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Show 'J'A OSJ YArO r n HE flourishing town of Zam-j Zam-j " boanga, in the Philippine islands, is-lands, is well laid out and the ever-present Chino sup-H. sup-H. plies the modest wants of life. The military post is just outside the fort and supplied with the most comfortable and pretentious houses I have seen in any garrison over here. As Zamboanga is a peaceful peace-ful province one can drive through Morotown without anxiety. The smell Df dried fish greets one everywhere. Part of the village Is built out over the water and the glimpses of life in It are most interesting. At Jolo a carriage was waiting for us and we drove at once beyond the walled city and out through the famous fa-mous avenue of palms. Later we walked beyond the walls, and through Morotown. Six guards stand before the gate and warn everyone of the danger of going beyond the walls on foot and repeat the prohibition for officers of-ficers to do so unarmed. We were told that only a few days before our arrival a Moro had attacked one of the guards; but we had not come thus far to be cheated of so unusual an experience, ex-perience, and the element of real danger had Its charms; so armed with a loaded revolver, a sharp kris and a parasol we started out. After crossing the bridge, where we were quite out of hearing of the garrison, we walked one behind the other and kept a sharp lookout on every side! At the well in the center of Morotown we stopped for a good look at the spot where three of our soldiers were attacked while they were sitting there chatting three months before. These Moros trace their origin to the Mohammedan Invaders and like all of their tribe hate Christians and believe be-lieve that for every one killed another degree of felicity 13 attained for the after life. In a condition of religious insanity the "juramentada" takes an oath to kill Christians until he himself is killed. He shaves his eyebrows and head, works himself into a state of frenzy during a night devoted to religious re-ligious excesses and then starts out on the warpath. Death being the only possible end for him, he is entirely fearless and reckless. Beyond the wall in Morotown a long rickety pier runs out into the water and we walked the length of It, entering enter-ing many of the houses to bargain for brass and chow baskets. On these occasions oc-casions we kept our backs to the wall and hurried on when we noticed any of them stopping too long to examine us with their cruel glances. They will kill as readily to procure a firearm as for anything else and It was impossible impos-sible not to feel constant anxiety, as we knew the danger to be entirely real. We were too far from the walls for cries to be heard, and even a shot, if it brought rescue at all, could do so only too late. It was intensely interesting, Intensely exciting, but the tension was too great to be a pleasure for long, and I was-glad to be safe back Inside the walls again. Here we were met at every turn by Moros selling pearls, and as we had nothing to fear from those inside we had leisure to examine them and their wares. Jolo is famous for its pearl fisheries, and although the Lest pearls are bought up before they reach the visitor's hand, some pretty ones can be found. There was a fascination about being in the very heart of the country of those Malay pirates whose deeds were among the favorite stories ot childhood. child-hood. The name Sulu is to the Inhabitants Inhabi-tants of other Islands synonymous with treachery and ferocity. Piracy was a regular trade among the natives, na-tives, whose daring exploits carried them as far as Singapore and New Guinea, where th?y spread misery and devastation. As far north as Mala-bang Mala-bang on the Celebes sea there are blockhouses along the coast for refuge from these sea robbers. Seen from the water the town of Jolo Is extremely extreme-ly picturesque, the occasional red roof of a foreign building in no wise lessening les-sening the uncivilized appearance of the whole. Rising behind the town Is Mount Da jo. mada famous by the wonderful won-derful assault and capture of it by our troops. Cotabato, Parang-Parang and Malabang, on the Celebes eea, were uext touched at, and then after another an-other stop at Zamboanga and again at Camp Overton the course lay toward Cebn ' 'e Visays. Cebu Is a prosperous town and a cncleciiter, hemp and coal be ing its chief exports. Shells of every description are for sale, but otherwise there is little one cares to buy. Here in the Church of Santo Nino is preserved pre-served a little black statue of the Holy Child which was brought over by Magellan. Ma-gellan. The collection of jewels for. it is said to be priceless. They were stored in Hongkong during the Insurrection, Insur-rection, and they remain there, as the duty Is too high to permit of their being be-ing brought back.; Across the strait Is the little Island of Mactan, where Magellan Ma-gellan was killed. On leaving Cebu we stopped at Or-moc Or-moc In Leyte and then anchored for a short while in Carigura bay to unload provisions for Tacloban. At Calbayog, Samar, we stopped for a couple of hours only, and then made for home, and were met in Verde passage by the steam launch from Batangas, which brought us to land in two hours. With visions of waving palms and bamboos and a riotous burst of color in your mental picture of the tropics, Manila is a disappointing reality, as it lies low and business-like along the water front. The dolce far nlente of southern climes seems to have no place in this commercial ' metropolis, where everything is life and bustle. The great bay Is large enough to accommodate ac-commodate the fleets of the world and an enormous breakwater built out from the mainland gives shelter to at least forty large vessels. At all times the roadstead is filled with ships, and the clanking of chains, the tooting of frhistles and the rapid liquid speech ot the native coolies working along the water front create a lively scene. . The houses are raised high above the ground to avoid the dangerous earth vapors which the Tagals call "allmoon," and seek to avoid at the beginning of the rainy reason; the walls are fitted with slides of lattice work Into which shells are Inserted instead in-stead of glass, and with these drawn back the house looks like an open pavilion. pa-vilion. The ground floor is occupied by shops or used as a grain store room or carriage shed, and not infrequently as a stable, in which case the walls are dispensed with. These native houses are built of hard wood, mostly of mahogany, which is disfigured with whitewash and paint, some of them being be-ing resplendent in pink, blue or yellow. yel-low. The living rooms are reached by a flight of stone steps running up on the outside. Rents in Manila are high, 200 or 300 pesos ($100 or $150) being the average price per month for a dwelling of moderate size. The city of Manila proper is a huge, fortress, surrounded by high stone walls and bastions and bulwarks on the landward side and protected by a moat which may be flooded by means of sluices to cut off the city. Fort Santiago, San-tiago, the citadel, guards the entrance to the Pasig, which divides Manila into two parts the walled city just described de-scribed and the commercial centers. The Escolta in Binondo is the principal prin-cipal shopping street and It Is prosperous pros-perous looking with its many peQs-trians, peQs-trians, its trolley cars and elo' lights; the shops are up to dat' almost all desires can be satlsTOiPli you are willing to pay Manila prices. Here, as everywhere in the islands, John Chinaman absorbs a large part of the trade and is the picture of contentment con-tentment as he lazily smokes his pipe in the doorway. Everywhere you encounter the faithful faith-ful carabao, sometimes plodding along under a heavy load, his great horns swaying with the constant nodding of. his head and his fat body rocking from side to side, sometimes drawn up to the sidewalk, where he lies down In harness, indifferent to th'e march of progress around him. Litce, half-clothed children run about, dotfg ing the flying heels of swift native ponies. These tiny mites of horses, with an average height of eight hands are spirited and sturdy little objects' which have dropped the word tired out ot their vocabulary. The city looks like toyland let loose, with its jum-bie jum-bie of delicious little vehicles, all racing as if it were a matter of life and death. There is a crying nHd for hotels Id Manila and hih prices are charged J for scant comfort and 'moderate fare. But you can dine at the Cafe Luzon I and enjoy a delicious meal served (Spanish fashion with'. a pile of plates in front of each ' per?fui , HENRIETTA 8 AND A- 'ANDKRSON. |