| Show JULES EGG BOY OF ASTOR HOUSE I Story of Remarkable Rise of Young Frenchman in New York City Developed Great Busl Business ness of ImportIng Import Import- Ing Delicacies From Europe and Retired a Millionaire Several Times Over By RICHARD In the days das when that squat gra gray pile known as the Astor house In lower ower Now York city was more famous fanous fa- fa a- a inous than It Is now there came to It from rom over the sea a tall tail eyed bright-eyed youth with a letter to the chef As Ashe the he big fat and usually natured good-natured chef read the letter he ho scowled ItI It was vas the same star story Every Everyone one In I France who knew him and some who did Id not seemed bent on recommending people to him for work worle lie He was overrun over over- I run un with applications I I can do nothing for you OU prom promise Iso nothing for you he exclaimed ex- ex Cooks Cools Assistant cooks Bah Dah We have more in America than we need We Ve shall have all there are aren In n France If It this thing keeps up Evry Ev Ev- er cry ry steamer brings a lot and such cooks Most 1 of them cannot cook the egg Kg egg I can cook an egg said the boy Poof said the chef You know not what you say To cook the egg Is Isa isa a gift Any fool can make the tho omelet hir shir or boll boil or fry the egg but to cook ook the egg exquisitely so It ray ray- the tho eye stirs the feeble appetite to o health and desire brings Joy to the stomach and makes man feel like lIlee a that god od that that Is art artI I can cook an egg the boy re- re The fat tat chef shrugged his shoulders There Thero are ways of cooking the egg gg he lie declared No man can say truly ruly he can cook the egg until he lie henos knows s no them all I can cook an egg said the boy for or the third time The calm repetition of the statement statement statement state state- ment was an all Irritation and a challenge to o the chef We Ve shall see he declared ively He took the youth to the kitchen and nd left him there for trial That is isow how ow Jules became egg boy at the Astor Epicures Appreciated Jules There used to be a democracy about the he old house that was delightful Gay boys of finance law and the trades gathered there to feast or to frolic They hey had the tastes tables of ot epicures but I sad ad to relate ordinary or much abused bused digestive apparatuses Soon after fter the arrival of Jules they discovered ered red remarkable merit in omelets shirred eggs and other things that came ame from his department When When the the palate said No to other food rood it would appear grateful in Its greeting of or one ono of f his delicacies Tell Jules It Is for me would be ba bahe bethA bethe he the request of a railroad magnate a the head of a hardware con- con cern ern The egg boy seemed to learn the he tastes and caprices of the regular patrons of the house with wonderful rapidity Maybe it was not so much In n catering to individual appetites as asIn asIn In n the daintiness and delicacy not only in the cooking but in the serving servo Ing ng of everything he pro prepared pared He would not let a thing go from his hands unless It was perfect Jules had a soul above eggs The chef discovered after a while that the youth knew as much about boiling baking aking grilling frying stewing and andall andall andall all the other ways of cooking meats fish and fowl as he did about a souffle that would appeal to the appetite in a l away away way to make mako the worst dyspeptic beleve believe be- be lIeve leve there still was jO Joy in iii living He could make a soup that was nectar and ind sauces as prepared by him put on ona ona ona a new dignity Henri the chef blessed the day the egg boy came to the Aster Astor and never could be dissuaded from the belief that hat it was duo due to his own rare Judgment judgment judgment judg judg- ment that Jules was secured by the theamous famous amous old hotel Did Not Work by Rule Jules worked by no rule Why should he Back In Alsace for hundreds hundreds hundreds hun hun- of years his forbears had bad been cooks He needed none of ot the latter- latter day aids to the lords and ladies ladles of the kl chen He scorned the tho oven ther thor He Ho knew when all was right He loved to teach others othere others but somehow the others never could get the same results as Jules He could take tako the simplest of foods and do wonders wonders won von ders with them lIe He delighted In makIng making making mak mak- ing stews plebeian though they are considered They carne came to think Inthe in inthe inthe the Astor that stewing was au an all art unknown until Jules came to them He was radical The rhe great secret in iii stewing he always declared was In cooking the meat in Its own juices I Next to achieving miracles with the stew he did marvels in the way of or braising which Is a combination of at stewing and baking One of ot the peculiarities peculiarities of Jules was that he rarely worked with a ver very hot fire He lie believed believed believed be be- that cooking at a high temperature temper temperature was not only wasteful of fuel fueI l but not good for the thc meats we ne thought it was better and m more re