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Show { . oman's omans ' Warld WarldB B ' ( cyt SIl1art cy t W Woman Woma oma Plans Blouses Blouses\ Blouses BlousesTo \ \ To Wear , with vIllI Her Fall Suits Suitsjn . I \ By ByGlla jn Glla , C Cilla illa T aley ale a T CAN feel It In the air al already o ' Feel what ' ready readycan can t you you7 that sharpness and briskness brisknesst indicate fall and wmter are not nota not1ar a t 1ar . .t t . d & slant stant in m the future Per PerJJr Per'UT PerUT ' JJr : I 11 I ke to call it su t t weath weathJld weath/ weath weathinid / inid J/ld J ld / su ts mean many blousesEvery blouses blouses"jt Every Everysmart smart woman has at least leaste "jt jt " sull these days daysthat that she cantor can e tot tor shopp ng ngtor tor bus nessust ness ? ust " tor . - gomg _ . _ rf out rtttA . * A SUit elllt can / 1M be beJ A J , 1 1or or ta lored and justV just \V V \ whatlesson ha t tress ress on It its s go gong ng to g1\ g1 gne g1e \ e de deas defl , as < largely on the blouseBelore blouse blouseiVt Belore start ng wardrobe plans planseck eck over the blouses ) ou now nowve and cons der wearable wcdiauie Some Somethe oume iVt ve an " " " - , jie the ) castoffs castolfs might be madeble made madeye ye ble ' > th new and perky perhy cuffs cutTs or orsmart orsmart smart netkline neekhne Then } ) ou can fill filltho filli that blouses now nowale nowne tho ( ho e spots you ale do not fill Be sure to have a aDared aiHored Dared blouse a dressy one andone and andBE sort of m bet veen veenyouD veenYou one ( BE youD 11 tod find a wealth ot of n.ew new . new mate'Pals mate matenils 'Pals Pals nils in 1JI the shops provided you go goeaily ' eaily earIy Thcn Then t00 too there s another anotherce anothel'source anothelsource " ' ce which possibly hasn t t even evenoccurred evenocoirred occurred to you-the you the you - the att c e or stor stora storge a ( e closet closetUltc . Ultc Mate Blouse Collar CollarFIt Collarpi FIt ! Material Iatctlal < ; Suit SuitMuch mt . Much has been said ot of the 1m imairtance . parlance of selecting selectmg material to fit fitTOUT . Jout pattern but this no longer of ofers ofers [ ers much of a problem Your pat patern patrn ; ern ( is a * good guide to the matet mate mateal t al a1 to be used If 11 you do a lot of ofewing ofswing ewing your yo1 " ' fingers and eyes can canckly caniilckly ( ckly decide the suitability of the thebr theabrc ( br c to the patternI patternAn pattern I An Important consideration how howeler howper eler is the selccbon selectIon of the collar collarthe collarth6 ( ( the su t t has its own collar then thenshouJd thenyou should shouJd have a blouse with a anecklme ath | ( neckline necklme with no collar Or Ormay Oryou may have a collar that is isImaller Islaaller Imaller but of the same type sod so soII II d to match the SUlt suitFA . A collariess collarless suit SUlt Is just as muchc mucho much o ! ! a problem for whatever 'I I ' : J . II / / volt oU hn hat e an OR out dated gradual on on4rm oniiw oniiwthe 4rm the blouse collar it must not notclash notdash clash nith IUth the suit s lack of a col colar collar ar ! You m ght choose a lugh lughraped highdraped raped neckline necklme blouse Another AnotherIdea AnotherIdei Idea is to have a very high neck neckme neckline neckI I me ! with a dainty damty ruffle or the theclass theclass class c pointed pomted collar made in U1 two twoparts : parts such fS as is seen on many of ofe oftte e tailored v v . , omen omens s blouses , The small double collar usually usuallyound usually'oimd usuallyoimd ' ound is made by cutting cuttmg the pat patm pattm m out twice Sew around the ther theiiitcr r edges of the material , , attachr attach r ( the two pieces together then thenlip thenlip ; lip 10 so the collar can br bp turned turnedHtily 511 , . Be sure the seam thus thuseated thusIcreated eated is pressed fia fiat t before turn turnIDr turnhi IDr the collar so there will be no noging noMging