Show LONG SKIRT IS IN LIMELIGHT new york mr necessity everywhere I 1 ingenuity expressed therefore here 1 ore in a thousand ways ivans turning and twisting to find out how good results cun can be obtained through uncharted channels is the erfort effort or of eccli eacia individual the mass inasa of shops unil anti tho the host of designers tills this Is the summing up writes a fashion authority of tile the entire spirit as expressed in lenti apparel it it not a n continental spirit it Is it world spirit it pervades lands where fighting la Is unknown it rules in ili home from which nu no fighters lavi have gone gano ani in which there alicie has always liis ii been a serene confidence in the ability to ar ari rive tit nt it n comfortable comfor table conclusion ion tito old easy method ethod til of dressing lins has vanished Perlin ps it in 14 gone forever it Is a temptation to dip bad into tho the past and recount lie fie episodic adventures and experiences through which women have gone when great wars warn devastated a country and used up its row raw materials it Is not only the constitution that follows fol the ling fing it Is 19 that hat follows it for years after the flag has ceased to be 11 i leibol of battle and remains his only a symbol of pit patr trot ht ism all tile alio grent great wars have deti den changed the courso course of doulen 4 clothes cl othea they may not liot have left upon them the lie lasting impressions that wars anra have left upon mens anens clothes chillies the niale portion of tho the world rarely thinks of df tills this fad fact that every gurnie garment nt lie ho wears Is almost directly responsible to soine explosion of alinn kind reverting to pioneer days it Is no i tiling thing to saunter flown down main street today drop into a shop and buy any kini kind of braid embroidery or other for gowns one finds that iuan illan articles aro becoming more indro and inore indio limited the war Indu industries f lioard linard lias bas gotte gone into tit alie situation with such thoro thoroughness ugliness that manufacturers have been to lop oft off several atema that are arc considered ai v once upon afline a time tills this world which dearly loves it phrase twisted and turned the words irreducible maill mum in ili fant listic ways to suit iilah a va briety of meanings tills this was ii a sister in ili to president clove cleve lands hindi fatt gamoua ions innocuous desuetude today alio lie expression that has superseded ceded nil all others othera Is tho the elimination of and there tire arc thousands of women who llulu you to q tit that menus both irreducible mint jand innocuous desuetude it J mii v 8 tito the sketch shows a of heavy black satin hatim with wit a barrel ban el effect obtained in the skirt through width a at tie to 0 hips and narrowness at th the 4 hera and the whole surface laid with flat tucks the tight bodice finishes nt at ali tho normal waistline with a narrow mirrow arava cravat belt there Is afonce a fence collar of white or oro gandle andle the fluted hat Is in of black satin with a crown of ermine 14 1 well for nn an extravagant continent that hat the irreducible minimum can be arrived nt at trough ough compulsion i trimmed with sits bits of the themselves ma elves tl A report of ht women have dodo dono in devising ornamentation for thisie clothes would read lead as nn an interesting bit of war history out from tia tho 0 depths have cwik boino of thin the ornamentations ornamentations tho the designers however linao found that tha best wily way to t trim im a gown la Is with itself there Is v very little danger then of its a patchwork quilt have returned therefore they haqq been launched on tho the ii naw oj aunt irin gowns ia something of a na novelty they are arc not permitted in ool m n clothes tec auske the gac us to every inch of 0 super dudus iV worst orsted cil but wo we ll 11 ur el nittIng oi it by the yardage Instead so tho the tirla ii 11 hillid ml are arc finding coursel ours elv es quite content with composition gowns that have only a dosh ansti of wool in them and often nono none at nil all A donian depend on oil furs capes and top coot for warmth As for UK the materials which are arc available today they may lust last through ill ahr winter thre Is enuch talk of 0 wearing falln tuf taffeta feta pongee find 4 0 wide tucks trim the most fastidious goong the frock la Is of heavy chinese silk with tucks from hip to hem and a row of white crochet buttons the tha full sleeves are held in with tucked heavy chi balka throughout atle cold weather making them comfortable for table lor for the open or tor for heatless hent less houses by we the addition ot of warm underwear and top coverings the designers have banked heavily on oil the lle usage of thin materials for next winter and therefore they havo have brought about this resurrected fashion of trimming a gown with itself which Is quitu easily done when tho the material Is soft and pliable when tucks are used they ire are arranged horizontally they aliey do not contuse confuse themselves with pleats which aro are vertical A few odthe new skirts are tucked from the bone ot of the hips to tilt thu client the tucks touching each other and made fo rom torn tin an inch to two inches wide sometimes this constitutes the entire til ti minIng of n gown but when the skirt Is extra narrow tit lit tho iho hem hein the barrel effect Is more striking than it has been for two years foulard first choice for fop autumn there Is ili really tin an extraordinary amount of foulard worn in the changeable able september weather it Is so corn com for tuble 1 ili the house and so easily covered in ili tho the open that it presents itself na as first aid to being well dressed there are broadly chocked checked fou foulards lards in fix blade black and white and others that havo have a lull dull blue or orange stripe or figure running through gh the checks whatever the lie choice they are made simply one does docs not go in tor lor chi neso blue pink or these days except when one wears gowns in the house that have served through the suin sumin itier fr but colors such na as black anti white purple and brown gray and deep blue tire are chosen in these foulards fou lards for the street this fabric lends itself admirably to fo relf the skirts aro tucked froin LIP to hem bell or knees to hem and when there Is a peplum or a long iong chemise tunic tt it has five or eight tucks to finish it affecting the waistline thero la is no possibility of 0 reducing our waists to a small measurement the shod shad typo type which lins has pre for eight years yeara enn can wear its sashes where tt it pleases but what about tho thousands of other women bome thin and stout who havo have allowed their waists to broaden out into sculptural measurements the those waists havo muscles that are birong and pit fib to ani an they will not be kluev ea tit in by corsets therefore only the willow typo l pc the alm allm little boneless youngster oung gstyr apin pull in her waist end aud it tie a n ans A 1 it with impunity ono thing ti I 1 call y certain if the tight draped art brings back the aalst womb will allow the tA line of himli their figures to con dinue iru and thea will merely drapo drape the aalst in its new largo large measurements without an attempt to make them 0 elves uncomfortable i copyright WS 1018 but bytha the mcclure papa SYn syndicate dICAtO |