economical economical economical eco eco- to cook coole longer and at a lower temperature Above all things ho he was scrupulously neat Cleanliness is desirable desirable desirable de de- to a superlative degree c In the handling of the things we eat caL treasure Every very one a Jules was about the Astor appreciated that fact I day then when he sad sad It U was a I go-I I Henri that h he lie was go- go announced to I f leave leave- The ch chef f almost had a log Ing to in unthinkable that Jules should fit It was desolate The kitchen would be f go Henri would be desolated deso without him would the time long patrons pa pa- What the hotel who had come come cometo to tolean tolean of Was It and do Jules say Gay upon lean 1 content moneY Was Jules not not money and every everyone No It a kind was and good to Jules But ButI Buthis ButI I waS one oliC called him elsewhere lie I his art be the real master never 1 t never would satisfaction until I woul know keo supreme I he ho was In command of ot every branch of I his glorious profession lIe He was going to take tako a n post graduate course In the pastry line Everything else of or the kitchen he was supreme in A few years yeara would round him out as a finished fin fin- shed artist Became a Pastry Artist I Jules went to a n famous pastry cooks cook's establishment lIe Ho ent went to learn and he remained to teach tench Within a n month he was ras creating things In the pastry line that the gr great at pastry cooks perhaps per per- haps had dreamed of but never had been able to produce There were some great pastry artists In the kitchen They were wet men of or Paris Borne Berne Strasburg and Berlin No city of or the world produces greater and better better better bet bet- ter cooks than Strasburg Jules came caine from Strasburg There or-There still was another branch of the culinary cull cull- nary art for him to take the highest courses In Ill it was the shellfish Just Justas Justa a as ag a student sacrifices position and time so he sacrificed his position again and went to Glen Island to work a few tew years ears In the cooking of ot crabs oysters clams and lobsters Those were the tho golden days of the most beautiful Island of Long Island sound Each year Jules broadened In view and broadened In knowledge lIe Ho waa was ambitious He was frugal as most Frenchman are but he longed to be wealthy There Is a good living In Inthe Inthe inthe the kitchen but not riches or ease They did not pay cooks as much In those days das as they do now either When an association of French cooks was vas formed to raise the standard In Inthis Inthis Inthis this country and Incidentally to make some profit out of the Importation of the rarest and most delightful of ot French rench delicacies Jules was asked to take charge of or the agency that the association established Ho lIe Jumped at atthe atthe atthe the offer Ho lIe saw In It an opportunity to do good for his fellow cooks and at the same time get business knowledge knowl edge he lie otherwise could not obtain The prospect seemed excellent to him for the association to do great good I i I Can Cook an Egg He worked hard and faithfully much harder and just as faithfully as he had labored as a cook His One Hard Year There Is a difference between workIng working work work- workIng ing for tor one boss and fifty fitly Every mothers mother's son who was a member of that association had his own peculiar Ideas as to how Jules Juice should conduct the business and each one of them gave orders to him It did not matter how great the conflict In orders was Jules was to blame He put In the hardest year of at his life trying to please all the thc members and wound up by pleasing none Then Thea the association association association tion decided to give up the Importing business and confine Its attention to social matters Jules was almost heart broken but the trouble In Ta that hat association was the lie best thing that ever happened to him Jim He Ho determined never to work for any boss except himself He had 2000 a wife and 2nd child Against the advice of his wife and friends he risked that 2000 by buying a house in fn Thirty- Thirty fourth street near Seventh avenue The Thc 2000 was only a n small payment on the purchase price There Thereas was as a mortgage with Interest enough to swamp him hint unless he lie made muade money fast But he ho had courage He lIe took I over the tho Importing business of at the association as as- 1 and devoted all his energy and fine finc spirit to pushing It Various times limes he had to rake and scrape and borrow to meet the interest on the mortgage to pay duties on the goods gools he imported or to meet the drafts of the tho shippers Ho lived above the that store that Is the way they do In the theold theold theold old country country and and lie he scrimped and saved and tried to be cheerful Ills I friends advised him to move to toI I cheaper quarters but Jules was nate There were in Thirty Thirty- fourth street In those days das but before Jules had bad been there two years thc they were eie supplanted b by ele electric cars Simultaneously Si Thirty fourth street was transformed Property values Jumped