Show RIDING THE SOUTH SEA BURP authors author description makes make one long to participate 1 I shall never forget the tha first big wave I 1 caught out thero there in the deep water I 1 saw it coming turned my back on it and paddled for dear life faster and faster aster my board went until it seemed my arms would drop off what was happening bohland me I 1 could not tell one cannot look behind and paddle the windmill stroke I 1 heard the crest of the wave biasing and churning and then vay my board wits wax lifted and flunk flung forward I 1 scarcely knew anew what happened th ahi m first halt half minute though I 1 kept my eyes open I 1 could not see anything for I 1 waa wa burled buried in the rushing white of the th crest but I 1 did not mind I 1 was wa chiefly conscious of ecstatic allas at having caught the tha wave at the end ot of the halt minute Ilo however wever I 1 began to soe see things and to breathe I 1 saw that three feet of the nose of ny my board wan clear out of water and ildene on th fhi air I 1 shifted my weight forward and made the th nose come down thon then 1 I lay quite at rest in the midst ot of the tha wild movement and watched the tha chore anti and the lathers bathers on the beach grow distinct I 1 I 1 cover quite IL a quarter of a mile on that wave because to prevent the board from adly lag ing I 1 shifted my weight back but listed it too far nad and fell down tho the rear slope of the wave jack london la in the womans comans homo home companion |