Show RIDERS OF HAWAII to the citira absence 0 coral reef tho surf at all times breaks on these shores with prodigious violence but in stormy weather this is of conne increased tenfold and tho great green billow a come rushing in with overwhelming force these are tho delight of the bairt rach carries a surfboard surf board which is simply a wooden and rainiest is of coarse almost fill plunging beneath tho farat wac they rise beyond it and swim out to ECI till they meet another and then another in each case ahing just at the right moment to allow the billow to pass over them if they miscalculate by ono second tho surf catches tycin and dashes them shoreward when they need to be good swimmers to escape being battered on the rocks but long practice makes perfect and many of the surf riders divo safely lio deat h each successive ware till they reach tho comparatively smooth water beyond the swell then laying themselves flat on their board they prepare for their exciting rido their first care is to select a winning aca borso they calculate cal culata that every third wave in larger than the rest and higher on the beach fo their aim is to mount the biggest billow which carries them shoreward at almost lightning speed the ride has all the excitement of a raco for should the rider fail to keep his nt exactly the right anglo on the crest of tho green billow ho will be overtaken by the breaking euit ot the wave which follows and to avoid this buet again dive beneath it and swim out to sea to make a fresh start should he fail to select the right wave as his courser and find himself on one of the lesser waves tho result is the fame as it will break ere ho reaches tho chore and ho mast again do battle with the pitiless surf and swim for hia life but abo man whose edill and luck are alike good has a wildly exhilarating race lie lies on ho wave apparently JQ security with abo tumultuous batera and burt it ho can the sandy beach tho carry him right on to it but always danger of being swept on to tho cruel black where the ablest anda 4 hard to discern the narrow passages through which the ing entea ruth so madly and often he la to abandon hit trusty surfboard surf board and turning seaward plunge bo benth th wave and make his way to point where he can acho in safety iiii surfboard la probably reduced to in i few seconds a loss which is to him as that of averite bat to n cricketer tha baarda in favor we made fron alio wood of the which i cf light jt grown in alie ani ia mix b uasa or as it il a kindl i haib you have ant to stick on of lla in the earth and it takes root ni iorii ia aitu a blaze of scarlet A good mit board is about nil moll and a half in thickness inches wide and eight feet long mil should be slightly hollowed down the centre and rounded at one end it is back frequently rubbed with oil and preserved with the greatest care being wrapped up in cloth and hung up in some safe corner of the house it is called papa hi which anemi wae sliding board and is BO named from the papa or formerly used in a game callol corua which exactly an shered to tho toboggan of the canadians Cana diani |