jumpe amazingly Jules sold out his house nt at a profit of and moved to second Forty street close to Seventh avenue With the he and the profits that were beginning to come from his business he was able to buy I to greater advantage to carry a n bigger stock block and generally push p his hla trade He got the thc business of or Delmonico of at Sherry of or Martin of ev every ry big restaurant restaurant rant In New York Incidentally he began to assume a new Importance Great hotel men and great restaurant men who vho wanted to open new establishments and to obtain the best of cooks went to him for counsel lIe He went abroad occasionally to look over I the men of at Strasburg Berne Zurich and Paris When he called them tJ ti America they came camo Built a Great Warehouse One day Oscar hammerstein cams camu along and took tool a look at Jules' Jules Forty second street establishment Mr hammerstein Hammerstein Ham Hans saw more than Jules Jules' lIe He saw a theater on Its site Julei sold the building at a a. profit of to lo the tho great theater builder and operatic operatic oper oper- Impresario Then he went Into Fortieth street The neighborhood was not good but that did not mot matter lIe Ho put up a II great warehouse of at about ten stories It Is the greatest of its kind In America From the cellar to to- to the to-the the tho roof root with the exception of the offices and the tho living quarters of Jules and his family it Is filled with Jellies jemes and cheeses caviar and pate de fois fols gras cordials and remarkable pastes confections confections confections con con- such as only the tho rich can afford atford af at- ford anchovies and pickled nuts stuffed fruits and rare rare- vegetables smoked and dried meats and anti fish that cost ost enough to make a person gasp bar le Ie due duc and olive olivo oils essences and a thousand other things that many persons think are necessities but which the time world would be better If It did not use Rare flare Is the ship that tha comes across the lie sea that does no not bring something to It IL The money that has been made In that house houto Is tabu lous bus Jules has retired now Only a fe few know him as the egg boy of the Astor Today he stands as one of at the most prominent Frenchmen of New York He seems to have havo dr dropped Into the place Henry Maillard Malllard once occupied I In tho the French colony Like Malllard Maillard I ho he has been president of the Cercle I Harmonie and head o oC the I gr great at French hospital Wealth has haa poured In on him until he has become a millionaire several times over He He's Hes Hes He's Hel l s 's vice-president vice of one of the uptown banks The big dividends he gets each year from the company that now manages his business business- provides money I enough to look after atter all his charities and let him do a little business on the side in real estate He has made all his money between Thirty-fourth Thirty and second Forty streets and he has the tho most supreme confidence In that strip of New York He buys and he lie sells buys and sells He lIe never has had a loss Americas America's Debt to Juice Jules No man has done more to raise the theart theart theart art of cookery In America There scarcely has bias been a great hotel built anywhere in the United States within the last twenty y years jears ars whose proprietor tor has not consulted him about the arrangement of the kitchen or the selection selection se se- se- se lection of the tho culinary staff start With all sit his hie prosperity with all the dignity that money and position and age give to a man Jules still loves to cook He has all the tho enthusiasm and a n far wider appreciation of his art than he had when he was the egg boy of at the Astor Of nothing Is he prouder than his fame as a cook It Is his one great vanity It never will abate so long longas as he lives Once a year he gives play to this vanity Regularly on time the anniversary an an- of his hie arrival In America he be gives a dinner to his closest friends For a month before the dinner he Is bus busy planning It studying little problems problems lems In connection with It experimentIng experiment experiment- Ing ng creating striving to arrive at something that will eclipse anything New York ever has known before To this dinner he Invites a few fow of ot the bankers with whom he Is associated a fow few of at the men of t the house of ot Delmonica Delmonico Del Del- monico monica a few of the men of the house of Sherry a few of the men of the house of Martin a few rew of at the men of ho fhe house of Boldt anti and a score of cronies he he has gathered within lila hla friendly Y fold In the lie march of time from those days of ot the Ast AstOr r up to this good ond year They treasure an Invitation to that dinner as something beyond pi pm Ice They know that Jules will ransack the markets of the world and get their rarest jarest and their best for this feast and festival estl of his friends and the they know the the Joy that will vill be theirs at that glorious glorious glo glo- rious meal for tor It will be cooked by Jules Copyright 1914 by th the McClure l Newspaper per Syn Syndicate |
