or of every size and areton moving every way Imaginable And In their midst stand tand out lit in file contrast soma come six or seven sevell ole ele elegant gant modern cruisers that from the tho dis tance ot of the hotel lOok Indeed formidable I able They are In fact the ery re rc reverse II verso verse of formidable The i tact fact or of tit tho matter Is the they have havo roo to roamed anchored In that same position since the tho tIme they were delivered to the TurkIsh government nt by a ship company In the United States some fomo coven soen or eight years ago Their machinery has gone to rUst their hulls I have become clogged with barnacles for fOl forno no crew Is kept on any of them and no one but a 0 lone Is there to keep possible tramps from makIng their homes home aboard Such Is the Turkish navy and when ono one hears In mind uch a condition one cannot be at the story or of the Turkish admiral who find Malta LEAKS IN THE TUE NAVY Immense sums of oC money aro prInted for the maintenance of oC alt all ef efficient navy but there thero are aro so many in III the channels through which these sums sum must pass pasa that nothing ever reaches all as a vessel Report has hasit it II that the Is not blind to 10 these thIngs but scenic affected with an ns as Indifference o TOLD ONE ONI BETTER DETTER TheY tell the st ry that the suitan having heard tite te title talc rota a foreign ambassador or of hOW a certain dervish could Ii a sword without s seem em emIng log Ing to feel teel at nit cut up about tot tel answered Why that Is I nothing you see Ice Hadin Boy Dey my minister of marine he swallows whole armored cruisers with more complaisance than thun your our dervish shows In a decade It seems a crime however to let I a navy gO to ruin In such Buch shameless fashion hut but I suppose that belongs to Turkey as as t the 0 dogs slid the tho SEEING TH CITY Dinner all as well vel as tho beautIful vIew being digested I set lout to improve m my with the city First to the Grand Gran 1 flue de Pore Pern the tho mal main II thoroughfare or of the Europ European un quarter better chas Greeks soil ens ans also live and the tho street stroet where most nit alt the embassies are located loOn FOR SAKE This is IK like time streets of oC other citIes to merit no more than Ihan I a e casual look hook It IS III interesting however to note the tho man manner mannor nor ner In which It we converted from 1 a narrow alley lle to the com coin comparatively wide mind decent lookIng street It Is non The Tho citizens or of Con really have havo Kaiser William to thank for tor this change After the tho kaisers visit to the city u a remark Ito ho made mado about tho narrow streets of the tho city reached the lito sultans ear N Mow lw lwIn In order to sho the tho kaIser In what is es esteem teem ho he Is held by the porte on the 00 cation of oC his hiI second visit the successor r or of the simply about a mile ot of property on tile the flue Ruo Peru had hul tM the houses torn lorn down and the Iho street I for the kaiser to 1599 through to the tho German embassy Thousands ot of People were to totally tall ruined by this at action ot of an absolute monarch but no doubt this tho Mohammedan cel CD science was soothed by the fact that they were alt and Greeks had the they been Turks It would have been looked on or that samoa iliUM stoic indifference to 10 the tho feelings or of oth ore that characterizes the Moslem A CABLE CADLE TUNNEL At t the tho beginning of r the Grand flue RIlO do Ieru is II nit an evidence or of pro rees rea hardly to |