ging This Thls is attached to the thelouse theMouse louse by means of a very narrow narrowkband narrowptckband narrowptckband&nill kband &nill nill & m&ll mll & Stitthes StItches lIakeNealLooking \ Make l\Iake l Iake MakeNe | Neal-Looking Neal Looking Ne - t-LookliiB t LookliiB - Blouse , Collars shaped like the necklmeUSUally neckline necklme necklineusually usually he lIe fairly flat Use the patem pat patle le em " ! tor for shaping shapmg and attachmgem attaching attachmg attachingthem them em emRuffled . Ruffled collars should be gatheredvery gathered very " 7 carefully Use a small stitch stitchto stitcho o they will gather damt daintily y and ap apdy apPly Ply them with a band using small smallIbtches smallHitches Ibtches so the e collar Is as neat as asPOSSible asPossible POSSible " theblouse Collars CoUars may be joined jomed to the the"louse thelouse blouse " " ' ftlth 'ith ith a bias strip of the same sameMake Make a a dressy dre.y drey . blo blouse e from it it'atcrlal 'atcrlal atcrlal ' terlal as the blouse or they they'y theyy theyay ay ' be joined with a neckband necJrband . . In Ine In"U.cases InU.cases InUcases " e . cases the collar needs neither neither"Me these neitherthese "Me Me " the part of the collar collarIch collar"chis collarchis " Ich is joined directly to the neck neckle necke e longerIs being made somewhat longer " Is is i then folded under and fin I IHip Hip Shirrillg I 1 > , " " ' ThIs mtrlgumg version oC a CaU CaUsmt smt by Brownie has a double doublebreasted breasted JacL.et JacLet . softly shirred at atthe the hips The sleeves widen at the theturned turned back cuff The materIal is isred red wool trImmed wIth gold but . tons lished ished stItche in place with neat small smallstItche smallstitcheo smallstitcheoMost Most people learn the ins and outs outsQf outsof Qf sewing sewmg very easily but sleeve sleeveand sleeveand and armhole fitting may rem remain am a amystery amystery mystery fo fb them I ve compIled compIledsome compiledsome some tips I consider essential for formakIng formaking makIng sleeves fit properly There s sreal sreal real help in U1 them for your partIcu partIcuar particular ar ! problem 1 Lay the sleeve on the fabr c ccarefully ccarefully carefully It If the sleeve sh shifts ts oft off the thegram thegram gram even a little the finIshed finIshedsleeve finishedsleeve sleeve will always twist and be un uncomfortable uncomfortable comfortable 2 Pre fit the sleeve pattern be before before fore cutting to make sure it is the thecorrect thecorrect correct size for your arms Cut Cutcarefully Cutcarefully carefully after you have made the thenecessary thenecessary necessary adjustment . 3 Never skimp on cutting cultmg the thearmhole thearmhole armhole and make sure fabric IS ISpmned ispinned pmned securely to the pattern so sothere sothere there will be no slipping shppmg 4 Fit the sleeve at the shouJder shouJderfirst shoulderfirst first and make sure the sleeve sleevehangs sleevehangs hangs stra ght down 5 Check sleeve darts before sew sewmg sewing mg to make sure they are m the theplace theplace place where your elbow goes goesthrough goesthrough through its actions Baste darts m mfirst infirst first fit them to your arm and andthen andthen then make the final permanent permanentstItches permanentstitches stItches 6 Make the sleeves fit the curved curvedshape curvedshape shape of the armhole Never SnIpof snip snipif of ! a piece or try to cut off a pIece pIeceIf if the sleeve looks crooked 7 If 11 you use padding paddmg place the thepads thepads pads in the shoulders before fittmg fittmgthe fittingthe the sleeves 8 Never have a blouse fit flt too tootJght tootight tJght under the arms as this wIll wIlllimIt willlimit limIt arm activity Baste first firstwave firstwave wave the arms around and mahe mahesure makesure sure that the sleeves and armhole armholeare armholeare are just right for you before the thepermanent thepermanent permanent sttches st tchcs are made |